Category Archives: fur

HERE COMES SANTA CLAUSE – AN EARLY 1960’S AT-HOME VELVET HOUSE DRESS

Perhaps appropriate for your intimate cocktail gathering with friends, but can you imagine anything more impractical than hosting a party wearing velvet and fur? Or dealing with Christmas morning craziness and food prep wearing this? No wonder it’s been packed away. Still, some home-based seamstress had a lot of fun planning and wearing this gown. It was the height of “fad-shion” and she must have felt like a queen. Good thing her sleeve didn’t get into the gravy or the baby’s diaper leak onto her lap.

No doubt this frock has a story but, after this short digression, it’s time to return to the LBD and it’s slightly-flashier cousins. We’ve moved into the late 1950’s – early 1960’s and it’s time to get back to some serious partying. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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ANOTHER 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S FUR-TRIMMED SEMI-FORMAL DRESS

Not a cocktail style, though it belongs in the line-up. This is such a distinctive tailoring style – I’ve got at least 6 garments dating from the 1930’s to Fifties or early Sixties with fur-trimmed sleeves. In the early ’60’s and into the ’70’s the trim also showed up on hems. The same type of glossy jacquard fabric is used here as in the dress shown yesterday, but I suspect that this special-occasion frock was made for a girl or young woman. Maybe for a party, maybe for an “event”. Might even have been home-sewn. Fabric shops used to carry trims of all kinds. This looks like rabbit fur.

My feeling is that this style was really a fad, although it kept cropping up. Popular, in it’s way, but only for a smaller segment of the market. Not the same as fur collars on coats, which has been a standard for many centuries. I suppose that fur has been a trademark of luxury and wealth throughout history. If a designer wanted to create an upscale look, fur trim might be chosen. Thank goodness, now we can have the authentic look without the cruelty.

Tomorrow another garment of this design, in a really impractical example. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A BEAUTIFUL POST-WAR EARLY 1950’S MIDI DRESS FOR FORMAL COCKTAILS

New Look style without the crinoline. Nipped waist and full skirt. Instead of in the front, as was possible in the 1940’s, there’s a V-shaped seam at the back waist. In this case, we also see the increasingly-popular fur-trimmed sleeves. The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard with a glossy brocade look. Again, simple elegance though the fur trim does put it alittle over the top, to my eye.

There’s no label, so this gown could have been custom-tailored but it’s quite possible that the owner removed the tag, as so often happened. It’s a lovely semi-formal dress with a neckline which could show off a statement necklace. Doesn’t need that in any way as far as I’m concerned, but you know how some women are. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tomorrow I’ll continue with this 1950’s trend. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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THE PERFECT TRUE VINTAGE COAT OVER 1930’S LBDs

The standard and traditional mid-century classic: a wool coat with fur collar and oversize buttons. Perfect and elegant in black. Wartime in Europe hadn’t yet impacted women’s fashion with rationing, but the economic Depression was being felt by almost everyone. Though the fur collar is not fine, the owner of this coat was a lucky lady.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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BEFORE ANIMAL RIGHTS ACTIVISM – FUR AND WOOL COATS AND CAPES FOR DRESSY DAYS AND EVENINGS

Seal, curly lamb, fine wool – even the more masculine overcoat and trench coat styles were worn by women. Remember Ingrid Bergman’s in Casablanca? Classics like this were considered to be very elegant back in the day. They still are, though our choice of materials is changing, thank goodness. Any of them would have been considered appropriate over dressy attire. On a warmer evening, this little velveteen jacket with 3/4 sleeves and a peplum waist would suit for any semi-formal or even formal occasion to keep bare arms and shoulders cozy.

Next, back to the ’30’s – ’40’s “cocktail” dresses rundown. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE ’50’S – EARLY ’60’S COCKTAIL BLOUSE FROM DOWN UNDER

What a wonderful, unique and chic mid-century piece! Discovered during an investigation in Australia, this pretty top made in Britain (or by a British company) is made from semi-sheer fabric that has a woven-in contrasting pattern. It buttons up the back and has the distinctive feature of 3/4 length sleeves with fur cuffs. Great fit and gorgeous over a black skirt or dressy pants. Casual, but elegant.

Women’s semi-formal clothes were especially fabulous between the 1920’s and 1960’s. Although many dresses, skirts and blouses had lovely decoration in the years before, styles were too buttoned-up for my taste. After the 1960’s quality, creativity and elegance really seemed to take a dive. Give me styles from the Prohibition speakeasys, film noir and revolutionary Sixties any day. The Seventies had too much polyester, the Eighties had some great Forties retro and avante guarde New Wave but were overall too gaudy and the Nineties had an overabundance of black. Of course, great pieces were made during all these decades but seemed to be the exception. Just my opinion – you decide.

Thank goodness that modern faux fur and animal skin alternatives have become almost indistinguishable from real ones which, in my opinion, are an abomination. This also includes silk, tortoise shell, horn, coral, pearls and ivory. True vintage pieces made from these materials decades ago are an important part of fashion history and can be fun to collect and wear but I ask my viewers NEVER to support the market for these products by buying modern items made from them. This is how we can block the profit from breeding and slaughtering these wonderful creatures and stop it. If you are looking for clothing and accessories made from any of these, check at a secondhand thrift or antique store. Thank you and stay tuned for that 1940’s series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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UPSCALE TRUE VINTAGE 3-SEASON FAUX FUR HAT. SO MUCH FUN TO WRITE ABOUT THIS!

About the last thing I expected to encounter! There I was, looking for some chains for crystal pendants I’ve been buying and a dangle for the end of my 1960’s chain belt (which I found, by the way) and what was propped on a nearby hat-stand?; a quasi-luxe faux beaver fur hat, made in Italy for the iconic Simpson’s department store chain of Canada, which finally phased out in 1991!! More about that a bit later. First, the hat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Boy, do I miss my models who are having time free at Headquarters. They would do a much better job of showing this off, but you can get the essentials from these photos. Looking almost like new, with just a little storage crush. This baby is at least 35 years old and could be more like 60. The rayon-like liner is pristine, with the original label. Classic Russian toque style with a slim fabric hatband for best fit. It’s very flattering and super-practical – will fill an empty niche in my hat collection perfectly!

And, what a pedigree! Made in Italy, to their high standards of that time (some makers still seem to have them). Simpsons Department stores were historic vendors, started in 1872!!! They were in stiff competition with the Eaton’s chain and evidently tried to upscale their merchandise for a winning position. All the Eatons stores finally closed in 1999, so these two were head to head for well over 100 years. The first Simpsons store was in Toronto, Ontario, and could be compared to the iconic Marshall Field of Chicago in terms of the elegance of the store itself and its merchandise. Like Field’s, they also did the elaborate Christmas windows that families would travel far just to see. 80 years later, they teamed up with Sears, Roebuck & Co., becoming Simpson Sears. Like Sears in the U.S., they also offered a catalog service. In another 24 years, the Simpsons element was purchased by the Hudson’s Bay Company and the store name became The Bay in 1991. In the Northeast U.S. and Canada, all three of these names were very well-known and depended upon for high quality and fashionable merchandise. In the States, we could compare Eaton’s, Simpsons and The Bay to Marshall Field’s, Bloomingdales and Saks Fifth Avenue, to name a few. You can see why I’m so thrilled with this true vintage find!

So, as I always say: You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned. I am . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE LADIES’ DRESSY AND FORMAL – WEAR FROM THE EARLY 1950’S

From cocktail party to Prom to a wedding, these dresses and separates went to many swanky events. A sparkly bling necklace and earrings were a necessity, too. Stiletto pumps became the hugely big footwear trend for women.

Jacquard “brocade”, satin, lace, metallic thread, organza and netting, cashmere, beads and sequins and even fur trimming – all popular materials in garments for nights out and special events. The prosperity of the Fifties brought on a real break-out in middle-class spending and ostentation. Showy was good but, fortunately, so was elegance so we had some of the most beautiful gowns produced during this time. Female movie stars of this decade were some of the best-dressed women ever seen. The first dress pictured, with the fur-trimmed sleeves, is a gorgeous example of the New Look style. Fun and novelty were also present in many examples of the more casual clothing but the cheap-looking garishness of the 1990’s was not the thing.

I love these clothes and it’s fun to show them. All would have fascinating stories. The elegance of design showed up in dressy daywear, too, and I’ll be showing some of that tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

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TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S LADIES COATS AND ACCESSORIES

Beautiful wool coats which called for lapel brooches. Umbrellas with handles made of wood, celluloid and other “new” plastics. As always, I love the pretty fabric patterns and bling alongside the tailored elegance of the coats and jackets.

You can see the wartime influence on the first coat with it’s simplicity and lack of detail while a nod to luxury has been made by the velvet collar. Military style influence is visible in the big padded shoulders and the shape of the fur hat. I can really picture Ingrid Bergman wearing a coat like the fitted one – similar to trenchcoat design a la the movie Casablanca. The pale blue version with big pink buttons is moving us toward the 1950’s.

More reasons why the 1940’s fashion decade is probably my favorite. However, the 1950’s are also a big competitor on my favorites list and we’ll travel into the early part of that decade tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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For a Far Dressier Occasion, a Sapphire Blue Fur-trimmed Frock from the Mid-century

I’ll write up my opinion below, but first a focus on the dress. Because of the sizing, I am guessing that this garment was made for a teen – or possibly for a very small woman with very little bosom. Stella’s figure fills it up too much in front, which is why the waist seam and hemline are higher than in the back. The fabric is a medium-weight brocade-look that would be appropriate for Winter or very early Spring weather. The fur is probably rabbit, but I can’t swear to that. I’d date it in the 1950’s but it could possibly have been from the very early 1960’s when that was still a sign of luxury. Pretty color, pretty dress BUT . . . . . . . . .

As an animal rights activist, I am not at all in favor of this dress but as a fashion historian, it deserves a place in the line-up. Fur trimmings on dresses, suits and coats were very popular up into early 1960’s and continued to be seen frequently on coats almost to the present. Fortunately, the fur trade has diminished in the last 10 years or so, especially in Western countries, but it’s still a big problem. Wool, cashmere, snake, lizard, eel skins and silk remain popular and they are also animal products which sometimes or always cause the death of the animals. In every case, they cause suffering and don’t belong in human clothing, in my opinion. We now have excellent replacements for them, both in appearance and performance, so no excuses. These alternatives are often still expensive, but let’s support them and they will become less and less so.

That’s the end of fur-trimmed dresses for now so stay tuned for more pretty party frocks . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM