Category Archives: dresses

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1950’S DRESSY DAY-WEAR

Let’s start with this novel style by a famous French (undoubtedly Paris) designer. The knock-off pictured above was by Nelly Don, a well-known mid-century ladieswear label in the U.S. The belted sheath dress woven of substantial cotton or a blend has a wide detachable peplum which creates this avant garde silhouette. The French designer brought this luxury style out in 1952 and the mid-priced American version followed quickly.

A very pretty semi-sheer dress with a scarf neckline is unusual in an olive green and purple print which I love. Again, it’s belted and fitted as were most of the dresses of this time and follows a shirtdress style.

This green pencil skirt is made in a relatively briefly-used but popular fabric which consists of thin, rayon(?) ribbon that is coiled in a continuous design, appliqued onto another fabric base. Imagine it worn with a pretty, fitted blouse. I have a black skirt suit made in this fabric and a family member owned a short-sleeved dress in a gold color, back in the day.

The shirtwaist dress never lost it’s place and continued into the Fifties and beyond in fabrics which ranged from cotton and cotton blends to rayon and silk. The simplest daywear styles continued to be the housewife’s daily uniform. This one is a slightly upscaled version in a more complex print with embroidered trim and tucks.

This black and white dressed-up sundress would have been appropriate to go on a date, to the Ladies’ Club, Country Club or shopping in the city. It may have been custom-made, as women and professional tailors continued to use their skills this way though not as much out of necessity as during wartime. The Fifties were about being thrifty but also stylish and having more!

Shoe styles carried over from the 1940’s but with sleeker lines. Pumps were a bit more cutaway and more often had sling-backs. Soles and heels were slimmer. Peep toes continued, which I absolutely love. Hairstyles became smaller and neater again as did hats, which continued to be de rigueur for any well-dressed woman. Also, a pair of well-made gloves in a style which complemented your outfit and a short string of pearls with almost anything from casual to dressy outfits were considered to be necessities for elegant style. Handbags adopted many styles but here are a couple of semi-dressy designs that carry over the classic “tapestry” floral design and introduce the decorative metal frames and vinyl covering which began to be more popular.

Tomorrow we’ll stay in the same Forties to Fifties time-frame but focus on casual separates and trends. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LADIES’ DRESSY AND FORMAL – WEAR FROM THE EARLY 1950’S

From cocktail party to Prom to a wedding, these dresses and separates went to many swanky events. A sparkly bling necklace and earrings were a necessity, too. Stiletto pumps became the hugely big footwear trend for women.

Jacquard “brocade”, satin, lace, metallic thread, organza and netting, cashmere, beads and sequins and even fur trimming – all popular materials in garments for nights out and special events. The prosperity of the Fifties brought on a real break-out in middle-class spending and ostentation. Showy was good but, fortunately, so was elegance so we had some of the most beautiful gowns produced during this time. Female movie stars of this decade were some of the best-dressed women ever seen. The first dress pictured, with the fur-trimmed sleeves, is a gorgeous example of the New Look style. Fun and novelty were also present in many examples of the more casual clothing but the cheap-looking garishness of the 1990’s was not the thing.

I love these clothes and it’s fun to show them. All would have fascinating stories. The elegance of design showed up in dressy daywear, too, and I’ll be showing some of that tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE WONDERFUL TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S SPRING DAY DRESSES AND ACCESSORIES

Some of my very favorite frocks. Wonderful rayon and blended synthetics. Pretty cotton. One sheer, the others opaque and drapey. Don’t you love these prints? Atomic, abstract and floral – big wartime and post-war favorites. Here, also, are some of the handbags, scarves and pumps that might have been worn with them.

Iconic styles, rationing-compliant and “modern” plastic alternatives to leather and wool. Silk and silky synthetic scarves were constant purse accessories. A few items carry over from the 1930’s – a few point toward popular styles as we go into the 1950’s. Since we’ve had such a long, cold winter, tomorrow I will show a few of the coats and outdoor accessories which might have accompanied 1940’s dresses outside the home. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1970’S – 1990’S DOES 1940’S. TRUE VINTAGE RETRO DRESSES AND JUMPSUITS.

The Seventies, Eighties and Nineties produced a lot of popular retail styles that imitated 1940’s designs. Some were very well done and others not so much, to be charitable. As I’ve said, it’s hard for me to call these decades true vintage but, technically, they are. The two purses echoing shapes and tapestry design popular in the Forties might have shown up in the 1960’s.

All of these could be fun and the reproduction details became best during the mid-1980’s but, unfortunately, modern polyester fabrics and production techniques lowered the quality a lot. No valid comparison, in my opinion, to true vintage from the 1940’s – even the home-sewn versions that were made from older clothing during rationing.

Of this group, the best-made is the black velveteen custom-tailored frock from the 1980’s or 1990’s. It was made by an expert seamstress and is worthy of being called a reproduction in the Post-war New Look style. The retail day-dresses are versatile and the prints are great – pretty faithful to authentic ones that I’ve come across. I always love the padded shoulders and cinched waistlines that are very flattering but were also a nod to the style of military uniforms. Jumpsuits were just for fun in the Seventies, but always are inconvenient. I suspect that the jumpsuits worn by women working in the war effort during the Forties had drop seats, which makes it a little bit better. I do have a pair of high-waisted slacks from the ’40’s that have an ingeniously-designed drop seat that looks quite good.

So, these clues were fun to find and seemed worthy of collection though I always prefer the real deal. Speaking of which, I just came across another archived file of true vintage 1940’s dresses which I will show tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSY DRESSES FROM AFTER THE WAR YEARS

Here’s another group of finds that were fabulous. Let’s look at the details on these frocks, which were over-the-top when wartime rationing was no more and fashion was ready for a break-out right before the New Look. Lots of glitz – rhinestone buttons, metallic thread, sequins, beads, lots of little buttons and velvet. Hemlines went down again. Rayon reigned – it had become the darling of fabrics.

There was certainly an element of weirdness to some of these designs. The last two black dresses were discovered in Montevideo, Uruguay and had been made by specialty dressmakers. Many of their wardrobe items in that city came from France, and I suspect that there is a lot of European influence in these styles.

The top two designs are squarely U.S. American and the tag on the dress with the big velvet bow indicates that it was made by a company that was producing affordable garments, probably during the early recovery from wartime. The navy blue dress was higher-end and looks so much like the costumes seen in late 1940’s film noir.

Tomorrow we’ll look at some examples of how 1940’s dress styles have persisted during the following decades. Stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S CASUAL DRESSES

We’ll begin with a pretty, white cotton eyelet dress that was home-sewn in 1940. It’s a lovely dress for town or a picnic, but it was made to be a wedding dress. Coming off the Depression years and with war in Europe, it was a very modest but hopeful costume for entering a dream future.

After 1941 and the United States joined World War 2, fashion became much simpler and plainer, but very practical. Shirtwaist housedresses and day dresses were the general uniform for women who didn’t wear specific uniforms related to their work. Dancing, as well as movie-going, were common inexpensive activities that helped people escape the worries and fears of their daily lives. Separates became more popular. Knitwear and wider gored skirts allowed movement while jitterbug was the favorite dance of those young enough to do it.

Plastic “gems” appeared in costume jewelry pieces, as well as preserved natural leaves. Even during the Depression and Wartime, a little bling always lifted spirits and enhanced any outfit. Tomorrow I’ll cover a 1940’s casual fad that made fashion more interesting during that time. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S BETTER DAY-DRESSES AND ACCESSORIES

I had planned to show more dresses this morning, but my computer suddenly won’t upload more pictures. So, we’ll stick with these beautiful frocks today. The one above is from the Post-war period, I would guess, though some longer hems were also present before WWII started.

A lovely nylon slip like the one above might have been worn with it.

The mid-blue dress is made from a stiffer fabric and is from earlier in the decade. Cute and more girlish, but both are special – dressier daywear.

Mid-century costume jewelry pins and brooches like the ones in this picture, especially those on the left side, might have been worn with dresses like this and a dark navy handbag like the one above is a nicer 1940’s style with a fabric body and strap.

This final black frock is probably meant for cocktails, dinner or evening, though very tailored. It comes from the early Forties or perhaps the Thirties, with it’s Deco-style decoration with metal studs.

So, this is a little wardrobe trip from the pre-war and, possibly, the post-war 1940’s. Some of the costume pins also span the decades from late Thirties to early Fifties. Tomorrow I’m sticking with the same era, but focusing on more casual styles. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LATE 1930’S DAY AND DRESSIER FROCK and ACCESSORIES

Too many photos to do both decades together! I’ll spread them out over 2 or 3 days instead. Here are a couple of pretty 1930’s frocks and their accompaniments. First, one that our Depression Era gal might have worn to town. Perfect for shopping and a movie. It’s a lovely crocheted lace over-dress with a matching acetate satin slip underneath. Look at the celluloid belt buckle, also died to match.

The second dress is a rayon sheath with an over-blouse look and Art Deco beaded decoration. She might have worn it to cocktails, dinner and dancing later. Probably, the hemline would have been midi-length on her figure. An acetate slip underneath would have enhanced the fit and it has such unusual decoration on the bodice.

No matter where she was going, she might have carried a chatelaine rouge and powder compact and an antique needlepoint handbag. The clutch above also has a celluloid closure on the metal frame. The pot metal charm bracelet for daytime has European coins and Depression Era male figures dangling – a soldier, a laborer and a tycoon.

Pretty but practical shoes made for walking and dancing – and, of course, she can’t go anywhere without her 1930’s Zippo lighter. She’ll want to visit the smoking lounge during the movie matinee’.

Late Thirties – Forties tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SPECIAL WARTIME AND POST-WAR STYLES FROM THE 1940’S

Classic designs made subtle changes over the decade which reflect the evolution of style and the social and historical events taking place at that time. Party dresses for special occasions have always been a “thing”. Skirt suits from Utility-style in the mid-’40’s to embellished designs were more like couture garments in the Post-war years. A matching hat was always essential.

High-school Prom tradition is about 100 years old now. The popularity of skirt suits for women began about the same time. Since about 2000, traditional styles in both these categories have shifted in major ways, so the focus on these types of garments in my investigations has gone from around 1920 through the 1990’s, with the spotlight on 1930’s – 1980’s. The Forties through the Sixties have been my favorite decades for classic structured suits, as they were more like two-piece dresses before and after and very trendy in design. Good luck finding a true vintage suit or Prom dress from the 1920’s or even the ’30’s but after 1940 the clues are still out there.

Although there were some very nice styles from the 1920’s and 1930’s, the prettiest suits and formal dresses, in my opinion, came from the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. Lots of attention to detail, flattering fit and high quality. In decades after that, frocks were not as interesting and suits were generally more boring, too. Tomorrow I’m going back to late 1930’s – 1940’s for dresses with one or two ’80’s WWII retro styles thrown in. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM