TRUE VINTAGE ’50’S – EARLY ’60’S COCKTAIL BLOUSE FROM DOWN UNDER

What a wonderful, unique and chic mid-century piece! Discovered during an investigation in Australia, this pretty top made in Britain (or by a British company) is made from semi-sheer fabric that has a woven-in contrasting pattern. It buttons up the back and has the distinctive feature of 3/4 length sleeves with fur cuffs. Great fit and gorgeous over a black skirt or dressy pants. Casual, but elegant.

Women’s semi-formal clothes were especially fabulous between the 1920’s and 1960’s. Although many dresses, skirts and blouses had lovely decoration in the years before, styles were too buttoned-up for my taste. After the 1960’s quality, creativity and elegance really seemed to take a dive. Give me styles from the Prohibition speakeasys, film noir and revolutionary Sixties any day. The Seventies had too much polyester, the Eighties had some great Forties retro and avante guarde New Wave but were overall too gaudy and the Nineties had an overabundance of black. Of course, great pieces were made during all these decades but seemed to be the exception. Just my opinion – you decide.

Thank goodness that modern faux fur and animal skin alternatives have become almost indistinguishable from real ones which, in my opinion, are an abomination. This also includes silk, tortoise shell, horn, coral, pearls and ivory. True vintage pieces made from these materials decades ago are an important part of fashion history and can be fun to collect and wear but I ask my viewers NEVER to support the market for these products by buying modern items made from them. This is how we can block the profit from breeding and slaughtering these wonderful creatures and stop it. If you are looking for clothing and accessories made from any of these, check at a secondhand thrift or antique store. Thank you and stay tuned for that 1940’s series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ELEGANT MOD TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S LBD

From the early to mid-1960’s, a sleek, sleeveless classic sheath style cocktail dress with a boat neckline, which I love. It’s knee to bottom-of-knee length, which is a very flattering hemline on most women and was common at that time right before almost everything had an above-the-knee or mini length. It’s so hard to get good detail on black clothing in photos, but this one is easier because the only decoration is a medium-width band of black beading at the waistline. Very well-tailored in a light-medium weight knit fabric with a very nice drape. This one factor takes it over the line from a Summer dress to one for Fall. Good quality, good fit – the signature features of well-made true vintage clothing.

I have more examples in the files of 1960’s LBDs but, in my images file, I ran across a large number of dresses of this type from the 1940’s. I’ll probably break the timeline to put these in the next posts before resuming to LBD’s from the more recent decades. I am traveling back to Headquarters as of tomorrow, so there may be a few days pause while I reorganize. Won’t be long so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S DRESSY FROCK – ANOTHER FINELY HAND -TAILORED GARMENT FROM BRITISH HONG KONG

This dress is such a treat! I was so thrilled to uncover it. Look at the marvelous tailoring details and ingenious construction – A basic sheath style, with a heavily-decorated blouson top that appears to be separate, but is attached at the shoulders and fully-lined with a white silk under-blouse. Both layers close with a metal zipper. Hooks and eyes secure the neckline for good fit. The shoulders have strap-holders sewn in. The acetate skirt is also lined with black rayon and has a wide hem allowance plus a walking vent in the rear seam. Hand-finished all over.

In the ’50’s and 1960’s a woman of moderate means could save for the occasional purchase of clothing made this way and more prosperous women had closets full of nothing else. These were the standards of better-made garments during the mid-century. Now even very expensive clothing is sometimes constructed poorly and hardly ever as well as this dress is. The attention to detail and hand-done stitching made clothing fit better look more polished.

Tomorrow I’ll show you another frock from this decade. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1950’S – EARLY 1960’S BEADED TOPS GO ELEGANT TO DRESS-UP

Here are two examples of the most iconic cocktail fashions of this era, which could be dressed down for a home-based cocktail party or dressed up with a well-styled skirt for a more formal type of party or event. The best were made in British Hong Kong – sweaters were made of fine lambswool or cashmere and shell blouses of rayon or silk. They would always be lined and have tiny sewn-in labels showing the bust measurement. Finer pieces had cloth labels from fine tailoring shops. These two are beautiful, but not the nicest I have discovered.

Although many tops similar to this were made in the ’80’s and ’90’s when retro “vintage” fashions became really hot, I never saw any as well-made as these are. There was a great variety of designs and types of beads; sequins, seed beads, jewels and, ribbon were all used. Like these, most were monochromatic but there were some with contrasting designs. Usually, the design was also on the back side and required some care when worn but that was not considered to be a hardship for women in the 1900’s.

Tomorrow I’ll start showing some dresses. This is a category of true vintage fashion that is a very big one! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

START OF A SERIES: TRUE VINTAGE PIECES FOR COOL, DRESSY EVENINGS

We’re now heading into the season for indoor parties, special occasions and events after the long, lovely summer; Cocktail parties, dinners, dances, recitals, holiday galas – you name it. I’ll be starting a series of posts of pretty, dressy and semi-formal garments in my collection from the 1950’s – 1990’s which will take us into the Fall and even Winter. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FALL IS COMING! IT’S TIME TO PULL OUT MY ICONIC 1960’S SUEDE LEATHER CAR COAT

So many mid-century gals had a similar coat when John F. Kennedy was president. This one is a well-made daily-wear style that goes with almost anything. It has a rayon satin lining that doesn’t make it too warm in mild weather, but I have seen and own examples with pile liners which usually zip out. Quality mid-century clothing was ingenious, stylish and practical.

Although 3/4 sleeves might seem awkward on a coat, they were a BIG fashion feature at that time and look SO GREAT with gloves that are longer. It’s always worth collecting true vintage gloves that are almost elbow-length; not the kind that are worn with evening dresses, but beautiful, tailored gloves of vintage kidskin. Knitted or cloth gloves would also work with this jacket in a casual mood because it’s so versatile. I love it here with my 1980’s Western-style suede skirt.

Huge plastic buttons were also a common feature on coats from the years before and after 1960 and would often give major giveaways about the garment. In general, the quality of the buttons reflected the overall quality of the coat. Detailed, sculpted buttons were very interesting and showed that a coat was not a bargain item. Sometimes they even had inlaid pieces of different colors or faux gems like “pearls” or rhinestones. A dressy coat might have buttons like that even though the coat style was very tailored. In this case, you see tailored elegance on a mid-priced garment that would last for many years.

I love Fall and, since the weather is changing, I’ll have to trot out a lot of clothing that has been in storage – maybe even open some of the archives . .. . …. . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LAST CHANCE TO WEAR MY 1960’S KENNEDY ERA SUMMER PUMPS!

It’s almost Labor Day, OMG!! According to the North American dress codes of the 1960’s, wearing white or shoes with cutouts like these pale beige ones after Labor Day would have been a traditional fashion faux pas (in other words, big “no, no”); an embarrassing mistake that spoke to your lack of fashion sense.

With great respect to individual and cultural standards of proper dress and modesty, thank goodness those rules no longer apply in general! Unlike our grandmothers and maybe our mothers, we can wear white and pastels whenever we want to!! We can also wear black to a wedding, white or bright colors to a funeral, slacks anywhere, sleeveless blouses anytime, shorts and sandals year-round, weather permitting. Good taste and elegance are, of course, another matter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

In 1960’s shoes like these, our grannies wouldn’t face the Fashion Police in any way. They’re exceptionally well-made (how could they have lasted so long if not?), color is pretty universal and not offensive, style is modest and mainstream and they’re comfortable for walking. Not my favorite style, but worth collecting.

That said, I much prefer the 1980’s Italian-made sandals discovery that I just posted a few days ago – interesting design, great quality, elegant and versatile style and much more flattering. But, hey, we don’t have any lock on that in the more recent decades. Fabulous avante garde and va-va-voom styles have been produced at least for the past 100 years. I should review the archives ……

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND: MID-CENTURY MEN’S(?) LEATHER KEY CASE ACCESSORY

Practically “new”; just a little corrosion on the metal parts. I couldn’t pass this up since it is an iconic true vintage personal item. This fine accessory is an example of a key case style that had been made for decades and decades, mostly before the 1970’s. Always in leather, and with a simple fold-over design and with these little metal hooks that can hold old-style car keys, house keys, post office box key, storage box key, office key, etc,, etc. I’ve seen many of them, and they’re always a good clue – especially if the keys are still present. . . . . . . . . . . . .

The design is meant to lie flat when the keys are tucked inside, so best for a pocket only. That’s why I have always guessed that it’s mostly a men’s accessory. When other types of more modern and prettier key-rings were not available, though, one of these could tuck securely into a lady’s handbag and they do allow the owner to carry all their important keys in one tidy place. Many of them, like this one, contained a card on which the owner could write their name and address in case the keys were lost. Often, people ignored these and they were still left tucked inside.

It’s another example of the elegant and high-quality items that our ancestors owned and used almost every day. I just never know what might turn up. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MY VERY LATEST FIND: A PAIR OF ICONIC KENNEDY-ERA GLOVES. TOO SPECIAL TO PASS UP . . . . . . .

Who doesn’t have mid-century white wrist-length gloves passed down by the older women in their families? I’ve got a collection, both of “heritage” gloves and those that I’ve discovered during past investigations. Cotton, leather, suede, synthetic – I’ve kept only the best of the best. Like handkerchiefs and little hats, these gloves were ubiquitous – every woman had them because in the late 1950’s through the early 1960’s they were mandatory when you left the house. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy made them a true fashion statement that no well-dressed woman would be seen without.

So, a ton of them have been out in the vintage marketplace even though they’re not a wardrobe staple anymore. But, wait . . . . . . . . gloves, in general, are definitely a wardrobe staple and these are PERFECT! What do you wear with a white jacket or coat on a cool day? How do you save your white leather gloves from getting dirty? Beautifully hand-tailored gloves like these are a great alternative. Even if you’re not wearing an early ’60’s dress, these are classic enough to wear with anything, including slacks.

Other factors which made these a catch, besides their beauty, and caused me to pick them up: 1. The synthetic fabric – probably nylon or a nylon blend – has stretch which makes them super comfortable and flexible as well as giving a good fit. 2. This type of fabric washes well, similar to nylon lingerie slips. You can even wash them in hot water if you need to and as long as the decoration will tolerate it (but those buttons can easily be detached for laundering and re-sewn on). 3. This is maybe the BIGGEST PLUS – like nylon slips, in my experience, they take dye very well and can be dyed to match anything you’d like!!!

That’s my very latest find and I was thrilled to discover them. You just never know! Now, I only have to decide on the color . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE UNUSUAL MID-CENTURY MEN’S LEATHER BILLFOLD

Here’s my next deja’ vu find – similar but completely different from the wallet found and posted two weeks ago. This well-made billfold is very unique, also with tooled details but very different from the other’s style. The decoration almost makes you think that it could have been designed for women, but I’m going to stick with the conclusion that it was made for men because it is so slim. Women’s true vintage billfolds generally are much thicker and were meant to be carried inside a purse rather than in a pocket. However, I’ll happily use it! Another similarity to the wallet shown two weeks ago is the unusual coin-purse inside. What a surprise to find this feature again! One of the most frustrating things about men’s wallets is no good place to put coins and other small items. What could be more practical for a man or a woman? No more holes in pants pockets from digging for the loose coins at the bottom!

It’s made by another iconic brand – Toolcraft, made in Canada. As I always say, I can’t send enough love for the quality of goods made before about 1970. Also, lots of love to the women, and men, who valued quality over quantity and took care with their possessions so that they would truly last for decades as opposed to the culture we have today which just produces mountains of trash.

OK, enough of that because a true vintage investigator is free from it! And, this is not the last of my latest discoveries – stay tuned for the next transmission .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM