Tag Archives: lifestyle

JUST FOUND: TRUE VINTAGE POST – WAR MID – CENTURY JEWELRY

These pieces are very lovely and well-made. I am surprised that neither of them is signed or branded. It’s not often that I come across clues like these when just out and about – usually they wind up in antique stores or at estate sales.

The brooch is heavy and all the rhinestones are present. Its pin mechanism locks securely. There is no corrosion on the gold-tone metal and it’s quite clean overall. Someone loved this piece and stored it well. Easy to see why. I date it from the 1950’s to the early to mid-1960’s. The style is classic but modern and a bit lyrical, as was often seen in jewelry by Trifari during the same period.

The pearl bracelet is older and originally was at least as nice. There is a simple, box – push clasp which is not found on most precious jewelry with the exception of some very lightweight pieces; But the metal, while not fine, is untarnished and clean and the latch is secure. The bracelet is heavy but this is predominantly from the weight of the champagne-colored pearls, which I believe are genuine (though surely cultured). One is missing on the clasp, but I think I will be able to replace it. The strands are knotted between the gems. There are a few tiny rhinestones on the clasp and the keeper bars. Only one is missing, in a spot where this would never be noticed. Overall, this is also a very good-quality costume piece in a classic style and I would date it from the war-time 1940’s possibly to the early 1960’s.

Though fine jewelry is easier to trace, any accessory piece is a good place to start an investigation. I’ll probably keep them in the files for a while. What a coup if that missing pearl should show up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE NEW DISCOVERIES: TRUE VINTAGE CASUAL SHOES OF FINE LEATHER

Made in Brazil and Spain – in the 1980’s and 1990’s, two of the BEST places where great shoes and other leather goods were made. Italy and Portugal were also at the top of that list. These were made for well-known brands but small unbranded shoemakers (especially in Latin America and Europe) sold beautiful creations if you were able to find them. I knew immediately that these were vintage footwear pieces and that the quality would be outstanding. The truth, as always, is in the details and I have included photographs and descriptions of the most important ones.

The leather in the top-pictured flats is glove-soft. I adore the embroidered stars covering the vamps. The little finishing detail at the top of the heels was one sign of exceptional workmanship. I usually find this detail on well-made true vintage European footwear. These were made in Spain by Pikolinos, a family brand founded in 1984. Love the style!

The camel-colored flats with brown trim are made in an elegant style meant as a driving shoe (notice the extension of the sole material on the back of the heels). See the little stitching detail that secures the seam there, too, plus the brown trim which reinforces the heel opening but is also very stylish. On the edges of the vamps where the foot enters there are slim inserts of elastic material and elegant stitching detail. These shoes were made in Brazil for Naturalizer, a more common North American company which nevertheless made some excellent quality footwear, at least in the past.

Both these pairs of shoes have a hard but flexible vinyl/rubber sole that is very appropriate for street wear and resists damage. Again, they will last for decades longer. I couldn’t be happier to find these practical styles in one place! Stay tuned for the last installment of this most recent investigation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – TRUE VINTAGE BEAUTIFUL, HIGH QUALITY LEATHER BOOTS!

Love, love, love!!!!! Most likely from the 1980’s – maybe the 1990’s. Always one of my favorite finds (they fit!!!!!), and definitely keepers that will serve me well forever. These boots were made in Brazil of lovely, soft leather. The clues abound regarding their excellent pedigree:

1. The craftsmanship is exquisite: even, strong stitching with high quality elastic gussets that have held their shape and stretch. Notice the nice little tab at the back which looks good but also provides a gripping place to pull the boots on comfortably, without stretching that would pull them out of shape.

2. The soles and heels look very much like leather, which is always a plus because it can be repaired by a skilled shoemaker or shoe-repair technician, but instead are made of the wonderful Vibram-type material which came later in the mid-century and is virtually indestructible. The finish eventually wears off the soles but they don’t wear down as quickly as leather. Repair and replacement are hardly ever needed.

3, The heels are so well-crafted that they have the look of stacked leather, though they probably are not(?)

4. The Granny-style of the heels was fashionable at the time these were made but the overall design is perfectly classic and elegant. Despite the heel style these boots are wearable with most clothing types without looking dated and will continue to be in the future.

This investigation proved not only the age, origin and construction details of these boots, but also strong clues as to what class of person owned and wore them as well as the type of vendor which sold them originally. Although modern technology would allow a greater depth of detailed knowledge to be ascertained in a laboratory, I will leave those tasks to the forensic teams. For my purposes, the investigation is perfect and ends here, in my closet.

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As I’ve said before, I don’t support the markets for any type of animal skins (including fur) by buying newly-made products that involve the raising, hunting and slaughter of the animals who provide them. I also avoid products made from wool, down and other feathers and silk, which also involve animal cruelty. Collecting beautiful true vintage artifacts easily satisfies my curiosity and fulfills my needs.

As the marketplace continues to offer more alternatives, my diet and toiletries are always vegetarian and vegan whenever possible. Excellent alternatives to most products are available and the prices are constantly coming down. Now that cruelty-free hard goods (not food or other things that will spoil) have been in the marketplace for a few years, it’s increasingly possible to find them in places where previously used items are sold or traded. True vintage items may not have been made with an ethical mentality, but they don’t contribute to cruelty and abuse in the present. Secondhand purchases don’t give money to current unethical manufacturing processes or the people who sell them either, as long as you are not buying from the original producer or vendor. And, the older things are, the better the quality in most cases. What could be better?

This is just the beginning of my posts of recent discoveries. More are coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND! A BEAUTIFUL TRUE VINTAGE ACCESSORY IN CLASSIC TOOLED LEATHER

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I always LOVE discovering these gorgeous handmade leather accessories from the mid-century. As they become rarer, it’s a huge thrill to uncover one by surprise! In this case, the wallet is so classic and early mid-century that I love the design. An added bonus is the near-perfect condition. A small amount of common greenish corrosion can be seen on the metal snap closing the coin pocket but it works perfectly. I will remove the corrosion with a bit of vinegar. Other signs of light use are very minor – looks like it was cared for lovingly.

Let’s start the evaluation with the exterior, which has a traditional rosebush motif. This is an early pattern, seen on some of the older items I’ve found. It’s amazing to find the leather lacing around the edges unbroken and in such pristine condition. On the inside, I adore the additional features such as sleeves for a drivers license and other cards, receipts, etc. This billfold was probably made for a man in spite of the rose design, likely before the time of common credit cards, but has such an unusual addition of the coin purse inside; Multi-tasking before the modern era of man-purses and other pocket accessories. However, the bi-color interior is also an unexpected feature to see in an older men’s accessory. Who knows the sex of the original owner? I always love a mystery!!

This beauty will have a gentle massage with leather lotion to extend it’s lifetime even more. Back at Headquarters, I’ll look in the files to see which of my tooled leather purses may need an additional accessory – I always try to match the finishes and designs, if possible. If there’s no good match, this billfold can stand on its own, with spaces for all money-related items (excepting a checkbook).

So, two surprise discoveries in my brief investigation two days ago and both of them unusual and wonderful! See my other find in yesterday’s post. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE PATIO LEISURE LONG DRESSES FROM THE 1970’S – 1990’S

Through the decades the changes in style are often subtle, but they’re noticeable if your sleuthing trade skills are sharp. One thing that all these dresses have in common is excellent quality. I showed several dresses of this genre which were made in the Victorian/Prairie style when covering 1970’s Prom dresses a couple of months ago. Early in that decade, girls sometimes wore them to the Prom but they were usually fussier with lace and more details. Jessica McClintock of Gunne Sax styled them for at least 20 – 30 years. Labels always help, of course, but aren’t always present. The condition of all these examples is near-perfect, which can make the job a easier, though tell-tale signs of wear can sometimes be very helpful clues. Let’s start from left to right:

A Prairie-style gown, pretty and modest in cotton. Looks like it was made for retail because of the precise tailoring detail, but there is no label. I would put it in the 1970’s but it could possibly have been made later by an individual expert or a company that catered to a niche market which preferred very modest styles of dress.

A red and white plaid gown that picks up on the Prairie style, but in a much more casual, carefree design reminiscent of the 1960’s. It’s probably made from cotton but I can’t be sure without the file in front of me and it could be cotton/poly blend. It was made in the 1980’s in West Germany. This is an example of trends jumping the oceans, usually years after they originally appeared in the Western nations. Although they’ve done their own take on the style, it’s exceptionally well-made, as goods from West Germany have always tended to be, in my experience.

A black and white floral print gown made in Hawaii. This one is from the 1980’s, give or take a decade and is the most elegant. Same deal about the fabric as in the previous dress. The style is pure average conservative, which makes it harder to date exactly. A pretty dress, but nothing distinctive about it excepting for excellent tailoring. It might have been a wardrobe item of someone who lived in Hawaii, purchased at a specialty shop stateside which carried Hawaiian garments or by someone who bought it while on vacation. Hawaiian-made gowns have been popular with women worldwide since the 1950’s, but earlier ones were usually made in more traditional Hawaiian style and, often, of Hawaiian fabric with traditional island prints. The more mainstream universal designs like this one came later.

The final dress is from the 1990’s. Always harder for me to think of as true vintage, but it is worthy because of the good tailoring, 100% cotton fabric and the retail designer label sold by a high-end department store in New York City. It’s got pedigree. Again, nothing notable about the style but it is very well-cut, which can make a world of difference in terms of how a dress fits. That’s one feature of even plain, rather boring vintage clothing items that can make them worth collecting and wearing. The style can always be elevated by adding accessories but one thing that always elevates any garment is how well it is made and how well it fits.

Tomorrow I’ll be showing a collection of dressy day-wear accessories from the 1960’s that fit the category of well-made, classic and designer items that can “make” an outfit. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1950’S DRESSY DAY-WEAR

Let’s start with this novel style by a famous French (undoubtedly Paris) designer. The knock-off pictured above was by Nelly Don, a well-known mid-century ladieswear label in the U.S. The belted sheath dress woven of substantial cotton or a blend has a wide detachable peplum which creates this avant garde silhouette. The French designer brought this luxury style out in 1952 and the mid-priced American version followed quickly.

A very pretty semi-sheer dress with a scarf neckline is unusual in an olive green and purple print which I love. Again, it’s belted and fitted as were most of the dresses of this time and follows a shirtdress style.

This green pencil skirt is made in a relatively briefly-used but popular fabric which consists of thin, rayon(?) ribbon that is coiled in a continuous design, appliqued onto another fabric base. Imagine it worn with a pretty, fitted blouse. I have a black skirt suit made in this fabric and a family member owned a short-sleeved dress in a gold color, back in the day.

The shirtwaist dress never lost it’s place and continued into the Fifties and beyond in fabrics which ranged from cotton and cotton blends to rayon and silk. The simplest daywear styles continued to be the housewife’s daily uniform. This one is a slightly upscaled version in a more complex print with embroidered trim and tucks.

This black and white dressed-up sundress would have been appropriate to go on a date, to the Ladies’ Club, Country Club or shopping in the city. It may have been custom-made, as women and professional tailors continued to use their skills this way though not as much out of necessity as during wartime. The Fifties were about being thrifty but also stylish and having more!

Shoe styles carried over from the 1940’s but with sleeker lines. Pumps were a bit more cutaway and more often had sling-backs. Soles and heels were slimmer. Peep toes continued, which I absolutely love. Hairstyles became smaller and neater again as did hats, which continued to be de rigueur for any well-dressed woman. Also, a pair of well-made gloves in a style which complemented your outfit and a short string of pearls with almost anything from casual to dressy outfits were considered to be necessities for elegant style. Handbags adopted many styles but here are a couple of semi-dressy designs that carry over the classic “tapestry” floral design and introduce the decorative metal frames and vinyl covering which began to be more popular.

Tomorrow we’ll stay in the same Forties to Fifties time-frame but focus on casual separates and trends. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’s Western-wear Fashion Trend, Inspired by the Movies

Cowboy movies, which actually began a decade or so before the 1940’s, gained popularity and caused a major fashion movement in the Forties and Fifties. This beautiful men’s shirt, which belonged to a family member, is one of the favorite pieces I’ve ever seen. The colors are vibrant and who doesn’t love red and turquoise together? Look at the detail! There are even small pockets tucked under the yoke piping in front. Some of these were custom-tailored.

Cowboy hats also became very popular. This one is a well-preserved woven straw but wool felt hats by Stetson, in particular, were the most often seen. Bolo ties, made of leather with silver slides and aiguillettes replaced fabric neckties in Western-wear dress-up.

I have a pair of 1940’s women’s high-waist wool slacks with wide fabric belt loops finished with pearlized snaps. What a rare find! Don’t have a picture of them handy, but take my word that some of the Western fad did cross over into women’s-wear. I’ve got a cowboy-style shirt with floral embroidery and a fringed leather jacket from this era. This mother-of-pearl brooch is an example and, of course, silver and turquoise jewelry made by Native Americans was the real deal. I also have many examples of that, some that were owned by family members, too.

Naturally, the popularity of Western-wear has not decreased over the decades. Although there is a niche market for the very authentic and work-oriented designs, the style shows up in retail fashion all the time. A very pronounced trend really hit in the early 1950’s – that was Southwestern-style cotton dresses, most of which were 2-piece, and heavily decorated with colorful ric-rac and ribbon. Some Native American women wore these and they were heavily marketed for tourists in the southwestern states. 1940’s versions had 3/4 length skinny sleeves with metal zippers to the elbow. Later, short-sleeved versions and even cap-sleeve style dresses showed up in the genre. I’ve shown many of these in past blog posts. Add to that soft leather ankle-length boots and beaded moccasins. So glad that my family alive during the ’30’s – ’50’s enjoyed traveling to the the Southwest and did so many times!

Very fun, collectable and wearable. Tomorrow I’ll be showing women’s blouses & tops from this era. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE DAY DRESSES THROUGH THE DECADES, HANDBAGS AND SHOES – 1930’s

Two of my favorite 1930’s dresses to wear and one when I feel like Bonnie of Bonnie and Clyde. The fabrics feel so wonderful on the body and the fit is killer because of the fabulous drape. An earlier find, I was thrilled to discover the blue dress because of it’s condition. The original buttons and belt are present and no damage to the trim at the neckline. Also, no stains! You can see that the body of the dress has faded a bit due to years of washing by the original owner (compare to the color of the belt, which would not have been put in the laundry), but I don’t mind. The floral-print yellow and green frock is near-perfect and is a bit more casual. Super easy-breezy. The crocheted dress with satiny rayon slip given to me by a family member who found it in an old antique wardrove is the real star. It still has the authentic celluloid plastic belt buckle. The longer hemline makes it probably the oldest of the group, from the very early ’30’s. I have to include a 1980’s or ’90’s dress that dipped into a retro 1930’s. The yellow rayon belted sheath is a fun fashion with loyalty to the Thirties style and lovely rayon fabric.

These are both mid-priced dresses, at most, but have held up over 70 years before finding their way into my closet. It’s possible they were home-sewn. I love the elbow-length sleeves and the way that the fabric causes the hemline to ripple and sway. Very flattering. Both do require a slip underneath because of the sheerness and, since they are warmer weather frocks, I like to wear a true vintage cotton slip with very little decoration so that it doesn’t show through and compete with the print. Slips of that sort are hard to find since most of the slips that have survived are made of nylon and full of decorative detail. Although some fabrics don’t seem to require a slip, wearing one often causes the dress to fit and move so much better. Your other foundation garments i.e. brassiere, underpants and even stockings will have a real effect on how your outfit looks so it’s an important consideration. I have silk tap pants and some silk slips from the pre-war and WWII era that are good examples of undergarments that work really well with dresses like these.

Mary Jane style shoes are seen in every decade since the 1920’s. Decorated flats became popular for women, too, especially when they began wearing slacks. The shoes shown above may be a little younger than the dresses and purses, but are still within a decade or so. Handbags woven from synthetic yarn were another way that the market for clothing and accessories coped with the economic downturn of the Depression and the looming rationing of wartime. Leather, silk, quality cotton and wool were less available and too expensive for many buyers. The big move forward in the development of synthetics changed clothing in big ways, many having to do with fit, comfort and convenience so, overall, the deprivation turned out to be a plus. Tomorrow we move into the 1940’s. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LINGERIE ROBES & SLEEPWEAR FROM 1930’S TO MID-CENTURY

I’m definitely in the mood to look at some pretty Spring lingerie, although it won’t keep us as warm. The 1970’s RED velour robe by Vanity Fair is an exception, but I had to include it for St. Valentine’s Day.

A floral heavy cotton housecoat robe from the 1930’s with big sculpted buttons was a fabulous find! See how it compares when we jump to the 1950’s, 1960’s and 1970’s. Double-layer nylon peignoirs and gowns began to appear in the Forties and there were some beautiful ones in silk during the Thirties and Forties before WWII rationing disrupted all of that. Lots of great synthetic materials were developed during this time, however, and the 1950’s nylon used for sleepwear and slips is fabulous! Thick, glossy and still silky to the touch, it could be found into the 1960’s and very early 1970’s but since then has mostly been replaced by cheaper, poorer quality fabric that doesn’t feel or look the same and is definitely inferior.

Until then, we had this wonderful nylon that can be dyed in bright colors, lasts forever and feels like heaven on the body. Lingerie from this time also included beautiful tailoring and details like lace and embroidery which was high quality and didn’t come loose. Tiny pearlized plastic or fabric-covered buttons and satin ribbon were also common. That’s why these garments still look and feel so beautiful 50 – 70 years later!

This marvelous nylon was also used to make lingerie slips, of course, and women bought a gazillion of them while day dresses were still the standard outfit for daily wear. When we go back to looking at day dresses through the decades, I will be opening an archive of beautiful slips, too. First, I think our mid-century gal is getting back from her vacation tomorrow so we will see what she bought at the beach and start the dresses review afterward. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MEN’S AND LADIES’ SLEEPWEAR & ROBES FROM THE 1950’S & 1960’S

While our mid-century gal is off on her snowbird vacation (see posts from the last few days), Baby, it’s COLD outside here at home! Although Spring is just around the corner (yes, it really is), we still need to be snuggling into robes and pajamas at night. I love doing posts about my archives of true vintage lingerie because it’s always so interesting and pretty. So, let’s take a closer look at these files –

For the men, a swanky rayon bathrobe makes any guy an instant sophisticate. Abstract medallion print with satin trim. How aristocratic! As for the PJs, cotton print men’s pajamas from the 1940’s and 1950’s are so wonderful. Of course, they wear to cozy softness but the real star of the scene is the art prints that many of them displayed. This pair have stylized hand fans all over – an unusual motif for men’s PJs, but that’s what they are. Both pieces show the standard tailoring for men’s garments, though it’s fun for women to wear them, too.

For the ladies, true vintage sleepwear and robes are always so lovely. Even very plain ones seem to have pretty tailoring details. The rosy red robe pictured above is made from a plush fabric. Details include pretty buttons, satin piping on the collar and 3/4 length bell sleeves. The deadstock cotton PJs are plain but still have pretty lace trim and pearl buttons. I think the plaid fabric is quite nice, too. The thing I like most about these old-style pajamas is how the waistline is made. It does have some elastic around the back, but the front is plain and closes with a side button. It also has at least one hip pocket, which is surprisingly convenient.

Tomorrow, before our vacationer gets home, I’ll look at another true vintage sleepwear archive with more Spring-like styling. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM