Category Archives: crocheted

1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LATE 1930’S DAY AND DRESSIER FROCK and ACCESSORIES

Too many photos to do both decades together! I’ll spread them out over 2 or 3 days instead. Here are a couple of pretty 1930’s frocks and their accompaniments. First, one that our Depression Era gal might have worn to town. Perfect for shopping and a movie. It’s a lovely crocheted lace over-dress with a matching acetate satin slip underneath. Look at the celluloid belt buckle, also died to match.

The second dress is a rayon sheath with an over-blouse look and Art Deco beaded decoration. She might have worn it to cocktails, dinner and dancing later. Probably, the hemline would have been midi-length on her figure. An acetate slip underneath would have enhanced the fit and it has such unusual decoration on the bodice.

No matter where she was going, she might have carried a chatelaine rouge and powder compact and an antique needlepoint handbag. The clutch above also has a celluloid closure on the metal frame. The pot metal charm bracelet for daytime has European coins and Depression Era male figures dangling – a soldier, a laborer and a tycoon.

Pretty but practical shoes made for walking and dancing – and, of course, she can’t go anywhere without her 1930’s Zippo lighter. She’ll want to visit the smoking lounge during the movie matinee’.

Late Thirties – Forties tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’s FORMAL DRESSES, PLUS A DRESSY 1930’s CLUTCH PURSE

Beautiful, glossy fabrics – most of them synthetics – and lovely designs. I adore them all, but especially the first one. Let’s look at them one by one.

The first gown has a dark green velvet bodice, trimmed with the same pale green satin fabric that the skirt is made from. So flattering and luxurious. The bright red dress is a more conservative style, but still gorgeous. It’s made of an interesting fabric type which I’ve seen in other 1940’s dresses – it has a satin finish but with tiny black diamonds machine-embroidered all over. I suspect that this fabric, though lovely, was a more economical one.

The blue dress was tailor-made by hand. It is sewn from a bias-cut rayon which gives it that wonderful, drapey fit. The atomic/stellar cut-outs surrounded by seed beads were all done by handwork. I love the cut of the sleeves and the way the bustline and waistline are finished. That back tie belt gives it a really wasp-waist fit.

Finally, the black velvet two-piece dress is an entirely different design. Very proper and buttoned-up in velvet and crocheted lace, with rhinestone-center buttons.

Each of these gowns was a surprising and fabulous find. It’s rare to find 1940’s formal garments in the first place, and to find them in near-perfect condition is almost unheard of. The best bet is if they can be acquired from the original owner, or their estate. This is always a more informative clue when starting any investigation.

I’ve re-opened the 1940’s archives and am finding myself doing a deep dive there. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Ladies’ Sweaters 1940’s – 1970’s

Just a few examples of the many styles and varieties in my archives, but this assortment is a good beginning. The most classic, and probably the most numerous of my discoveries, have been cardigans. Finely made cashmere sweaters, like my mother’s yellow one with appliqued flowers, were a staple for the college coed in the late 1930’s to 1940’s. Plain styles were often worn in reverse, with the buttons in back. Up through the 1950’s to the early 1960’s beaded and embroidered cardigans were hugely popular and the designs were endless. Most were commercially-made, many of the best ones in British Hong Kong, but some women decorated theirs at home. My mother bought this yellow sweater jacket by Banff in the early 1960’s.

Of course, there were v-neck, crew neck, and collared sweaters in all sorts of variety. Most were nice, but casual styles made to wear with skirts and, later, with slacks. Wool sweaters provided the most warmth for colder months and, until Orlon became available, almost all sweaters were made of wool. Synthetics were really given a boost during WWII because of the government’s requisitioning of wool for military uniforms.

The turtleneck that we love now didn’t seem to show up too much in everyone’s closets until the early 1960’s. Until then, it was a little more avant guarde or unconventional for the average gal though they were on the scene from the 1920’s. Always a sportswear item, especially from the time women began to dress more casually in the 1940’s, women’s sweaters became less dressy. We’d begin to see themed sweaters like this Las Vegas souvenir from the 1970’s or with prominent monograms, mostly in the ’50’s. Of course, many mid-century women knitted and crocheted tons of styles at home, from super-casual to evening styles.

True vintage sweaters from before the 1970’s when acrylic yarn took over are a rare and fabulous find. Moth damage, pills and snags usually took most of them out of circulation. Though I have many, it’s only possible to show sample at one time. A few ladies’ casual Spring jackets tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A FABULOUS EARLY 1950’S JUNE WEDDING – IN HANDMADE LACE

IMG_1479     Count on the McCall’s magazine to come up with everything! – including patterns for hand-crocheted or knitted dresses for all the women in your wedding party.  Unbelievable!!

Well, it would certainly have kept the cost down.  Many women did make their wedding gowns and attendants’ dresses in the past, or have them made, but usually the designs weren’t so labor-intensive as something like this.  Can you imagine, with everything else there is to do to prepare for a wedding?

So, that was life in the early 1950’s.   A lot simpler in some ways, a lot more tedious in others – but we’ve lost most of the elegance along the way.  We’ll keep stepping back in time with my latest finds . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

PRETTY SUMMER PURSE FROM THE 1960’S OR 1970’S – MADE IN THE PHILLIPINES

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This little handbag shows the best of the trademarks of it’s time.  Crocheted cover and full lining.  Handmade.  The natural bamboo frame is lovely and the medium size with inside pocket makes it very practical.

Although I have others similar, this example was special enough to make me snap it up.  One this clean and undamaged, especially with a needlework cover, is a super-rare find!  But, doesn’t surprise me – you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A TRUE VINTAGE KNITTED SWEATER CAPE BY BANFF, FROM THE 1960’S OR EARLY ’70’S

A TRUE VINTAGE KNITTED SWEATER CAPE BY BANFF, FROM THE 1960'S OR EARLY '70'S

These types of sweaters/capes/ponchos were popular in the ’60’s and a lot of women knitted them themselves. This one is made by the Banff company, which produced a lot of really nice knits. I have a beaded sweater, knit dresses and suits by them, too.

The greatest feature, to me, is the armholes that allow you to have hands free. Any cape with this design is wonderful because it raises the convenience level big time!

Another nice thing is the button front. Also convenient. The fringe is lovely and the acrylic yarn also great because it washes so nicely and gives warmth but doesn’t have the weight and care issues of most wool items.

Sweet little sweater things, whether cardigans, pull-overs, jackets & coats, dresses and skirts,etc. were really popular in the ’60’s and early ’70’s and are very different from the things made now.

I love finding these beautiful vintage garments that are so unique, stylish and of exceptional quality. This one is an open-weave, so perfect for late Spring, early Fall and cool Summer nights.

True vintage sweater knits are not common finds (are any really common?) but definitely worth the treasure hunt . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY FALL COATS & JACKETS TO MAKE AT HOME!

IMG_1030 IMG_1048 Need a new coat?  Well, in just a few minutes of your spare time . . . . . . Right!   McCalls Needlework Magazine used to publish patterns for projects like these all year.  In the 1950’s and 1960’s it was so common.

Aren’t they beautiful? – But, can you imagine making one??  Your grandmother might have.  I rarely find a hand-knitted one now, but once in a while . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

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DRESSY TRUE VINTAGE HAND-KNITTED OR CROCHETED SHAWLS FOR HOLIDAY PARTIES, COTILLIONS, THE OPERA . . . . . . . . .

DRESSY TRUE VINTAGE CROCHETED SHAWLS FOR HOLIDAY PARTIES, COTILLIONS, THE OPERA . . . . . . . . .

Two beautiful hand-crocheted or knitted shawls for party-wear or any festive occasion. In neutral pastel shades with metallic yarn accents.

Items like this were especially popular in the years moving from the 1950’s to the 1960’s. Many women made these garments at home.  Nothing dresses up a little black dress in such a feminine and beguiling way as a needlework accessory.

If you like doing handiwork, look for old pattern and instruction books from the ’50’s and ’60’s.  Although many types of scarves and shawls are sold now, nothing compares to a handmade item in a soft, genuine wool yarn.

And, if you can find a true vintage shawl – go for it!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

SO SIXTIES TRUE VINTAGE FALL/WINTER HIPPIE MEETS THE OFFICE DRESS

IMG_1752Isn’t this the neatest and most unusual thing?

     It’s from the mid to late 1960’s and made of soft wool – knit on top, and crocheted below with an acetate lining.  Looks like a working-girl’s dress, or maybe for a serious student.

I’d never seen one just like this before!  Although the skirt looks hand-done, the dress was commercially-made.  It’s so much fun, and just right for this time of year when, at least some days, it’s getting pretty cold.  But, the nice thing about this wool, and another one I’ll show you soon, is that it’s so soft you can wear it without a slip and not feel prickled at all.

So many uncommon finds, and it just keeps on going . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM