Category Archives: cocktails

TRUE VINTAGE MID-1960’s BLACK JACQUARD ASIAN-STYLE LBD

Since the Post-war 1950’s, interest in Asian-style dresses (and other garments) has grown, with pretty sheaths like this one creeping into women’s closets. Clothing made in British Hong Kong established a reputation for being exceptionally well-made. Tailors from China, principally, expanded their clientele and any city’s Chinatown was a great place to shop. Silk and hand-decorated versions are always the most beautiful, but all these clothes tend to be well-made, often with hand-done finishing. Because of their persistent fashionable presence, excellent quality and traditional design they can be categorized as Classic clothing. Though they are mass-produced now, versions from the 1960’s were still of high quality.

This little dress was made to sell, simply-designed with a center back metal zipper, moderately priced and styled to the then-current fad for mandarin collars and mini-skirt hems. It’s free of embroidered design, but the jacquard fabric is glossy and woven with an Asian medallion motif. Just right for making an entrance to a casual mid-Sixties cocktail party.

I’m wrapping up the cocktail LBDs for the 1960’s decade with this cutie. Tomorrow I’ll begin showing some dressy coats that would be just right with most of them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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MOD 1960’S COCKTAIL SHEATH DRESS BY CAROL CRAIG

Here we’ve got a black crepe sheath, gently fitted with a band of op-art bling at the hemline. Notice that the hemline has become shorter than in the previous examples. Although it’s obviously a cocktail party style, there’s nothing dressy here excepting the band of sequins. Classic and simple – could cautiously be described as elegant on that account – but seems pretty “ho-hum” to me though we have to remember that in 1964 or so this would have been seen as fashion-forward in a mid-priced dress.

Carol Craig was a mid-century division of the Loma Dress company and designed moderately-priced frocks in Misses sizes during the 1950’s and 1960’s. In my experience, they’re not “cream-of-the-crop” but very nice and stylish for the time; worth collecting. I’ll see about showing my “new” 1960’s finds from yesterday before getting back onto the LBD and cocktail circuit. Stay tuned . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY’

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TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S LBD FROM SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

Definitely a conservative, go-almost-anywhere style but with an upper-mid-level pedigree as it has a Saks Fifth Avenue label (take my word for it). The hemline still hovers below the knee, but we see a stand collar, which is becoming more popular on ’60’s dresses and tops. The sequin trim on the collar and skirt defines it as a semi-formal cocktail design. Though you wouldn’t be likely to turn many heads on your entrance to the party, that’s exactly the impression that many upper class women have wanted to make, especially in the Mid-West (and this dress likely came from Saks in Chicago).

Excellent tailoring, as would be expected, and perfectly classic in design. The aristocratic heritage is what makes this evidence collectible. Moving ahead into the mid-’60’s we’ll lighten up a little. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S UP-SCALE LBD – SO PRETTY!

“Daring” spaghetti straps, the ubiquitous ’50’s/’60’s grosgrain ribbon bow and a tiered skirt that harks back to the 1940’s plus a solidly early Sixties below-the-knee hemline. Youthful, attractive, classic and conservative at the same time. Looks like this designer was being experimental while styles were shifting. I’d say it was a success!

This is a very well-tailored semi-formal dinner/dance/cocktail frock, probably sold at a department store which carried upscale goods or a smaller women’s boutique. Crepe fabric which drapes beautifully, a well-fitting cut, elegant simplicity with the surprisingly unexpected skirt. A very “modern” design. A first step toward Mod, which wasn’t as avant garde or counter-culture as the styles which followed in the mid to late 1960’s. We’ll keep stepping along the path tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BACK TO PERFECTION – TRUE VINTAGE KENNEDY ERA SILK SHEATH LBD

Gorgeous 100% silk cocktail frock. Discovered in Canada, by a Canadian designer. Look at the ruching and draping from the waistline in this very unique sheath style. The cap sleeves and below-the-knee hemline plus the fitted shape place this beauty’s vintage from the late 1950’s to the very early 1960’s. Never will see another one like it.

Tomorrow we’ll be squarely in the 1960’s with a variety of cocktail dresses on the way as a new design era unfolds. Stay tuned. . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S KENNEDY ERA COCTAIL PARTY DRESS

Interesting tailoring on this dress. Much more fussy than a true LBD. The lace overlay fabric was commonly used in the early 1960’s but the pouchy drapes attached to the hips almost look like something from the late 1940’s and the pleated bodice looks like many from the early 1950’s. All of this confusion makes a straight-cut sheath style look entirely different and made this frock completely unique.

It seems to me that changes from one decade to the next and significant historical events have often caused interesting and, sometimes, odd shifts in fashion. The early ’60’s also swung back to the New Look nipped waistlines and poufy skirts for a little while. More 1960’s designs on the way – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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SPARKLEY 1950’S EARLY 1960’S PARTY DRESS

Nobody who matters will take issue with the fact that this dress is not black. The mauve lurex thread on a black background is gorgeous. Enjoy your martini and party on.

Jacquard fabric with a glossy finish was very popular at this time for special occasion frocks. Nipped waists and full-ish skirts carried on, though the slinky sheath never goes out of style. Demure and more daring aspects of design often appear on the same dress, as seen in the neckline and closely fitted torso here, paired with a skirt that hides the shape of the legs. Fashion that sends two messages, especially for women, always makes social life more complicated but has usually been the direction of women’s clothing style. Maybe we’re starting to get away from that now?

At any rate, hemlines are changing again and the midi will soon be OUT. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A BEAUTIFUL POST-WAR EARLY 1950’S MIDI DRESS FOR FORMAL COCKTAILS

New Look style without the crinoline. Nipped waist and full skirt. Instead of in the front, as was possible in the 1940’s, there’s a V-shaped seam at the back waist. In this case, we also see the increasingly-popular fur-trimmed sleeves. The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard with a glossy brocade look. Again, simple elegance though the fur trim does put it alittle over the top, to my eye.

There’s no label, so this gown could have been custom-tailored but it’s quite possible that the owner removed the tag, as so often happened. It’s a lovely semi-formal dress with a neckline which could show off a statement necklace. Doesn’t need that in any way as far as I’m concerned, but you know how some women are. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tomorrow I’ll continue with this 1950’s trend. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A PROPER BLACK TEA OR COCKTAIL DRESS FROM THE POST-WWII ERA

Frilled up a little by the lace inset at the neckline and lace trimming at the hem, this dress would have been accepted at any semi-formal gathering, cocktails or not. Although it’s a little bit “secretary, librarian, school teacher” in it’s modesty, the cap sleeves, peek-a-boo neckline and nipped waistline are a bit flirty. The ever-present black crepe fabric gives it the figure-skimming drape. Elegant, even though it wasn’t the most expensive frock.

Back when dresses were always the expected attire for any gathering that was professional or vaguely formal, this dress was an easy, comfortable design to meet the need. Styles were loosening up a little, though structure was still important and tailoring very elevated. In the 1950’s things changed hugely in Western society and, of course, in fashion. I’ll be investigating during the next few days but we’ll continue the cocktail fashion timeline next week. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Oops – HERE’S ANOTHER 1930’S PARTY FROCK!

Several elements here from the decade between the two World Wars. Drapey rayon fabric, geometric beading decoration a la’ art deco and a dropped waist/peplum effect, a la; the 1920’s and the early 1940’s. The length also doesn’t know exactly where and when it is – looks pretty short on a tall gal like Stella but would be midi-length on a woman of short stature, or even medium height at that time when average height was shorter than it is today.

As “upscale” as this looks, it was apparently a massed-produced design. That makes it a little easier to understand why the styling was as confused as the times. Marketing always follows social trends. Think about it; we were still recovering from WW1, Prohibition was effecting the economy and the culture, The Depression was strangling almost everybody, war was fomenting in Europe and it was looking like WW2 might happen any day.

Yes, it’s a pretty and fun dress but the historical and cultural overtones are even more fascinating. Just another day in the life of a true vintage sleuth. We ARE going to cross the Post-war border between the 1940’s and the 1950’s by early next week. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM