Italian leather shoes and mid-century jewels! I’ll post the discoveries on the weekend. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
More from the 1970’s – 1990’s. Let’s start with the fabulous handbag. Remember that I mentioned Portugal in the last couple of posts? Well, this purse was handmade there. Likely, a traveler picked it up during her(?) trip since leather goods have been premier souvenir items from that country for decades. Look at the craftsmanship! Inside, it has convenient pockets and dividers and is a useful medium size with an adjustable shoulder strap. Pretty gold-tone hardware and my favorite feature: the clasp. This one reminds me of many unusual and crafty closures that are seen on purses from the 1940’s and 1950’s. The circular metal ring fits over the round metal knob and closes firmly with the hinged latch. Not locked, but tightly fastened. These ingenious and pretty hardware items always fascinate me!
During the investigation I also found this small card holder, meant for carrying business cards so no RFID protection required. It is simple, but luxurious. The leather is butter soft and the pouch is lined with a rayon-type fabric, all in perfect condition, Another lovely handbag accessory.
I’m always on the lookout for high quality belts and they are elusive, especially in my size. But, you just never know and look what turned up! Super simple in it’s style. Classic, elegant embossed basket-weave design that adds a bit of interest but won’t be a distraction. 100% leather with a buckle that is probably brass. Sometimes I find them stamped as brass on the underside. That means strong, with no corrosion. Another find in near-perfect condition – just right for jeans, slacks or for cinching a sweater or jacket. Perfect for Fall (yes, it’s coming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned.)
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Practically “new”; just a little corrosion on the metal parts. I couldn’t pass this up since it is an iconic true vintage personal item. This fine accessory is an example of a key case style that had been made for decades and decades, mostly before the 1970’s. Always in leather, and with a simple fold-over design and with these little metal hooks that can hold old-style car keys, house keys, post office box key, storage box key, office key, etc,, etc. I’ve seen many of them, and they’re always a good clue – especially if the keys are still present. . . . . . . . . . . . .
The design is meant to lie flat when the keys are tucked inside, so best for a pocket only. That’s why I have always guessed that it’s mostly a men’s accessory. When other types of more modern and prettier key-rings were not available, though, one of these could tuck securely into a lady’s handbag and they do allow the owner to carry all their important keys in one tidy place. Many of them, like this one, contained a card on which the owner could write their name and address in case the keys were lost. Often, people ignored these and they were still left tucked inside.
It’s another example of the elegant and high-quality items that our ancestors owned and used almost every day. I just never know what might turn up. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Let’s start with a deja’ vu item (for me) – I call it this because I discovered a nearly identical one and posted it just two weeks ago! However, the exciting thing is the different clues involved in their stories. Always SO interesting! Plus, one new item which is a rare find and always makes me do an extra happy dance. . . . . . . .. . . . . ..
Oh, Ho hum you may say. Another black cocktail clutch. Yes, I have many of these in my case archives (and closet), but each one is unique in some way. The fun thing about this one is the similarities to the other one recently found; 1. Both are rectangular and designed to be hand-held. 2. Both are made of black rayon satin. 3. Both have hand-done beading on the front AND back. 4. Both have an additional pocket (or two) inside. 5. Both are from the mid-century, probably post-WWII.
HOWEVER, the one found two weeks ago is more finely made. It was constructed in Hong Kong (while it was still British Hong Kong) while this one above was probably made in North America but is an iconic brand name (Soure’). The first found has more elaborate beading on the front. It is a sac design with no stiffening and simply folds over to close, while this one has stiffening between the layers, probably some form of cardboard, and a metal snap closure (more common and less elegant). These clues lead me to decide that the first find is 10 – 20 years older even though they are so similar. Investigations are so fun! You can check out the previous post and see what I mean.
The final item, just found, is the one that really gives me happy feet – see the little coin purse? I LOVE FINDING THESE!!!!! Not too many of them exist anymore and they are SO convenient and iconic inside a true vintage handbag. This one, also, is navy blue rather than black. It will definitely have a home in one of my purses at Headquarters.
OK, that’s the first of my recent deja’ vu finds, but there is another one which I will put in a separate post because it is in a different category – Men’s true vintage accessories! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
A wonderful authentic Lily blouse from the 1970’s! I was out and about dropping off a charity donation and found this beautiful shirt. Such a surprise; I have several other Lily blouses in my closet, from the 1960’s but haven’t seen one during an investigation for a long time. These lovely shirts were a mid-century staple. The signature fabric is so soft and airy, the pretty embroidery done so well. Most older ones had monochromatic Asian-inspired designs. This one is similar to colorful Latin American indigenous designs, which became more popular in the early 1970’s.
I love the old-style sizing on these blouses and am thrilled that it is in a size I can wear – just about a modern size 2(which would be perfect for Stella, as well. I certainly miss her when I’m not at Headquarters. See her modeling work in many previous posts). It also has double-button cuffs, which is another late 1960’s – early 1970’s tailoring detail, AND a button and loop at the neckline which can be fastened to lessen gaping there, if you want to. True vintage garments almost always have such excellent tailoring and, despite it’s age, I see no signs of wear. The previous owner may have washed it by hand, which would be so easy to do, and avoided the wear and tear of traditional machine washing. So, this lovely won’t be going to eBay or Etsy!!
I also found another true vintage item in pristine condition, which I will post tomorrow. I’m a Satisfied Sleuther!! Just goes to show that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Through the decades the changes in style are often subtle, but they’re noticeable if your sleuthing trade skills are sharp. One thing that all these dresses have in common is excellent quality. I showed several dresses of this genre which were made in the Victorian/Prairie style when covering 1970’s Prom dresses a couple of months ago. Early in that decade, girls sometimes wore them to the Prom but they were usually fussier with lace and more details. Jessica McClintock of Gunne Sax styled them for at least 20 – 30 years. Labels always help, of course, but aren’t always present. The condition of all these examples is near-perfect, which can make the job a easier, though tell-tale signs of wear can sometimes be very helpful clues. Let’s start from left to right:
A Prairie-style gown, pretty and modest in cotton. Looks like it was made for retail because of the precise tailoring detail, but there is no label. I would put it in the 1970’s but it could possibly have been made later by an individual expert or a company that catered to a niche market which preferred very modest styles of dress.
A red and white plaid gown that picks up on the Prairie style, but in a much more casual, carefree design reminiscent of the 1960’s. It’s probably made from cotton but I can’t be sure without the file in front of me and it could be cotton/poly blend. It was made in the 1980’s in West Germany. This is an example of trends jumping the oceans, usually years after they originally appeared in the Western nations. Although they’ve done their own take on the style, it’s exceptionally well-made, as goods from West Germany have always tended to be, in my experience.
A black and white floral print gown made in Hawaii. This one is from the 1980’s, give or take a decade and is the most elegant. Same deal about the fabric as in the previous dress. The style is pure average conservative, which makes it harder to date exactly. A pretty dress, but nothing distinctive about it excepting for excellent tailoring. It might have been a wardrobe item of someone who lived in Hawaii, purchased at a specialty shop stateside which carried Hawaiian garments or by someone who bought it while on vacation. Hawaiian-made gowns have been popular with women worldwide since the 1950’s, but earlier ones were usually made in more traditional Hawaiian style and, often, of Hawaiian fabric with traditional island prints. The more mainstream universal designs like this one came later.
The final dress is from the 1990’s. Always harder for me to think of as true vintage, but it is worthy because of the good tailoring, 100% cotton fabric and the retail designer label sold by a high-end department store in New York City. It’s got pedigree. Again, nothing notable about the style but it is very well-cut, which can make a world of difference in terms of how a dress fits. That’s one feature of even plain, rather boring vintage clothing items that can make them worth collecting and wearing. The style can always be elevated by adding accessories but one thing that always elevates any garment is how well it is made and how well it fits.
Tomorrow I’ll be showing a collection of dressy day-wear accessories from the 1960’s that fit the category of well-made, classic and designer items that can “make” an outfit. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
The Seventies, Eighties and Nineties produced a lot of popular retail styles that imitated 1940’s designs. Some were very well done and others not so much, to be charitable. As I’ve said, it’s hard for me to call these decades true vintage but, technically, they are. The two purses echoing shapes and tapestry design popular in the Forties might have shown up in the 1960’s.
All of these could be fun and the reproduction details became best during the mid-1980’s but, unfortunately, modern polyester fabrics and production techniques lowered the quality a lot. No valid comparison, in my opinion, to true vintage from the 1940’s – even the home-sewn versions that were made from older clothing during rationing.
Of this group, the best-made is the black velveteen custom-tailored frock from the 1980’s or 1990’s. It was made by an expert seamstress and is worthy of being called a reproduction in the Post-war New Look style. The retail day-dresses are versatile and the prints are great – pretty faithful to authentic ones that I’ve come across. I always love the padded shoulders and cinched waistlines that are very flattering but were also a nod to the style of military uniforms. Jumpsuits were just for fun in the Seventies, but always are inconvenient. I suspect that the jumpsuits worn by women working in the war effort during the Forties had drop seats, which makes it a little bit better. I do have a pair of high-waisted slacks from the ’40’s that have an ingeniously-designed drop seat that looks quite good.
So, these clues were fun to find and seemed worthy of collection though I always prefer the real deal. Speaking of which, I just came across another archived file of true vintage 1940’s dresses which I will show tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
The 1970’s was far from a stellar fashion decade, as far as I’m concerned, but it did include several signature trends. Seventies does Forties, Boho/Prairie, polyester knit pantsuits and dresses (including men’s leisure suits), long pointy collars and animal prints were the predominant ones. The garments shown above are all from the early part of the decade. Psychedelic prints still showed up. Flower power still had a moment. Disco glitz was queen in the late 1970’s. Virtually everything was made of polyester fabric.
Carly Simon wore a hat similar to the one above on her first album cover in 1971 or 2 and it became instantly trendy. 1940’s styles, especially the tailoring details and medium-size shoulder pads, became really popular. Look at the trims on the short sleeved blouses. They are very ’40’s-looking. See the high waist and full legs on the slacks – women’s pants of the 1940’s were mostly made this way. An exception was Western-wear slacks, which tended to be slimmer.
The most-worn styles included platform shoes and jumpsuits in a big way. Military personnel and working women made jumpsuit uniforms visible during wartime and they became part of trendy fashion. The example above is from the early 1970’s. I have found and enjoyed wearing all of these designs. There are many photos in the files, but I can’t display them all at once. Some 1940’s styles popped up again in the 1980’s and I’ll show a few tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
I’m definitely in the mood to look at some pretty Spring lingerie, although it won’t keep us as warm. The 1970’s RED velour robe by Vanity Fair is an exception, but I had to include it for St. Valentine’s Day.
A floral heavy cotton housecoat robe from the 1930’s with big sculpted buttons was a fabulous find! See how it compares when we jump to the 1950’s, 1960’s and 1970’s. Double-layer nylon peignoirs and gowns began to appear in the Forties and there were some beautiful ones in silk during the Thirties and Forties before WWII rationing disrupted all of that. Lots of great synthetic materials were developed during this time, however, and the 1950’s nylon used for sleepwear and slips is fabulous! Thick, glossy and still silky to the touch, it could be found into the 1960’s and very early 1970’s but since then has mostly been replaced by cheaper, poorer quality fabric that doesn’t feel or look the same and is definitely inferior.
Until then, we had this wonderful nylon that can be dyed in bright colors, lasts forever and feels like heaven on the body. Lingerie from this time also included beautiful tailoring and details like lace and embroidery which was high quality and didn’t come loose. Tiny pearlized plastic or fabric-covered buttons and satin ribbon were also common. That’s why these garments still look and feel so beautiful 50 – 70 years later!
This marvelous nylon was also used to make lingerie slips, of course, and women bought a gazillion of them while day dresses were still the standard outfit for daily wear. When we go back to looking at day dresses through the decades, I will be opening an archive of beautiful slips, too. First, I think our mid-century gal is getting back from her vacation tomorrow so we will see what she bought at the beach and start the dresses review afterward. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Okay. A couple days ago she packed her swimsuit for the pool and the beach, short shorts and cute top and a skort for casual day play and sightseeing. Good start. Today she’ll concentrate on more sporty day outfits that will take advantage of the tennis court and boardwalk as well as lots of other fun activities.
Can’t forget her 1950’s play-suit! Love the funky drums motif and the cropped top. Very original. This one isn’t a romper – it will even let her go downtown after the badminton game. Can’t forget the matching Keds. When it’s time to go to the dining room, a simple wrap skirt from the ’60’s/’70’s is very appropriate and her cute handbag goes well with all outfits so far!! The white sleeveless top that she packed already is perfect with it. That’s the secret of great packing – mix and match. Oh, yeah – GOT to take her roller skates !!!!! Yes, they’re heavy but gotta have them.
All right. That’s enough for today. Packing always makes her tired with so many decisions and it’s easy to forget something important if she doesn’t take her time. Good choices so far, but there’s still more to do over the next few days. Stay tuned . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Magicvintagespy 