Category Archives: European

PRETTY WHITE COTTON MINI FROM MID-CENTURY EUROPE

While I’m missing Stella (my fabulous vintage mannequin model), please use your imagination to visualize how fun and flattering this mini-dress or tunic looks when it’s on. Without my honed sleuthing skills, I never would have found it and am so glad that I did. As a mini-dress (if you don’t mind the side slits showing your whole leg almost to the hip) it’s really cute and calls for a 1960’s/’70’s chain belt to finish it off. As a swimsuit cover-up or beach dress it would be perfect – cool, crisp and lightweight while giving some reasonable sun protection. Over a pair of skinny white pants or shorts I LOVE IT!! Also love the elbow-length sleeves and unusually-shaped neckline.

How do I know it’s from Europe? The size label tells me. How do I know that it’s true vintage? By my guesstimate, a European size 42 would always be too big for me, but I look great in this whether worn as a mini-dress or a tunic over pants. So, the cut seems to be smaller than a modern garment of that size would be. This is always tricky with international sizing, but I think I’m correct. The fabric is a nicely-woven cotton with some weight (but not too much for Summer) and all-over floral embroidery – similar to vintage fabrics that are almost never seen now. Also, the interior tailoring is different from what I find on modern garments. Not fine tailoring, because this is a very simple garment and probably sold at a lower price. However, some of the finishing is remarkable – if it did not have a size label, I might say that it had been home-sewn. It has darts in back to give it extra fit and style. The size label, printed rather than embroidered, is sewn in at the back neckline and there are no other tags at all.

All right, the verdict is in. This dress is probably from the 1970’s, give or take 5 years. Allowances have to be made for the overseas manufacture. Whatever it’s exact heritage, it’s wonderful and I will really enjoy it. I love solving mysteries but an open-ended investigation is always intriguing. Who knows – sometimes I solve a cold case years later! You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSY DRESSES FROM AFTER THE WAR YEARS

Here’s another group of finds that were fabulous. Let’s look at the details on these frocks, which were over-the-top when wartime rationing was no more and fashion was ready for a break-out right before the New Look. Lots of glitz – rhinestone buttons, metallic thread, sequins, beads, lots of little buttons and velvet. Hemlines went down again. Rayon reigned – it had become the darling of fabrics.

There was certainly an element of weirdness to some of these designs. The last two black dresses were discovered in Montevideo, Uruguay and had been made by specialty dressmakers. Many of their wardrobe items in that city came from France, and I suspect that there is a lot of European influence in these styles.

The top two designs are squarely U.S. American and the tag on the dress with the big velvet bow indicates that it was made by a company that was producing affordable garments, probably during the early recovery from wartime. The navy blue dress was higher-end and looks so much like the costumes seen in late 1940’s film noir.

Tomorrow we’ll look at some examples of how 1940’s dress styles have persisted during the following decades. Stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

A FEW TRUE VINTAGE MEN’S SWEATERS, WOOL SHIRT AND 2 JACKETS FROM THE 1960’S AND 1970’S

Here are a few of the iconic everyday styles seen frequently in menswear from the early 1960’s until the mid 1970’s. The 1970’s styles, shown in the center panel, are still probably in production. Cardigans and pullovers have been popular for men at least since the 1940’s. The styles produced in the 1940’s and 1950’s were most interesting, with colorful knitted-in patterns and leather inserts.

In the top panel, first shown is a woolen knit cardigan with embossed metallic buttons. It’s an imported European style. Second is a wool shirt, which has been a cold-weather casual staple for men for decades. The Henley neckline closure makes this one unique. After that, an iconic suede leather jacket with sweater-knit collar and sleeves. I have several of these in the archives, in different earth-tone colors. They are beautiful pieces which have, surprisingly, survived the decades in excellent condition. Next are 2 plain, standard cardigans which have been a part of almost every older man’s wardrobe (often with leather elbow patches) and younger mens’, too, especially when they have been designed as golf sweaters. The first, with patch pockets, is made of wool and is older – probably 1960’s. The second, in burgundy, is acrylic knit as is the light blue Izod V-neck. Standard 1970’s construction and fabric.

Finally, I picked this iconic Ted Williams hunting jacket to include in the post. Ted Williams was a famous baseball player and lent his name to this jacket sold by Sears & Roebuck in the early 1960’s. The label tells the marketing story and you can see the heavy knitted neckline. Cuffs are made of the same material. In front, the jacket zips and has standard-looking pockets. I have shown the back view because the rear “game pocket” is most visible. It extends across the lower back and opens with a zipper on both sides.

This find was an education for me, as I’d never heard of Ted Williams or seen this type of jacket before. What great clues in any investigation! Women’s styles tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

More Wedding Dresses through the Mid-Century

Here’s a beautiful example of an ensemble from 1940. It’s a long way from June now, but weddings know no real season so it’s great to feature them alongside their sisters, the formal and semi-formal dresses. I know some of this one’s history because I was able to get it from the bride’s daughter. She told me that her mother had purchased it from Eaton’s, which was a well-known department store chain in Canada, sadly closed in the 1990’s or early 2000’s. I also think that there’s an interior tag indicating that it had been made in Europe.

So beautiful with the veil but the dress alone is stunning. Heavy ivory-color fabric – probably a type of rayon. Classic long sleeves that make it a 3-season gown. This was before Canada and the U.S. joined the Allies in WWII, so materials were not heavily rationed even though we had just emerged from the Depression of the 1930’s.

A couple of brownish age spots are the only signs of wear or damage. It’s so wonderful to discover a piece like this, also with background information that makes the investigation so much easier to report. Stay tuned for more transmissions . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

3 SOPHISTICATED AND CHIC LATE 1950’S / EARLY 1960’S CAR COATS IN FINE SUEDE WITH MINK

3 SOPHISTICATED AND CHIC LATE 1950'S / EARLY 1960'S CAR COATS IN FIND SUEDE WITH MINK

Here are three iconic coats from the Kennedy era that take the car coat to another level. But, despite the somewhat dressy mink collars, they have a sporty, European look and should get a lot of play in a true vintage wardrobe.  With slacks or boots, beautiful leather gloves and a fedora they look fabulous on the street.  Or, worn over a dress with heels to dinner or another dress-up event.

Quite popular in their era and in a variety of colors – I usually find earth tones like beige, browns, rust, gray, and moss green.  The suede leather is always of wonderful quality, with fine grain, great color saturation and a soft, velvety finish. The styles vary slightly – collars can often be easily removed if you’d rather wear a scarf.  Next time I photograph these, I want to show them with accessories.

The great thing about these, to me, is the simple, chic Jackie O styling that looks wonderful over casual or dressy day-wear – dresses, skirts, slacks, or jeans – and transitions into evening with easy elegance. I think they’ve been FAR under-rated and deserve a frequent place in the spot-light.

So, while you’re at it, get some true vintage kidskin gloves to wear with them. Find a coat with 3/4 sleeves – fabulous with longer gloves . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

 

TRUE VINTAGE CLASSIC COTTON SUMMER BLOUSE

IMG_1486 IMG_1487I’ve left the shirt un-ironed to show that it is 100% cotton, rather than poly or a blend.  And the feel of true vintage cotton – so soft and wonderful after being washed, worn and loved for a while!

The close-up shows some of the detail that covers the front, with tucks and crocheted lace.  A 1/2 inch ruffle goes all the way around the hem.  Few blouses made in the U.S. have this amount of gorgeous, high quality decoration – even the old ones!

For that reason, I wonder if this one was made in Europe where they routinely made glorious cotton garments like this one – maybe still do . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

ANOTHER ITALIAN CUTIE – TRUE VINTAGE HANDMADE SUMMER PURSE FROM THE 1960’S

ANOTHER ITALIAN CUTIE - TRUE VINTAGE HANDMADE SUMMER PURSE FROM THE 1960'S

Woven raffia bag with beaded decoration. One old feature that is fun to find once in a while – a snap purse compartment which is a part of the lining. I’ve pulled it up so that you can see it.

This is pure fun and frivolity, in a refined and European way. Perfect with my bright yellow sundress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RECENT FIND! SLING-BACK PEEP-TOE PUMPS MADE BY AN ITALIAN COMPANY – VINTAGE 1950’S

RECENT FIND! SLING-BACK PEEP-TOE PUMPS MADE BY AN ITALIAN COMPANY - VINTAGE 1950'S

Hardly worn, by Corelli, an Italian company that has been making footwear at least since the 1950’s, it’s not clear exactly when these were made.  Some of the techniques are vintage by our standards, but European shoes – especially by a traditional maker – are probably made to a different (and higher) standard than in the U.S., with more things hand-done.

I’m not going to quibble on these.  Cute 1950’s style, high quality and they fit!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE HIGH-HEEL STILETTO PUMPS FROM THE UK: A CLASSIC WARDROBE STAPLE 1940’S – 1950’S

TRUE VINTAGE HIGH-HEEL STILETTO PUMPS FROM THE UK: A CLASSIC WARDROBE STAPLE

According to moi, one can never own too many pairs of beautiful pumps.  They can be worn with almost anything, are easy to walk and dance in and are tremendously flattering to most women.  Some lucky girls look just as good in anything, wearing flats, but most legs and overall stature are improved by the height and lift provided by a heel.

This pair are sturdy, standard issue, with no particular brand name (I’m not altogether familiar with branding in the UK).  The important thing is the cut and the materials, which are both exceptional.  Though it’s hard to see in the photo, there is a black leather detail on the outside vamp.  Love it!

I’ll have these for decades. The mid-high heel is very versatile and the neutral brown is good any time of year.  Looks great with white and beige in the summer.  I found them in Canada, where British goods are more common, but I find items made all over the world in places far from their origin. That is half the fun and excitement of the hunt. As always, you just never know . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A SPECIAL FIND FOR WINTER NIGHTS

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Here we have a Lanz Originals cotton flannel gown from the 1960’s.  Yes, the hearts & flowers print is too sweet but for this kind of quality and warmth, I bit and bought.  I always trust their true vintage clothing to be well-made and classic – in fact, they’re very traditional.  Not my favorite, but on a blustery winter night by the fire . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM