Category Archives: short-sleeved

ANOTHER 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S FUR-TRIMMED SEMI-FORMAL DRESS

Not a cocktail style, though it belongs in the line-up. This is such a distinctive tailoring style – I’ve got at least 6 garments dating from the 1930’s to Fifties or early Sixties with fur-trimmed sleeves. In the early ’60’s and into the ’70’s the trim also showed up on hems. The same type of glossy jacquard fabric is used here as in the dress shown yesterday, but I suspect that this special-occasion frock was made for a girl or young woman. Maybe for a party, maybe for an “event”. Might even have been home-sewn. Fabric shops used to carry trims of all kinds. This looks like rabbit fur.

My feeling is that this style was really a fad, although it kept cropping up. Popular, in it’s way, but only for a smaller segment of the market. Not the same as fur collars on coats, which has been a standard for many centuries. I suppose that fur has been a trademark of luxury and wealth throughout history. If a designer wanted to create an upscale look, fur trim might be chosen. Thank goodness, now we can have the authentic look without the cruelty.

Tomorrow another garment of this design, in a really impractical example. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – A PERFECT 1980’S DOES 1940’S DAY DRESS

Great “true vintage retro” find! It’s just a perfect go-to-town classic shirtwaist dress for 3 seasons. Elegant in its simplicity. Liz Roberts for Liz Petites was a better mid-priced brand in the Eighties. The dress is well-made and styled. The polyester fabric is a good imitation of the synthetics used in the Forties. I love the knife pleats in the midi skirt.and, of course, modest shoulder pads that are retro-correct but also make the silhouette better on many of us. The print is almost atomic, too, with irregular black shards instead of polka dots. The original belt is missing but, depending on height (I still have to decide), there’s probably excess in the hem that could cover a matching one. You can see that there is an older-style hem allowance – sweet!

So that’s it for my most recent investigation. Tomorrow we’ll return to the mid-century cocktail dress run-down. Stay tuned . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A PROPER BLACK TEA OR COCKTAIL DRESS FROM THE POST-WWII ERA

Frilled up a little by the lace inset at the neckline and lace trimming at the hem, this dress would have been accepted at any semi-formal gathering, cocktails or not. Although it’s a little bit “secretary, librarian, school teacher” in it’s modesty, the cap sleeves, peek-a-boo neckline and nipped waistline are a bit flirty. The ever-present black crepe fabric gives it the figure-skimming drape. Elegant, even though it wasn’t the most expensive frock.

Back when dresses were always the expected attire for any gathering that was professional or vaguely formal, this dress was an easy, comfortable design to meet the need. Styles were loosening up a little, though structure was still important and tailoring very elevated. In the 1950’s things changed hugely in Western society and, of course, in fashion. I’ll be investigating during the next few days but we’ll continue the cocktail fashion timeline next week. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’S WARTIME – EARLY POST-WAR ERA DRESSY FROCK

This pretty dress is made of rayon material with a BIG velvet bow and inverted front pleat for added interest. I love the scalloped overlay and the shaping on the cuffs of the short sleeves, which is SO Forties! This dress is labeled as having been made by a company or maker that was nationalized during the years surrounding and following WW2 when many, if not most, fabrics and notions available to garment-makers before the war and the Depression were unavailable to manufacturers and home-tailors because of rationing. Women still wanted pretty fashions and our government helped to make that possible and affordable.

Despite having no lining or buttons, there are very nice tailoring details. It is, unusually for that time, quite a large size but is so well-cut that belting it on my size 6 mannequin (thank you, Madge!) still looks amazing. That is an advantage of any well-made garment and especially in the case of most true vintage clothing. Stay tuned for more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1950’S DRESSY DAY-WEAR

Let’s start with this novel style by a famous French (undoubtedly Paris) designer. The knock-off pictured above was by Nelly Don, a well-known mid-century ladieswear label in the U.S. The belted sheath dress woven of substantial cotton or a blend has a wide detachable peplum which creates this avant garde silhouette. The French designer brought this luxury style out in 1952 and the mid-priced American version followed quickly.

A very pretty semi-sheer dress with a scarf neckline is unusual in an olive green and purple print which I love. Again, it’s belted and fitted as were most of the dresses of this time and follows a shirtdress style.

This green pencil skirt is made in a relatively briefly-used but popular fabric which consists of thin, rayon(?) ribbon that is coiled in a continuous design, appliqued onto another fabric base. Imagine it worn with a pretty, fitted blouse. I have a black skirt suit made in this fabric and a family member owned a short-sleeved dress in a gold color, back in the day.

The shirtwaist dress never lost it’s place and continued into the Fifties and beyond in fabrics which ranged from cotton and cotton blends to rayon and silk. The simplest daywear styles continued to be the housewife’s daily uniform. This one is a slightly upscaled version in a more complex print with embroidered trim and tucks.

This black and white dressed-up sundress would have been appropriate to go on a date, to the Ladies’ Club, Country Club or shopping in the city. It may have been custom-made, as women and professional tailors continued to use their skills this way though not as much out of necessity as during wartime. The Fifties were about being thrifty but also stylish and having more!

Shoe styles carried over from the 1940’s but with sleeker lines. Pumps were a bit more cutaway and more often had sling-backs. Soles and heels were slimmer. Peep toes continued, which I absolutely love. Hairstyles became smaller and neater again as did hats, which continued to be de rigueur for any well-dressed woman. Also, a pair of well-made gloves in a style which complemented your outfit and a short string of pearls with almost anything from casual to dressy outfits were considered to be necessities for elegant style. Handbags adopted many styles but here are a couple of semi-dressy designs that carry over the classic “tapestry” floral design and introduce the decorative metal frames and vinyl covering which began to be more popular.

Tomorrow we’ll stay in the same Forties to Fifties time-frame but focus on casual separates and trends. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE WONDERFUL TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S SPRING DAY DRESSES AND ACCESSORIES

Some of my very favorite frocks. Wonderful rayon and blended synthetics. Pretty cotton. One sheer, the others opaque and drapey. Don’t you love these prints? Atomic, abstract and floral – big wartime and post-war favorites. Here, also, are some of the handbags, scarves and pumps that might have been worn with them.

Iconic styles, rationing-compliant and “modern” plastic alternatives to leather and wool. Silk and silky synthetic scarves were constant purse accessories. A few items carry over from the 1930’s – a few point toward popular styles as we go into the 1950’s. Since we’ve had such a long, cold winter, tomorrow I will show a few of the coats and outdoor accessories which might have accompanied 1940’s dresses outside the home. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S BETTER DAY-DRESSES AND ACCESSORIES

I had planned to show more dresses this morning, but my computer suddenly won’t upload more pictures. So, we’ll stick with these beautiful frocks today. The one above is from the Post-war period, I would guess, though some longer hems were also present before WWII started.

A lovely nylon slip like the one above might have been worn with it.

The mid-blue dress is made from a stiffer fabric and is from earlier in the decade. Cute and more girlish, but both are special – dressier daywear.

Mid-century costume jewelry pins and brooches like the ones in this picture, especially those on the left side, might have been worn with dresses like this and a dark navy handbag like the one above is a nicer 1940’s style with a fabric body and strap.

This final black frock is probably meant for cocktails, dinner or evening, though very tailored. It comes from the early Forties or perhaps the Thirties, with it’s Deco-style decoration with metal studs.

So, this is a little wardrobe trip from the pre-war and, possibly, the post-war 1940’s. Some of the costume pins also span the decades from late Thirties to early Fifties. Tomorrow I’m sticking with the same era, but focusing on more casual styles. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DAY DRESSES (& ACCESSORIES)

Made from cotton, poly and rayon – these dresses from the pre- and post-war years of the 1940’s tell a fashion history of what was happening during the decade. In the late 1930’s and first 2 years of the 1940’s the war was still fomenting in Europe and Americans didn’t feel especially impacted by this. We had not joined the fight yet and everything at home was ticking along as usual, with fun movie entertainment, jitterbug dancing and jazz. Casual cotton dresses were available, as well as comfy cotton slips. A Western-wear travel fad breezed through the fashion world and sunglasses became more and more common accessories. Cat-eye glasses were called Harlequin glasses then but a round or square lens with heavy plastic frames was the most common until the 1950’s. (Of course, the glasses case in the second picture is retro 1960’s.)

While the reality of war was settling in, synthetic poly fabrics and some rayon took the place of cotton, silk and wool. During rationing, shirtwaist dresses were still the classic standard but hemlines inched up, sleeves got shorter, details and pretty decoration decreased and styles changed, with more sheath dresses being seen. Some of these things changed back after the war but fashion always moves forward. More 1940’s fashion tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

EARLY 1960’S DAY DRESSES

The very early 1960’s, Kennedy era was a time for ladies’ dresses to begin a shift in style. We started off with wasp waists, shirtwaist dresses and full skirts . Cotton and cotton blend shirtwaist dresses were still the day dress uniform for most middle-income women. But, also popular at that time for slightly dressier styles was a slinky knit fabric that was probably a poly/acetate blend. I remember older relatives wearing some of these, which they had probably owned for years. Many of the slinky knit dresses had rhinestone buttons. Great-grandma styles. The first 4 photos above are examples of these two types.

After that, sheath styles and fun details like this floral embroidery above started to make an appearance. This pink dress may have been home-tailored. The crafty, homemade trend that had taken root during WWII was still very strong, even though families had more prosperity in the 1950’s.

My internet connection or the blog host software has limited the number of photos I can add to my posts, so I am focusing on narrower topics and timelines now. Part of the issue for me is that I have so many photos in my archives that I just can’t squeeze them all in. Possibly better for you, my readers and followers, to see these wonderful garments in more detail. I will be continuing with dresses from the 1960’s because there were so many changes during that decade and it can take several posts to cover them all. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S DRESSES FOR EVERYDAY

Wasp waists, circle skirts and cap sleeves – 3 style features which are predominant on 1950’s frocks, though many other elements of design appear. The tiny waistline is probably the most frequently seen feature of a Fifties dress. As popular as the synthetic fabrics had become, 100% cotton material was queen of everyday dresses and especially for plaids and stripes which could be woven right into the cloth. Prints were still very evident, such as the blue and aqua shirtdress above, with a cute Paris, France motif (special to me because it belonged to a family member). A variation of the open-toe, low-heel sandal shown yesterday would have gone very well with these dresses, too. Colorful dresses called for fun and affordable costume jewelry, which abounded in the ’50’s. Made from pot metal, glass and plastic, every gal could afford a little bling with every outfit. Natural materials were sometimes used, too. Our mid-century gal who returned from Hawaii a few days ago, might have brought home a pair of souvenir earrings made from seeds and shells.

Decorative detailing was still a big deal, whether the dress was a day dress or something more special. Ric rac and embroidery were everywhere. The intricate cut-out design and lacing on the neckline above, though probably done by machine, is a very pretty touch on a flirty frock. Fabric-covered belts were the most common way of cinching a waistline.

Sticking with casual dresses, we’ll head into the early 1960’s tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM