What could be better for Summer? Love these sling-back sandals with the sculpted stacked leather heel. The soles are Elastane, which was a “new” material introduced in the 1970’s and was very popular for it’s flexibility. I’m dating this pair from the 1980’s. Very city chic, yet casual.
These color-block flats make me think of something Audrey Hepburn might have worn in the the classic movie Roman Holiday, from the early 1960’s. They are by Enzo Angiolini, an Italian designer brand which was very popular in the U.S. during the 1990’s. I believe that they are 100% leather shoes, excepting for the heel caps. This is always a sign of higher-end footwear, if the workmanship is good.
Both pairs have been lovingly cared for and show light wear, considering their age. Even better, they are in my size. Who knows what streets and alleyways these shoes may have walked? Good chance some of them were in Europe. They still have more stories to tell, and I always love a mystery . . . . . . . . . . . . .
More from the 1970’s – 1990’s. Let’s start with the fabulous handbag. Remember that I mentioned Portugal in the last couple of posts? Well, this purse was handmade there. Likely, a traveler picked it up during her(?) trip since leather goods have been premier souvenir items from that country for decades. Look at the craftsmanship! Inside, it has convenient pockets and dividers and is a useful medium size with an adjustable shoulder strap. Pretty gold-tone hardware and my favorite feature: the clasp. This one reminds me of many unusual and crafty closures that are seen on purses from the 1940’s and 1950’s. The circular metal ring fits over the round metal knob and closes firmly with the hinged latch. Not locked, but tightly fastened. These ingenious and pretty hardware items always fascinate me!
During the investigation I also found this small card holder, meant for carrying business cards so no RFID protection required. It is simple, but luxurious. The leather is butter soft and the pouch is lined with a rayon-type fabric, all in perfect condition, Another lovely handbag accessory.
I’m always on the lookout for high quality belts and they are elusive, especially in my size. But, you just never know and look what turned up! Super simple in it’s style. Classic, elegant embossed basket-weave design that adds a bit of interest but won’t be a distraction. 100% leather with a buckle that is probably brass. Sometimes I find them stamped as brass on the underside. That means strong, with no corrosion. Another find in near-perfect condition – just right for jeans, slacks or for cinching a sweater or jacket. Perfect for Fall (yes, it’s coming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned.)
Made in Brazil and Spain – in the 1980’s and 1990’s, two of the BEST places where great shoes and other leather goods were made. Italy and Portugal were also at the top of that list. These were made for well-known brands but small unbranded shoemakers (especially in Latin America and Europe) sold beautiful creations if you were able to find them. I knew immediately that these were vintage footwear pieces and that the quality would be outstanding. The truth, as always, is in the details and I have included photographs and descriptions of the most important ones.
The leather in the top-pictured flats is glove-soft. I adore the embroidered stars covering the vamps. The little finishing detail at the top of the heels was one sign of exceptional workmanship. I usually find this detail on well-made true vintage European footwear. These were made in Spain by Pikolinos, a family brand founded in 1984. Love the style!
The camel-colored flats with brown trim are made in an elegant style meant as a driving shoe (notice the extension of the sole material on the back of the heels). See the little stitching detail that secures the seam there, too, plus the brown trim which reinforces the heel opening but is also very stylish. On the edges of the vamps where the foot enters there are slim inserts of elastic material and elegant stitching detail. These shoes were made in Brazil for Naturalizer, a more common North American company which nevertheless made some excellent quality footwear, at least in the past.
Both these pairs of shoes have a hard but flexible vinyl/rubber sole that is very appropriate for street wear and resists damage. Again, they will last for decades longer. I couldn’t be happier to find these practical styles in one place! Stay tuned for the last installment of this most recent investigation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Love, love, love!!!!! Most likely from the 1980’s – maybe the 1990’s. Always one of my favorite finds (they fit!!!!!), and definitely keepers that will serve me well forever. These boots were made in Brazil of lovely, soft leather. The clues abound regarding their excellent pedigree:
1. The craftsmanship is exquisite: even, strong stitching with high quality elastic gussets that have held their shape and stretch. Notice the nice little tab at the back which looks good but also provides a gripping place to pull the boots on comfortably, without stretching that would pull them out of shape.
2. The soles and heels look very much like leather, which is always a plus because it can be repaired by a skilled shoemaker or shoe-repair technician, but instead are made of the wonderful Vibram-type material which came later in the mid-century and is virtually indestructible. The finish eventually wears off the soles but they don’t wear down as quickly as leather. Repair and replacement are hardly ever needed.
3, The heels are so well-crafted that they have the look of stacked leather, though they probably are not(?)
4. The Granny-style of the heels was fashionable at the time these were made but the overall design is perfectly classic and elegant. Despite the heel style these boots are wearable with most clothing types without looking dated and will continue to be in the future.
This investigation proved not only the age, origin and construction details of these boots, but also strong clues as to what class of person owned and wore them as well as the type of vendor which sold them originally. Although modern technology would allow a greater depth of detailed knowledge to be ascertained in a laboratory, I will leave those tasks to the forensic teams. For my purposes, the investigation is perfect and ends here, in my closet.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _
As I’ve said before, I don’t support the markets for any type of animal skins (including fur) by buying newly-made products that involve the raising, hunting and slaughter of the animals who provide them. I also avoid products made from wool, down and other feathers and silk, which also involve animal cruelty. Collecting beautiful true vintage artifacts easily satisfies my curiosity and fulfills my needs.
As the marketplace continues to offer more alternatives, my diet and toiletries are always vegetarian and vegan whenever possible. Excellent alternatives to most products are available and the prices are constantly coming down. Now that cruelty-free hard goods (not food or other things that will spoil) have been in the marketplace for a few years, it’s increasingly possible to find them in places where previously used items are sold or traded. True vintage items may not have been made with an ethical mentality, but they don’t contribute to cruelty and abuse in the present. Secondhand purchases don’t give money to current unethical manufacturing processes or the people who sell them either, as long as you are not buying from the original producer or vendor. And, the older things are, the better the quality in most cases. What could be better?
This is just the beginning of my posts of recent discoveries. More are coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .
Wonderful items from the 1980’s and 1990’s. Although I never buy modern leather, skins or fur, I love these beautiful true vintage pieces which have the quality craftsmanship and materials that we rarely see anymore. With good care, they last for decades and decades! Stay tuned – I’ll post them soon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
I’m always delighted to find a New Wave early 1980’s piece in beautiful condition. The shadow lines seen in the photo are just a reflection from the glossy surface. This black silk satin evening bag with a gold-tone geometric chain handle was made in Italy and sold by Holt Renfrew, a luxury department store in Canada. It’s very sleek and slim – a great example of the genre. Wouldn’t you know, I have a black leather cinch belt with gold edging from 1980 – perfect match!
Another little coin purse was found at the same location. It’s vinyl from the 1950’s or, more likely, the early 1960’s. Durable and cute, but cheap and hardly elegant. Why did I bother to collect this? Well, if you carry true vintage handbags regularly, you know that although some of the best ones had little matching coin purses tucked inside and attached by a cord, the majority had no secure place to carry coins. That always had to come from a separate coin purse or a ladies’ wallet which had a coin purse inside (or her escort’s pocket). Wallets like that were rarely, if ever, made for women before the late 1950’s and early 1960’s, in my experience. I wonder if that had anything to do with women’s ability to manage their own money? But, I digress . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fortunately, that’s one thing we can more or less take for granted now and I don’t like hunting in the bottom of a handbag or in a pocket for change. Much less do I like to mend holes in the bottoms of pockets that have been abused that way. Therefore, handy purse accessories are always at the top of my list when I’m investigating. And sometimes, the most interesting clues can be found inside. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
While I’m missing Stella (my fabulous vintage mannequin model), please use your imagination to visualize how fun and flattering this mini-dress or tunic looks when it’s on. Without my honed sleuthing skills, I never would have found it and am so glad that I did. As a mini-dress (if you don’t mind the side slits showing your whole leg almost to the hip) it’s really cute and calls for a 1960’s/’70’s chain belt to finish it off. As a swimsuit cover-up or beach dress it would be perfect – cool, crisp and lightweight while giving some reasonable sun protection. Over a pair of skinny white pants or shorts I LOVE IT!! Also love the elbow-length sleeves and unusually-shaped neckline.
How do I know it’s from Europe? The size label tells me. How do I know that it’s true vintage? By my guesstimate, a European size 42 would always be too big for me, but I look great in this whether worn as a mini-dress or a tunic over pants. So, the cut seems to be smaller than a modern garment of that size would be. This is always tricky with international sizing, but I think I’m correct. The fabric is a nicely-woven cotton with some weight (but not too much for Summer) and all-over floral embroidery – similar to vintage fabrics that are almost never seen now. Also, the interior tailoring is different from what I find on modern garments. Not fine tailoring, because this is a very simple garment and probably sold at a lower price. However, some of the finishing is remarkable – if it did not have a size label, I might say that it had been home-sewn. It has darts in back to give it extra fit and style. The size label, printed rather than embroidered, is sewn in at the back neckline and there are no other tags at all.
All right, the verdict is in. This dress is probably from the 1970’s, give or take 5 years. Allowances have to be made for the overseas manufacture. Whatever it’s exact heritage, it’s wonderful and I will really enjoy it. I love solving mysteries but an open-ended investigation is always intriguing. Who knows – sometimes I solve a cold case years later! You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Through the decades the changes in style are often subtle, but they’re noticeable if your sleuthing trade skills are sharp. One thing that all these dresses have in common is excellent quality. I showed several dresses of this genre which were made in the Victorian/Prairie style when covering 1970’s Prom dresses a couple of months ago. Early in that decade, girls sometimes wore them to the Prom but they were usually fussier with lace and more details. Jessica McClintock of Gunne Sax styled them for at least 20 – 30 years. Labels always help, of course, but aren’t always present. The condition of all these examples is near-perfect, which can make the job a easier, though tell-tale signs of wear can sometimes be very helpful clues. Let’s start from left to right:
A Prairie-style gown, pretty and modest in cotton. Looks like it was made for retail because of the precise tailoring detail, but there is no label. I would put it in the 1970’s but it could possibly have been made later by an individual expert or a company that catered to a niche market which preferred very modest styles of dress.
A red and white plaid gown that picks up on the Prairie style, but in a much more casual, carefree design reminiscent of the 1960’s. It’s probably made from cotton but I can’t be sure without the file in front of me and it could be cotton/poly blend. It was made in the 1980’s in West Germany. This is an example of trends jumping the oceans, usually years after they originally appeared in the Western nations. Although they’ve done their own take on the style, it’s exceptionally well-made, as goods from West Germany have always tended to be, in my experience.
A black and white floral print gown made in Hawaii. This one is from the 1980’s, give or take a decade and is the most elegant. Same deal about the fabric as in the previous dress. The style is pure average conservative, which makes it harder to date exactly. A pretty dress, but nothing distinctive about it excepting for excellent tailoring. It might have been a wardrobe item of someone who lived in Hawaii, purchased at a specialty shop stateside which carried Hawaiian garments or by someone who bought it while on vacation. Hawaiian-made gowns have been popular with women worldwide since the 1950’s, but earlier ones were usually made in more traditional Hawaiian style and, often, of Hawaiian fabric with traditional island prints. The more mainstream universal designs like this one came later.
The final dress is from the 1990’s. Always harder for me to think of as true vintage, but it is worthy because of the good tailoring, 100% cotton fabric and the retail designer label sold by a high-end department store in New York City. It’s got pedigree. Again, nothing notable about the style but it is very well-cut, which can make a world of difference in terms of how a dress fits. That’s one feature of even plain, rather boring vintage clothing items that can make them worth collecting and wearing. The style can always be elevated by adding accessories but one thing that always elevates any garment is how well it is made and how well it fits.
Tomorrow I’ll be showing a collection of dressy day-wear accessories from the 1960’s that fit the category of well-made, classic and designer items that can “make” an outfit. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Magicvintagespy 