Author Archives: Morgana Martin, the magicvintagespy

2 TRUE VINTAGE ACCESSORY FINDS FROM THE MID-CENTURY AND BEFORE – RARE AND RARER!

So, I was out and about again, making another donation and look what appeared! From the 1950’s – early 1960’s – you’d think that after all the beaded evening bags I’ve discovered that I’d say “ho, hum . . . .”, but this one is a real beauty with one unusual feature.

Of course, gorgeous heavy beading front and back with a rayon satin body and lining. Handmade in Hong Kong with an inside pocket. It’s in near-perfect shape – some woman prized this little purse and kept it carefully folded away, probably in a dresser with her scarves or lingerie. The fabric label inside has started to fray and there are a couple of tiny marks on the lining – otherwise the condition is like new. The unusual feature mentioned above is the fact that it has no closure. Most bags like this close with a snap or a metal zipper. This one has an elongated top that simply folds over. Once in a while I have seen a vintage day or evening bag designed in this way, but it’s rare.

Even more special in some ways is this glass bead necklace. Clues point to the 1920’s – 1930’s – great find! The white beads are about 1/4″ round with white seed beads in between rather than knots. The clues pointing to it’s age are numerous. It’s been hand-strung by someone who knew what they were doing and tied off with a firm knot. The cord looks like it has yellowed over the years, which I’ve often seen. Seems to be a professional job to me – nice and tight. Interesting that there is no finding closure. Unless the beads were re-strung without a finding, I guess that it had been made that way originally – not unusual in jewelry I’ve discovered from the 20’s and the Depression era when metal findings weren’t as available (in case you don’t know the term – findings on jewelry are the metal closures and other pieces that make up the structure on necklaces, earrings and bracelets with beads or stones). Another clue is the length of this necklace. It’s a long one that hangs below the waist but also can be looped twice over the head to make a double strand. Perfect for any flapper.

After I happily collected these two, something else appeared, which I’ll post tomorrow. It just goes to show that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WOWEE! MORE TRUE VINTAGE SURPRISE FINDS –

Will transmit data very soon. Lots of clues! – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Image: TWO TRUE VINTAGE PURSES FOR SPRING & SUMMER BY MORRIS MOSCOWITZ & ANDE’

JUST FOUND! A BEAUTIFUL TRUE VINTAGE ACCESSORY IN CLASSIC TOOLED LEATHER

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I always LOVE discovering these gorgeous handmade leather accessories from the mid-century. As they become rarer, it’s a huge thrill to uncover one by surprise! In this case, the wallet is so classic and early mid-century that I love the design. An added bonus is the near-perfect condition. A small amount of common greenish corrosion can be seen on the metal snap closing the coin pocket but it works perfectly. I will remove the corrosion with a bit of vinegar. Other signs of light use are very minor – looks like it was cared for lovingly.

Let’s start the evaluation with the exterior, which has a traditional rosebush motif. This is an early pattern, seen on some of the older items I’ve found. It’s amazing to find the leather lacing around the edges unbroken and in such pristine condition. On the inside, I adore the additional features such as sleeves for a drivers license and other cards, receipts, etc. This billfold was probably made for a man in spite of the rose design, likely before the time of common credit cards, but has such an unusual addition of the coin purse inside; Multi-tasking before the modern era of man-purses and other pocket accessories. However, the bi-color interior is also an unexpected feature to see in an older men’s accessory. Who knows the sex of the original owner? I always love a mystery!!

This beauty will have a gentle massage with leather lotion to extend it’s lifetime even more. Back at Headquarters, I’ll look in the files to see which of my tooled leather purses may need an additional accessory – I always try to match the finishes and designs, if possible. If there’s no good match, this billfold can stand on its own, with spaces for all money-related items (excepting a checkbook).

So, two surprise discoveries in my brief investigation two days ago and both of them unusual and wonderful! See my other find in yesterday’s post. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS AND FUN SURPRISE FIND – TRUE VINTAGE, AS ALWAYS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A wonderful authentic Lily blouse from the 1970’s! I was out and about dropping off a charity donation and found this beautiful shirt. Such a surprise; I have several other Lily blouses in my closet, from the 1960’s but haven’t seen one during an investigation for a long time. These lovely shirts were a mid-century staple. The signature fabric is so soft and airy, the pretty embroidery done so well. Most older ones had monochromatic Asian-inspired designs. This one is similar to colorful Latin American indigenous designs, which became more popular in the early 1970’s.

I love the old-style sizing on these blouses and am thrilled that it is in a size I can wear – just about a modern size 2(which would be perfect for Stella, as well. I certainly miss her when I’m not at Headquarters. See her modeling work in many previous posts). It also has double-button cuffs, which is another late 1960’s – early 1970’s tailoring detail, AND a button and loop at the neckline which can be fastened to lessen gaping there, if you want to. True vintage garments almost always have such excellent tailoring and, despite it’s age, I see no signs of wear. The previous owner may have washed it by hand, which would be so easy to do, and avoided the wear and tear of traditional machine washing. So, this lovely won’t be going to eBay or Etsy!!

I also found another true vintage item in pristine condition, which I will post tomorrow. I’m a Satisfied Sleuther!! Just goes to show that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S – 1960’S DESIGNER AND HIGH-QUALITY ACCESSORIES

Now that we’ve reached the Spring Equinox, let’s start off with a Calvin Klein Easter hat in Spring pastels. A continuous flat tube of fabric is woven into a toque shape, overlaid with netting. A Mod-ern take on a traditional style. A lucky woman could look like an ice cream cone.

Some dressier handbags continued to be made of traditional tapestry-design fabric. Both of these above are small, one with a rigid leather-covered handle,, leather trim and metal feet on a covered metal frame. The other is a soft bag with a decorative closure and snake chain handle, sold with it’s own protective cover.

Classic pumps for everyday evolved in the early – mid 1960’s to mid-heel height with a slightly rounded toe but stilettos were still more popular than chunky heels – a necessary Rockabilly accessory. A pair of white pumps was an essential part of Spring – Summer wardrobes, even though pastels to match outfits and classic neutrals, beige, gray, navy, black and brown, still held their places. Miss Wonderful was a fun, mid-priced brand.

This has been a fun review of some of the files since December. Guests have arrived and international travel is looming. Daily transmissions over this airwave will be suspended, though periodic bulletins may continue. Archived posts in the public domain will remain available. Over . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE PATIO LEISURE LONG DRESSES FROM THE 1970’S – 1990’S

Through the decades the changes in style are often subtle, but they’re noticeable if your sleuthing trade skills are sharp. One thing that all these dresses have in common is excellent quality. I showed several dresses of this genre which were made in the Victorian/Prairie style when covering 1970’s Prom dresses a couple of months ago. Early in that decade, girls sometimes wore them to the Prom but they were usually fussier with lace and more details. Jessica McClintock of Gunne Sax styled them for at least 20 – 30 years. Labels always help, of course, but aren’t always present. The condition of all these examples is near-perfect, which can make the job a easier, though tell-tale signs of wear can sometimes be very helpful clues. Let’s start from left to right:

A Prairie-style gown, pretty and modest in cotton. Looks like it was made for retail because of the precise tailoring detail, but there is no label. I would put it in the 1970’s but it could possibly have been made later by an individual expert or a company that catered to a niche market which preferred very modest styles of dress.

A red and white plaid gown that picks up on the Prairie style, but in a much more casual, carefree design reminiscent of the 1960’s. It’s probably made from cotton but I can’t be sure without the file in front of me and it could be cotton/poly blend. It was made in the 1980’s in West Germany. This is an example of trends jumping the oceans, usually years after they originally appeared in the Western nations. Although they’ve done their own take on the style, it’s exceptionally well-made, as goods from West Germany have always tended to be, in my experience.

A black and white floral print gown made in Hawaii. This one is from the 1980’s, give or take a decade and is the most elegant. Same deal about the fabric as in the previous dress. The style is pure average conservative, which makes it harder to date exactly. A pretty dress, but nothing distinctive about it excepting for excellent tailoring. It might have been a wardrobe item of someone who lived in Hawaii, purchased at a specialty shop stateside which carried Hawaiian garments or by someone who bought it while on vacation. Hawaiian-made gowns have been popular with women worldwide since the 1950’s, but earlier ones were usually made in more traditional Hawaiian style and, often, of Hawaiian fabric with traditional island prints. The more mainstream universal designs like this one came later.

The final dress is from the 1990’s. Always harder for me to think of as true vintage, but it is worthy because of the good tailoring, 100% cotton fabric and the retail designer label sold by a high-end department store in New York City. It’s got pedigree. Again, nothing notable about the style but it is very well-cut, which can make a world of difference in terms of how a dress fits. That’s one feature of even plain, rather boring vintage clothing items that can make them worth collecting and wearing. The style can always be elevated by adding accessories but one thing that always elevates any garment is how well it is made and how well it fits.

Tomorrow I’ll be showing a collection of dressy day-wear accessories from the 1960’s that fit the category of well-made, classic and designer items that can “make” an outfit. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID – LATE 1960’S LONG LEISURE DRESSES – MOD, WITCHY, ETHNIC

British influence Medieval/Victorian/Edwardian vibes, Op-Art, Flower Power and Indigenous influences allowed mainstream women to enjoy some “revolutionary” style during this transformative decade while not getting too far away from classic traditions. Plus the fact that they couldn’t have been more comfortable, convenient and flattering.

Fabulous sleeves, hand-done embroidery, geometric floral graphics. Love, love, love! Of course I had to collect these clues. Tomorrow we’ll step into the progression of this genre in examples from the Seventies, Eighties and Nineties. Stay tuned . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S LEISURE DRESSES – ALTERNATIVE STYLE FINDS THE MAINSTREAM

In the early 1960’s home-based seamstresses began making at-home leisure dresses. Velveteen was a popular fabric for hostess dresses that could work for cocktails with friends. An early flower-power dress in a traditional style was a more timid effort (looks like a vintage tablecloth) and a Mod print gown stepped firmly into the mid-decade. Washable cotton and blends made these easy-care garments and fashionable alternative styles for women who hadn’t been ready for 1950’s Boho or early ’60’s minis.

Tomorrow we’ll look at dresses from this genre that appeared later in the Sixties. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1950’S – MID-1960’S DRESSES

Late Fifties saw slinky knit sheath dresses that carried over the new, easy-care synthetics from the 1940’s. The prints morphed slowly from geometric, atomic shapes back to cute animals, fruits and veggies. This fabric is amazingly comfortable and drapes beautifully but was economical. Common, moderately-priced frocks were made from it.

Just a few years later, lace overlay became the big thing. Dressy day-dresses were often made from it, as well as semi-formal and formal gowns. These were also generally made from synthetic or blended fabrics but probably required dry-cleaning. Better frocks often came from British Hong Kong, where the design and hand-made tailoring made them exceptionally elegant and of higher quality. These dresses were still within the reach of middle-income ladies but were more expensive. See the black dressy sheath with a beaded over-blouse above. The straight black high-neck sheath came from Saks Fifth Avenue.

Then, again from the Brits, came Mary Quant’s Tent Dress in 1964. Although the Mod style had started in the 1950’s, it’s appearance in clothing was totally revolutionary. It brought with it radically shorter hemlines and easy-to-wear, casual shapes. See the light blue, home-sewn version above.

Some styles retained their classic, conservative lines and stuck to neutral or basic tones while bright colors became ever more popular, even in formal garments. While political and social movements became radicalized and changed society, the Hippie, Boho and Prairie styles started to take over in the late 1960’s and carried over into the early 1970’s. Tomorrow we’ll look at some of the ways that popular fashion incorporated these trends into mainstream dressing. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM