Category Archives: sheath

TRUE VINTAGE MID-1960’s BLACK JACQUARD ASIAN-STYLE LBD

Since the Post-war 1950’s, interest in Asian-style dresses (and other garments) has grown, with pretty sheaths like this one creeping into women’s closets. Clothing made in British Hong Kong established a reputation for being exceptionally well-made. Tailors from China, principally, expanded their clientele and any city’s Chinatown was a great place to shop. Silk and hand-decorated versions are always the most beautiful, but all these clothes tend to be well-made, often with hand-done finishing. Because of their persistent fashionable presence, excellent quality and traditional design they can be categorized as Classic clothing. Though they are mass-produced now, versions from the 1960’s were still of high quality.

This little dress was made to sell, simply-designed with a center back metal zipper, moderately priced and styled to the then-current fad for mandarin collars and mini-skirt hems. It’s free of embroidered design, but the jacquard fabric is glossy and woven with an Asian medallion motif. Just right for making an entrance to a casual mid-Sixties cocktail party.

I’m wrapping up the cocktail LBDs for the 1960’s decade with this cutie. Tomorrow I’ll begin showing some dressy coats that would be just right with most of them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MOD 1960’S COCKTAIL SHEATH DRESS BY CAROL CRAIG

Here we’ve got a black crepe sheath, gently fitted with a band of op-art bling at the hemline. Notice that the hemline has become shorter than in the previous examples. Although it’s obviously a cocktail party style, there’s nothing dressy here excepting the band of sequins. Classic and simple – could cautiously be described as elegant on that account – but seems pretty “ho-hum” to me though we have to remember that in 1964 or so this would have been seen as fashion-forward in a mid-priced dress.

Carol Craig was a mid-century division of the Loma Dress company and designed moderately-priced frocks in Misses sizes during the 1950’s and 1960’s. In my experience, they’re not “cream-of-the-crop” but very nice and stylish for the time; worth collecting. I’ll see about showing my “new” 1960’s finds from yesterday before getting back onto the LBD and cocktail circuit. Stay tuned . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY’

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BACK TO PERFECTION – TRUE VINTAGE KENNEDY ERA SILK SHEATH LBD

Gorgeous 100% silk cocktail frock. Discovered in Canada, by a Canadian designer. Look at the ruching and draping from the waistline in this very unique sheath style. The cap sleeves and below-the-knee hemline plus the fitted shape place this beauty’s vintage from the late 1950’s to the very early 1960’s. Never will see another one like it.

Tomorrow we’ll be squarely in the 1960’s with a variety of cocktail dresses on the way as a new design era unfolds. Stay tuned. . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S KENNEDY ERA COCTAIL PARTY DRESS

Interesting tailoring on this dress. Much more fussy than a true LBD. The lace overlay fabric was commonly used in the early 1960’s but the pouchy drapes attached to the hips almost look like something from the late 1940’s and the pleated bodice looks like many from the early 1950’s. All of this confusion makes a straight-cut sheath style look entirely different and made this frock completely unique.

It seems to me that changes from one decade to the next and significant historical events have often caused interesting and, sometimes, odd shifts in fashion. The early ’60’s also swung back to the New Look nipped waistlines and poufy skirts for a little while. More 1960’s designs on the way – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SPARKLEY 1950’S EARLY 1960’S PARTY DRESS

Nobody who matters will take issue with the fact that this dress is not black. The mauve lurex thread on a black background is gorgeous. Enjoy your martini and party on.

Jacquard fabric with a glossy finish was very popular at this time for special occasion frocks. Nipped waists and full-ish skirts carried on, though the slinky sheath never goes out of style. Demure and more daring aspects of design often appear on the same dress, as seen in the neckline and closely fitted torso here, paired with a skirt that hides the shape of the legs. Fashion that sends two messages, especially for women, always makes social life more complicated but has usually been the direction of women’s clothing style. Maybe we’re starting to get away from that now?

At any rate, hemlines are changing again and the midi will soon be OUT. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Oops – HERE’S ANOTHER 1930’S PARTY FROCK!

Several elements here from the decade between the two World Wars. Drapey rayon fabric, geometric beading decoration a la’ art deco and a dropped waist/peplum effect, a la; the 1920’s and the early 1940’s. The length also doesn’t know exactly where and when it is – looks pretty short on a tall gal like Stella but would be midi-length on a woman of short stature, or even medium height at that time when average height was shorter than it is today.

As “upscale” as this looks, it was apparently a massed-produced design. That makes it a little easier to understand why the styling was as confused as the times. Marketing always follows social trends. Think about it; we were still recovering from WW1, Prohibition was effecting the economy and the culture, The Depression was strangling almost everybody, war was fomenting in Europe and it was looking like WW2 might happen any day.

Yes, it’s a pretty and fun dress but the historical and cultural overtones are even more fascinating. Just another day in the life of a true vintage sleuth. We ARE going to cross the Post-war border between the 1940’s and the 1950’s by early next week. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE RAYON SHEATH – PURE 1930’S DECO STYLE

Sleek and streamlined with a back neckline button closure. Overall gold-tone metal studs. Made of a heavy knit synthetic fabric that still drapes well despite it’s weight. A very business-like dress that would also go to a cocktail party with supreme confidence. This dress has PRESENCE. Worthy of any Hollywood actress of that time – looks like Joan Crawford to me. So completely different from the 1930’s frock in yesterday’s post.

Tomorrow we’ll be edging from the late 1940’s into the early 1950’s. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . By the way, I apologize for the photos that aren’t aligned to vertical. For some reason neither WordPress or my computer will allow me to edit this or I simply don’t know how.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL RAYON DRESSY DAY-DRESS FROM THE POST-WAR 1940’S

Taking a short break from the LBDs and going for a little color. This beautiful navy blue fitted rayon dress is a perfect example of the late 1940’s return to more luxurious day wear after the restrictions of rationing were ended. The label is Loma Leads, from a dress company that was organized in the late 1920’s and operated in New York and Paris. It had several departments and was around in one form or another at least into the early 1960’s. A very uptown classic ladies dress from the time when there was more fabric available again, so hemlines came back down and extra tailoring details like the peplum and bodice tucks were again possible. Women had been SO waiting for this! The exuberance of big rhinestone buttons on a day dress speaks to the attitude of a return to extravagance in fashion. The big skirts of Christian Dior’s New Look at this time is another example.

This style, however, is very buttoned-up and, to my mind, underlines the haughty, elegant and “rich” look intended here. After all the restrictions and deprivations of the “make do and mend” wartime years, luxury and affluence were the beckoning horizon for the United States and Canada while Europe was more intent on surviving and rebuilding after all the extensive damage to their infrastructure and land. But, Paris had always led the world of couture and design so fashion bounced back there, too, as Dior and other designers met the challenges and optimism of the new era and resumed their lead.

It is so fascinating to untangle the ways that fashion trends dovetail with historical events. The clues are everywhere and a good sleuth always looks for them. A completely different example from this time tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM . . . . . .

ELEGANT MOD TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S LBD

From the early to mid-1960’s, a sleek, sleeveless classic sheath style cocktail dress with a boat neckline, which I love. It’s knee to bottom-of-knee length, which is a very flattering hemline on most women and was common at that time right before almost everything had an above-the-knee or mini length. It’s so hard to get good detail on black clothing in photos, but this one is easier because the only decoration is a medium-width band of black beading at the waistline. Very well-tailored in a light-medium weight knit fabric with a very nice drape. This one factor takes it over the line from a Summer dress to one for Fall. Good quality, good fit – the signature features of well-made true vintage clothing.

I have more examples in the files of 1960’s LBDs but, in my images file, I ran across a large number of dresses of this type from the 1940’s. I’ll probably break the timeline to put these in the next posts before resuming to LBD’s from the more recent decades. I am traveling back to Headquarters as of tomorrow, so there may be a few days pause while I reorganize. Won’t be long so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S DRESSY FROCK – ANOTHER FINELY HAND -TAILORED GARMENT FROM BRITISH HONG KONG

This dress is such a treat! I was so thrilled to uncover it. Look at the marvelous tailoring details and ingenious construction – A basic sheath style, with a heavily-decorated blouson top that appears to be separate, but is attached at the shoulders and fully-lined with a white silk under-blouse. Both layers close with a metal zipper. Hooks and eyes secure the neckline for good fit. The shoulders have strap-holders sewn in. The acetate skirt is also lined with black rayon and has a wide hem allowance plus a walking vent in the rear seam. Hand-finished all over.

In the ’50’s and 1960’s a woman of moderate means could save for the occasional purchase of clothing made this way and more prosperous women had closets full of nothing else. These were the standards of better-made garments during the mid-century. Now even very expensive clothing is sometimes constructed poorly and hardly ever as well as this dress is. The attention to detail and hand-done stitching made clothing fit better look more polished.

Tomorrow I’ll show you another frock from this decade. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM