ELEGANT, WARM AND HUMANE TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR FOR A FORMAL OCCASION

Evenings are still cold enough to require a warm coat or jacket over formalwear. A blonde faux mink jacket fills the bill and masquerades beautifully. As a great example of mid-century faux furs, this one appears genuine until the closest examination is made.

Styled and tailored as the best furs have always been, this jacket has a full cut, wide collar, cuffs, slash pockets and decorative buttons. A silky full lining covers you inside. The only break with pure vegan construction is a strip of what I believe is leather that faces the front closure on each side. To the credit of the maker, this addition does a good job of strengthening the foundation for the buttons and buttonholes (super important!) and helps the jacket to fall correctly. Now there are ways of accomplishing this with vegan materials.

Again, this coat demonstrates the garment industry’s post-war/mid-century efforts to make the type of wardrobe items which were formerly luxury goods become available to women of the middle classes. Today this trend has continued to build in many segments of wardrobe manufacture i.e. shoes, handbags and sachels/briefcases as well as cosmetics and personal care products which used to be made wholly or in part of substances harvested from animals (fur, skins, leather, whale oil, wool, lanolin, and more). Humane culture is finally becoming mainstream. How Woke of us!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NOW, FOR A GENUINE PROM DRESS FROM THE 1940’S

Back to the delightful tailoring of the early mid-century. This is real 1940’s Prom dress style before they became over-the-top- flouncy a few years later. I love the unusual color palette of this frock – sheer powder blue over mauve pink. The ruching on the bodice is quite unique and especially flattering on someone with a small bustline. Looks like a comfortable design that wouldn’t invite wardrobe malfunctions.

Extra crinoline layers could be worn under the skirt if a mid-1950’s silhouette is more your style. However, comfort and freedom of movement are always the gold standard for any effective disguise. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SAPPHIRE BLUE AND SATIN, TOO . . . . . . . . .

This version of “satin” is really heavy and is also a bonded fabric. Materials like this crop up here and there throughout the mid-century and seem like they would be uncomfortable to wear. However, they hold their shape very well without the need of too many stiff crinoline underskirt layers which, I suppose, was the point and an improvement over 1950’s styles. The hem is tea-length on Stella but an average-size gal from 1960 – about 5 inches shorter – might have found it to be ankle-length. Again, not really a Prom dress but it would have been perfect at a gala or music recital.

The most striking features are the intense color and the back-view design. Bows were a big deal – even up into the early 1970’s. Comfortably demure but also sexy in it’s own way, gowns like this provided lots of coverage for girdles, garter belts and structured bras – the standard foundation garments of that time. Less prone to “wardrobe malfunctions”? Not sure about that. I’m sure there are stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LET’S LOOK AT SOME LATE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S SPECIAL OCCASION DRESSES

Not quite a Prom dress, but it might be just right for the Spring Fling. The Spring season has always brought parties, dances and holiday events in March and April. Everyone was itching to get out of the woolies and into pretty frocks again.

This one is just made for the still-cool days and nights in a substantial fabric and with slightly more coverage on the bodice than dresses with spaghetti straps or strapless designs would provide. However, a lacy crocheted shawl or matching bolero jacket would not be out of place. For those of the more tony set, it would be an opportunity to wear a fur stole.

We’ve left St. Paddy’s day behind and are swiftly heading into Easter. Perhaps we’ll look at something a little more conservative tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER SUPER-CLASSIC WARDROBE ELEMENT FROM THE EARLY 1960’S – THE SHORT-SLEEVED COTTON BLOUSE

Here we see all of the elements – a Peter Pan collar, roll-up cuffs, 100% cotton fabric and an emphasis on “easy care”. Manufacturers and designers of the 1950’s and 1960’s capitalized on making women’s lives easier and more “luxurious” by selling products that helped them to spend more time away from the kitchen and laundry room. Strawberry motifs had their day, too, and were often seen in prints and decorations on skirts, dresses and sweaters.

The Arrow company, well-known manufacturer of men’s daily apparel, also branched into a women’s line back when a Misses size 10 was tiny but also very commonly worn by the women of that day. Imagine opening your front door in the U.S. on a world where most women wore a modern size 4 and stood about 5’3″ tall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Bye -Bye Winter. Let’s look at some short sleeves from the early 1960’s.

Made of the slinky knit stuff that was soooooooo comfy to wear, this day dress looks smashing on Stella, as always. I love it when a find has such a cute, interesting label. I also love these funky abstract mid-century prints that are really wonky. You can take an afternoon trying to figure out what they might be. Nothing much more to say here – it’s got a nylon zip up the back. Funny how some companies didn’t get away from the metal zippers until the mid-Sixties and some started using them in the Fifties . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

IT’S 1960 AND WE’VE GOT A HANDBAG SORTED; THE DRESS, THE HAT, THE SHOES – JUST A COUPLE MORE THINGS BEFORE HEADING OUT THE DOOR . . . . . . . . .

A pretty handkerchief and a pair of white gloves. Can’t go anywhere without those. One never knows when a sniffle might appear or it might be necessary to shake hands. The collar is a matter of choice if your dress or blouse needs a little extra style before presenting yourself to the world.

Such a relief not to have those worries now. Also, how many times in literature have a dropped handkerchief or a single glove been the undoing of a lady’s reputation? And today, with DNA analysis, she wouldn’t have a chance. As always, agents, take care. The equinox is a powerful time – especially this one . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ELEGANT AT-HOME LOUNGE-WEAR FOR A MID-CENTURY GENTLEMAN

While not quite the “smoking” garment of lore, this was a 1950’s dad’s answer to the “dressing gown”, made to wear before putting on any clothing which could be worn outside the house. Whether after the morning shower while preparing for his day or in the evening after work hours an elegant robe of this type could be worn, possibly while relaxing with coffee and the newspaper or a highball and, of course, his pipe.

The wide, decorative collar and cuffs were de rigueur for these garments, as well as a matching tie belt. Sometimes, the pockets were also accented with trim. Rayon and satin were common fabrics for the older versions while quality cotton, as above, became popular after WWII when wash-and-wear was the favorite for fabric care.

One more potential clue from the drawing room murder scene tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WHILE WE’RE IN THE JEWELRY FILE, IT’S NOT ONLY WOMEN WHO LEAVE IMPORTANT CLUES

How many times has a dropped cuff-link or a tie tack on an end table been the downfall of a careless man? I’ll bet that Perry Mason could go on all night about those cases. Here are a couple of examples which were very important to a well-dressed guy in the 1950’s and early 1960’s. The set on left are fine jewelry; sterling silver set with pearls. On the right, an ensemble by Swank – costume jewelry, but very respectable. Department stores, jewelry stores and some men’s clothiers carried these items.

Like their female counterparts, men’s taste in jewelry (or, at least, the things they wore) were always valuable clues in case of a mystery. Even though his dress might be due to very unconscious choices, the women, families and vendors involved could probably put together the whole story for a diligent investigator. For our purposes, there’s no need for elaborate interviews or forensics to pinpoint the fashion era of these pieces. With a little imagination and a lot of sleuthing know-how, the entire profile of our suspect comes in to focus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NO MID-CENTURY WOMAN LEFT HOME FOR AN OUTING WITHOUT A LITTLE BLING

Whether it was a trip to town for the weekly shopping, the Women’s Club meeting or a visit to a friend in the hospital, a church service or a weekend in the city, most women’s jewelry boxes would have them covered. A simple, but elegant, pair of silver earrings purchased during that trip to Mexico would be perfect with a cotton shirt-dress or cotton blouse and capris at the grocery store. That simple string of white pearls can go almost anywhere anytime, even though these are costume (just don’t wear them in the shower). The brooch in raspberry tones would go well with a nice dress or on the lapel of your coat and the iridescent blue parure is perfect with a dressy suit. Some other time we’ll have to explore the eveningwear file –

At any rate, a few pieces could be very versatile but still leave sleuths with valuable clues about when, where and by who they were worn. It’s often enough to clinch a case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM