Category Archives: classic clothing

FALL IS COMING! IT’S TIME TO PULL OUT MY ICONIC 1960’S SUEDE LEATHER CAR COAT

So many mid-century gals had a similar coat when John F. Kennedy was president. This one is a well-made daily-wear style that goes with almost anything. It has a rayon satin lining that doesn’t make it too warm in mild weather, but I have seen and own examples with pile liners which usually zip out. Quality mid-century clothing was ingenious, stylish and practical.

Although 3/4 sleeves might seem awkward on a coat, they were a BIG fashion feature at that time and look SO GREAT with gloves that are longer. It’s always worth collecting true vintage gloves that are almost elbow-length; not the kind that are worn with evening dresses, but beautiful, tailored gloves of vintage kidskin. Knitted or cloth gloves would also work with this jacket in a casual mood because it’s so versatile. I love it here with my 1980’s Western-style suede skirt.

Huge plastic buttons were also a common feature on coats from the years before and after 1960 and would often give major giveaways about the garment. In general, the quality of the buttons reflected the overall quality of the coat. Detailed, sculpted buttons were very interesting and showed that a coat was not a bargain item. Sometimes they even had inlaid pieces of different colors or faux gems like “pearls” or rhinestones. A dressy coat might have buttons like that even though the coat style was very tailored. In this case, you see tailored elegance on a mid-priced garment that would last for many years.

I love Fall and, since the weather is changing, I’ll have to trot out a lot of clothing that has been in storage – maybe even open some of the archives . .. . …. . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LAST CHANCE TO WEAR MY 1960’S KENNEDY ERA SUMMER PUMPS!

It’s almost Labor Day, OMG!! According to the North American dress codes of the 1960’s, wearing white or shoes with cutouts like these pale beige ones after Labor Day would have been a traditional fashion faux pas (in other words, big “no, no”); an embarrassing mistake that spoke to your lack of fashion sense.

With great respect to individual and cultural standards of proper dress and modesty, thank goodness those rules no longer apply in general! Unlike our grandmothers and maybe our mothers, we can wear white and pastels whenever we want to!! We can also wear black to a wedding, white or bright colors to a funeral, slacks anywhere, sleeveless blouses anytime, shorts and sandals year-round, weather permitting. Good taste and elegance are, of course, another matter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

In 1960’s shoes like these, our grannies wouldn’t face the Fashion Police in any way. They’re exceptionally well-made (how could they have lasted so long if not?), color is pretty universal and not offensive, style is modest and mainstream and they’re comfortable for walking. Not my favorite style, but worth collecting.

That said, I much prefer the 1980’s Italian-made sandals discovery that I just posted a few days ago – interesting design, great quality, elegant and versatile style and much more flattering. But, hey, we don’t have any lock on that in the more recent decades. Fabulous avante garde and va-va-voom styles have been produced at least for the past 100 years. I should review the archives ……

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL LEATHER SHOES MADE IN ITALY – 1980’S & 1990’S

What could be better for Summer? Love these sling-back sandals with the sculpted stacked leather heel. The soles are Elastane, which was a “new” material introduced in the 1970’s and was very popular for it’s flexibility. I’m dating this pair from the 1980’s. Very city chic, yet casual.

These color-block flats make me think of something Audrey Hepburn might have worn in the the classic movie Roman Holiday, from the early 1960’s. They are by Enzo Angiolini, an Italian designer brand which was very popular in the U.S. during the 1990’s. I believe that they are 100% leather shoes, excepting for the heel caps. This is always a sign of higher-end footwear, if the workmanship is good.

Both pairs have been lovingly cared for and show light wear, considering their age. Even better, they are in my size. Who knows what streets and alleyways these shoes may have walked? Good chance some of them were in Europe. They still have more stories to tell, and I always love a mystery . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stay tuned. The jewelry is even better.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE GREAT TRUE VINTAGE FINDS – POSSIBLY SPANNING 50 YEARS!

Italian leather shoes and mid-century jewels! I’ll post the discoveries on the weekend. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE NEW DISCOVERIES: TRUE VINTAGE CASUAL SHOES OF FINE LEATHER

Made in Brazil and Spain – in the 1980’s and 1990’s, two of the BEST places where great shoes and other leather goods were made. Italy and Portugal were also at the top of that list. These were made for well-known brands but small unbranded shoemakers (especially in Latin America and Europe) sold beautiful creations if you were able to find them. I knew immediately that these were vintage footwear pieces and that the quality would be outstanding. The truth, as always, is in the details and I have included photographs and descriptions of the most important ones.

The leather in the top-pictured flats is glove-soft. I adore the embroidered stars covering the vamps. The little finishing detail at the top of the heels was one sign of exceptional workmanship. I usually find this detail on well-made true vintage European footwear. These were made in Spain by Pikolinos, a family brand founded in 1984. Love the style!

The camel-colored flats with brown trim are made in an elegant style meant as a driving shoe (notice the extension of the sole material on the back of the heels). See the little stitching detail that secures the seam there, too, plus the brown trim which reinforces the heel opening but is also very stylish. On the edges of the vamps where the foot enters there are slim inserts of elastic material and elegant stitching detail. These shoes were made in Brazil for Naturalizer, a more common North American company which nevertheless made some excellent quality footwear, at least in the past.

Both these pairs of shoes have a hard but flexible vinyl/rubber sole that is very appropriate for street wear and resists damage. Again, they will last for decades longer. I couldn’t be happier to find these practical styles in one place! Stay tuned for the last installment of this most recent investigation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – TRUE VINTAGE BEAUTIFUL, HIGH QUALITY LEATHER BOOTS!

Love, love, love!!!!! Most likely from the 1980’s – maybe the 1990’s. Always one of my favorite finds (they fit!!!!!), and definitely keepers that will serve me well forever. These boots were made in Brazil of lovely, soft leather. The clues abound regarding their excellent pedigree:

1. The craftsmanship is exquisite: even, strong stitching with high quality elastic gussets that have held their shape and stretch. Notice the nice little tab at the back which looks good but also provides a gripping place to pull the boots on comfortably, without stretching that would pull them out of shape.

2. The soles and heels look very much like leather, which is always a plus because it can be repaired by a skilled shoemaker or shoe-repair technician, but instead are made of the wonderful Vibram-type material which came later in the mid-century and is virtually indestructible. The finish eventually wears off the soles but they don’t wear down as quickly as leather. Repair and replacement are hardly ever needed.

3, The heels are so well-crafted that they have the look of stacked leather, though they probably are not(?)

4. The Granny-style of the heels was fashionable at the time these were made but the overall design is perfectly classic and elegant. Despite the heel style these boots are wearable with most clothing types without looking dated and will continue to be in the future.

This investigation proved not only the age, origin and construction details of these boots, but also strong clues as to what class of person owned and wore them as well as the type of vendor which sold them originally. Although modern technology would allow a greater depth of detailed knowledge to be ascertained in a laboratory, I will leave those tasks to the forensic teams. For my purposes, the investigation is perfect and ends here, in my closet.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _

As I’ve said before, I don’t support the markets for any type of animal skins (including fur) by buying newly-made products that involve the raising, hunting and slaughter of the animals who provide them. I also avoid products made from wool, down and other feathers and silk, which also involve animal cruelty. Collecting beautiful true vintage artifacts easily satisfies my curiosity and fulfills my needs.

As the marketplace continues to offer more alternatives, my diet and toiletries are always vegetarian and vegan whenever possible. Excellent alternatives to most products are available and the prices are constantly coming down. Now that cruelty-free hard goods (not food or other things that will spoil) have been in the marketplace for a few years, it’s increasingly possible to find them in places where previously used items are sold or traded. True vintage items may not have been made with an ethical mentality, but they don’t contribute to cruelty and abuse in the present. Secondhand purchases don’t give money to current unethical manufacturing processes or the people who sell them either, as long as you are not buying from the original producer or vendor. And, the older things are, the better the quality in most cases. What could be better?

This is just the beginning of my posts of recent discoveries. More are coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MY VERY LATEST FIND: A PAIR OF ICONIC KENNEDY-ERA GLOVES. TOO SPECIAL TO PASS UP . . . . . . .

Who doesn’t have mid-century white wrist-length gloves passed down by the older women in their families? I’ve got a collection, both of “heritage” gloves and those that I’ve discovered during past investigations. Cotton, leather, suede, synthetic – I’ve kept only the best of the best. Like handkerchiefs and little hats, these gloves were ubiquitous – every woman had them because in the late 1950’s through the early 1960’s they were mandatory when you left the house. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy made them a true fashion statement that no well-dressed woman would be seen without.

So, a ton of them have been out in the vintage marketplace even though they’re not a wardrobe staple anymore. But, wait . . . . . . . . gloves, in general, are definitely a wardrobe staple and these are PERFECT! What do you wear with a white jacket or coat on a cool day? How do you save your white leather gloves from getting dirty? Beautifully hand-tailored gloves like these are a great alternative. Even if you’re not wearing an early ’60’s dress, these are classic enough to wear with anything, including slacks.

Other factors which made these a catch, besides their beauty, and caused me to pick them up: 1. The synthetic fabric – probably nylon or a nylon blend – has stretch which makes them super comfortable and flexible as well as giving a good fit. 2. This type of fabric washes well, similar to nylon lingerie slips. You can even wash them in hot water if you need to and as long as the decoration will tolerate it (but those buttons can easily be detached for laundering and re-sewn on). 3. This is maybe the BIGGEST PLUS – like nylon slips, in my experience, they take dye very well and can be dyed to match anything you’d like!!!

That’s my very latest find and I was thrilled to discover them. You just never know! Now, I only have to decide on the color . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE UNUSUAL MID-CENTURY MEN’S LEATHER BILLFOLD

Here’s my next deja’ vu find – similar but completely different from the wallet found and posted two weeks ago. This well-made billfold is very unique, also with tooled details but very different from the other’s style. The decoration almost makes you think that it could have been designed for women, but I’m going to stick with the conclusion that it was made for men because it is so slim. Women’s true vintage billfolds generally are much thicker and were meant to be carried inside a purse rather than in a pocket. However, I’ll happily use it! Another similarity to the wallet shown two weeks ago is the unusual coin-purse inside. What a surprise to find this feature again! One of the most frustrating things about men’s wallets is no good place to put coins and other small items. What could be more practical for a man or a woman? No more holes in pants pockets from digging for the loose coins at the bottom!

It’s made by another iconic brand – Toolcraft, made in Canada. As I always say, I can’t send enough love for the quality of goods made before about 1970. Also, lots of love to the women, and men, who valued quality over quantity and took care with their possessions so that they would truly last for decades as opposed to the culture we have today which just produces mountains of trash.

OK, enough of that because a true vintage investigator is free from it! And, this is not the last of my latest discoveries – stay tuned for the next transmission .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

PRETTY WHITE COTTON MINI FROM MID-CENTURY EUROPE

While I’m missing Stella (my fabulous vintage mannequin model), please use your imagination to visualize how fun and flattering this mini-dress or tunic looks when it’s on. Without my honed sleuthing skills, I never would have found it and am so glad that I did. As a mini-dress (if you don’t mind the side slits showing your whole leg almost to the hip) it’s really cute and calls for a 1960’s/’70’s chain belt to finish it off. As a swimsuit cover-up or beach dress it would be perfect – cool, crisp and lightweight while giving some reasonable sun protection. Over a pair of skinny white pants or shorts I LOVE IT!! Also love the elbow-length sleeves and unusually-shaped neckline.

How do I know it’s from Europe? The size label tells me. How do I know that it’s true vintage? By my guesstimate, a European size 42 would always be too big for me, but I look great in this whether worn as a mini-dress or a tunic over pants. So, the cut seems to be smaller than a modern garment of that size would be. This is always tricky with international sizing, but I think I’m correct. The fabric is a nicely-woven cotton with some weight (but not too much for Summer) and all-over floral embroidery – similar to vintage fabrics that are almost never seen now. Also, the interior tailoring is different from what I find on modern garments. Not fine tailoring, because this is a very simple garment and probably sold at a lower price. However, some of the finishing is remarkable – if it did not have a size label, I might say that it had been home-sewn. It has darts in back to give it extra fit and style. The size label, printed rather than embroidered, is sewn in at the back neckline and there are no other tags at all.

All right, the verdict is in. This dress is probably from the 1970’s, give or take 5 years. Allowances have to be made for the overseas manufacture. Whatever it’s exact heritage, it’s wonderful and I will really enjoy it. I love solving mysteries but an open-ended investigation is always intriguing. Who knows – sometimes I solve a cold case years later! You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS AND FUN SURPRISE FIND – TRUE VINTAGE, AS ALWAYS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A wonderful authentic Lily blouse from the 1970’s! I was out and about dropping off a charity donation and found this beautiful shirt. Such a surprise; I have several other Lily blouses in my closet, from the 1960’s but haven’t seen one during an investigation for a long time. These lovely shirts were a mid-century staple. The signature fabric is so soft and airy, the pretty embroidery done so well. Most older ones had monochromatic Asian-inspired designs. This one is similar to colorful Latin American indigenous designs, which became more popular in the early 1970’s.

I love the old-style sizing on these blouses and am thrilled that it is in a size I can wear – just about a modern size 2(which would be perfect for Stella, as well. I certainly miss her when I’m not at Headquarters. See her modeling work in many previous posts). It also has double-button cuffs, which is another late 1960’s – early 1970’s tailoring detail, AND a button and loop at the neckline which can be fastened to lessen gaping there, if you want to. True vintage garments almost always have such excellent tailoring and, despite it’s age, I see no signs of wear. The previous owner may have washed it by hand, which would be so easy to do, and avoided the wear and tear of traditional machine washing. So, this lovely won’t be going to eBay or Etsy!!

I also found another true vintage item in pristine condition, which I will post tomorrow. I’m a Satisfied Sleuther!! Just goes to show that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM