Velveteen pumps and a velvet bag – what could be more perfect for a dressy evening out? Marvelous finds! Tomorrow I’ll show some 1940’s outerwear for the occasion. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGSPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Taking a short break from the LBDs and going for a little color. This beautiful navy blue fitted rayon dress is a perfect example of the late 1940’s return to more luxurious day wear after the restrictions of rationing were ended. The label is Loma Leads, from a dress company that was organized in the late 1920’s and operated in New York and Paris. It had several departments and was around in one form or another at least into the early 1960’s. A very uptown classic ladies dress from the time when there was more fabric available again, so hemlines came back down and extra tailoring details like the peplum and bodice tucks were again possible. Women had been SO waiting for this! The exuberance of big rhinestone buttons on a day dress speaks to the attitude of a return to extravagance in fashion. The big skirts of Christian Dior’s New Look at this time is another example.
This style, however, is very buttoned-up and, to my mind, underlines the haughty, elegant and “rich” look intended here. After all the restrictions and deprivations of the “make do and mend” wartime years, luxury and affluence were the beckoning horizon for the United States and Canada while Europe was more intent on surviving and rebuilding after all the extensive damage to their infrastructure and land. But, Paris had always led the world of couture and design so fashion bounced back there, too, as Dior and other designers met the challenges and optimism of the new era and resumed their lead.
It is so fascinating to untangle the ways that fashion trends dovetail with historical events. The clues are everywhere and a good sleuth always looks for them. A completely different example from this time tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM . . . . . .
This pretty dress is made of rayon material with a BIG velvet bow and inverted front pleat for added interest. I love the scalloped overlay and the shaping on the cuffs of the short sleeves, which is SO Forties! This dress is labeled as having been made by a company or maker that was nationalized during the years surrounding and following WW2 when many, if not most, fabrics and notions available to garment-makers before the war and the Depression were unavailable to manufacturers and home-tailors because of rationing. Women still wanted pretty fashions and our government helped to make that possible and affordable.
Despite having no lining or buttons, there are very nice tailoring details. It is, unusually for that time, quite a large size but is so well-cut that belting it on my size 6 mannequin (thank you, Madge!) still looks amazing. That is an advantage of any well-made garment and especially in the case of most true vintage clothing. Stay tuned for more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Yes, it’s still September and early for wool but this post-war 1940’s – early 1950’s jacket is perfect for the transition. It’s fairly lightweight and the winter white color can take it through 3 seasons. Almost a blazer, but the fit makes me wonder if it once had a matching skirt. Who knows. I was thrilled to discover it. This beauty can stand alone.
Look at the wonderful tailoring details. A sculpted collar, cuffs and tabs at the hips that are accented with arty buttons (which are all still present!). Full lining in matching rayon(?) fabric. It may even have been custom-made. You just can’t beat the fabulous construction of most garments made during this era. It’s a tiny size that will fit well over a light blouse or even a tank. Easy to dress up or to wear more casually.
My best guess for what the weather is going to be like tomorrow, let alone next week, is up in the air (pun intended). I’ll keep on unpacking what I need, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
I love this! OK, I forgot my bag of donations but I stopped at the Op Shop (I’m in Canada right now) anyway to look for some Fall turtlenecks and took a few minutes to sift through the piles of jewelry. It’s rare to find true vintage jewelry items now, but I often do so I take a peek and look what I discovered! They’re both paddle back style clip-ons. The top pair are early – mid-1960’s girly flower earrings, which was a common design then. They aren’t really dressy, but the gold-tone and aurora borealis “diamonds” in the centers let them be dressed-up easily as well as being stylish with a more casual outfit. What could be better?
The bottom pair are really precious because they are PERFECT with the pearl and rhinestone bracelet that I found and posted a few weeks ago! Sparkly white rhinestones set in silver-tone metal would probably be from the early to mid-1950’s. They were never high-end but I’d happily wear them to the Opera or any gala (if I went to those things – you just never know). There’s one tiny rhinestone missing, but this would never be noticed and I may have a replacement at Headquarters. We’ll see.
So, the moral of this investigation is that taking the time to look for clues in hidden or unlikely spots is almost always a good idea! My experience has proven that many, many times. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
These pieces are very lovely and well-made. I am surprised that neither of them is signed or branded. It’s not often that I come across clues like these when just out and about – usually they wind up in antique stores or at estate sales.
The brooch is heavy and all the rhinestones are present. Its pin mechanism locks securely There is no corrosion on the gold-tone metal and it is quite clean overall. Someone loved this piece and stored it well. Easy to see why. I date it from the 1950’s to the early to mid-1960’s. The style is classic but modern and a bit lyrical, as was often seen in jewelry by Trifari during the same period.
The pearl bracelet is older and originally was at least as nice. There is a simple, box – push clasp which is not found on most precious jewelry with the exception of some very lightweight pieces; But the metal, while not fine, is untarnished and clean and the latch is secure. The bracelet is heavy but this is predominantly from the weight of the champagne-colored pearls, which I believe are genuine (though surely cultured). One is missing on the clasp, but I think I will be able to replace it. The strands are knotted between the gems. There are a few tiny rhinestones on the clasp and the keeper bars. Only one is missing, in a spot where this would never be noticed. Overall, this is also a very good-quality costume piece in a classic style and I would date it from the late 1930’s to the war-time 1940’s possibly to the early 1960’s.
Though fine jewelry is easier to trace, any accessory piece is a good place to start an investigation. I’ll probably keep them in the files for a while. What a coup if that missing pearl should show up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Practically “new”; just a little corrosion on the metal parts. I couldn’t pass this up since it is an iconic true vintage personal item. This fine accessory is an example of a key case style that had been made for decades and decades, mostly before the 1970’s. Always in leather, and with a simple fold-over design and with these little metal hooks that can hold old-style car keys, house keys, post office box key, storage box key, office key, etc,, etc. I’ve seen many of them, and they’re always a good clue – especially if the keys are still present. . . . . . . . . . . . .
The design is meant to lie flat when the keys are tucked inside, so best for a pocket only. That’s why I have always guessed that it’s mostly a men’s accessory. When other types of more modern and prettier key-rings were not available, though, one of these could tuck securely into a lady’s handbag and they do allow the owner to carry all their important keys in one tidy place. Many of them, like this one, contained a card on which the owner could write their name and address in case the keys were lost. Often, people ignored these and they were still left tucked inside.
It’s another example of the elegant and high-quality items that our ancestors owned and used almost every day. I just never know what might turn up. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Beautiful wool coats which called for lapel brooches. Umbrellas with handles made of wood, celluloid and other “new” plastics. As always, I love the pretty fabric patterns and bling alongside the tailored elegance of the coats and jackets.
You can see the wartime influence on the first coat with it’s simplicity and lack of detail while a nod to luxury has been made by the velvet collar. Military style influence is visible in the big padded shoulders and the shape of the fur hat. I can really picture Ingrid Bergman wearing a coat like the fitted one – similar to trenchcoat design a la the movie Casablanca. The pale blue version with big pink buttons is moving us toward the 1950’s.
More reasons why the 1940’s fashion decade is probably my favorite. However, the 1950’s are also a big competitor on my favorites list and we’ll travel into the early part of that decade tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Some of my very favorite frocks. Wonderful rayon and blended synthetics. Pretty cotton. One sheer, the others opaque and drapey. Don’t you love these prints? Atomic, abstract and floral – big wartime and post-war favorites. Here, also, are some of the handbags, scarves and pumps that might have been worn with them.
Iconic styles, rationing-compliant and “modern” plastic alternatives to leather and wool. Silk and silky synthetic scarves were constant purse accessories. A few items carry over from the 1930’s – a few point toward popular styles as we go into the 1950’s. Since we’ve had such a long, cold winter, tomorrow I will show a few of the coats and outdoor accessories which might have accompanied 1940’s dresses outside the home. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
The Seventies, Eighties and Nineties produced a lot of popular retail styles that imitated 1940’s designs. Some were very well done and others not so much, to be charitable. As I’ve said, it’s hard for me to call these decades true vintage but, technically, they are. The two purses echoing shapes and tapestry design popular in the Forties might have shown up in the 1960’s.
All of these could be fun and the reproduction details became best during the mid-1980’s but, unfortunately, modern polyester fabrics and production techniques lowered the quality a lot. No valid comparison, in my opinion, to true vintage from the 1940’s – even the home-sewn versions that were made from older clothing during rationing.
Of this group, the best-made is the black velveteen custom-tailored frock from the 1980’s or 1990’s. It was made by an expert seamstress and is worthy of being called a reproduction in the Post-war New Look style. The retail day-dresses are versatile and the prints are great – pretty faithful to authentic ones that I’ve come across. I always love the padded shoulders and cinched waistlines that are very flattering but were also a nod to the style of military uniforms. Jumpsuits were just for fun in the Seventies, but always are inconvenient. I suspect that the jumpsuits worn by women working in the war effort during the Forties had drop seats, which makes it a little bit better. I do have a pair of high-waisted slacks from the ’40’s that have an ingeniously-designed drop seat that looks quite good.
So, these clues were fun to find and seemed worthy of collection though I always prefer the real deal. Speaking of which, I just came across another archived file of true vintage 1940’s dresses which I will show tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
