Category Archives: homemade

TRUE VINTAGE HOME-SEWN LATE 1960’S – EARLY 1970’S ANSWER TO THE LBD

OK, now we find ourselves in about 1968 – 1972. Culture has changed big-time since 1963. Before the Prairie-style trend of the early – mid 1970’s, there was a heavy swing to Medieval and Edwardian style with lots of crushed velvet, panne’ velvet, pirate sleeves, ruffled cuffs and braided trim. This little black dress which was made at home has most of those features, plus a mini hemline and an elasticized waistline but otherwise is styled more like a tunic. No embellishment excepting for the gold braid around the neckline. Hardly a cocktail dress. I’m guessing that some teen girl might have worn it to her high school homecoming dance.

Fashion follows culture and history. The neat, feminine and careful tailoring of the 1940’s – early 1960’s kind of went out the window in favor of looser silhouettes and flowing skirts. Some commercially-produced dresses were less casual but younger women tended to prefer the bohemian look. As often happens, the Prairie style that followed in the early 1970’s, with its long skirts, tight bodices and cinched waists was a reactionary swing toward conservatism that entered pop culture under the radar. Most women didn’t realize that popular fashion reflected a wish to put women back into a social role from the past. However, some women got it. During the early 1970’s there was also a style trend toward 1940’s fashion – a time when women broke out of traditional roles to enter the workplace as part of the war effort during WW2. Remember Rosie the Riveter.

The push for women’s equal rights made great strides during the decade of the 1970’s. But, we now know that those gains may have made us complacent and that we can’t afford to be.

Tomorrow we’ll visit the 1980’s and explore these clues a little farther. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HERE COMES SANTA CLAUSE – AN EARLY 1960’S AT-HOME VELVET HOUSE DRESS

Perhaps appropriate for your intimate cocktail gathering with friends, but can you imagine anything more impractical than hosting a party wearing velvet and fur? Or dealing with Christmas morning craziness and food prep wearing this? No wonder it’s been packed away. Still, some home-based seamstress had a lot of fun planning and wearing this gown. It was the height of “fad-shion” and she must have felt like a queen. Good thing her sleeve didn’t get into the gravy or the baby’s diaper leak onto her lap.

No doubt this frock has a story but, after this short digression, it’s time to return to the LBD and it’s slightly-flashier cousins. We’ve moved into the late 1950’s – early 1960’s and it’s time to get back to some serious partying. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEATO! STELLA’S GOING TO THE HOP

What fun! Taking a break with friends from the regular Headquarters routine (but a Sleuth is a Sleuth 24/7) and what did I discover? This repro poodle circle skirt would be great for a costume anytime, but especially right about now. It was homemade, probably for exactly that purpose, so I’ll be donating it to the University theater but along with my FABULOUS find, it’s blog-worthy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Although I have some new-vintage re-do’s, an authentic pair of 1940’s – 1950’s saddle shoes has been on my radar for years. Look what I found!! In my size!!!

Spent yesterday afternoon wearing them around the house and they are SO comfortable. Older well-made footwear was built to last and usually fit well, too. Although these were just the daily, non-special go-to for teens and many adults and were undoubtedly moderately priced, the quality is built in. Even the messy polishing effort gives them the best street creds. I’m over the moon.

However, that wasn’t the end of the story. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S REPRODUCTION DRESS

Here’s a lovely frock made by an amateur (?) tailor with her own name label sewn in. The photos don’t do it justice – the tailoring is exceptional. No decoration – classic and elegant. Neckline is the focus, but the features of a post-war 1940’s New Look dressy frock are faithfully recreated – nipped waistline and the point at waist front, sweetheart neckline, very short sleeves and circle skirt. The fabric is a lush velvet.

So, I had to collect it when it showed up. More coming before we round out this decade. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

START OF A SERIES: TRUE VINTAGE PIECES FOR COOL, DRESSY EVENINGS

We’re now heading into the season for indoor parties, special occasions and events after the long, lovely summer; Cocktail parties, dinners, dances, recitals, holiday galas – you name it. I’ll be starting a series of posts of pretty, dressy and semi-formal garments in my collection from the 1950’s – 1990’s which will take us into the Fall and even Winter. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S LEISURE DRESSES – ALTERNATIVE STYLE FINDS THE MAINSTREAM

In the early 1960’s home-based seamstresses began making at-home leisure dresses. Velveteen was a popular fabric for hostess dresses that could work for cocktails with friends. An early flower-power dress in a traditional style was a more timid effort (looks like a vintage tablecloth) and a Mod print gown stepped firmly into the mid-decade. Washable cotton and blends made these easy-care garments and fashionable alternative styles for women who hadn’t been ready for 1950’s Boho or early ’60’s minis.

Tomorrow we’ll look at dresses from this genre that appeared later in the Sixties. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S CUSTOM-TAILORED 2-PIECE DRESS, COORDINATING JACKET AND HATS!

Here’s another 3-season dress with known history. That’s always SO wonderful. It was passed on to me by the mother of a friend, who made it herself. It is of a lightweight wool, fully lined and beautifully tailored. The lightweight but lined blue and green jacket is a commercially-made piece which I discovered separately, but is a perfect accompaniment in color, style and era.

With this ensemble or with the skirt suit shown yesterday, an early Sixties cellophane hat would also be a perfect accessory. Nothing looks more like Spring to me, and I think we’re more than ready!

A little heads-up: I’ll be having guests over the next month so, though I will try to post daily, the times may be erratic and I may skip a day or two. But, there’s still lots more in the archives, not to mention possible new evidence, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Mid-century Long Formal Dress – Theater Reproduction?

This frock was an unusual find and a bit of a mystery. The sewing notions such as the zipper are from the mid-century but the overall style is undefined. My best guess is that this gown was made for a theater production back in the day. It is not as carefully constructed or designed as garments made for commercial sale or general wear. The only other possibility is that it was made by an inexperienced seamstress. It’s fun to find these kinds of things occasionally, which exercise your sleuthing skills! Back to the “real thing” tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage 1940’s – early 1960’s Red Velveteen Party Dress for Christmas Holiday Celebrations

A fun little frock while the parties are still free-wheeling with cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, music and dancing. You could also bring it out again at St. Valentine’s Day. This dress is a pure home-sewn creation made or commissioned by some gal who was definitely in the party spirit and looking forward to a great time. Some clues date the dress as early as the 1940’s, but I suspect it’s not quite that old. That skirt is definitely styled for dancing, though.

The festive holiday clue is the sequin decoration on the bodice, which makes me think more of the 1950’s. No other clues to the details of the stories that it has to tell, but I’m sure we can invent quite a few . . . .. . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM