Category Archives: home-sewn

HERE COMES SANTA CLAUSE – AN EARLY 1960’S AT-HOME VELVET HOUSE DRESS

Perhaps appropriate for your intimate cocktail gathering with friends, but can you imagine anything more impractical than hosting a party wearing velvet and fur? Or dealing with Christmas morning craziness and food prep wearing this? No wonder it’s been packed away. Still, some home-based seamstress had a lot of fun planning and wearing this gown. It was the height of “fad-shion” and she must have felt like a queen. Good thing her sleeve didn’t get into the gravy or the baby’s diaper leak onto her lap.

No doubt this frock has a story but, after this short digression, it’s time to return to the LBD and it’s slightly-flashier cousins. We’ve moved into the late 1950’s – early 1960’s and it’s time to get back to some serious partying. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEATO! STELLA’S GOING TO THE HOP

What fun! Taking a break with friends from the regular Headquarters routine (but a Sleuth is a Sleuth 24/7) and what did I discover? This repro poodle circle skirt would be great for a costume anytime, but especially right about now. It was homemade, probably for exactly that purpose, so I’ll be donating it to the University theater but along with my FABULOUS find, it’s blog-worthy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Although I have some new-vintage re-do’s, an authentic pair of 1940’s – 1950’s saddle shoes has been on my radar for years. Look what I found!! In my size!!!

Spent yesterday afternoon wearing them around the house and they are SO comfortable. Older well-made footwear was built to last and usually fit well, too. Although these were just the daily, non-special go-to for teens and many adults and were undoubtedly moderately priced, the quality is built in. Even the messy polishing effort gives them the best street creds. I’m over the moon.

However, that wasn’t the end of the story. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S REPRODUCTION DRESS

Here’s a lovely frock made by an amateur (?) tailor with her own name label sewn in. The photos don’t do it justice – the tailoring is exceptional. No decoration – classic and elegant. Neckline is the focus, but the features of a post-war 1940’s New Look dressy frock are faithfully recreated – nipped waistline and the point at waist front, sweetheart neckline, very short sleeves and circle skirt. The fabric is a lush velvet.

So, I had to collect it when it showed up. More coming before we round out this decade. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

START OF A SERIES: TRUE VINTAGE PIECES FOR COOL, DRESSY EVENINGS

We’re now heading into the season for indoor parties, special occasions and events after the long, lovely summer; Cocktail parties, dinners, dances, recitals, holiday galas – you name it. I’ll be starting a series of posts of pretty, dressy and semi-formal garments in my collection from the 1950’s – 1990’s which will take us into the Fall and even Winter. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1960’S EARLY 1970’S BOHO HIPPIE JUMPSUIT

Here’s one of my favorite “just hanging – out” things to wear. What a find! Just perfect for “Indian Summer”. I know that old term isn’t correct anymore, but it’s very descriptive of the time of falling leaves, bonfires, harvest moons, cider and hayrides – all the traditional stuff from this autumn time of year. It’s still patio party season, too; fun to imagine the events where it was worn back in the day. The colors are just right as leaves begin to turn red and gold.

Love the pleated flounce at the bottoms of the legs! Lace-up bodices were a big thing at this time, too. Prairie style really got into it right around 1970. This fabric print is somewhere between psychedelic and ethnic, which looks more like a couple of years before that, but the styles kind of mooshed together then so it’s hard to say exactly. If the garment has a label, that helps. This one did not. Could have been home-sewn – lots of gals were still doing that then.

I’d wear these jumpsuit styles a lot if they weren’t so inconvenient!! Stay tuned as I pull out more of my Fall clothing (and there’s always the odd investigation)

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S LEISURE DRESSES – ALTERNATIVE STYLE FINDS THE MAINSTREAM

In the early 1960’s home-based seamstresses began making at-home leisure dresses. Velveteen was a popular fabric for hostess dresses that could work for cocktails with friends. An early flower-power dress in a traditional style was a more timid effort (looks like a vintage tablecloth) and a Mod print gown stepped firmly into the mid-decade. Washable cotton and blends made these easy-care garments and fashionable alternative styles for women who hadn’t been ready for 1950’s Boho or early ’60’s minis.

Tomorrow we’ll look at dresses from this genre that appeared later in the Sixties. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1950’S – MID-1960’S DRESSES

Late Fifties saw slinky knit sheath dresses that carried over the new, easy-care synthetics from the 1940’s. The prints morphed slowly from geometric, atomic shapes back to cute animals, fruits and veggies. This fabric is amazingly comfortable and drapes beautifully but was economical. Common, moderately-priced frocks were made from it.

Just a few years later, lace overlay became the big thing. Dressy day-dresses were often made from it, as well as semi-formal and formal gowns. These were also generally made from synthetic or blended fabrics but probably required dry-cleaning. Better frocks often came from British Hong Kong, where the design and hand-made tailoring made them exceptionally elegant and of higher quality. These dresses were still within the reach of middle-income ladies but were more expensive. See the black dressy sheath with a beaded over-blouse above. The straight black high-neck sheath came from Saks Fifth Avenue.

Then, again from the Brits, came Mary Quant’s Tent Dress in 1964. Although the Mod style had started in the 1950’s, it’s appearance in clothing was totally revolutionary. It brought with it radically shorter hemlines and easy-to-wear, casual shapes. See the light blue, home-sewn version above.

Some styles retained their classic, conservative lines and stuck to neutral or basic tones while bright colors became ever more popular, even in formal garments. While political and social movements became radicalized and changed society, the Hippie, Boho and Prairie styles started to take over in the late 1960’s and carried over into the early 1970’s. Tomorrow we’ll look at some of the ways that popular fashion incorporated these trends into mainstream dressing. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE WWII LADIES’ BLOUSE AND TOP TRENDS

These blouses and sweater all came from the war years spanning the late 1930’s to the very early 1950’s. The first blouse is a women’s-wear version of the Western-wear trend. Perfect for square-dancing. Gingham and sculpted plastic buttons were popular. This example might have been home-sewn by a skilled seamstress.

Cashmere cardigan sweaters also were seen worn as blouses, sometimes with the buttons in back if it were a plain knit. This trend was especially popular among co-eds. A beautifully-decorated one like that above would have been front-facing, of course. Pringle of Scotland was a known brand and higher-end.

Before and after rationing, lace and other embellishments on tops and dresses were very popular. Tailored styles were also made, but lots of the designs before and after the war were quite fussy with many details.

Tomorrow I’ll show my newest discoveries. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S CASUAL DRESSES

We’ll begin with a pretty, white cotton eyelet dress that was home-sewn in 1940. It’s a lovely dress for town or a picnic, but it was made to be a wedding dress. Coming off the Depression years and with war in Europe, it was a very modest but hopeful costume for entering a dream future.

After 1941 and the United States joined World War 2, fashion became much simpler and plainer, but very practical. Shirtwaist housedresses and day dresses were the general uniform for women who didn’t wear specific uniforms related to their work. Dancing, as well as movie-going, were common inexpensive activities that helped people escape the worries and fears of their daily lives. Separates became more popular. Knitwear and wider gored skirts allowed movement while jitterbug was the favorite dance of those young enough to do it.

Plastic “gems” appeared in costume jewelry pieces, as well as preserved natural leaves. Even during the Depression and Wartime, a little bling always lifted spirits and enhanced any outfit. Tomorrow I’ll cover a 1940’s casual fad that made fashion more interesting during that time. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM