Category Archives: Kennedy era

UPSCALE TRUE VINTAGE 3-SEASON FAUX FUR HAT. SO MUCH FUN TO WRITE ABOUT THIS!

About the last thing I expected to encounter! There I was, looking for some chains for crystal pendants I’ve been buying and a dangle for the end of my 1960’s chain belt (which I found, by the way) and what was propped on a nearby hat-stand?; a quasi-luxe faux beaver fur hat, made in Italy for the iconic Simpson’s department store chain of Canada, which finally phased out in 1991!! More about that a bit later. First, the hat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Boy, do I miss my models who are having time free at Headquarters. They would do a much better job of showing this off, but you can get the essentials from these photos. Looking almost like new, with just a little storage crush. This baby is at least 35 years old and could be more like 60. The rayon-like liner is pristine, with the original label. Classic Russian toque style with a slim fabric hatband for best fit. It’s very flattering and super-practical – will fill an empty niche in my hat collection perfectly!

And, what a pedigree! Made in Italy, to their high standards of that time (some makers still seem to have them). Simpsons Department stores were historic vendors, started in 1872!!! They were in stiff competition with the Eaton’s chain and evidently tried to upscale their merchandise for a winning position. All the Eatons stores finally closed in 1999, so these two were head to head for well over 100 years. The first Simpsons store was in Toronto, Ontario, and could be compared to the iconic Marshall Field of Chicago in terms of the elegance of the store itself and its merchandise. Like Field’s, they also did the elaborate Christmas windows that families would travel far just to see. 80 years later, they teamed up with Sears, Roebuck & Co., becoming Simpson Sears. Like Sears in the U.S., they also offered a catalog service. In another 24 years, the Simpsons element was purchased by the Hudson’s Bay Company and the store name became The Bay in 1991. In the Northeast U.S. and Canada, all three of these names were very well-known and depended upon for high quality and fashionable merchandise. In the States, we could compare Eaton’s, Simpsons and The Bay to Marshall Field’s, Bloomingdales and Saks Fifth Avenue, to name a few. You can see why I’m so thrilled with this true vintage find!

So, as I always say: You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned. I am . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FALL IS COMING! IT’S TIME TO PULL OUT MY ICONIC 1960’S SUEDE LEATHER CAR COAT

So many mid-century gals had a similar coat when John F. Kennedy was president. This one is a well-made daily-wear style that goes with almost anything. It has a rayon satin lining that doesn’t make it too warm in mild weather, but I have seen and own examples with pile liners which usually zip out. Quality mid-century clothing was ingenious, stylish and practical.

Although 3/4 sleeves might seem awkward on a coat, they were a BIG fashion feature at that time and look SO GREAT with gloves that are longer. It’s always worth collecting true vintage gloves that are almost elbow-length; not the kind that are worn with evening dresses, but beautiful, tailored gloves of vintage kidskin. Knitted or cloth gloves would also work with this jacket in a casual mood because it’s so versatile. I love it here with my 1980’s Western-style suede skirt.

Huge plastic buttons were also a common feature on coats from the years before and after 1960 and would often give major giveaways about the garment. In general, the quality of the buttons reflected the overall quality of the coat. Detailed, sculpted buttons were very interesting and showed that a coat was not a bargain item. Sometimes they even had inlaid pieces of different colors or faux gems like “pearls” or rhinestones. A dressy coat might have buttons like that even though the coat style was very tailored. In this case, you see tailored elegance on a mid-priced garment that would last for many years.

I love Fall and, since the weather is changing, I’ll have to trot out a lot of clothing that has been in storage – maybe even open some of the archives . .. . …. . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LAST CHANCE TO WEAR MY 1960’S KENNEDY ERA SUMMER PUMPS!

It’s almost Labor Day, OMG!! According to the North American dress codes of the 1960’s, wearing white or shoes with cutouts like these pale beige ones after Labor Day would have been a traditional fashion faux pas (in other words, big “no, no”); an embarrassing mistake that spoke to your lack of fashion sense.

With great respect to individual and cultural standards of proper dress and modesty, thank goodness those rules no longer apply in general! Unlike our grandmothers and maybe our mothers, we can wear white and pastels whenever we want to!! We can also wear black to a wedding, white or bright colors to a funeral, slacks anywhere, sleeveless blouses anytime, shorts and sandals year-round, weather permitting. Good taste and elegance are, of course, another matter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

In 1960’s shoes like these, our grannies wouldn’t face the Fashion Police in any way. They’re exceptionally well-made (how could they have lasted so long if not?), color is pretty universal and not offensive, style is modest and mainstream and they’re comfortable for walking. Not my favorite style, but worth collecting.

That said, I much prefer the 1980’s Italian-made sandals discovery that I just posted a few days ago – interesting design, great quality, elegant and versatile style and much more flattering. But, hey, we don’t have any lock on that in the more recent decades. Fabulous avante garde and va-va-voom styles have been produced at least for the past 100 years. I should review the archives ……

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND: TRUE VINTAGE WARTIME – MID – CENTURY JEWELRY

These pieces are very lovely and well-made. I am surprised that neither of them is signed or branded. It’s not often that I come across clues like these when just out and about – usually they wind up in antique stores or at estate sales.

The brooch is heavy and all the rhinestones are present. Its pin mechanism locks securely There is no corrosion on the gold-tone metal and it is quite clean overall. Someone loved this piece and stored it well. Easy to see why. I date it from the 1950’s to the early to mid-1960’s. The style is classic but modern and a bit lyrical, as was often seen in jewelry by Trifari during the same period.

The pearl bracelet is older and originally was at least as nice. There is a simple, box – push clasp which is not found on most precious jewelry with the exception of some very lightweight pieces; But the metal, while not fine, is untarnished and clean and the latch is secure. The bracelet is heavy but this is predominantly from the weight of the champagne-colored pearls, which I believe are genuine (though surely cultured). One is missing on the clasp, but I think I will be able to replace it. The strands are knotted between the gems. There are a few tiny rhinestones on the clasp and the keeper bars. Only one is missing, in a spot where this would never be noticed. Overall, this is also a very good-quality costume piece in a classic style and I would date it from the late 1930’s to the war-time 1940’s possibly to the early 1960’s.

Though fine jewelry is easier to trace, any accessory piece is a good place to start an investigation. I’ll probably keep them in the files for a while. What a coup if that missing pearl should show up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TWO FRESH HANDBAG FINDS! NEW WAVE 1980’S BACK TO THE MID-CENTURY. COULDN’T BE MORE DIFFERENT.

I’m always delighted to find a New Wave early 1980’s piece in beautiful condition. The shadow lines seen in the photo are just a reflection from the glossy surface. This black silk satin evening bag with a gold-tone geometric chain handle was made in Italy and sold by Holt Renfrew, a luxury department store in Canada. It’s very sleek and slim – a great example of the genre. Wouldn’t you know, I have a black leather cinch belt with gold edging from 1980 – perfect match!

Another little coin purse was found at the same location. It’s vinyl from the 1950’s or, more likely, the early 1960’s. Durable and cute, but cheap and hardly elegant. Why did I bother to collect this? Well, if you carry true vintage handbags regularly, you know that although some of the best ones had little matching coin purses tucked inside and attached by a cord, the majority had no secure place to carry coins. That always had to come from a separate coin purse or a ladies’ wallet which had a coin purse inside (or her escort’s pocket). Wallets like that were rarely, if ever, made for women before the late 1950’s and early 1960’s, in my experience. I wonder if that had anything to do with women’s ability to manage their own money? But, I digress . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fortunately, that’s one thing we can more or less take for granted now and I don’t like hunting in the bottom of a handbag or in a pocket for change. Much less do I like to mend holes in the bottoms of pockets that have been abused that way. Therefore, handy purse accessories are always at the top of my list when I’m investigating. And sometimes, the most interesting clues can be found inside. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND: MID-CENTURY MEN’S(?) LEATHER KEY CASE ACCESSORY

Practically “new”; just a little corrosion on the metal parts. I couldn’t pass this up since it is an iconic true vintage personal item. This fine accessory is an example of a key case style that had been made for decades and decades, mostly before the 1970’s. Always in leather, and with a simple fold-over design and with these little metal hooks that can hold old-style car keys, house keys, post office box key, storage box key, office key, etc,, etc. I’ve seen many of them, and they’re always a good clue – especially if the keys are still present. . . . . . . . . . . . .

The design is meant to lie flat when the keys are tucked inside, so best for a pocket only. That’s why I have always guessed that it’s mostly a men’s accessory. When other types of more modern and prettier key-rings were not available, though, one of these could tuck securely into a lady’s handbag and they do allow the owner to carry all their important keys in one tidy place. Many of them, like this one, contained a card on which the owner could write their name and address in case the keys were lost. Often, people ignored these and they were still left tucked inside.

It’s another example of the elegant and high-quality items that our ancestors owned and used almost every day. I just never know what might turn up. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MY VERY LATEST FIND: A PAIR OF ICONIC KENNEDY-ERA GLOVES. TOO SPECIAL TO PASS UP . . . . . . .

Who doesn’t have mid-century white wrist-length gloves passed down by the older women in their families? I’ve got a collection, both of “heritage” gloves and those that I’ve discovered during past investigations. Cotton, leather, suede, synthetic – I’ve kept only the best of the best. Like handkerchiefs and little hats, these gloves were ubiquitous – every woman had them because in the late 1950’s through the early 1960’s they were mandatory when you left the house. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy made them a true fashion statement that no well-dressed woman would be seen without.

So, a ton of them have been out in the vintage marketplace even though they’re not a wardrobe staple anymore. But, wait . . . . . . . . gloves, in general, are definitely a wardrobe staple and these are PERFECT! What do you wear with a white jacket or coat on a cool day? How do you save your white leather gloves from getting dirty? Beautifully hand-tailored gloves like these are a great alternative. Even if you’re not wearing an early ’60’s dress, these are classic enough to wear with anything, including slacks.

Other factors which made these a catch, besides their beauty, and caused me to pick them up: 1. The synthetic fabric – probably nylon or a nylon blend – has stretch which makes them super comfortable and flexible as well as giving a good fit. 2. This type of fabric washes well, similar to nylon lingerie slips. You can even wash them in hot water if you need to and as long as the decoration will tolerate it (but those buttons can easily be detached for laundering and re-sewn on). 3. This is maybe the BIGGEST PLUS – like nylon slips, in my experience, they take dye very well and can be dyed to match anything you’d like!!!

That’s my very latest find and I was thrilled to discover them. You just never know! Now, I only have to decide on the color . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE UNUSUAL MID-CENTURY MEN’S LEATHER BILLFOLD

Here’s my next deja’ vu find – similar but completely different from the wallet found and posted two weeks ago. This well-made billfold is very unique, also with tooled details but very different from the other’s style. The decoration almost makes you think that it could have been designed for women, but I’m going to stick with the conclusion that it was made for men because it is so slim. Women’s true vintage billfolds generally are much thicker and were meant to be carried inside a purse rather than in a pocket. However, I’ll happily use it! Another similarity to the wallet shown two weeks ago is the unusual coin-purse inside. What a surprise to find this feature again! One of the most frustrating things about men’s wallets is no good place to put coins and other small items. What could be more practical for a man or a woman? No more holes in pants pockets from digging for the loose coins at the bottom!

It’s made by another iconic brand – Toolcraft, made in Canada. As I always say, I can’t send enough love for the quality of goods made before about 1970. Also, lots of love to the women, and men, who valued quality over quantity and took care with their possessions so that they would truly last for decades as opposed to the culture we have today which just produces mountains of trash.

OK, enough of that because a true vintage investigator is free from it! And, this is not the last of my latest discoveries – stay tuned for the next transmission .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

EXCITING “NEW” TRUE VINTAGE HANDBAG FINDS!

Let’s start with a deja’ vu item (for me) – I call it this because I discovered a nearly identical one and posted it just two weeks ago! However, the exciting thing is the different clues involved in their stories. Always SO interesting! Plus, one new item which is a rare find and always makes me do an extra happy dance. . . . . . . .. . . . . ..

Oh, Ho hum you may say. Another black cocktail clutch. Yes, I have many of these in my case archives (and closet), but each one is unique in some way. The fun thing about this one is the similarities to the other one recently found; 1. Both are rectangular and designed to be hand-held. 2. Both are made of black rayon satin. 3. Both have hand-done beading on the front AND back. 4. Both have an additional pocket (or two) inside. 5. Both are from the mid-century, probably post-WWII.

HOWEVER, the one found two weeks ago is more finely made. It was constructed in Hong Kong (while it was still British Hong Kong) while this one above was probably made in North America but is an iconic brand name (Soure’). The first found has more elaborate beading on the front. It is a sac design with no stiffening and simply folds over to close, while this one has stiffening between the layers, probably some form of cardboard, and a metal snap closure (more common and less elegant). These clues lead me to decide that the first find is 10 – 20 years older even though they are so similar. Investigations are so fun! You can check out the previous post and see what I mean.

The final item, just found, is the one that really gives me happy feet – see the little coin purse? I LOVE FINDING THESE!!!!! Not too many of them exist anymore and they are SO convenient and iconic inside a true vintage handbag. This one, also, is navy blue rather than black. It will definitely have a home in one of my purses at Headquarters.

OK, that’s the first of my recent deja’ vu finds, but there is another one which I will put in a separate post because it is in a different category – Men’s true vintage accessories! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S – 1960’S DESIGNER AND HIGH-QUALITY ACCESSORIES

Now that we’ve reached the Spring Equinox, let’s start off with a Calvin Klein Easter hat in Spring pastels. A continuous flat tube of fabric is woven into a toque shape, overlaid with netting. A Mod-ern take on a traditional style. A lucky woman could look like an ice cream cone.

Some dressier handbags continued to be made of traditional tapestry-design fabric. Both of these above are small, one with a rigid leather-covered handle,, leather trim and metal feet on a covered metal frame. The other is a soft bag with a decorative closure and snake chain handle, sold with it’s own protective cover.

Classic pumps for everyday evolved in the early – mid 1960’s to mid-heel height with a slightly rounded toe but stilettos were still more popular than chunky heels – a necessary Rockabilly accessory. A pair of white pumps was an essential part of Spring – Summer wardrobes, even though pastels to match outfits and classic neutrals, beige, gray, navy, black and brown, still held their places. Miss Wonderful was a fun, mid-priced brand.

This has been a fun review of some of the files since December. Guests have arrived and international travel is looming. Daily transmissions over this airwave will be suspended, though periodic bulletins may continue. Archived posts in the public domain will remain available. Over . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM