Category Archives: navy

BEAUTIFUL RAYON DRESSY DAY-DRESS FROM THE POST-WAR 1940’S

Taking a short break from the LBDs and going for a little color. This beautiful navy blue fitted rayon dress is a perfect example of the late 1940’s return to more luxurious day wear after the restrictions of rationing were ended. The label is Loma Leads, from a dress company that was organized in the late 1920’s and operated in New York and Paris. It had several departments and was around in one form or another at least into the early 1960’s. A very uptown classic ladies dress from the time when there was more fabric available again, so hemlines came back down and extra tailoring details like the peplum and bodice tucks were again possible. Women had been SO waiting for this! The exuberance of big rhinestone buttons on a day dress speaks to the attitude of a return to extravagance in fashion. The big skirts of Christian Dior’s New Look at this time is another example.

This style, however, is very buttoned-up and, to my mind, underlines the haughty, elegant and “rich” look intended here. After all the restrictions and deprivations of the “make do and mend” wartime years, luxury and affluence were the beckoning horizon for the United States and Canada while Europe was more intent on surviving and rebuilding after all the extensive damage to their infrastructure and land. But, Paris had always led the world of couture and design so fashion bounced back there, too, as Dior and other designers met the challenges and optimism of the new era and resumed their lead.

It is so fascinating to untangle the ways that fashion trends dovetail with historical events. The clues are everywhere and a good sleuth always looks for them. A completely different example from this time tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM . . . . . .

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSY DRESSES FROM AFTER THE WAR YEARS

Here’s another group of finds that were fabulous. Let’s look at the details on these frocks, which were over-the-top when wartime rationing was no more and fashion was ready for a break-out right before the New Look. Lots of glitz – rhinestone buttons, metallic thread, sequins, beads, lots of little buttons and velvet. Hemlines went down again. Rayon reigned – it had become the darling of fabrics.

There was certainly an element of weirdness to some of these designs. The last two black dresses were discovered in Montevideo, Uruguay and had been made by specialty dressmakers. Many of their wardrobe items in that city came from France, and I suspect that there is a lot of European influence in these styles.

The top two designs are squarely U.S. American and the tag on the dress with the big velvet bow indicates that it was made by a company that was producing affordable garments, probably during the early recovery from wartime. The navy blue dress was higher-end and looks so much like the costumes seen in late 1940’s film noir.

Tomorrow we’ll look at some examples of how 1940’s dress styles have persisted during the following decades. Stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

RARE TRUE VINTAGE PRE-WWII AND WARTIME LADIES’ BLOUSES

Here are two of my oldest women’s blouses and two of the most interesting. What more can I say about the blue one? Not sure if it was home-tailored by a creative and fashion-forward gal, but I think so. Perfectly unique and attention-grabbing. What fun! Love it!!

The second blouse is from about the same time frame, but much more classic. You can see from the label that it was commercially-made and the Sanforized cotton designation puts it squarely after 1930. The Sailor collar styling was really popular for children beginning in the 1800’s, or before, but became a “thing” in women’s fashion especially in the years surrounding major wars, as did other types of military-inspired styling. It’s a classic sportswear item from the mid-century and could have been worn with a skirt, too, when women rarely wore pants or shorts.

The unusual thing about it is the tartan-weave trim. I can’t decide what may have inspired that but this blouse may have been sold in Great Britain or, possibly, was a homegrown Japanese take on U.S. and U.K. style, made to be worn locally in Japan. Some of that kind of thing was happening in Japan even decades before WWII. See how these investigative mysteries become more complex the deeper you go? I’d planned on showing more blouses today, but these two easily fill the space. I’ll continue with more tomorrow.

In the meantime, this is a NEWS FLASH! Yesterday I was on a new investigation and discovered true vintage and exceptionally-made retro garments. Both need a touch of hand-repair, so today will be a sewing day but I will post them soon. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WEIRD EARLY 1930’S – 1940’S LADIES’ HATS

The late 1930’s, coming out of the Depression, and early 1940’s were very strange times for hats. Little bowlers with chin straps and straw hats looked almost like women had raided their grandfathers’ closets. After that, hats became really odd and sometimes frankly ugly, in my opinion. Later in the Forties some beautiful hats were worn but, let me tell you, the one’s I’ve seen that have survived have generally been pretty strange. I have a photo of a relative in 1940 who wore a hat along with her wedding suit that looked like a battleship sitting across her head.

Above, we have grandpa’s hats, plus a pretty picture hat and an early wartime model that looks like a cross between a tam-o-shanter and a French beret that have been parts of Naval uniforms. I’m not quite sure how it was meant to be worn.

Later versions with veils and flowers or feathers are softer and more stylish – looking more like what we saw in the Post-war late ’40’s and early 1950’s period. In the meantime mid-’40’s came the fedora styles for women, which are my favorite. Very wearable, versatile and almost universally flattering (and perfect for any undercover agent) but not as interesting.

But, all the pre- and post-WWII fashion trends ARE very interesting and I’ll continue to delve into them. Stay tuned for fabulous wartime Utility Suits and post-war skirt suits plus 3 Prom dresses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S DRESSES

As you probably noticed in my last post looking at the 1970’s, I am not very focused on the “modern” styles from that decade because they were not interesting, in my opinion, and generally not of high quality. The same goes for lots of the 1980’s clothing, but I do enjoy some of the New Wave styles and the revival (again!) of 1940’s designs. I don’t have a large archive of New Wave examples because it was a short movement and so trendy that lots of the garments were cheaply-made and didn’t last. However, the Forties revival was a bit more mainstream and produced some dresses, etc., of better quality. The examples above cover this whole spectrum.

The first two frocks are a revival of designs giving a nod to nautical or “sailor” styles. Sailor collars, especially, have shown up on women’s dresses and children’s clothing since the 1800’s and maybe before. Blue and white have been classic color combinations in Spring fashions, too. The first example above with the outsized collar also has 1940’s-style cut, waistline, 3/4 sleeves and midi hemline. It’s a less expensive dress, very trendy and not true navy blue in color. By contrast, the second dress is true to military style with it’s embossed metal buttons, true navy blue and white colors and prominent stripes. The rest of it’s style is more New Wave, with a midriff top and geometric cut. It’s much more elegant and well-made. We saw a LOT of mid-priced floral print midi skirts and shirtwaist dresses, which were very good flashbacks to 1940’s everyday styles. Finally, I do love this brown print rayon dress by a trendy mid-priced designer (forgot her name). It’s a late ’30’s – early ’40’s design with great fabric drape. I also love this halter style floral midi – Very mid – ’40’s!

I rarely cover anything from the high fashion or couture world since my investigations don’t typically take place where those clues are likely to be found, though exceptions to the rule always exist. Tomorrow I’m going back to my primary focus on dresses and accessories actually made before 1970. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Post-war 1940’s Early 1950’s Strapless Wiggle Cocktail Dress

This one was from Chicago, as the label tells me. It’s not officially an LBD because it is actually dark mid-night navy blue in a smooth, lighter weight fabric to get that sleek silhouette. In spite of the little flesh-color straps, which might have been mostly for hanging purposes, you’ve got to have the right figure to pull this off correctly. Marilyn Monroe did it wonderfully well.

This was a one-of-a-kind find originally sold by a higher-end store in the Windy City. Would love to know who, where, when and how it was worn but, sadly, there were no additional clues. Who cares – she speaks for herself. Stay tuned for more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEST TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S SUNDAY, DINNER, PARTY, DATE, OCCASION JACKET DRESS

BEST 1950'S SUNDAY, DINNER, PARTY, DATE, OCCASION JACKET DRESS

Beautiful navy and pink combo on this special jacket-dress from the 1940’s.  A real beauty.  Nice drapey crepe in flattering navy and pink hues.

Flower petal collar. Easter splendor.  Come on Springtime! . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN,THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

LOVE IT! CUTE TAILORED 2 PIECE DRESS FROM THE SIXTIES – SEVENTIES

Lovely late-mid-century tailoring.  Picture this dress on a shorter model – it’s not supposed to be midriff-baring.  I love this nautical flair in dark navy and white, with asymetrical back and side buttons on the top.  Such an unusual design!

It’s cute and sassy while also being elegant.  That’s the best type of vintage design in smart casual wear.  They used to do it so well . . . . . . . . . . . .

I was super-happy to encounter this set.  Unusual pieces always give me a thrill.  So, wait till you see what I discovered next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE TRUE VINTAGE 1960 FINDS IN NAUTICAL COLORS

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Here are 3 of my finds from yesterday.  Remember the blouse from a few days ago and how I was talking about the traditional popularity of nautical colors for Spring?  Well, here they are again!

The navy and white items were commercially-made and the red polka dot blouse was custom-tailored.  Vintage zipper and buttons are fun.  The fit is always superior.

Fortunately, I can wear them all and, though they need to be cleaned, that’s no big deal.  At the prices I pay in the odd places I find these treasures, any laundering or repair costs are nothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SMART EVERYDAY 1960’S BLOUSE BY RHODA LEE

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Nothing way special about this shirt, but the mid-century cut and fit are very nice.  I picked it up because of that, and the true navy/white stripes – perfect for Spring!  I love separates with a nautical feel for February – April and nothing could be more classic.  That style and color combo shows up decade after decade.

With a pair of sailor pants or a pleated skirt, it’s a very cute look.  Lots of versatility for this elegant style, with nice tailoring.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM