Category Archives: shoes

MORE NEW DISCOVERIES: TRUE VINTAGE CASUAL SHOES OF FINE LEATHER

Made in Brazil and Spain – in the 1980’s and 1990’s, two of the BEST places where great shoes and other leather goods were made. Italy and Portugal were also at the top of that list. These were made for well-known brands but small unbranded shoemakers (especially in Latin America and Europe) sold beautiful creations if you were able to find them. I knew immediately that these were vintage footwear pieces and that the quality would be outstanding. The truth, as always, is in the details and I have included photographs and descriptions of the most important ones.

The leather in the top-pictured flats is glove-soft. I adore the embroidered stars covering the vamps. The little finishing detail at the top of the heels was one sign of exceptional workmanship. I usually find this detail on well-made true vintage European footwear. These were made in Spain by Pikolinos, a family brand founded in 1984. Love the style!

The camel-colored flats with brown trim are made in an elegant style meant as a driving shoe (notice the extension of the sole material on the back of the heels). See the little stitching detail that secures the seam there, too, plus the brown trim which reinforces the heel opening but is also very stylish. On the edges of the vamps where the foot enters there are slim inserts of elastic material and elegant stitching detail. These shoes were made in Brazil for Naturalizer, a more common North American company which nevertheless made some excellent quality footwear, at least in the past.

Both these pairs of shoes have a hard but flexible vinyl/rubber sole that is very appropriate for street wear and resists damage. Again, they will last for decades longer. I couldn’t be happier to find these practical styles in one place! Stay tuned for the last installment of this most recent investigation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – TRUE VINTAGE BEAUTIFUL, HIGH QUALITY LEATHER BOOTS!

Love, love, love!!!!! Most likely from the 1980’s – maybe the 1990’s. Always one of my favorite finds (they fit!!!!!), and definitely keepers that will serve me well forever. These boots were made in Brazil of lovely, soft leather. The clues abound regarding their excellent pedigree:

1. The craftsmanship is exquisite: even, strong stitching with high quality elastic gussets that have held their shape and stretch. Notice the nice little tab at the back which looks good but also provides a gripping place to pull the boots on comfortably, without stretching that would pull them out of shape.

2. The soles and heels look very much like leather, which is always a plus because it can be repaired by a skilled shoemaker or shoe-repair technician, but instead are made of the wonderful Vibram-type material which came later in the mid-century and is virtually indestructible. The finish eventually wears off the soles but they don’t wear down as quickly as leather. Repair and replacement are hardly ever needed.

3, The heels are so well-crafted that they have the look of stacked leather, though they probably are not(?)

4. The Granny-style of the heels was fashionable at the time these were made but the overall design is perfectly classic and elegant. Despite the heel style these boots are wearable with most clothing types without looking dated and will continue to be in the future.

This investigation proved not only the age, origin and construction details of these boots, but also strong clues as to what class of person owned and wore them as well as the type of vendor which sold them originally. Although modern technology would allow a greater depth of detailed knowledge to be ascertained in a laboratory, I will leave those tasks to the forensic teams. For my purposes, the investigation is perfect and ends here, in my closet.

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As I’ve said before, I don’t support the markets for any type of animal skins (including fur) by buying newly-made products that involve the raising, hunting and slaughter of the animals who provide them. I also avoid products made from wool, down and other feathers and silk, which also involve animal cruelty. Collecting beautiful true vintage artifacts easily satisfies my curiosity and fulfills my needs.

As the marketplace continues to offer more alternatives, my diet and toiletries are always vegetarian and vegan whenever possible. Excellent alternatives to most products are available and the prices are constantly coming down. Now that cruelty-free hard goods (not food or other things that will spoil) have been in the marketplace for a few years, it’s increasingly possible to find them in places where previously used items are sold or traded. True vintage items may not have been made with an ethical mentality, but they don’t contribute to cruelty and abuse in the present. Secondhand purchases don’t give money to current unethical manufacturing processes or the people who sell them either, as long as you are not buying from the original producer or vendor. And, the older things are, the better the quality in most cases. What could be better?

This is just the beginning of my posts of recent discoveries. More are coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S – 1960’S DESIGNER AND HIGH-QUALITY ACCESSORIES

Now that we’ve reached the Spring Equinox, let’s start off with a Calvin Klein Easter hat in Spring pastels. A continuous flat tube of fabric is woven into a toque shape, overlaid with netting. A Mod-ern take on a traditional style. A lucky woman could look like an ice cream cone.

Some dressier handbags continued to be made of traditional tapestry-design fabric. Both of these above are small, one with a rigid leather-covered handle,, leather trim and metal feet on a covered metal frame. The other is a soft bag with a decorative closure and snake chain handle, sold with it’s own protective cover.

Classic pumps for everyday evolved in the early – mid 1960’s to mid-heel height with a slightly rounded toe but stilettos were still more popular than chunky heels – a necessary Rockabilly accessory. A pair of white pumps was an essential part of Spring – Summer wardrobes, even though pastels to match outfits and classic neutrals, beige, gray, navy, black and brown, still held their places. Miss Wonderful was a fun, mid-priced brand.

This has been a fun review of some of the files since December. Guests have arrived and international travel is looming. Daily transmissions over this airwave will be suspended, though periodic bulletins may continue. Archived posts in the public domain will remain available. Over . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1950’S DRESSY DAY-WEAR

Let’s start with this novel style by a famous French (undoubtedly Paris) designer. The knock-off pictured above was by Nelly Don, a well-known mid-century ladieswear label in the U.S. The belted sheath dress woven of substantial cotton or a blend has a wide detachable peplum which creates this avant garde silhouette. The French designer brought this luxury style out in 1952 and the mid-priced American version followed quickly.

A very pretty semi-sheer dress with a scarf neckline is unusual in an olive green and purple print which I love. Again, it’s belted and fitted as were most of the dresses of this time and follows a shirtdress style.

This green pencil skirt is made in a relatively briefly-used but popular fabric which consists of thin, rayon(?) ribbon that is coiled in a continuous design, appliqued onto another fabric base. Imagine it worn with a pretty, fitted blouse. I have a black skirt suit made in this fabric and a family member owned a short-sleeved dress in a gold color, back in the day.

The shirtwaist dress never lost it’s place and continued into the Fifties and beyond in fabrics which ranged from cotton and cotton blends to rayon and silk. The simplest daywear styles continued to be the housewife’s daily uniform. This one is a slightly upscaled version in a more complex print with embroidered trim and tucks.

This black and white dressed-up sundress would have been appropriate to go on a date, to the Ladies’ Club, Country Club or shopping in the city. It may have been custom-made, as women and professional tailors continued to use their skills this way though not as much out of necessity as during wartime. The Fifties were about being thrifty but also stylish and having more!

Shoe styles carried over from the 1940’s but with sleeker lines. Pumps were a bit more cutaway and more often had sling-backs. Soles and heels were slimmer. Peep toes continued, which I absolutely love. Hairstyles became smaller and neater again as did hats, which continued to be de rigueur for any well-dressed woman. Also, a pair of well-made gloves in a style which complemented your outfit and a short string of pearls with almost anything from casual to dressy outfits were considered to be necessities for elegant style. Handbags adopted many styles but here are a couple of semi-dressy designs that carry over the classic “tapestry” floral design and introduce the decorative metal frames and vinyl covering which began to be more popular.

Tomorrow we’ll stay in the same Forties to Fifties time-frame but focus on casual separates and trends. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE WONDERFUL TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S SPRING DAY DRESSES AND ACCESSORIES

Some of my very favorite frocks. Wonderful rayon and blended synthetics. Pretty cotton. One sheer, the others opaque and drapey. Don’t you love these prints? Atomic, abstract and floral – big wartime and post-war favorites. Here, also, are some of the handbags, scarves and pumps that might have been worn with them.

Iconic styles, rationing-compliant and “modern” plastic alternatives to leather and wool. Silk and silky synthetic scarves were constant purse accessories. A few items carry over from the 1930’s – a few point toward popular styles as we go into the 1950’s. Since we’ve had such a long, cold winter, tomorrow I will show a few of the coats and outdoor accessories which might have accompanied 1940’s dresses outside the home. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LATE 1930’S DAY AND DRESSIER FROCK and ACCESSORIES

Too many photos to do both decades together! I’ll spread them out over 2 or 3 days instead. Here are a couple of pretty 1930’s frocks and their accompaniments. First, one that our Depression Era gal might have worn to town. Perfect for shopping and a movie. It’s a lovely crocheted lace over-dress with a matching acetate satin slip underneath. Look at the celluloid belt buckle, also died to match.

The second dress is a rayon sheath with an over-blouse look and Art Deco beaded decoration. She might have worn it to cocktails, dinner and dancing later. Probably, the hemline would have been midi-length on her figure. An acetate slip underneath would have enhanced the fit and it has such unusual decoration on the bodice.

No matter where she was going, she might have carried a chatelaine rouge and powder compact and an antique needlepoint handbag. The clutch above also has a celluloid closure on the metal frame. The pot metal charm bracelet for daytime has European coins and Depression Era male figures dangling – a soldier, a laborer and a tycoon.

Pretty but practical shoes made for walking and dancing – and, of course, she can’t go anywhere without her 1930’s Zippo lighter. She’ll want to visit the smoking lounge during the movie matinee’.

Late Thirties – Forties tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1960’S FASHION TRENDS – MOD HEADS INTO THE 1970’S

Britain continued to lead the fashion trends in the late ’60’s and it seems to me that their influence strengthened during these years as the Carnaby Street styles showed up. Mod and ultra mini began to slow down with a strong Edwardian/Victorian/Hippie wave predominating. Psychedelic and paisley prints were super popular, even on higher-end classic styles. Long bell sleeves showed up a lot. Ruffled, high-collar blouses and men’s neckties for women were fun fads. Platform soles went out (for a while) in favor of mid-heel pumps with high vamps and rounded toes. LifeStride, a popular mid-priced U.S. brand got into the trend with the example shown above.

Knee-length, midi and full-length hemlines came on the scene again, especially on more conservative and higher-end dresses. Though some minis were still worn, the hippie-styles usually had ankle-length skirts. While Carnaby Street fashions passed by, the long hippie/Victorian looks drifted into the early 1970’s. If you have followed me, you might remember a few of my posts earlier this year covering vintage Prom dresses that showed early 1970’s Victorian/Prairie designs in that mix.

There was a lot more, however, to the early 1970’s fashion designs. We’ll start looking at the Seventies tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

6 PRETTY TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSES WITH ’80’S DOES ’40’S WEDGE-HEEL SANDALS

A knee-length synthetic (probably acetate blend) coral red frock from the early 1940’s has augmented shoulders, a straight cut and a fabric-covered belt with some glass beads to dress it up. In the post-war Forties, hemlines were able to come down again and skirts became fuller. The knee-length wartime styles were able to resume their previous midi-length luxury. Rayons and polyester synthetics continued their popularity because of their availability, lovely drape and acceptance of color dyes. During the early recovery from the war, some natural fabrics and detail items were still not fully stocked in dressmaking supplies.

The ever-popular shirtwaist style has never left the fashion scene but became more modern, with atomic prints, and more sophisticated design in the later ’40’s after women had stepped into more visible roles in society with their wartime efforts. When the majority of the trauma and restrictions were finally past, this tea-length floral frock is an example of a more relaxed, aristocratic style as the culture looked forward to the more prosperous 1950’s.

With day-dresses to slacks, I love wedgie sandals and these Eighties does Forties versions did not disappoint me. Their sleek leather sling-back style goes well with almost everything and the 2″ heel gives lift along with walkability. This design carried on into the 1950’s and would look great with the dresses I’ll post tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE DAY DRESSES THROUGH THE DECADES, HANDBAGS AND SHOES – 1930’s

Two of my favorite 1930’s dresses to wear and one when I feel like Bonnie of Bonnie and Clyde. The fabrics feel so wonderful on the body and the fit is killer because of the fabulous drape. An earlier find, I was thrilled to discover the blue dress because of it’s condition. The original buttons and belt are present and no damage to the trim at the neckline. Also, no stains! You can see that the body of the dress has faded a bit due to years of washing by the original owner (compare to the color of the belt, which would not have been put in the laundry), but I don’t mind. The floral-print yellow and green frock is near-perfect and is a bit more casual. Super easy-breezy. The crocheted dress with satiny rayon slip given to me by a family member who found it in an old antique wardrove is the real star. It still has the authentic celluloid plastic belt buckle. The longer hemline makes it probably the oldest of the group, from the very early ’30’s. I have to include a 1980’s or ’90’s dress that dipped into a retro 1930’s. The yellow rayon belted sheath is a fun fashion with loyalty to the Thirties style and lovely rayon fabric.

These are both mid-priced dresses, at most, but have held up over 70 years before finding their way into my closet. It’s possible they were home-sewn. I love the elbow-length sleeves and the way that the fabric causes the hemline to ripple and sway. Very flattering. Both do require a slip underneath because of the sheerness and, since they are warmer weather frocks, I like to wear a true vintage cotton slip with very little decoration so that it doesn’t show through and compete with the print. Slips of that sort are hard to find since most of the slips that have survived are made of nylon and full of decorative detail. Although some fabrics don’t seem to require a slip, wearing one often causes the dress to fit and move so much better. Your other foundation garments i.e. brassiere, underpants and even stockings will have a real effect on how your outfit looks so it’s an important consideration. I have silk tap pants and some silk slips from the pre-war and WWII era that are good examples of undergarments that work really well with dresses like these.

Mary Jane style shoes are seen in every decade since the 1920’s. Decorated flats became popular for women, too, especially when they began wearing slacks. The shoes shown above may be a little younger than the dresses and purses, but are still within a decade or so. Handbags woven from synthetic yarn were another way that the market for clothing and accessories coped with the economic downturn of the Depression and the looming rationing of wartime. Leather, silk, quality cotton and wool were less available and too expensive for many buyers. The big move forward in the development of synthetics changed clothing in big ways, many having to do with fit, comfort and convenience so, overall, the deprivation turned out to be a plus. Tomorrow we move into the 1940’s. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

OUR MID-CENTURY GAL NEEDS TO PACK SOME DRESSES AND THEIR ACCESSORIES FOR HER VACATION

Okay. She’s got to be prepared for attending some dinner or event that is a little more dressy even though spending all her time on the beach and the boardwalk is the best. Pretty 1950’s and early 1960’s sundresses will allow her to be appropriate while also bending to her casual style. A more sophisticated purse and low-heel Mary Janes go to town or a restaurant very properly. This decorated tote bag is a fashion statement of the time that is very practical for shopping.

In spite of the extra travel case for her roller skates, our girl will be able to finish packing this travel wardrobe in one suitcase. Several things can be worn on the plane, ’cause it looks like she’s going to fly. When she gets there, she’ll probably come back with some purchases and will have to buy a beach hat. Maybe we’ll get a chance to see her purchases when she comes home. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM