Category Archives: British influence

TRUE VINTAGE ’50’S – EARLY ’60’S COCKTAIL BLOUSE FROM DOWN UNDER

What a wonderful, unique and chic mid-century piece! Discovered during an investigation in Australia, this pretty top made in Britain (or by a British company) is made from semi-sheer fabric that has a woven-in contrasting pattern. It buttons up the back and has the distinctive feature of 3/4 length sleeves with fur cuffs. Great fit and gorgeous over a black skirt or dressy pants. Casual, but elegant.

Women’s semi-formal clothes were especially fabulous between the 1920’s and 1960’s. Although many dresses, skirts and blouses had lovely decoration in the years before, styles were too buttoned-up for my taste. After the 1960’s quality, creativity and elegance really seemed to take a dive. Give me styles from the Prohibition speakeasys, film noir and revolutionary Sixties any day. The Seventies had too much polyester, the Eighties had some great Forties retro and avante guarde New Wave but were overall too gaudy and the Nineties had an overabundance of black. Of course, great pieces were made during all these decades but seemed to be the exception. Just my opinion – you decide.

Thank goodness that modern faux fur and animal skin alternatives have become almost indistinguishable from real ones which, in my opinion, are an abomination. This also includes silk, tortoise shell, horn, coral, pearls and ivory. True vintage pieces made from these materials decades ago are an important part of fashion history and can be fun to collect and wear but I ask my viewers NEVER to support the market for these products by buying modern items made from them. This is how we can block the profit from breeding and slaughtering these wonderful creatures and stop it. If you are looking for clothing and accessories made from any of these, check at a secondhand thrift or antique store. Thank you and stay tuned for that 1940’s series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S DRESSY FROCK – ANOTHER FINELY HAND -TAILORED GARMENT FROM BRITISH HONG KONG

This dress is such a treat! I was so thrilled to uncover it. Look at the marvelous tailoring details and ingenious construction – A basic sheath style, with a heavily-decorated blouson top that appears to be separate, but is attached at the shoulders and fully-lined with a white silk under-blouse. Both layers close with a metal zipper. Hooks and eyes secure the neckline for good fit. The shoulders have strap-holders sewn in. The acetate skirt is also lined with black rayon and has a wide hem allowance plus a walking vent in the rear seam. Hand-finished all over.

In the ’50’s and 1960’s a woman of moderate means could save for the occasional purchase of clothing made this way and more prosperous women had closets full of nothing else. These were the standards of better-made garments during the mid-century. Now even very expensive clothing is sometimes constructed poorly and hardly ever as well as this dress is. The attention to detail and hand-done stitching made clothing fit better look more polished.

Tomorrow I’ll show you another frock from this decade. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID – LATE 1960’S LONG LEISURE DRESSES – MOD, WITCHY, ETHNIC

British influence Medieval/Victorian/Edwardian vibes, Op-Art, Flower Power and Indigenous influences allowed mainstream women to enjoy some “revolutionary” style during this transformative decade while not getting too far away from classic traditions. Plus the fact that they couldn’t have been more comfortable, convenient and flattering.

Fabulous sleeves, hand-done embroidery, geometric floral graphics. Love, love, love! Of course I had to collect these clues. Tomorrow we’ll step into the progression of this genre in examples from the Seventies, Eighties and Nineties. Stay tuned . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1950’S – MID-1960’S DRESSES

Late Fifties saw slinky knit sheath dresses that carried over the new, easy-care synthetics from the 1940’s. The prints morphed slowly from geometric, atomic shapes back to cute animals, fruits and veggies. This fabric is amazingly comfortable and drapes beautifully but was economical. Common, moderately-priced frocks were made from it.

Just a few years later, lace overlay became the big thing. Dressy day-dresses were often made from it, as well as semi-formal and formal gowns. These were also generally made from synthetic or blended fabrics but probably required dry-cleaning. Better frocks often came from British Hong Kong, where the design and hand-made tailoring made them exceptionally elegant and of higher quality. These dresses were still within the reach of middle-income ladies but were more expensive. See the black dressy sheath with a beaded over-blouse above. The straight black high-neck sheath came from Saks Fifth Avenue.

Then, again from the Brits, came Mary Quant’s Tent Dress in 1964. Although the Mod style had started in the 1950’s, it’s appearance in clothing was totally revolutionary. It brought with it radically shorter hemlines and easy-to-wear, casual shapes. See the light blue, home-sewn version above.

Some styles retained their classic, conservative lines and stuck to neutral or basic tones while bright colors became ever more popular, even in formal garments. While political and social movements became radicalized and changed society, the Hippie, Boho and Prairie styles started to take over in the late 1960’s and carried over into the early 1970’s. Tomorrow we’ll look at some of the ways that popular fashion incorporated these trends into mainstream dressing. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A FEW TRUE VINTAGE MEN’S SWEATERS, WOOL SHIRT AND 2 JACKETS FROM THE 1960’S AND 1970’S

Here are a few of the iconic everyday styles seen frequently in menswear from the early 1960’s until the mid 1970’s. The 1970’s styles, shown in the center panel, are still probably in production. Cardigans and pullovers have been popular for men at least since the 1940’s. The styles produced in the 1940’s and 1950’s were most interesting, with colorful knitted-in patterns and leather inserts.

In the top panel, first shown is a woolen knit cardigan with embossed metallic buttons. It’s an imported European style. Second is a wool shirt, which has been a cold-weather casual staple for men for decades. The Henley neckline closure makes this one unique. After that, an iconic suede leather jacket with sweater-knit collar and sleeves. I have several of these in the archives, in different earth-tone colors. They are beautiful pieces which have, surprisingly, survived the decades in excellent condition. Next are 2 plain, standard cardigans which have been a part of almost every older man’s wardrobe (often with leather elbow patches) and younger mens’, too, especially when they have been designed as golf sweaters. The first, with patch pockets, is made of wool and is older – probably 1960’s. The second, in burgundy, is acrylic knit as is the light blue Izod V-neck. Standard 1970’s construction and fabric.

Finally, I picked this iconic Ted Williams hunting jacket to include in the post. Ted Williams was a famous baseball player and lent his name to this jacket sold by Sears & Roebuck in the early 1960’s. The label tells the marketing story and you can see the heavy knitted neckline. Cuffs are made of the same material. In front, the jacket zips and has standard-looking pockets. I have shown the back view because the rear “game pocket” is most visible. It extends across the lower back and opens with a zipper on both sides.

This find was an education for me, as I’d never heard of Ted Williams or seen this type of jacket before. What great clues in any investigation! Women’s styles tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’S – ’50’S SEMI-FORMAL FROCK WHICH COULD ALSO HAVE BEEN FOR A BRIDE

Such an interesting frock. Midi length on Stella, but she’s tall so it could have been tea or floor length on a woman of short stature. I couldn’t decide whether this dress was tailor-made or purchased at retail, but I could find no labels. I suspect that it was custom-made for a cool-weather wedding and the style really makes me think of some Wartime or Post-war bridal dresses I’ve discovered. Could also have been designed for some other special event . . . . .

Pretty mid-weight textured but glossy fabric which may be synthetic or a blend. Unusual long sleeves; but the best thing about this style is the collar. Each layer is carefully supported around the edge with wire so that it can be shaped by hand. I’ve very rarely seen this and it helped me to date the garment. It came from Australia so I may notice a British influence(?).

More semi-formal and long dresses coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEST EVER PANTS FIND – 1960’S BELL-BOTTOMS

dsc00696.jpg

I always have my eye out for great slacks like these, but they’re SO rare.  Love these late Sixties flares that are reminiscent of 1940’s women’s styles and sailors’ pants.  Such a treat to find slacks that fit like a glove.

The cut velour fabric is comfy but not too plush.  Good for wear in any cool weather (I like them most in Fall, of course) and also in a great neutral color; much more versatile than some of the wild prints from that time that are really Mod-cute but wearable with only one or two tops in the closet.

They’ll look great with that cheetah-print blouse from a few days ago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN ELEGANTLY-TAILORED BOHO FORMAL FROM THE LATE 1960’S (IS THAT AN OXYMORON?)

via AN ELEGANTLY-TAILORED BOHO FORMAL FROM THE LATE 1960’S (IS THAT AN OXYMORON?)

BEAUTIFUL SCOTTISH WORSTED WOOL POST-WAR SKIRT SUIT

This is a magnificent find, with all the beautiful tailoring details that I love on post-war suits and dresses.  Notice the notched cuffs, fabric-covered buttons, interesting pocket treatment, back belt, button trim, interesting collar lapels with little embroidered detail and, of course, the fabulous fitted shape.

It’s worth every minute I’ll spend on altering the size to fit me (a simple job, in spite of the professional tailoring).  No need to hire this job out, which is an extra bonus.  Someone loved it very much over the years.  Just one little, tiny moth nibble on the back of a sleeve and, otherwise, no damage or noticeable wear.  Another mother-lode treasure!  And, as always, for a mere pittance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

“NEW” ACQUISITIONS – TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY AND 1980’S RETRO FOOTWEAR

Just picked these up as curiosity items, in the case of the boots, and fashion finds in the case of the wedgie sandals.  Great additions to my collection!

Let’s start with the boots.  They look like Sixties style(?) and have old metal Robin zippers up the side.  Made for super-practicality, as most fashion rain-wear was back in the day, they are one-piece rubber construction.  Not meant to wear in your garden like English Wellies, these were street-wear for very wet (or snowy) days.  Waterproof below the zippers.  I just love these everyday examples of true vintage products’ sensible value. Nothing frivolous or impractical here, but with a nod to fashion, as well.

Next we go on to a 1980’s brand that I collect whenever I find them – Penaljo made some wonderful 1940’s – 1950’s retro sandals and I show my latest find (the grey ones) along with some I already had (the green and cork pair).  Just love these for summer – so wartime/I Love Lucy.  ADORE wedge heels – very cute with shirtwaist and sun-dresses, capri’ pants or skirts. Leather construction with good attention to detail.  Worth picking up.   So, we’re on a roll.  Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM