TRUE VINTAGE HOME-SEWN LATE 1960’S – EARLY 1970’S ANSWER TO THE LBD

OK, now we find ourselves in about 1968 – 1972. Culture has changed big-time since 1963. Before the Prairie-style trend of the early – mid 1970’s, there was a heavy swing to Medieval and Edwardian style with lots of crushed velvet, panne’ velvet, pirate sleeves, ruffled cuffs and braided trim. This little black dress which was made at home has most of those features, plus a mini hemline and an elasticized waistline but otherwise is styled more like a tunic. No embellishment excepting for the gold braid around the neckline. Hardly a cocktail dress. I’m guessing that some teen girl might have worn it to her high school homecoming dance.

Fashion follows culture and history. The neat, feminine and careful tailoring of the 1940’s – early 1960’s kind of went out the window in favor of looser silhouettes and flowing skirts. Some commercially-produced dresses were less casual but younger women tended to prefer the bohemian look. As often happens, the Prairie style that followed in the early 1970’s, with its long skirts, tight bodices and cinched waists was a reactionary swing toward conservatism that entered pop culture under the radar. Most women didn’t realize that popular fashion reflected a wish to put women back into a social role from the past. However, some women got it. During the early 1970’s there was also a style trend toward 1940’s fashion – a time when women broke out of traditional roles to enter the workplace as part of the war effort during WW2. Remember Rosie the Riveter.

The push for women’s equal rights made great strides during the decade of the 1970’s. But, we now know that those gains may have made us complacent and that we can’t afford to be.

Tomorrow we’ll visit the 1980’s and explore these clues a little farther. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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ANOTHER FABULOUS FIND FROM THE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S ERA

Though sometimes referred to as an accessory, beautiful lingerie slips used to be a primary part of a woman’s wardrobe worn almost every day. They used to be frequent finds during my investigations. In the recent years, that’s become less and less true but my radar is always tuned. On a rack containing several slips which looked very much the same I spotted one which was different.

With closer examination, I found that the hardware on the straps was metal rather than plastic. The lace trim was applique’ed on top of the fabric rather than being stitched into seams. The sheer panels at the neckline are absolutely different from any seen on newer pieces. When I felt the nylon material, although it looked almost exactly like the others, the feel was completely different – heavier, smoother. These clues told me that I had found a slip from the 1950’s or very early 1960’s. The length is also a reliable clue – below the knee on tall Stella is almost midi-length on a woman of average height. Unfortunately, all the tags had been removed but the quality is the proof. Finding a black slip is a plus, too, because the majority were white or occasionally beige. Finding a pretty pastel or a bright color is also wonderful and, now, rare. The decoration on these pieces is always superior and absolutely beautiful. (The photos could be better, but I’ve always found it difficult to capture details on black garments).

So, naturally, I was over the moon and it rounded out my successful sleuthing investigation very nicely. There is one more discovery from this episode to show you but I will return to the Cocktail circuit to finish the 1960’s first. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RARE TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S – 1960’S ACCESSORY FIND

During my very recent investigation I also discovered this fabulous belt that excites me to no end! Because of the markings inside, I am confident that it is probably from the 1950’s or early 1960’s, perhaps as an accessory to a size 10 dress. Better yet, it fits me!

The belt is in fabulous shape. I don’t believe that it is made of patent leather, but of a good quality vinyl from that era. It will look great on any dress and I can see it on a pair of cigarette pants, too, since most from that era would be high-waisted. The elegance and shine adds to any party or dressy outfit. The biggest reason that this find thrills me, aside from what I’ve already said, is it’s rarity. Finding great belts from this era is not common! Scarves, purses and jewelry have fared a little better over the years but belts receive more wear and often simply disappear.

So, thank the Universe and congratulations to me. In this photo the iconic 1960’s wool boucle’ fabric of the dress in yesterday’s post is seen in much better detail. Tomorrow I’ll show another wardrobe “accessory” that I found that same day – also becoming rare. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MOD 1960’S COCKTAIL SHEATH DRESS BY CAROL CRAIG

Here we’ve got a black crepe sheath, gently fitted with a band of op-art bling at the hemline. Notice that the hemline has become shorter than in the previous examples. Although it’s obviously a cocktail party style, there’s nothing dressy here excepting the band of sequins. Classic and simple – could cautiously be described as elegant on that account – but seems pretty “ho-hum” to me though we have to remember that in 1964 or so this would have been seen as fashion-forward in a mid-priced dress.

Carol Craig was a mid-century division of the Loma Dress company and designed moderately-priced frocks in Misses sizes during the 1950’s and 1960’s. In my experience, they’re not “cream-of-the-crop” but very nice and stylish for the time; worth collecting. I’ll see about showing my “new” 1960’s finds from yesterday before getting back onto the LBD and cocktail circuit. Stay tuned . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY’

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S LBD FROM SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

Definitely a conservative, go-almost-anywhere style but with an upper-mid-level pedigree as it has a Saks Fifth Avenue label (take my word for it). The hemline still hovers below the knee, but we see a stand collar, which is becoming more popular on ’60’s dresses and tops. The sequin trim on the collar and skirt defines it as a semi-formal cocktail design. Though you wouldn’t be likely to turn many heads on your entrance to the party, that’s exactly the impression that many upper class women have wanted to make, especially in the Mid-West (and this dress likely came from Saks in Chicago).

Excellent tailoring, as would be expected, and perfectly classic in design. The aristocratic heritage is what makes this evidence collectible. Moving ahead into the mid-’60’s we’ll lighten up a little. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A PRETTY LITTLE LBD COCKTAIL DESIGN FROM THE 1960’S – 1970’S

In terms of it’s pedigree, this dress has nothing to brag about. In fact, it’s very cheaply made; But, I decided to include it here because of the bodice design. This sheer panel with small decorative embellishments is something that I’ve seen several times on 1940’s and 1950’s styles. It’s an attractive but conservative way of accenting the shoulders and mimicking a strapless effect without any of the architectural challenges (the dreaded wardrobe malfunction).

The prettiest and most interesting version I’ve seen was a 1950’s beige sheath with a asymmetrical bodice. The sheer part had some little flower motifs worked into the fabric at intervals but everything was a beige skin-tone. The wearer certainly didn’t look nude, but the effect was much more subtle and attractive. If I come across the photo in the archives, I will publish it. Back to finer examples of Sixties LBDs tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LAST CHANCE TO WEAR MY 1960’S KENNEDY ERA SUMMER PUMPS!

It’s almost Labor Day, OMG!! According to the North American dress codes of the 1960’s, wearing white or shoes with cutouts like these pale beige ones after Labor Day would have been a traditional fashion faux pas (in other words, big “no, no”); an embarrassing mistake that spoke to your lack of fashion sense.

With great respect to individual and cultural standards of proper dress and modesty, thank goodness those rules no longer apply in general! Unlike our grandmothers and maybe our mothers, we can wear white and pastels whenever we want to!! We can also wear black to a wedding, white or bright colors to a funeral, slacks anywhere, sleeveless blouses anytime, shorts and sandals year-round, weather permitting. Good taste and elegance are, of course, another matter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

In 1960’s shoes like these, our grannies wouldn’t face the Fashion Police in any way. They’re exceptionally well-made (how could they have lasted so long if not?), color is pretty universal and not offensive, style is modest and mainstream and they’re comfortable for walking. Not my favorite style, but worth collecting.

That said, I much prefer the 1980’s Italian-made sandals discovery that I just posted a few days ago – interesting design, great quality, elegant and versatile style and much more flattering. But, hey, we don’t have any lock on that in the more recent decades. Fabulous avante garde and va-va-voom styles have been produced at least for the past 100 years. I should review the archives ……

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MY VERY LATEST FIND: A PAIR OF ICONIC KENNEDY-ERA GLOVES. TOO SPECIAL TO PASS UP . . . . . . .

Who doesn’t have mid-century white wrist-length gloves passed down by the older women in their families? I’ve got a collection, both of “heritage” gloves and those that I’ve discovered during past investigations. Cotton, leather, suede, synthetic – I’ve kept only the best of the best. Like handkerchiefs and little hats, these gloves were ubiquitous – every woman had them because in the late 1950’s through the early 1960’s they were mandatory when you left the house. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy made them a true fashion statement that no well-dressed woman would be seen without.

So, a ton of them have been out in the vintage marketplace even though they’re not a wardrobe staple anymore. But, wait . . . . . . . . gloves, in general, are definitely a wardrobe staple and these are PERFECT! What do you wear with a white jacket or coat on a cool day? How do you save your white leather gloves from getting dirty? Beautifully hand-tailored gloves like these are a great alternative. Even if you’re not wearing an early ’60’s dress, these are classic enough to wear with anything, including slacks.

Other factors which made these a catch, besides their beauty, and caused me to pick them up: 1. The synthetic fabric – probably nylon or a nylon blend – has stretch which makes them super comfortable and flexible as well as giving a good fit. 2. This type of fabric washes well, similar to nylon lingerie slips. You can even wash them in hot water if you need to and as long as the decoration will tolerate it (but those buttons can easily be detached for laundering and re-sewn on). 3. This is maybe the BIGGEST PLUS – like nylon slips, in my experience, they take dye very well and can be dyed to match anything you’d like!!!

That’s my very latest find and I was thrilled to discover them. You just never know! Now, I only have to decide on the color . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE UNUSUAL MID-CENTURY MEN’S LEATHER BILLFOLD

Here’s my next deja’ vu find – similar but completely different from the wallet found and posted two weeks ago. This well-made billfold is very unique, also with tooled details but very different from the other’s style. The decoration almost makes you think that it could have been designed for women, but I’m going to stick with the conclusion that it was made for men because it is so slim. Women’s true vintage billfolds generally are much thicker and were meant to be carried inside a purse rather than in a pocket. However, I’ll happily use it! Another similarity to the wallet shown two weeks ago is the unusual coin-purse inside. What a surprise to find this feature again! One of the most frustrating things about men’s wallets is no good place to put coins and other small items. What could be more practical for a man or a woman? No more holes in pants pockets from digging for the loose coins at the bottom!

It’s made by another iconic brand – Toolcraft, made in Canada. As I always say, I can’t send enough love for the quality of goods made before about 1970. Also, lots of love to the women, and men, who valued quality over quantity and took care with their possessions so that they would truly last for decades as opposed to the culture we have today which just produces mountains of trash.

OK, enough of that because a true vintage investigator is free from it! And, this is not the last of my latest discoveries – stay tuned for the next transmission .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’s DRESSES IN THE MAD, MOD WORLD

Flower-power mini-dresses, traffic light neon colors, military-styling, psychedelic prints! These trends all appeared during the middle years of the 1960’s. Cotton is out – all these dresses are made from some form of synthetic fabric. So different from the previous decades, even though some of the classic details still crop up and garments are still well-made. See the Peter Pan collar on dress #1? The contrasting edging on the yellow sheath? Nehru collar (both military and Asian) and metal hardware on the stop sign red dress? Swirly hallucinogenic op-art on a classic shirtdress style? Perfect reflections of social culture, which was morphing yearly between Peace & Love, End the Vietnam War, Sex, Drugs & Heavy Metal rock n’ roll. In spite of all that, look at the tailoring!!

Pretty lingerie slips were still called for with these fitted frocks but the longer lengths were no longer suitable. Knee-length, at the longest, and mini-length became available. Wonderful nylon that tolerates hot water and can be dyed even allowed some creative girl to do a tie-dye.

Tomorrow we’ll take a stroll in some late 1960’s dresses and visit Carnaby Street. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM