Category Archives: hand-tailored

HERE COMES SANTA CLAUSE – AN EARLY 1960’S AT-HOME VELVET HOUSE DRESS

Perhaps appropriate for your intimate cocktail gathering with friends, but can you imagine anything more impractical than hosting a party wearing velvet and fur? Or dealing with Christmas morning craziness and food prep wearing this? No wonder it’s been packed away. Still, some home-based seamstress had a lot of fun planning and wearing this gown. It was the height of “fad-shion” and she must have felt like a queen. Good thing her sleeve didn’t get into the gravy or the baby’s diaper leak onto her lap.

No doubt this frock has a story but, after this short digression, it’s time to return to the LBD and it’s slightly-flashier cousins. We’ve moved into the late 1950’s – early 1960’s and it’s time to get back to some serious partying. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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ANOTHER 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S FUR-TRIMMED SEMI-FORMAL DRESS

Not a cocktail style, though it belongs in the line-up. This is such a distinctive tailoring style – I’ve got at least 6 garments dating from the 1930’s to Fifties or early Sixties with fur-trimmed sleeves. In the early ’60’s and into the ’70’s the trim also showed up on hems. The same type of glossy jacquard fabric is used here as in the dress shown yesterday, but I suspect that this special-occasion frock was made for a girl or young woman. Maybe for a party, maybe for an “event”. Might even have been home-sewn. Fabric shops used to carry trims of all kinds. This looks like rabbit fur.

My feeling is that this style was really a fad, although it kept cropping up. Popular, in it’s way, but only for a smaller segment of the market. Not the same as fur collars on coats, which has been a standard for many centuries. I suppose that fur has been a trademark of luxury and wealth throughout history. If a designer wanted to create an upscale look, fur trim might be chosen. Thank goodness, now we can have the authentic look without the cruelty.

Tomorrow another garment of this design, in a really impractical example. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A BEAUTIFUL POST-WAR EARLY 1950’S MIDI DRESS FOR FORMAL COCKTAILS

New Look style without the crinoline. Nipped waist and full skirt. Instead of in the front, as was possible in the 1940’s, there’s a V-shaped seam at the back waist. In this case, we also see the increasingly-popular fur-trimmed sleeves. The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard with a glossy brocade look. Again, simple elegance though the fur trim does put it alittle over the top, to my eye.

There’s no label, so this gown could have been custom-tailored but it’s quite possible that the owner removed the tag, as so often happened. It’s a lovely semi-formal dress with a neckline which could show off a statement necklace. Doesn’t need that in any way as far as I’m concerned, but you know how some women are. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tomorrow I’ll continue with this 1950’s trend. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A VERY DRESSY SEMI-FORMAL POST-WAR EARLY 1950’S COCKTAIL SKIRT SUIT

This gorgeous fine wool city suit was one of my most treasured finds. It is exceptionally-tailored and in perfect condition. Alas, it is a size too small for me (about a modern 2), but perfect for Stella. So, you can see it in all it’s glory. Early 1950’s women’s clothing was beautifully-designed and fitted with detailed tailoring embellishments. Take note of the rhinestone buckle at the left shoulder.

Not what you would normally think of wearing to a cocktail party, but for a high-end event it would have been perfect. Very professional, elegant – the Post-war era’s power suit. Understated perfection. What more can I say? Tomorrow, another “similar” garment from the same era – more gorgeous perfection. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S REPRODUCTION DRESS

Here’s a lovely frock made by an amateur (?) tailor with her own name label sewn in. The photos don’t do it justice – the tailoring is exceptional. No decoration – classic and elegant. Neckline is the focus, but the features of a post-war 1940’s New Look dressy frock are faithfully recreated – nipped waistline and the point at waist front, sweetheart neckline, very short sleeves and circle skirt. The fabric is a lush velvet.

So, I had to collect it when it showed up. More coming before we round out this decade. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL 1940’S COCKTAIL FROCK FROM URUGUAY

This semi-formal dress uses sheer material to emphasize the design rather than heavy ornamentation like the decorated frock shown yesterday. In my experience, sheer fabric with embroidered designs was popular in the 1940’s. It’s fun to see how dressmakers used it.

On the shoulders, these are augmented by gathered puffs at the shoulder seams and letting the body shine through rather than sewing shoulder pads in. It’s a nice balancing effect without the military look. Sheer fabric on the bodice is something I’ve seen before, too, but here it is backed by flesh-tone fabric, mimicking a plunging decollete’. The sheer fabric, though not with any embroidery, continues to be used for the long cuffed sleeves and as an over-dress with a long peplum over an opaque base layer.

So, the final result is dressy and sexy but also conservative. Clever design though a bit simpler than the one shown yesterday.This dress was at least partly hand-tailored. It has covered buttons on the cuffs and a long center zipper in back, which was a transition from side zippers that, in my experience, began to take place in the Forties.

Again, I was so intrigued and wondered about the original owner of this dress and where she wore it. Stay tuned for yet more 1940’s fashion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE POST-WAR 1940’S BEADED COCKTAIL DRESS

During a South American investigation, this frock was discovered in the beautiful and historic city of Montevideo, Uruguay. During WW 2, well-to-do Uruguayan women still had beautiful dresses made for them and did some trade in clothing and accessories from France. This dress has the label of a small tailoring shop, is exquisitely made by hand and was obviously owned by a woman from the upper class who would wear it to dinner or any semi-formal festive gathering.

Style-wise, the augmented shoulders, funky ruching on the hips and sleeves plus the midi hem point directly to the late 1940’s. Heavy decoration with beads and sequins is all done by hand, as is the finishing. Look at all the small buttons in back, each with it’s own fabric loop closure. Stay tuned for more from the 1940’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S DRESSY FROCK – ANOTHER FINELY HAND -TAILORED GARMENT FROM BRITISH HONG KONG

This dress is such a treat! I was so thrilled to uncover it. Look at the marvelous tailoring details and ingenious construction – A basic sheath style, with a heavily-decorated blouson top that appears to be separate, but is attached at the shoulders and fully-lined with a white silk under-blouse. Both layers close with a metal zipper. Hooks and eyes secure the neckline for good fit. The shoulders have strap-holders sewn in. The acetate skirt is also lined with black rayon and has a wide hem allowance plus a walking vent in the rear seam. Hand-finished all over.

In the ’50’s and 1960’s a woman of moderate means could save for the occasional purchase of clothing made this way and more prosperous women had closets full of nothing else. These were the standards of better-made garments during the mid-century. Now even very expensive clothing is sometimes constructed poorly and hardly ever as well as this dress is. The attention to detail and hand-done stitching made clothing fit better look more polished.

Tomorrow I’ll show you another frock from this decade. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1950’S – EARLY 1960’S BEADED TOPS GO ELEGANT TO DRESS-UP

Here are two examples of the most iconic cocktail fashions of this era, which could be dressed down for a home-based cocktail party or dressed up with a well-styled skirt for a more formal type of party or event. The best were made in British Hong Kong – sweaters were made of fine lambswool or cashmere and shell blouses of rayon or silk. They would always be lined and have tiny sewn-in labels showing the bust measurement. Finer pieces had cloth labels from fine tailoring shops. These two are beautiful, but not the nicest I have discovered.

Although many tops similar to this were made in the ’80’s and ’90’s when retro “vintage” fashions became really hot, I never saw any as well-made as these are. There was a great variety of designs and types of beads; sequins, seed beads, jewels and, ribbon were all used. Like these, most were monochromatic but there were some with contrasting designs. Usually, the design was also on the back side and required some care when worn but that was not considered to be a hardship for women in the 1900’s.

Tomorrow I’ll start showing some dresses. This is a category of true vintage fashion that is a very big one! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

START OF A SERIES: TRUE VINTAGE PIECES FOR COOL, DRESSY EVENINGS

We’re now heading into the season for indoor parties, special occasions and events after the long, lovely summer; Cocktail parties, dinners, dances, recitals, holiday galas – you name it. I’ll be starting a series of posts of pretty, dressy and semi-formal garments in my collection from the 1950’s – 1990’s which will take us into the Fall and even Winter. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM