1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – VINTAGE LADIES CLASSIC SHIRT WITH EXCEPTIONAL TAILORING

This blouse was worth collecting. I immediately recognized the fine cotton fabric and exceptional tailoring detail, worthy of mid-century ladies shirts though I suspect that this one was made in the 1980’s or ’90’s. The most interesting features are the French cuffs and the distinctively-shaped wing collar. Nicely fitted with front and back darts and a finished, straight hem. The seams are incredibly neat and overcast so carefully that they will stay strong for many years. They have also been reasonably well-matched. Little cufflinks are made from matching buttons but, of course, you could substitute any pair of cufflinks that you own. It’s also nice to see dyed-to-match buttons in a true vintage style as well as a covered-button placket construction, though these are not as unusual.

It’s always a thrill for me to find a garment made to these exacting standards. Finding one in any retail establishment, even lots of expensive ones, is rare. Just had to show you these recent finds but tomorrow we’ll return to the 1940’s and Post-WWII era. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RARE NEW FIND! 1940’S DRESSY VELVETEEN JACKET

Nothing wonky about this jacket. It just needs a good clean and steam. Plus, I wish my team of models were with me as it would look so much better on Stella, maybe over a dressy 1940’s frock as it was intended for. Use your imagination. Anyway, I love, love it! Anything from this fashion decade thrills me, but a piece like this is so difficult to find and such a wardrobe necessity. Gals in the 1940’s often wore a fur stole or jacket with their evening outfits but, since we don’t do that anymore unless it’s a true vintage piece, a formal alternative is so important.

Probably handmade, from cotton velveteen. No lining, but none needed – the reverse side of the velveteen is a very smooth weave. Great peplum waist, a little longer in the back, and a big button to close. 3/4 sleeves with scalloped vents. Love this detail, too.

I’m over the moon and, as I always say -“You just never know” what might turn up. I’ll post my second find, exciting in a different way, tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE WWII LADIES’ BLOUSE AND TOP TRENDS

These blouses and sweater all came from the war years spanning the late 1930’s to the very early 1950’s. The first blouse is a women’s-wear version of the Western-wear trend. Perfect for square-dancing. Gingham and sculpted plastic buttons were popular. This example might have been home-sewn by a skilled seamstress.

Cashmere cardigan sweaters also were seen worn as blouses, sometimes with the buttons in back if it were a plain knit. This trend was especially popular among co-eds. A beautifully-decorated one like that above would have been front-facing, of course. Pringle of Scotland was a known brand and higher-end.

Before and after rationing, lace and other embellishments on tops and dresses were very popular. Tailored styles were also made, but lots of the designs before and after the war were quite fussy with many details.

Tomorrow I’ll show my newest discoveries. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RARE TRUE VINTAGE PRE-WWII AND WARTIME LADIES’ BLOUSES

Here are two of my oldest women’s blouses and two of the most interesting. What more can I say about the blue one? Not sure if it was home-tailored by a creative and fashion-forward gal, but I think so. Perfectly unique and attention-grabbing. What fun! Love it!!

The second blouse is from about the same time frame, but much more classic. You can see from the label that it was commercially-made and the Sanforized cotton designation puts it squarely after 1930. The Sailor collar styling was really popular for children beginning in the 1800’s, or before, but became a “thing” in women’s fashion especially in the years surrounding major wars, as did other types of military-inspired styling. It’s a classic sportswear item from the mid-century and could have been worn with a skirt, too, when women rarely wore pants or shorts.

The unusual thing about it is the tartan-weave trim. I can’t decide what may have inspired that but this blouse may have been sold in Great Britain or, possibly, was a homegrown Japanese take on U.S. and U.K. style, made to be worn locally in Japan. Some of that kind of thing was happening in Japan even decades before WWII. See how these investigative mysteries become more complex the deeper you go? I’d planned on showing more blouses today, but these two easily fill the space. I’ll continue with more tomorrow.

In the meantime, this is a NEWS FLASH! Yesterday I was on a new investigation and discovered true vintage and exceptionally-made retro garments. Both need a touch of hand-repair, so today will be a sewing day but I will post them soon. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’s Western-wear Fashion Trend, Inspired by the Movies

Cowboy movies, which actually began a decade or so before the 1940’s, gained popularity and caused a major fashion movement in the Forties and Fifties. This beautiful men’s shirt, which belonged to a family member, is one of the favorite pieces I’ve ever seen. The colors are vibrant and who doesn’t love red and turquoise together? Look at the detail! There are even small pockets tucked under the yoke piping in front. Some of these were custom-tailored.

Cowboy hats also became very popular. This one is a well-preserved woven straw but wool felt hats by Stetson, in particular, were the most often seen. Bolo ties, made of leather with silver slides and aiguillettes replaced fabric neckties in Western-wear dress-up.

I have a pair of 1940’s women’s high-waist wool slacks with wide fabric belt loops finished with pearlized snaps. What a rare find! Don’t have a picture of them handy, but take my word that some of the Western fad did cross over into women’s-wear. I’ve got a cowboy-style shirt with floral embroidery and a fringed leather jacket from this era. This mother-of-pearl brooch is an example and, of course, silver and turquoise jewelry made by Native Americans was the real deal. I also have many examples of that, some that were owned by family members, too.

Naturally, the popularity of Western-wear has not decreased over the decades. Although there is a niche market for the very authentic and work-oriented designs, the style shows up in retail fashion all the time. A very pronounced trend really hit in the early 1950’s – that was Southwestern-style cotton dresses, most of which were 2-piece, and heavily decorated with colorful ric-rac and ribbon. Some Native American women wore these and they were heavily marketed for tourists in the southwestern states. 1940’s versions had 3/4 length skinny sleeves with metal zippers to the elbow. Later, short-sleeved versions and even cap-sleeve style dresses showed up in the genre. I’ve shown many of these in past blog posts. Add to that soft leather ankle-length boots and beaded moccasins. So glad that my family alive during the ’30’s – ’50’s enjoyed traveling to the the Southwest and did so many times!

Very fun, collectable and wearable. Tomorrow I’ll be showing women’s blouses & tops from this era. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S CASUAL DRESSES

We’ll begin with a pretty, white cotton eyelet dress that was home-sewn in 1940. It’s a lovely dress for town or a picnic, but it was made to be a wedding dress. Coming off the Depression years and with war in Europe, it was a very modest but hopeful costume for entering a dream future.

After 1941 and the United States joined World War 2, fashion became much simpler and plainer, but very practical. Shirtwaist housedresses and day dresses were the general uniform for women who didn’t wear specific uniforms related to their work. Dancing, as well as movie-going, were common inexpensive activities that helped people escape the worries and fears of their daily lives. Separates became more popular. Knitwear and wider gored skirts allowed movement while jitterbug was the favorite dance of those young enough to do it.

Plastic “gems” appeared in costume jewelry pieces, as well as preserved natural leaves. Even during the Depression and Wartime, a little bling always lifted spirits and enhanced any outfit. Tomorrow I’ll cover a 1940’s casual fad that made fashion more interesting during that time. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S BETTER DAY-DRESSES AND ACCESSORIES

I had planned to show more dresses this morning, but my computer suddenly won’t upload more pictures. So, we’ll stick with these beautiful frocks today. The one above is from the Post-war period, I would guess, though some longer hems were also present before WWII started.

A lovely nylon slip like the one above might have been worn with it.

The mid-blue dress is made from a stiffer fabric and is from earlier in the decade. Cute and more girlish, but both are special – dressier daywear.

Mid-century costume jewelry pins and brooches like the ones in this picture, especially those on the left side, might have been worn with dresses like this and a dark navy handbag like the one above is a nicer 1940’s style with a fabric body and strap.

This final black frock is probably meant for cocktails, dinner or evening, though very tailored. It comes from the early Forties or perhaps the Thirties, with it’s Deco-style decoration with metal studs.

So, this is a little wardrobe trip from the pre-war and, possibly, the post-war 1940’s. Some of the costume pins also span the decades from late Thirties to early Fifties. Tomorrow I’m sticking with the same era, but focusing on more casual styles. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LATE 1930’S DAY AND DRESSIER FROCK and ACCESSORIES

Too many photos to do both decades together! I’ll spread them out over 2 or 3 days instead. Here are a couple of pretty 1930’s frocks and their accompaniments. First, one that our Depression Era gal might have worn to town. Perfect for shopping and a movie. It’s a lovely crocheted lace over-dress with a matching acetate satin slip underneath. Look at the celluloid belt buckle, also died to match.

The second dress is a rayon sheath with an over-blouse look and Art Deco beaded decoration. She might have worn it to cocktails, dinner and dancing later. Probably, the hemline would have been midi-length on her figure. An acetate slip underneath would have enhanced the fit and it has such unusual decoration on the bodice.

No matter where she was going, she might have carried a chatelaine rouge and powder compact and an antique needlepoint handbag. The clutch above also has a celluloid closure on the metal frame. The pot metal charm bracelet for daytime has European coins and Depression Era male figures dangling – a soldier, a laborer and a tycoon.

Pretty but practical shoes made for walking and dancing – and, of course, she can’t go anywhere without her 1930’s Zippo lighter. She’ll want to visit the smoking lounge during the movie matinee’.

Late Thirties – Forties tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SPECIAL WARTIME AND POST-WAR STYLES FROM THE 1940’S

Classic designs made subtle changes over the decade which reflect the evolution of style and the social and historical events taking place at that time. Party dresses for special occasions have always been a “thing”. Skirt suits from Utility-style in the mid-’40’s to embellished designs were more like couture garments in the Post-war years. A matching hat was always essential.

High-school Prom tradition is about 100 years old now. The popularity of skirt suits for women began about the same time. Since about 2000, traditional styles in both these categories have shifted in major ways, so the focus on these types of garments in my investigations has gone from around 1920 through the 1990’s, with the spotlight on 1930’s – 1980’s. The Forties through the Sixties have been my favorite decades for classic structured suits, as they were more like two-piece dresses before and after and very trendy in design. Good luck finding a true vintage suit or Prom dress from the 1920’s or even the ’30’s but after 1940 the clues are still out there.

Although there were some very nice styles from the 1920’s and 1930’s, the prettiest suits and formal dresses, in my opinion, came from the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. Lots of attention to detail, flattering fit and high quality. In decades after that, frocks were not as interesting and suits were generally more boring, too. Tomorrow I’m going back to late 1930’s – 1940’s for dresses with one or two ’80’s WWII retro styles thrown in. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM