TRUE VINTAGE HOME-SEWN LATE 1960’S – EARLY 1970’S ANSWER TO THE LBD

OK, now we find ourselves in about 1968 – 1972. Culture has changed big-time since 1963. Before the Prairie-style trend of the early – mid 1970’s, there was a heavy swing to Medieval and Edwardian style with lots of crushed velvet, panne’ velvet, pirate sleeves, ruffled cuffs and braided trim. This little black dress which was made at home has most of those features, plus a mini hemline and an elasticized waistline but otherwise is styled more like a tunic. No embellishment excepting for the gold braid around the neckline. Hardly a cocktail dress. I’m guessing that some teen girl might have worn it to her high school homecoming dance.

Fashion follows culture and history. The neat, feminine and careful tailoring of the 1940’s – early 1960’s kind of went out the window in favor of looser silhouettes and flowing skirts. Some commercially-produced dresses were less casual but younger women tended to prefer the bohemian look. As often happens, the Prairie style that followed in the early 1970’s, with its long skirts, tight bodices and cinched waists was a reactionary swing toward conservatism that entered pop culture under the radar. Most women didn’t realize that popular fashion reflected a wish to put women back into a social role from the past. However, some women got it. During the early 1970’s there was also a style trend toward 1940’s fashion – a time when women broke out of traditional roles to enter the workplace as part of the war effort during WW2. Remember Rosie the Riveter.

The push for women’s equal rights made great strides during the decade of the 1970’s. But, we now know that those gains may have made us complacent and that we can’t afford to be.

Tomorrow we’ll visit the 1980’s and explore these clues a little farther. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL AND FUN – TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY COCKTAIL PARTY COAT OF TWO COLORS

Surprising and bright! In a vivid green between Kelly and emerald, with a lovely turquoise lining. Really lets her make an entrance. This coat is from the same era of the decade change 1950’s to 1960’s. Open front with a collar that grabs all the attention and elbow-length sleeves. The fabric is a glossy jacquard weave which was so popular at that time.

This style also had its moment. I have discovered two, exactly the same. Just perfect over a little black dress. The tailoring is everything, which is the secret sauce in true vintage garments which makes them stand out over anything modern. The following decades – 1970’s onward – were a little disappointing but still had their own signatures. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LATE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S VELVET ALL-WEATHER COAT

Here’s a beautiful and versatile coat from the Kennedy era – an iconic style that I’ve encountered 3 times. These were sold as “all-weather” coats. Seems like it had a moment back in the day. The collar is its stand-out feature, as well as big covered buttons. Looks very luxe but the fabric is actually a synthetic velvet or velveteen which can repel some moisture and keeps its shape no matter the weather. Mid-weight with an acetate lining provides some warmth and coverage over a dressy frock. Perfect for wearing on the way to a cocktail party.

Actually, this coat is wearable for dress-up or a sophisticated shopping trip. Moderately-priced elegance. Most common color was black, but I have discovered emerald green, as well. Sometimes the lining is black, sometimes a contrasting color. Easy care and durable. This one will serve me for decades. Tomorrow I’ll show another with a very different character. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-1960’s BLACK JACQUARD ASIAN-STYLE LBD

Since the Post-war 1950’s, interest in Asian-style dresses (and other garments) has grown, with pretty sheaths like this one creeping into women’s closets. Clothing made in British Hong Kong established a reputation for being exceptionally well-made. Tailors from China, principally, expanded their clientele and any city’s Chinatown was a great place to shop. Silk and hand-decorated versions are always the most beautiful, but all these clothes tend to be well-made, often with hand-done finishing. Because of their persistent fashionable presence, excellent quality and traditional design they can be categorized as Classic clothing. Though they are mass-produced now, versions from the 1960’s were still of high quality.

This little dress was made to sell, simply-designed with a center back metal zipper, moderately priced and styled to the then-current fad for mandarin collars and mini-skirt hems. It’s free of embroidered design, but the jacquard fabric is glossy and woven with an Asian medallion motif. Just right for making an entrance to a casual mid-Sixties cocktail party.

I’m wrapping up the cocktail LBDs for the 1960’s decade with this cutie. Tomorrow I’ll begin showing some dressy coats that would be just right with most of them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER FABULOUS FIND FROM THE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S ERA

Though sometimes referred to as an accessory, beautiful lingerie slips used to be a primary part of a woman’s wardrobe worn almost every day. They used to be frequent finds during my investigations. In the recent years, that’s become less and less true but my radar is always tuned. On a rack containing several slips which looked very much the same I spotted one which was different.

With closer examination, I found that the hardware on the straps was metal rather than plastic. The lace trim was applique’ed on top of the fabric rather than being stitched into seams. The sheer panels at the neckline are absolutely different from any seen on newer pieces. When I felt the nylon material, although it looked almost exactly like the others, the feel was completely different – heavier, smoother. These clues told me that I had found a slip from the 1950’s or very early 1960’s. The length is also a reliable clue – below the knee on tall Stella is almost midi-length on a woman of average height. Unfortunately, all the tags had been removed but the quality is the proof. Finding a black slip is a plus, too, because the majority were white or occasionally beige. Finding a pretty pastel or a bright color is also wonderful and, now, rare. The decoration on these pieces is always superior and absolutely beautiful. (The photos could be better, but I’ve always found it difficult to capture details on black garments).

So, naturally, I was over the moon and it rounded out my successful sleuthing investigation very nicely. There is one more discovery from this episode to show you but I will return to the Cocktail circuit to finish the 1960’s first. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RARE TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S – 1960’S ACCESSORY FIND

During my very recent investigation I also discovered this fabulous belt that excites me to no end! Because of the markings inside, I am confident that it is probably from the 1950’s or early 1960’s, perhaps as an accessory to a size 10 dress. Better yet, it fits me!

The belt is in fabulous shape. I don’t believe that it is made of patent leather, but of a good quality vinyl from that era. It will look great on any dress and I can see it on a pair of cigarette pants, too, since most from that era would be high-waisted. The elegance and shine adds to any party or dressy outfit. The biggest reason that this find thrills me, aside from what I’ve already said, is it’s rarity. Finding great belts from this era is not common! Scarves, purses and jewelry have fared a little better over the years but belts receive more wear and often simply disappear.

So, thank the Universe and congratulations to me. In this photo the iconic 1960’s wool boucle’ fabric of the dress in yesterday’s post is seen in much better detail. Tomorrow I’ll show another wardrobe “accessory” that I found that same day – also becoming rare. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS FIND! A PRETTY KENNEDY ERA 2-PIECE DRESS IN BOUCLE’ WOOL

It’s Oh, so Jackie O! Everything about this pretty 2-piece dress is iconic. Wool boucle’ in pastel colors was very big during the early 1960’s. I have discovered at least 3 skirt suits made of this material. Usually it’s in Easter egg tones, but this pale mustard yellow is not out of sync. The collar and bow on the bodice alone give away its timeline, the skirt is straight but not pencil and has the modest below-the-knee length hem,, the blouse is gently-fitted .and the full-length metal zipper center in the back of the top is also common in this era.

This is a simple and elegant design which could have been home-sewn, as many were, but it has a maker’s label which I don’t recognize. It’s very well-made. Both pieces are fully-lined, the button on the skirt’s waistline in back is fabric-covered and there is a spare button attached inside! One clue is a little unusual in a commercially-made garment:: the skirt has a center back zipper of nylon instead of metal. Hmm . . . . . not likely this was original – probably the skirt zipper had been replaced. That wouldn’t be unusual because of the stress in the hip area that often causes zippers to break.

Not a top-of-the-line piece, but a very nice one and a perfect example of its era. I was thrilled to discover it! . I’ve got a few more new finds in this time-capsule to show before we step back on the LBD train. Put on your pillbox hat and gloves and stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MOD 1960’S COCKTAIL SHEATH DRESS BY CAROL CRAIG

Here we’ve got a black crepe sheath, gently fitted with a band of op-art bling at the hemline. Notice that the hemline has become shorter than in the previous examples. Although it’s obviously a cocktail party style, there’s nothing dressy here excepting the band of sequins. Classic and simple – could cautiously be described as elegant on that account – but seems pretty “ho-hum” to me though we have to remember that in 1964 or so this would have been seen as fashion-forward in a mid-priced dress.

Carol Craig was a mid-century division of the Loma Dress company and designed moderately-priced frocks in Misses sizes during the 1950’s and 1960’s. In my experience, they’re not “cream-of-the-crop” but very nice and stylish for the time; worth collecting. I’ll see about showing my “new” 1960’s finds from yesterday before getting back onto the LBD and cocktail circuit. Stay tuned . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY’

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS “NEW” TRUE VINTAGE FINDS TODAY!

Wowee!! Had to go out today to an administrative meeting. Afterward, I did an investigation in a known location which often has provided clues. No disappointments there! Two more fabulous 1960’s garments were discovered, though not of the Little Black Dress variety. I will show them soon – either as a divergence from our current walk through LBD decades, or after it’s finished. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S LBD FROM SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

Definitely a conservative, go-almost-anywhere style but with an upper-mid-level pedigree as it has a Saks Fifth Avenue label (take my word for it). The hemline still hovers below the knee, but we see a stand collar, which is becoming more popular on ’60’s dresses and tops. The sequin trim on the collar and skirt defines it as a semi-formal cocktail design. Though you wouldn’t be likely to turn many heads on your entrance to the party, that’s exactly the impression that many upper class women have wanted to make, especially in the Mid-West (and this dress likely came from Saks in Chicago).

Excellent tailoring, as would be expected, and perfectly classic in design. The aristocratic heritage is what makes this evidence collectible. Moving ahead into the mid-’60’s we’ll lighten up a little. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM