I love my cotton skirt and vest set from the late 1970’s. The style had a real moment then and this one is by Mr. Leonard, which was a leading manufacturer of women’s clothing from 1965 until it’s closing in 1999. Cool and casual makes it perfect for September while we’re still having warm days but are in the mood for Autumn colors. It’s pretty easy to dress up or down for daytime, too. Looks just as great with a classic blouse or a t-shirt.
The nicest thing is the quality. Nice fabric, well-constructed. The vest is fully lined with a dark green fabric that keeps it’s shape and minimizes wear. Despite it’s age, it looks almost new. That’s probably my favorite thing about true vintage clothing and accessories, second only to the fabulous style and elegance.
This one couldn’t be more different than the Boho outfit I posted two days ago! Looks like it might have been worn to a 4th of July country club event. Very prissy and proper. It’s from the 1970’s and was made by a well-known women’s clothing company – possibly Jonathan Logan. I can’t remember the label because I sold it on eBay right away – NOT my style. However, it was a good example of the jumpsuit evolution and worth collecting.
Aside from the utilitarian work uniform that Rosie the Riveter wore in the 1940’s, jumpsuits (cute as they are) are not in the least bit practical. One nice thing is that the fit can be sleek and slim – no need to tuck in a shirt or top – but anyone who’s worn one knows that they are very inconvenient. There were some cute ones in the early 1970’s when Seventies did Forties but after a couple of evenings bar-hopping, gals often decided to leave them in the drawer and go for their Chic jeans instead. But, we didn’t learn our lesson because they showed up again in the early 1980’s when the Forties were revisited. Then I was horrified to find that, especially for dress-up nights, some designers came up with truly ugly ones in knits and velvets in the 1990’s#@*!! Can you imagine going to an event and wrestling with that in the washroom all evening with the hem dragging on the floor? Forget it! This is a style that I hope we don’t see again.
So, the tide turned today when I discovered a lovely mid-century piece that I can’t wait to show you. Not going to give it away now, but I will be posting it tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Here’s one of my favorite “just hanging – out” things to wear. What a find! Just perfect for “Indian Summer”. I know that old term isn’t correct anymore, but it’s very descriptive of the time of falling leaves, bonfires, harvest moons, cider and hayrides – all the traditional stuff from this autumn time of year. It’s still patio party season, too; fun to imagine the events where it was worn back in the day. The colors are just right as leaves begin to turn red and gold.
Love the pleated flounce at the bottoms of the legs! Lace-up bodices were a big thing at this time, too. Prairie style really got into it right around 1970. This fabric print is somewhere between psychedelic and ethnic, which looks more like a couple of years before that, but the styles kind of mooshed together then so it’s hard to say exactly. If the garment has a label, that helps. This one did not. Could have been home-sewn – lots of gals were still doing that then.
I’d wear these jumpsuit styles a lot if they weren’t so inconvenient!! Stay tuned as I pull out more of my Fall clothing (and there’s always the odd investigation)
So many mid-century gals had a similar coat when John F. Kennedy was president. This one is a well-made daily-wear style that goes with almost anything. It has a rayon satin lining that doesn’t make it too warm in mild weather, but I have seen and own examples with pile liners which usually zip out. Quality mid-century clothing was ingenious, stylish and practical.
Although 3/4 sleeves might seem awkward on a coat, they were a BIG fashion feature at that time and look SO GREAT with gloves that are longer. It’s always worth collecting true vintage gloves that are almost elbow-length; not the kind that are worn with evening dresses, but beautiful, tailored gloves of vintage kidskin. Knitted or cloth gloves would also work with this jacket in a casual mood because it’s so versatile. I love it here with my 1980’s Western-style suede skirt.
Huge plastic buttons were also a common feature on coats from the years before and after 1960 and would often give major giveaways about the garment. In general, the quality of the buttons reflected the overall quality of the coat. Detailed, sculpted buttons were very interesting and showed that a coat was not a bargain item. Sometimes they even had inlaid pieces of different colors or faux gems like “pearls” or rhinestones. A dressy coat might have buttons like that even though the coat style was very tailored. In this case, you see tailored elegance on a mid-priced garment that would last for many years.
I love Fall and, since the weather is changing, I’ll have to trot out a lot of clothing that has been in storage – maybe even open some of the archives . .. . …. . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
More from the 1970’s – 1990’s. Let’s start with the fabulous handbag. Remember that I mentioned Portugal in the last couple of posts? Well, this purse was handmade there. Likely, a traveler picked it up during her(?) trip since leather goods have been premier souvenir items from that country for decades. Look at the craftsmanship! Inside, it has convenient pockets and dividers and is a useful medium size with an adjustable shoulder strap. Pretty gold-tone hardware and my favorite feature: the clasp. This one reminds me of many unusual and crafty closures that are seen on purses from the 1940’s and 1950’s. The circular metal ring fits over the round metal knob and closes firmly with the hinged latch. Not locked, but tightly fastened. These ingenious and pretty hardware items always fascinate me!
During the investigation I also found this small card holder, meant for carrying business cards so no RFID protection required. It is simple, but luxurious. The leather is butter soft and the pouch is lined with a rayon-type fabric, all in perfect condition, Another lovely handbag accessory.
I’m always on the lookout for high quality belts and they are elusive, especially in my size. But, you just never know and look what turned up! Super simple in it’s style. Classic, elegant embossed basket-weave design that adds a bit of interest but won’t be a distraction. 100% leather with a buckle that is probably brass. Sometimes I find them stamped as brass on the underside. That means strong, with no corrosion. Another find in near-perfect condition – just right for jeans, slacks or for cinching a sweater or jacket. Perfect for Fall (yes, it’s coming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned.)
Love, love, love!!!!! Most likely from the 1980’s – maybe the 1990’s. Always one of my favorite finds (they fit!!!!!), and definitely keepers that will serve me well forever. These boots were made in Brazil of lovely, soft leather. The clues abound regarding their excellent pedigree:
1. The craftsmanship is exquisite: even, strong stitching with high quality elastic gussets that have held their shape and stretch. Notice the nice little tab at the back which looks good but also provides a gripping place to pull the boots on comfortably, without stretching that would pull them out of shape.
2. The soles and heels look very much like leather, which is always a plus because it can be repaired by a skilled shoemaker or shoe-repair technician, but instead are made of the wonderful Vibram-type material which came later in the mid-century and is virtually indestructible. The finish eventually wears off the soles but they don’t wear down as quickly as leather. Repair and replacement are hardly ever needed.
3, The heels are so well-crafted that they have the look of stacked leather, though they probably are not(?)
4. The Granny-style of the heels was fashionable at the time these were made but the overall design is perfectly classic and elegant. Despite the heel style these boots are wearable with most clothing types without looking dated and will continue to be in the future.
This investigation proved not only the age, origin and construction details of these boots, but also strong clues as to what class of person owned and wore them as well as the type of vendor which sold them originally. Although modern technology would allow a greater depth of detailed knowledge to be ascertained in a laboratory, I will leave those tasks to the forensic teams. For my purposes, the investigation is perfect and ends here, in my closet.
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As I’ve said before, I don’t support the markets for any type of animal skins (including fur) by buying newly-made products that involve the raising, hunting and slaughter of the animals who provide them. I also avoid products made from wool, down and other feathers and silk, which also involve animal cruelty. Collecting beautiful true vintage artifacts easily satisfies my curiosity and fulfills my needs.
As the marketplace continues to offer more alternatives, my diet and toiletries are always vegetarian and vegan whenever possible. Excellent alternatives to most products are available and the prices are constantly coming down. Now that cruelty-free hard goods (not food or other things that will spoil) have been in the marketplace for a few years, it’s increasingly possible to find them in places where previously used items are sold or traded. True vintage items may not have been made with an ethical mentality, but they don’t contribute to cruelty and abuse in the present. Secondhand purchases don’t give money to current unethical manufacturing processes or the people who sell them either, as long as you are not buying from the original producer or vendor. And, the older things are, the better the quality in most cases. What could be better?
This is just the beginning of my posts of recent discoveries. More are coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .
I’m always delighted to find a New Wave early 1980’s piece in beautiful condition. The shadow lines seen in the photo are just a reflection from the glossy surface. This black silk satin evening bag with a gold-tone geometric chain handle was made in Italy and sold by Holt Renfrew, a luxury department store in Canada. It’s very sleek and slim – a great example of the genre. Wouldn’t you know, I have a black leather cinch belt with gold edging from 1980 – perfect match!
Another little coin purse was found at the same location. It’s vinyl from the 1950’s or, more likely, the early 1960’s. Durable and cute, but cheap and hardly elegant. Why did I bother to collect this? Well, if you carry true vintage handbags regularly, you know that although some of the best ones had little matching coin purses tucked inside and attached by a cord, the majority had no secure place to carry coins. That always had to come from a separate coin purse or a ladies’ wallet which had a coin purse inside (or her escort’s pocket). Wallets like that were rarely, if ever, made for women before the late 1950’s and early 1960’s, in my experience. I wonder if that had anything to do with women’s ability to manage their own money? But, I digress . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fortunately, that’s one thing we can more or less take for granted now and I don’t like hunting in the bottom of a handbag or in a pocket for change. Much less do I like to mend holes in the bottoms of pockets that have been abused that way. Therefore, handy purse accessories are always at the top of my list when I’m investigating. And sometimes, the most interesting clues can be found inside. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Practically “new”; just a little corrosion on the metal parts. I couldn’t pass this up since it is an iconic true vintage personal item. This fine accessory is an example of a key case style that had been made for decades and decades, mostly before the 1970’s. Always in leather, and with a simple fold-over design and with these little metal hooks that can hold old-style car keys, house keys, post office box key, storage box key, office key, etc,, etc. I’ve seen many of them, and they’re always a good clue – especially if the keys are still present. . . . . . . . . . . . .
The design is meant to lie flat when the keys are tucked inside, so best for a pocket only. That’s why I have always guessed that it’s mostly a men’s accessory. When other types of more modern and prettier key-rings were not available, though, one of these could tuck securely into a lady’s handbag and they do allow the owner to carry all their important keys in one tidy place. Many of them, like this one, contained a card on which the owner could write their name and address in case the keys were lost. Often, people ignored these and they were still left tucked inside.
It’s another example of the elegant and high-quality items that our ancestors owned and used almost every day. I just never know what might turn up. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
While I’m missing Stella (my fabulous vintage mannequin model), please use your imagination to visualize how fun and flattering this mini-dress or tunic looks when it’s on. Without my honed sleuthing skills, I never would have found it and am so glad that I did. As a mini-dress (if you don’t mind the side slits showing your whole leg almost to the hip) it’s really cute and calls for a 1960’s/’70’s chain belt to finish it off. As a swimsuit cover-up or beach dress it would be perfect – cool, crisp and lightweight while giving some reasonable sun protection. Over a pair of skinny white pants or shorts I LOVE IT!! Also love the elbow-length sleeves and unusually-shaped neckline.
How do I know it’s from Europe? The size label tells me. How do I know that it’s true vintage? By my guesstimate, a European size 42 would always be too big for me, but I look great in this whether worn as a mini-dress or a tunic over pants. So, the cut seems to be smaller than a modern garment of that size would be. This is always tricky with international sizing, but I think I’m correct. The fabric is a nicely-woven cotton with some weight (but not too much for Summer) and all-over floral embroidery – similar to vintage fabrics that are almost never seen now. Also, the interior tailoring is different from what I find on modern garments. Not fine tailoring, because this is a very simple garment and probably sold at a lower price. However, some of the finishing is remarkable – if it did not have a size label, I might say that it had been home-sewn. It has darts in back to give it extra fit and style. The size label, printed rather than embroidered, is sewn in at the back neckline and there are no other tags at all.
All right, the verdict is in. This dress is probably from the 1970’s, give or take 5 years. Allowances have to be made for the overseas manufacture. Whatever it’s exact heritage, it’s wonderful and I will really enjoy it. I love solving mysteries but an open-ended investigation is always intriguing. Who knows – sometimes I solve a cold case years later! You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
A wonderful authentic Lily blouse from the 1970’s! I was out and about dropping off a charity donation and found this beautiful shirt. Such a surprise; I have several other Lily blouses in my closet, from the 1960’s but haven’t seen one during an investigation for a long time. These lovely shirts were a mid-century staple. The signature fabric is so soft and airy, the pretty embroidery done so well. Most older ones had monochromatic Asian-inspired designs. This one is similar to colorful Latin American indigenous designs, which became more popular in the early 1970’s.
I love the old-style sizing on these blouses and am thrilled that it is in a size I can wear – just about a modern size 2(which would be perfect for Stella, as well. I certainly miss her when I’m not at Headquarters. See her modeling work in many previous posts). It also has double-button cuffs, which is another late 1960’s – early 1970’s tailoring detail, AND a button and loop at the neckline which can be fastened to lessen gaping there, if you want to. True vintage garments almost always have such excellent tailoring and, despite it’s age, I see no signs of wear. The previous owner may have washed it by hand, which would be so easy to do, and avoided the wear and tear of traditional machine washing. So, this lovely won’t be going to eBay or Etsy!!
I also found another true vintage item in pristine condition, which I will post tomorrow. I’m a Satisfied Sleuther!! Just goes to show that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Magicvintagespy 