JUST FOUND: TRUE VINTAGE WARTIME – MID – CENTURY JEWELRY

These pieces are very lovely and well-made. I am surprised that neither of them is signed or branded. It’s not often that I come across clues like these when just out and about – usually they wind up in antique stores or at estate sales.

The brooch is heavy and all the rhinestones are present. Its pin mechanism locks securely There is no corrosion on the gold-tone metal and it is quite clean overall. Someone loved this piece and stored it well. Easy to see why. I date it from the 1950’s to the early to mid-1960’s. The style is classic but modern and a bit lyrical, as was often seen in jewelry by Trifari during the same period.

The pearl bracelet is older and originally was at least as nice. There is a simple, box – push clasp which is not found on most precious jewelry with the exception of some very lightweight pieces; But the metal, while not fine, is untarnished and clean and the latch is secure. The bracelet is heavy but this is predominantly from the weight of the champagne-colored pearls, which I believe are genuine (though surely cultured). One is missing on the clasp, but I think I will be able to replace it. The strands are knotted between the gems. There are a few tiny rhinestones on the clasp and the keeper bars. Only one is missing, in a spot where this would never be noticed. Overall, this is also a very good-quality costume piece in a classic style and I would date it from the late 1930’s to the war-time 1940’s possibly to the early 1960’s.

Though fine jewelry is easier to trace, any accessory piece is a good place to start an investigation. I’ll probably keep them in the files for a while. What a coup if that missing pearl should show up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

2 TRUE VINTAGE ACCESSORY FINDS FROM THE MID-CENTURY AND BEFORE – RARE AND RARER!

So, I was out and about again, making another donation and look what appeared! From the 1950’s – early 1960’s – you’d think that after all the beaded evening bags I’ve discovered that I’d say “ho, hum . . . .”, but this one is a real beauty with one unusual feature.

Of course, gorgeous heavy beading front and back with a rayon satin body and lining. Handmade in Hong Kong with an inside pocket. It’s in near-perfect shape – some woman prized this little purse and kept it carefully folded away, probably in a dresser with her scarves or lingerie. The fabric label inside has started to fray and there are a couple of tiny marks on the lining – otherwise the condition is like new. The unusual feature mentioned above is the fact that it has no closure. Most bags like this close with a snap or a metal zipper. This one has an elongated top that simply folds over. Once in a while I have seen a vintage day or evening bag designed in this way, but it’s rare.

Even more special in some ways is this glass bead necklace. Clues point to the 1920’s – 1930’s – great find! The white beads are about 1/4″ round with white seed beads in between rather than knots. The clues pointing to it’s age are numerous. It’s been hand-strung by someone who knew what they were doing and tied off with a firm knot. The cord looks like it has yellowed over the years, which I’ve often seen. Seems to be a professional job to me – nice and tight. Interesting that there is no finding closure. Unless the beads were re-strung without a finding, I guess that it had been made that way originally – not unusual in jewelry I’ve discovered from the 20’s and the Depression era when metal findings weren’t as available (in case you don’t know the term – findings on jewelry are the metal closures and other pieces that make up the structure on necklaces, earrings and bracelets with beads or stones). Another clue is the length of this necklace. It’s a long one that hangs below the waist but also can be looped twice over the head to make a double strand. Perfect for any flapper.

After I happily collected these two, something else appeared, which I’ll post tomorrow. It just goes to show that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LADIES’ DRESSY AND FORMAL – WEAR FROM THE EARLY 1950’S

From cocktail party to Prom to a wedding, these dresses and separates went to many swanky events. A sparkly bling necklace and earrings were a necessity, too. Stiletto pumps became the hugely big footwear trend for women.

Jacquard “brocade”, satin, lace, metallic thread, organza and netting, cashmere, beads and sequins and even fur trimming – all popular materials in garments for nights out and special events. The prosperity of the Fifties brought on a real break-out in middle-class spending and ostentation. Showy was good but, fortunately, so was elegance so we had some of the most beautiful gowns produced during this time. Female movie stars of this decade were some of the best-dressed women ever seen. The first dress pictured, with the fur-trimmed sleeves, is a gorgeous example of the New Look style. Fun and novelty were also present in many examples of the more casual clothing but the cheap-looking garishness of the 1990’s was not the thing.

I love these clothes and it’s fun to show them. All would have fascinating stories. The elegance of design showed up in dressy daywear, too, and I’ll be showing some of that tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S LADIES COATS AND ACCESSORIES

Beautiful wool coats which called for lapel brooches. Umbrellas with handles made of wood, celluloid and other “new” plastics. As always, I love the pretty fabric patterns and bling alongside the tailored elegance of the coats and jackets.

You can see the wartime influence on the first coat with it’s simplicity and lack of detail while a nod to luxury has been made by the velvet collar. Military style influence is visible in the big padded shoulders and the shape of the fur hat. I can really picture Ingrid Bergman wearing a coat like the fitted one – similar to trenchcoat design a la the movie Casablanca. The pale blue version with big pink buttons is moving us toward the 1950’s.

More reasons why the 1940’s fashion decade is probably my favorite. However, the 1950’s are also a big competitor on my favorites list and we’ll travel into the early part of that decade tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A TRUE VINTAGE COSTUME BRACELET FOR BETTY BOOP AND ONE FOR BETTE DAVIS

Latest jewelry finds! Love it – the one at the top was a dime-store purchase or maybe even from a mail-order kit to make at home. (These kinds of craft kits were heavily marketed to homemakers in the mid-century but that’s another story – maybe coming up) Anyway, it was something to put on on your way to the soda fountain or the races but absolutely just for some rockabilly fun.

You can see that the adhesive was unevenly applied and has yellowed over the years. The “stones” are plastic and the bracelet itself is probably made of pot metal. However, it’s exactly the thing that a modern teenage gal might have worn in 1955. It won’t go in the vault but too cute to pass up. And, don’t knock the 5 & 10! Women LOVED the dime-stores back in the Fifties when there was some stability again after the war and lots of goods became available. You could get almost anything there – like our Dollar Stores today.

At the bottom, here’s a different animal. No, not quite “Bette Davis” – it’s completely faux – but sophisticated and pretty, as well as being nicely made. Any time a bracelet or necklace has a safety chain it indicates a certain level of quality in the piece. Definitely worthy of her date for the Prom, or . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WHILE WE’RE IN THE JEWELRY FILE, IT’S NOT ONLY WOMEN WHO LEAVE IMPORTANT CLUES

How many times has a dropped cuff-link or a tie tack on an end table been the downfall of a careless man? I’ll bet that Perry Mason could go on all night about those cases. Here are a couple of examples which were very important to a well-dressed guy in the 1950’s and early 1960’s. The set on left are fine jewelry; sterling silver set with pearls. On the right, an ensemble by Swank – costume jewelry, but very respectable. Department stores, jewelry stores and some men’s clothiers carried these items.

Like their female counterparts, men’s taste in jewelry (or, at least, the things they wore) were always valuable clues in case of a mystery. Even though his dress might be due to very unconscious choices, the women, families and vendors involved could probably put together the whole story for a diligent investigator. For our purposes, there’s no need for elaborate interviews or forensics to pinpoint the fashion era of these pieces. With a little imagination and a lot of sleuthing know-how, the entire profile of our suspect comes in to focus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NO MID-CENTURY WOMAN LEFT HOME FOR AN OUTING WITHOUT A LITTLE BLING

Whether it was a trip to town for the weekly shopping, the Women’s Club meeting or a visit to a friend in the hospital, a church service or a weekend in the city, most women’s jewelry boxes would have them covered. A simple, but elegant, pair of silver earrings purchased during that trip to Mexico would be perfect with a cotton shirt-dress or cotton blouse and capris at the grocery store. That simple string of white pearls can go almost anywhere anytime, even though these are costume (just don’t wear them in the shower). The brooch in raspberry tones would go well with a nice dress or on the lapel of your coat and the iridescent blue parure is perfect with a dressy suit. Some other time we’ll have to explore the eveningwear file –

At any rate, a few pieces could be very versatile but still leave sleuths with valuable clues about when, where and by who they were worn. It’s often enough to clinch a case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A LADIES WAR-TIME EARRINGS AND BROOCH JEWELRY SET FROM 1940

This set reflects very well the resourcefulness of war-time women and their suppliers in the fashion trade. The availability of metals was restricted, if not yet rationed in 1940. Why not use a hardening and preserving process to manufacture beautiful pieces from natural leaves? The brooch might even have a loop behind for hanging on a chain as a necklace, which was often done. Of course, we’ve seen similar jewelry in the commercial market for the past 3 or 4 decades but this must have been a new or rarely-used technique back in the day. Looks like copper was part of the witch’s brew used here.

Just love it when a lady (investigator, victim or witness? . . . . . .) made notes about the evidence which we sleuths can use in the future and kept the original packaging. Perfect clue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . …

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN HISTORICAL CHARM BRACELET FROM THE 1920’S 1930’S 1940’s DEPRESSION – World War ERA

So, when I unpacked this I thought “Oh, a charm bracelet. Those started to become fashionable in the mid-century.” Well, when I looked at it closely it’s no regular charm bracelet. It tells the story of the New Deal and wartime. Those coins are from various European countries, and the United States. Germany, France, Italy and England are represented. Leaving out several players, these are the principal Enemy and western Allies of World Wars 1&2. The little male figures (only men, of course) represent people from different walks of life and levels of society. The Native American, the professor, the businessman, the teamster, the beggar, the Laborer and the Elite. This may represent the New Deal’s aim of leveling the economic playing field across all the population. A great idea. Good luck with that.

Fabulous clue, however. Only a certain type of woman at a certain time and from a certain type of place would wear such a bracelet. Or, perhaps, it was an individual creation worn as an unobtrusive bauble but carrying a coded message . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Uh, oh. I just have to show you this stash of clues . . . . . . . . . .

We’ll leave the Victoriana after today, I promise, but what an intriguing cache of “stuff” I just unpacked! This lot includes souvenirs (Philadelphia Mint 1832, Wiesbaden), charms for good attendance at school or church, a double-sided locket, a little basket carved out of a seed (for a child or in remembrance of a stroll with a sweetheart?), what remains of someone’s mourning pin, the decorative tops of a couple of matching hatpins, a pretty butterfly pin, a couple of clips for pocket or office(?), silver sewing thimbles, a doll’s scissors and, the most mysterious to me, the two items at top right in the first photograph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The ivory die, broken on one side, (which clearly is the one that Uncle Thaddeus used when he lost the poker match and subsequently murdered Ebenezer) – and, better yet, the little ivory Geisha girl charm with a hidden compartment. Perfect for carrying your daily dose of homeopathic globules, as prescribed by the doctor, OR a deadly poison. Can you imagine the value of discovering one of these at the scene of an investigation? Wardrobe accessories and pocket or purse contents are often much more than fashion statements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM