Category Archives: WWII

TRUE VINTAGE RAYON SHEATH – PURE 1930’S DECO STYLE

Sleek and streamlined with a back neckline button closure. Overall gold-tone metal studs. Made of a heavy knit synthetic fabric that still drapes well despite it’s weight. A very business-like dress that would also go to a cocktail party with supreme confidence. This dress has PRESENCE. Worthy of any Hollywood actress of that time – looks like Joan Crawford to me. So completely different from the 1930’s frock in yesterday’s post.

Tomorrow we’ll be edging from the late 1940’s into the early 1950’s. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . By the way, I apologize for the photos that aren’t aligned to vertical. For some reason neither WordPress or my computer will allow me to edit this or I simply don’t know how.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEFORE ANIMAL RIGHTS ACTIVISM – FUR AND WOOL COATS AND CAPES FOR DRESSY DAYS AND EVENINGS

Seal, curly lamb, fine wool – even the more masculine overcoat and trench coat styles were worn by women. Remember Ingrid Bergman’s in Casablanca? Classics like this were considered to be very elegant back in the day. They still are, though our choice of materials is changing, thank goodness. Any of them would have been considered appropriate over dressy attire. On a warmer evening, this little velveteen jacket with 3/4 sleeves and a peplum waist would suit for any semi-formal or even formal occasion to keep bare arms and shoulders cozy.

Next, back to the ’30’s – ’40’s “cocktail” dresses rundown. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE SHOES AND BAG TO COMPLETE YOUR 1940’S DRESSY ENSEMBLE

Velveteen pumps, velveteen and velvet bags, even a 1930’s beaded version – what could be more perfect for a dressy evening out? Marvelous finds! Tomorrow I’ll show some 1940’s outerwear for the occasion. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGSPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S REPRODUCTION DRESS

Here’s a lovely frock made by an amateur (?) tailor with her own name label sewn in. The photos don’t do it justice – the tailoring is exceptional. No decoration – classic and elegant. Neckline is the focus, but the features of a post-war 1940’s New Look dressy frock are faithfully recreated – nipped waistline and the point at waist front, sweetheart neckline, very short sleeves and circle skirt. The fabric is a lush velvet.

So, I had to collect it when it showed up. More coming before we round out this decade. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL 1940’S COCKTAIL FROCK FROM URUGUAY

This semi-formal dress uses sheer material to emphasize the design rather than heavy ornamentation like the decorated frock shown yesterday. In my experience, sheer fabric with embroidered designs was popular in the 1940’s. It’s fun to see how dressmakers used it.

On the shoulders, these are augmented by gathered puffs at the shoulder seams and letting the body shine through rather than sewing shoulder pads in. It’s a nice balancing effect without the military look. Sheer fabric on the bodice is something I’ve seen before, too, but here it is backed by flesh-tone fabric, mimicking a plunging decollete’. The sheer fabric, though not with any embroidery, continues to be used for the long cuffed sleeves and as an over-dress with a long peplum over an opaque base layer.

So, the final result is dressy and sexy but also conservative. Clever design though a bit simpler than the one shown yesterday.This dress was at least partly hand-tailored. It has covered buttons on the cuffs and a long center zipper in back, which was a transition from side zippers that, in my experience, began to take place in the Forties.

Again, I was so intrigued and wondered about the original owner of this dress and where she wore it. Stay tuned for yet more 1940’s fashion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE POST-WAR 1940’S BEADED COCKTAIL DRESS

During a South American investigation, this frock was discovered in the beautiful and historic city of Montevideo, Uruguay. During WW 2, well-to-do Uruguayan women still had beautiful dresses made for them and did some trade in clothing and accessories from France. This dress has the label of a small tailoring shop, is exquisitely made by hand and was obviously owned by a woman from the upper class who would wear it to dinner or any semi-formal festive gathering.

Style-wise, the augmented shoulders, funky ruching on the hips and sleeves plus the midi hem point directly to the late 1940’s. Heavy decoration with beads and sequins is all done by hand, as is the finishing. Look at all the small buttons in back, each with it’s own fabric loop closure. Stay tuned for more from the 1940’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL RAYON DRESSY DAY-DRESS FROM THE POST-WAR 1940’S

Taking a short break from the LBDs and going for a little color. This beautiful navy blue fitted rayon dress is a perfect example of the late 1940’s return to more luxurious day wear after the restrictions of rationing were ended. The label is Loma Leads, from a dress company that was organized in the late 1920’s and operated in New York and Paris. It had several departments and was around in one form or another at least into the early 1960’s. A very uptown classic ladies dress from the time when there was more fabric available again, so hemlines came back down and extra tailoring details like the peplum and bodice tucks were again possible. Women had been SO waiting for this! The exuberance of big rhinestone buttons on a day dress speaks to the attitude of a return to extravagance in fashion. The big skirts of Christian Dior’s New Look at this time is another example.

This style, however, is very buttoned-up and, to my mind, underlines the haughty, elegant and “rich” look intended here. After all the restrictions and deprivations of the “make do and mend” wartime years, luxury and affluence were the beckoning horizon for the United States and Canada while Europe was more intent on surviving and rebuilding after all the extensive damage to their infrastructure and land. But, Paris had always led the world of couture and design so fashion bounced back there, too, as Dior and other designers met the challenges and optimism of the new era and resumed their lead.

It is so fascinating to untangle the ways that fashion trends dovetail with historical events. The clues are everywhere and a good sleuth always looks for them. A completely different example from this time tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM . . . . . .

1940’S WARTIME – EARLY POST-WAR ERA DRESSY FROCK

This pretty dress is made of rayon material with a BIG velvet bow and inverted front pleat for added interest. I love the scalloped overlay and the shaping on the cuffs of the short sleeves, which is SO Forties! This dress is labeled as having been made by a company or maker that was nationalized during the years surrounding and following WW2 when many, if not most, fabrics and notions available to garment-makers before the war and the Depression were unavailable to manufacturers and home-tailors because of rationing. Women still wanted pretty fashions and our government helped to make that possible and affordable.

Despite having no lining or buttons, there are very nice tailoring details. It is, unusually for that time, quite a large size but is so well-cut that belting it on my size 6 mannequin (thank you, Madge!) still looks amazing. That is an advantage of any well-made garment and especially in the case of most true vintage clothing. Stay tuned for more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

UH – OH! CHANCE OF FROST OVERNIGHT. TIME FOR A TRUE VINTAGE WOOL JACKET.

Yes, it’s still September and early for wool but this post-war 1940’s – early 1950’s jacket is perfect for the transition. It’s fairly lightweight and the winter white color can take it through 3 seasons. Almost a blazer, but the fit makes me wonder if it once had a matching skirt. Who knows. I was thrilled to discover it. This beauty can stand alone.

Look at the wonderful tailoring details. A sculpted collar, cuffs and tabs at the hips that are accented with arty buttons (which are all still present!). Full lining in matching rayon(?) fabric. It may even have been custom-made. You just can’t beat the fabulous construction of most garments made during this era. It’s a tiny size that will fit well over a light blouse or even a tank. Easy to dress up or to wear more casually.

My best guess for what the weather is going to be like tomorrow, let alone next week, is up in the air (pun intended). I’ll keep on unpacking what I need, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND: TRUE VINTAGE WARTIME – MID – CENTURY JEWELRY

These pieces are very lovely and well-made. I am surprised that neither of them is signed or branded. It’s not often that I come across clues like these when just out and about – usually they wind up in antique stores or at estate sales.

The brooch is heavy and all the rhinestones are present. Its pin mechanism locks securely There is no corrosion on the gold-tone metal and it is quite clean overall. Someone loved this piece and stored it well. Easy to see why. I date it from the 1950’s to the early to mid-1960’s. The style is classic but modern and a bit lyrical, as was often seen in jewelry by Trifari during the same period.

The pearl bracelet is older and originally was at least as nice. There is a simple, box – push clasp which is not found on most precious jewelry with the exception of some very lightweight pieces; But the metal, while not fine, is untarnished and clean and the latch is secure. The bracelet is heavy but this is predominantly from the weight of the champagne-colored pearls, which I believe are genuine (though surely cultured). One is missing on the clasp, but I think I will be able to replace it. The strands are knotted between the gems. There are a few tiny rhinestones on the clasp and the keeper bars. Only one is missing, in a spot where this would never be noticed. Overall, this is also a very good-quality costume piece in a classic style and I would date it from the late 1930’s to the war-time 1940’s possibly to the early 1960’s.

Though fine jewelry is easier to trace, any accessory piece is a good place to start an investigation. I’ll probably keep them in the files for a while. What a coup if that missing pearl should show up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM