TRUE VINTAGE POST-WAR 1940’S BEADED COCKTAIL DRESS

During a South American investigation, this frock was discovered in the beautiful and historic city of Montevideo, Uruguay. During WW 2, well-to-do Uruguayan women still had beautiful dresses made for them and did some trade in clothing and accessories from France. This dress has the label of a small tailoring shop, is exquisitely made by hand and was obviously owned by a woman from the upper class who would wear it to dinner or any semi-formal festive gathering.

Style-wise, the augmented shoulders, funky ruching on the hips and sleeves plus the midi hem point directly to the late 1940’s. Heavy decoration with beads and sequins is all done by hand, as is the finishing. Look at all the small buttons in back, each with it’s own fabric loop closure. Stay tuned for more from the 1940’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FUN TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S POST-WAR NIGHTCLUB DANCE DRESS

I’m back in black today, but more color coming. I really loved discovering this frock in Texas. Sold by an upscale privately-owned clothing company that had it’s own label. The trim is black velvet tube ribbon and the skirt is made for swingin’ and swayin’. Perfect for wearing to any dance hall or vibrant party, and we know that Texans love to party!

It’s got ruching on the sleeves, which was a favorite ’40’s tailoring feature. Nipped waist and wide skirt plus a midi hem puts in firmly in the post-war time frame. So much fun to discover – a fun dress from a very jubilant time in history. More Forties fashion coming, but dressing it up with an international twist. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE ’50’S – EARLY ’60’S COCKTAIL BLOUSE FROM DOWN UNDER

What a wonderful, unique and chic mid-century piece! Discovered during an investigation in Australia, this pretty top made in Britain (or by a British company) is made from semi-sheer fabric that has a woven-in contrasting pattern. It buttons up the back and has the distinctive feature of 3/4 length sleeves with fur cuffs. Great fit and gorgeous over a black skirt or dressy pants. Casual, but elegant.

Women’s semi-formal clothes were especially fabulous between the 1920’s and 1960’s. Although many dresses, skirts and blouses had lovely decoration in the years before, styles were too buttoned-up for my taste. After the 1960’s quality, creativity and elegance really seemed to take a dive. Give me styles from the Prohibition speakeasys, film noir and revolutionary Sixties any day. The Seventies had too much polyester, the Eighties had some great Forties retro and avante guarde New Wave but were overall too gaudy and the Nineties had an overabundance of black. Of course, great pieces were made during all these decades but seemed to be the exception. Just my opinion – you decide.

Thank goodness that modern faux fur and animal skin alternatives have become almost indistinguishable from real ones which, in my opinion, are an abomination. This also includes silk, tortoise shell, horn, coral, pearls and ivory. True vintage pieces made from these materials decades ago are an important part of fashion history and can be fun to collect and wear but I ask my viewers NEVER to support the market for these products by buying modern items made from them. This is how we can block the profit from breeding and slaughtering these wonderful creatures and stop it. If you are looking for clothing and accessories made from any of these, check at a secondhand thrift or antique store. Thank you and stay tuned for that 1940’s series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ELEGANT MOD TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S LBD

From the early to mid-1960’s, a sleek, sleeveless classic sheath style cocktail dress with a boat neckline, which I love. It’s knee to bottom-of-knee length, which is a very flattering hemline on most women and was common at that time right before almost everything had an above-the-knee or mini length. It’s so hard to get good detail on black clothing in photos, but this one is easier because the only decoration is a medium-width band of black beading at the waistline. Very well-tailored in a light-medium weight knit fabric with a very nice drape. This one factor takes it over the line from a Summer dress to one for Fall. Good quality, good fit – the signature features of well-made true vintage clothing.

I have more examples in the files of 1960’s LBDs but, in my images file, I ran across a large number of dresses of this type from the 1940’s. I’ll probably break the timeline to put these in the next posts before resuming to LBD’s from the more recent decades. I am traveling back to Headquarters as of tomorrow, so there may be a few days pause while I reorganize. Won’t be long so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S DRESSY FROCK – ANOTHER FINELY HAND -TAILORED GARMENT FROM BRITISH HONG KONG

This dress is such a treat! I was so thrilled to uncover it. Look at the marvelous tailoring details and ingenious construction – A basic sheath style, with a heavily-decorated blouson top that appears to be separate, but is attached at the shoulders and fully-lined with a white silk under-blouse. Both layers close with a metal zipper. Hooks and eyes secure the neckline for good fit. The shoulders have strap-holders sewn in. The acetate skirt is also lined with black rayon and has a wide hem allowance plus a walking vent in the rear seam. Hand-finished all over.

In the ’50’s and 1960’s a woman of moderate means could save for the occasional purchase of clothing made this way and more prosperous women had closets full of nothing else. These were the standards of better-made garments during the mid-century. Now even very expensive clothing is sometimes constructed poorly and hardly ever as well as this dress is. The attention to detail and hand-done stitching made clothing fit better look more polished.

Tomorrow I’ll show you another frock from this decade. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TWO FRESH HANDBAG FINDS! NEW WAVE 1980’S BACK TO THE MID-CENTURY. COULDN’T BE MORE DIFFERENT.

I’m always delighted to find a New Wave early 1980’s piece in beautiful condition. The shadow lines seen in the photo are just a reflection from the glossy surface. This black silk satin evening bag with a gold-tone geometric chain handle was made in Italy and sold by Holt Renfrew, a luxury department store in Canada. It’s very sleek and slim – a great example of the genre. Wouldn’t you know, I have a black leather cinch belt with gold edging from 1980 – perfect match!

Another little coin purse was found at the same location. It’s vinyl from the 1950’s or, more likely, the early 1960’s. Durable and cute, but cheap and hardly elegant. Why did I bother to collect this? Well, if you carry true vintage handbags regularly, you know that although some of the best ones had little matching coin purses tucked inside and attached by a cord, the majority had no secure place to carry coins. That always had to come from a separate coin purse or a ladies’ wallet which had a coin purse inside (or her escort’s pocket). Wallets like that were rarely, if ever, made for women before the late 1950’s and early 1960’s, in my experience. I wonder if that had anything to do with women’s ability to manage their own money? But, I digress . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fortunately, that’s one thing we can more or less take for granted now and I don’t like hunting in the bottom of a handbag or in a pocket for change. Much less do I like to mend holes in the bottoms of pockets that have been abused that way. Therefore, handy purse accessories are always at the top of my list when I’m investigating. And sometimes, the most interesting clues can be found inside. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LADIES’ DRESSY AND FORMAL – WEAR FROM THE EARLY 1950’S

From cocktail party to Prom to a wedding, these dresses and separates went to many swanky events. A sparkly bling necklace and earrings were a necessity, too. Stiletto pumps became the hugely big footwear trend for women.

Jacquard “brocade”, satin, lace, metallic thread, organza and netting, cashmere, beads and sequins and even fur trimming – all popular materials in garments for nights out and special events. The prosperity of the Fifties brought on a real break-out in middle-class spending and ostentation. Showy was good but, fortunately, so was elegance so we had some of the most beautiful gowns produced during this time. Female movie stars of this decade were some of the best-dressed women ever seen. The first dress pictured, with the fur-trimmed sleeves, is a gorgeous example of the New Look style. Fun and novelty were also present in many examples of the more casual clothing but the cheap-looking garishness of the 1990’s was not the thing.

I love these clothes and it’s fun to show them. All would have fascinating stories. The elegance of design showed up in dressy daywear, too, and I’ll be showing some of that tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSY DRESSES FROM AFTER THE WAR YEARS

Here’s another group of finds that were fabulous. Let’s look at the details on these frocks, which were over-the-top when wartime rationing was no more and fashion was ready for a break-out right before the New Look. Lots of glitz – rhinestone buttons, metallic thread, sequins, beads, lots of little buttons and velvet. Hemlines went down again. Rayon reigned – it had become the darling of fabrics.

There was certainly an element of weirdness to some of these designs. The last two black dresses were discovered in Montevideo, Uruguay and had been made by specialty dressmakers. Many of their wardrobe items in that city came from France, and I suspect that there is a lot of European influence in these styles.

The top two designs are squarely U.S. American and the tag on the dress with the big velvet bow indicates that it was made by a company that was producing affordable garments, probably during the early recovery from wartime. The navy blue dress was higher-end and looks so much like the costumes seen in late 1940’s film noir.

Tomorrow we’ll look at some examples of how 1940’s dress styles have persisted during the following decades. Stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

RARE NEW FIND! 1940’S DRESSY VELVETEEN JACKET

Nothing wonky about this jacket. It just needs a good clean and steam. Plus, I wish my team of models were with me as it would look so much better on Stella, maybe over a dressy 1940’s frock as it was intended for. Use your imagination. Anyway, I love, love it! Anything from this fashion decade thrills me, but a piece like this is so difficult to find and such a wardrobe necessity. Gals in the 1940’s often wore a fur stole or jacket with their evening outfits but, since we don’t do that anymore unless it’s a true vintage piece, a formal alternative is so important.

Probably handmade, from cotton velveteen. No lining, but none needed – the reverse side of the velveteen is a very smooth weave. Great peplum waist, a little longer in the back, and a big button to close. 3/4 sleeves with scalloped vents. Love this detail, too.

I’m over the moon and, as I always say -“You just never know” what might turn up. I’ll post my second find, exciting in a different way, tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Formal for Holiday Season Gala Nights

Right about now, usually after the U.S. Thanksgiving holiday, the build-up-to-Christmas galas and formal parties seem to begin and gather momentum. This is, to my mind, the beginning of a formalwear season in the northern countries that lasts through St. Valentine’s Day and picks up speed heading into Prom, with a bump of semi-formal events around Easter and ends, more or less, with bridal events in June. I guess this is the way that humanity has amused itself during the colder months when daily outdoor activities are not generally practical.

The above frock is a beautiful example of many I have seen by Alyce Designs. Most are highly embellished, like this one. Although they are more “modern true vintage” (1970’s – 1990’s), they do have excellent tailoring unlike many garments made since the 1960’s. I believe that the company may still be making dresses, but of course I am not interested now. However, this one is old enough and well enough done that it deserves a showing. I do love the beading on sheer fabric and the nod to 1920’s style.

So, we’ll be heading into a stream of transmissions which will include clues related to semi-formal and formal events. But, evidence from new investigations comes up at random times so stay tuned . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM