Category Archives: dance

TRUE VINTAGE HOME-SEWN LATE 1960’S – EARLY 1970’S ANSWER TO THE LBD

OK, now we find ourselves in about 1968 – 1972. Culture has changed big-time since 1963. Before the Prairie-style trend of the early – mid 1970’s, there was a heavy swing to Medieval and Edwardian style with lots of crushed velvet, panne’ velvet, pirate sleeves, ruffled cuffs and braided trim. This little black dress which was made at home has most of those features, plus a mini hemline and an elasticized waistline but otherwise is styled more like a tunic. No embellishment excepting for the gold braid around the neckline. Hardly a cocktail dress. I’m guessing that some teen girl might have worn it to her high school homecoming dance.

Fashion follows culture and history. The neat, feminine and careful tailoring of the 1940’s – early 1960’s kind of went out the window in favor of looser silhouettes and flowing skirts. Some commercially-produced dresses were less casual but younger women tended to prefer the bohemian look. As often happens, the Prairie style that followed in the early 1970’s, with its long skirts, tight bodices and cinched waists was a reactionary swing toward conservatism that entered pop culture under the radar. Most women didn’t realize that popular fashion reflected a wish to put women back into a social role from the past. However, some women got it. During the early 1970’s there was also a style trend toward 1940’s fashion – a time when women broke out of traditional roles to enter the workplace as part of the war effort during WW2. Remember Rosie the Riveter.

The push for women’s equal rights made great strides during the decade of the 1970’s. But, we now know that those gains may have made us complacent and that we can’t afford to be.

Tomorrow we’ll visit the 1980’s and explore these clues a little farther. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S UP-SCALE LBD – SO PRETTY!

“Daring” spaghetti straps, the ubiquitous ’50’s/’60’s grosgrain ribbon bow and a tiered skirt that harks back to the 1940’s plus a solidly early Sixties below-the-knee hemline. Youthful, attractive, classic and conservative at the same time. Looks like this designer was being experimental while styles were shifting. I’d say it was a success!

This is a very well-tailored semi-formal dinner/dance/cocktail frock, probably sold at a department store which carried upscale goods or a smaller women’s boutique. Crepe fabric which drapes beautifully, a well-fitting cut, elegant simplicity with the surprisingly unexpected skirt. A very “modern” design. A first step toward Mod, which wasn’t as avant garde or counter-culture as the styles which followed in the mid to late 1960’s. We’ll keep stepping along the path tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SPARKLEY 1950’S EARLY 1960’S PARTY DRESS

Nobody who matters will take issue with the fact that this dress is not black. The mauve lurex thread on a black background is gorgeous. Enjoy your martini and party on.

Jacquard fabric with a glossy finish was very popular at this time for special occasion frocks. Nipped waists and full-ish skirts carried on, though the slinky sheath never goes out of style. Demure and more daring aspects of design often appear on the same dress, as seen in the neckline and closely fitted torso here, paired with a skirt that hides the shape of the legs. Fashion that sends two messages, especially for women, always makes social life more complicated but has usually been the direction of women’s clothing style. Maybe we’re starting to get away from that now?

At any rate, hemlines are changing again and the midi will soon be OUT. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S FUR-TRIMMED SEMI-FORMAL DRESS

Not a cocktail style, though it belongs in the line-up. This is such a distinctive tailoring style – I’ve got at least 6 garments dating from the 1930’s to Fifties or early Sixties with fur-trimmed sleeves. In the early ’60’s and into the ’70’s the trim also showed up on hems. The same type of glossy jacquard fabric is used here as in the dress shown yesterday, but I suspect that this special-occasion frock was made for a girl or young woman. Maybe for a party, maybe for an “event”. Might even have been home-sewn. Fabric shops used to carry trims of all kinds. This looks like rabbit fur.

My feeling is that this style was really a fad, although it kept cropping up. Popular, in it’s way, but only for a smaller segment of the market. Not the same as fur collars on coats, which has been a standard for many centuries. I suppose that fur has been a trademark of luxury and wealth throughout history. If a designer wanted to create an upscale look, fur trim might be chosen. Thank goodness, now we can have the authentic look without the cruelty.

Tomorrow another garment of this design, in a really impractical example. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEATO! STELLA’S GOING TO THE HOP

What fun! Taking a break with friends from the regular Headquarters routine (but a Sleuth is a Sleuth 24/7) and what did I discover? This repro poodle circle skirt would be great for a costume anytime, but especially right about now. It was homemade, probably for exactly that purpose, so I’ll be donating it to the University theater but along with my FABULOUS find, it’s blog-worthy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Although I have some new-vintage re-do’s, an authentic pair of 1940’s – 1950’s saddle shoes has been on my radar for years. Look what I found!! In my size!!!

Spent yesterday afternoon wearing them around the house and they are SO comfortable. Older well-made footwear was built to last and usually fit well, too. Although these were just the daily, non-special go-to for teens and many adults and were undoubtedly moderately priced, the quality is built in. Even the messy polishing effort gives them the best street creds. I’m over the moon.

However, that wasn’t the end of the story. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

THE “LBD” FROM THE 1920’S AND 1930’S

These two are certainly not designs by Coco Chanel, who came up with the Little Black Dress in 1926, but they still might have been seen at a cocktail party. They’re both oh-so-proper in spite of the loosening restrictions on women’s dress that were happening after the Edwardian 1910’s. The dress on the left, from the Thirties, is not terribly interesting to me but the bodice has those Deco-style pleats in the sheer lace panel that elevate the whole design. It was so amazing to discover it with the original floral ornament in front.

The midi-tea length lace dress from the 1920’s is pretty and would be very swishy over a rayon slip worn underneath. It was discovered in an antique wardrobe at a farm sale. The dropped waist is iconic. This frock was meant for a dressy special occasion rather than a night dancing the Charleston in a speakeasy.

How amazing it was discovering these pieces in such wonderful condition after almost 100 years! Most textile clues don’t last as well over so many decades but there are more to come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FUN TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S POST-WAR NIGHTCLUB DANCE DRESS

I’m back in black today, but more color coming. I really loved discovering this frock in Texas. Sold by an upscale privately-owned clothing company that had it’s own label. The trim is black velvet tube ribbon and the skirt is made for swingin’ and swayin’. Perfect for wearing to any dance hall or vibrant party, and we know that Texans love to party!

It’s got ruching on the sleeves, which was a favorite ’40’s tailoring feature. Nipped waist and wide skirt plus a midi hem puts in firmly in the post-war time frame. So much fun to discover – a fun dress from a very jubilant time in history. More Forties fashion coming, but dressing it up with an international twist. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

START OF A SERIES: TRUE VINTAGE PIECES FOR COOL, DRESSY EVENINGS

We’re now heading into the season for indoor parties, special occasions and events after the long, lovely summer; Cocktail parties, dinners, dances, recitals, holiday galas – you name it. I’ll be starting a series of posts of pretty, dressy and semi-formal garments in my collection from the 1950’s – 1990’s which will take us into the Fall and even Winter. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LADIES’ DRESSY AND FORMAL – WEAR FROM THE EARLY 1950’S

From cocktail party to Prom to a wedding, these dresses and separates went to many swanky events. A sparkly bling necklace and earrings were a necessity, too. Stiletto pumps became the hugely big footwear trend for women.

Jacquard “brocade”, satin, lace, metallic thread, organza and netting, cashmere, beads and sequins and even fur trimming – all popular materials in garments for nights out and special events. The prosperity of the Fifties brought on a real break-out in middle-class spending and ostentation. Showy was good but, fortunately, so was elegance so we had some of the most beautiful gowns produced during this time. Female movie stars of this decade were some of the best-dressed women ever seen. The first dress pictured, with the fur-trimmed sleeves, is a gorgeous example of the New Look style. Fun and novelty were also present in many examples of the more casual clothing but the cheap-looking garishness of the 1990’s was not the thing.

I love these clothes and it’s fun to show them. All would have fascinating stories. The elegance of design showed up in dressy daywear, too, and I’ll be showing some of that tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1970’S – 1990’S DOES 1940’S. TRUE VINTAGE RETRO DRESSES AND JUMPSUITS.

The Seventies, Eighties and Nineties produced a lot of popular retail styles that imitated 1940’s designs. Some were very well done and others not so much, to be charitable. As I’ve said, it’s hard for me to call these decades true vintage but, technically, they are. The two purses echoing shapes and tapestry design popular in the Forties might have shown up in the 1960’s.

All of these could be fun and the reproduction details became best during the mid-1980’s but, unfortunately, modern polyester fabrics and production techniques lowered the quality a lot. No valid comparison, in my opinion, to true vintage from the 1940’s – even the home-sewn versions that were made from older clothing during rationing.

Of this group, the best-made is the black velveteen custom-tailored frock from the 1980’s or 1990’s. It was made by an expert seamstress and is worthy of being called a reproduction in the Post-war New Look style. The retail day-dresses are versatile and the prints are great – pretty faithful to authentic ones that I’ve come across. I always love the padded shoulders and cinched waistlines that are very flattering but were also a nod to the style of military uniforms. Jumpsuits were just for fun in the Seventies, but always are inconvenient. I suspect that the jumpsuits worn by women working in the war effort during the Forties had drop seats, which makes it a little bit better. I do have a pair of high-waisted slacks from the ’40’s that have an ingeniously-designed drop seat that looks quite good.

So, these clues were fun to find and seemed worthy of collection though I always prefer the real deal. Speaking of which, I just came across another archived file of true vintage 1940’s dresses which I will show tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM