JUST FOUND! A BEAUTIFUL TRUE VINTAGE ACCESSORY IN CLASSIC TOOLED LEATHER

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I always LOVE discovering these gorgeous handmade leather accessories from the mid-century. As they become rarer, it’s a huge thrill to uncover one by surprise! In this case, the wallet is so classic and early mid-century that I love the design. An added bonus is the near-perfect condition. A small amount of common greenish corrosion can be seen on the metal snap closing the coin pocket but it works perfectly. I will remove the corrosion with a bit of vinegar. Other signs of light use are very minor – looks like it was cared for lovingly.

Let’s start the evaluation with the exterior, which has a traditional rosebush motif. This is an early pattern, seen on some of the older items I’ve found. It’s amazing to find the leather lacing around the edges unbroken and in such pristine condition. On the inside, I adore the additional features such as sleeves for a drivers license and other cards, receipts, etc. This billfold was probably made for a man in spite of the rose design, likely before the time of common credit cards, but has such an unusual addition of the coin purse inside; Multi-tasking before the modern era of man-purses and other pocket accessories. However, the bi-color interior is also an unexpected feature to see in an older men’s accessory. Who knows the sex of the original owner? I always love a mystery!!

This beauty will have a gentle massage with leather lotion to extend it’s lifetime even more. Back at Headquarters, I’ll look in the files to see which of my tooled leather purses may need an additional accessory – I always try to match the finishes and designs, if possible. If there’s no good match, this billfold can stand on its own, with spaces for all money-related items (excepting a checkbook).

So, two surprise discoveries in my brief investigation two days ago and both of them unusual and wonderful! See my other find in yesterday’s post. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS AND FUN SURPRISE FIND – TRUE VINTAGE, AS ALWAYS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A wonderful authentic Lily blouse from the 1970’s! I was out and about dropping off a charity donation and found this beautiful shirt. Such a surprise; I have several other Lily blouses in my closet, from the 1960’s but haven’t seen one during an investigation for a long time. These lovely shirts were a mid-century staple. The signature fabric is so soft and airy, the pretty embroidery done so well. Most older ones had monochromatic Asian-inspired designs. This one is similar to colorful Latin American indigenous designs, which became more popular in the early 1970’s.

I love the old-style sizing on these blouses and am thrilled that it is in a size I can wear – just about a modern size 2(which would be perfect for Stella, as well. I certainly miss her when I’m not at Headquarters. See her modeling work in many previous posts). It also has double-button cuffs, which is another late 1960’s – early 1970’s tailoring detail, AND a button and loop at the neckline which can be fastened to lessen gaping there, if you want to. True vintage garments almost always have such excellent tailoring and, despite it’s age, I see no signs of wear. The previous owner may have washed it by hand, which would be so easy to do, and avoided the wear and tear of traditional machine washing. So, this lovely won’t be going to eBay or Etsy!!

I also found another true vintage item in pristine condition, which I will post tomorrow. I’m a Satisfied Sleuther!! Just goes to show that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S DRESSES

As you probably noticed in my last post looking at the 1970’s, I am not very focused on the “modern” styles from that decade because they were not interesting, in my opinion, and generally not of high quality. The same goes for lots of the 1980’s clothing, but I do enjoy some of the New Wave styles and the revival (again!) of 1940’s designs. I don’t have a large archive of New Wave examples because it was a short movement and so trendy that lots of the garments were cheaply-made and didn’t last. However, the Forties revival was a bit more mainstream and produced some dresses, etc., of better quality. The examples above cover this whole spectrum.

The first two frocks are a revival of designs giving a nod to nautical or “sailor” styles. Sailor collars, especially, have shown up on women’s dresses and children’s clothing since the 1800’s and maybe before. Blue and white have been classic color combinations in Spring fashions, too. The first example above with the outsized collar also has 1940’s-style cut, waistline, 3/4 sleeves and midi hemline. It’s a less expensive dress, very trendy and not true navy blue in color. By contrast, the second dress is true to military style with it’s embossed metal buttons, true navy blue and white colors and prominent stripes. The rest of it’s style is more New Wave, with a midriff top and geometric cut. It’s much more elegant and well-made. We saw a LOT of mid-priced floral print midi skirts and shirtwaist dresses, which were very good flashbacks to 1940’s everyday styles. Finally, I do love this brown print rayon dress by a trendy mid-priced designer (forgot her name). It’s a late ’30’s – early ’40’s design with great fabric drape. I also love this halter style floral midi – Very mid – ’40’s!

I rarely cover anything from the high fashion or couture world since my investigations don’t typically take place where those clues are likely to be found, though exceptions to the rule always exist. Tomorrow I’m going back to my primary focus on dresses and accessories actually made before 1970. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BACK TO LONG DRESSES FOR WINTER HOLIDAY PARTIES. LET’S START WITH A 1930’S RETRO FROCK.

Cold shoulder tailoring and drapey, body con fit was a VERY Deco style. This is a custom-made gown from the mid-century. I can tell from the fabric that this gorgeous dark green velvet didn’t come from the 1930’s. Probably 1960’s or 1970’s – true vintage retro! It’s still a beautiful and unusual dress . . wonder if it was made for a special event, as a glam hostess dress or a costume for a theater production? I’ll wear it in a heartbeat.

Jewel colors are super for winter fashions, as well as black and white. I’ll show more of these in the next few posts as we come forward through the decades. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Classic True Vintage 1980’s does 1940’s Dressy LBD

Not a big-deal frock by any means, but I picked it up because of the clear 1940’s vibe. I’ve seen and own similar dresses that are true late 1940’s editions. Essential tailoring includes the cut which highlights the fabric drape and the fit on the body. Sexy fit without being clingy. Padded shoulders – very Forties, and cap sleeves – moving into the 1950’s. Rhinestone trim, always super mid-century, and a plunging back view with a conservative impression from the front. A fun surprise in any style.

An original 1940’s would be of at least slightly longer length and might have a side zipper. Again, nothing to celebrate but a worthy imitation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Cute LBD with Iconic Mid-century Tailoring Detail

I admit, this dress is no star with regard to overall quality. Very middle-of-the-road in that department, but I couldn’t help being struck by the embroidered sheer mesh bodice. This is a detail that I have seen in 1940’s and early 1950’s frocks; usually not since then. The gold thread gives it a holiday feel which makes styles like this appropriate for Christmas events. The fabric leads me to decide that this garment was made in the 1960’s at the earliest – possibly as late as the 1990’s.

I have to give the designer congrats for using this tailoring again. It’s so attractive and feminine, allowing for an interesting neckline without gapping, buckling or too much de’collete’ to allow it to be truly elegant. This frock drapes well and fits beautifully in the bodice. The only improvements I would point out might be a full lining, which would support the lines better without fullness. That would make it a very sophisticated cocktail dress. .

Of course, this one might have been a late 1970’s disco design in which case you wouldn’t want to add any bulk to the skirt or a potentially sweaty lining, for that matter. In any case, it’s cute and can stand proud exactly as it is. Stay tuned for more cocktail frocks, each with it’s own personal character . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY DOES 1920’S SEMI-FORMAL DRESS

Sometime during a brief 1920’s style revival in the l960’s – 1980’s this frock was produced. It’s not a style that is flattering to everyone but, of course, Stella can pull it off perfectly. In this pure white, it may have been made as a lower-priced wedding costume alternative by some company that made bridal dresses. While obviously not high end, it’s pretty and flirty.

Love the handkerchief hemline! Can you imagine a gown in this style, made of fine silk and satin with handmade lace? During the Gatsby gilded age brides from wealthy families would have been dressed that way. Today it would make a fun Halloween or theater costume. Dresses that are obviously tied to a theme or era are always interesting whether they are true vintage, retro or modern. Of course, I always sleuth for the original evidence. More coming, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEW TRUE VINTAGE FIND – HOME-SEWN MID-CENTURY BOHO ETHNIC SKIRT

I always collect true vintage separates – especially those that are fun and unusual. They usually tell a story. This one is in great shape with evidence of being custom-tailored by a home-based “seamster” (probably a woman, but who knows?). One thing I know by an interior-only clue is that s/he probably had a little dog or other small pet. S/he very frugally used seam tape that had been chewed a bit. No problem – it did the job.

It could be part of an ethnic costume or simply one of the Boho styles which were very trendy in some ways between 1955 and 1975. I love the dirndl style and colorful weave, almost like home-loomed fabric. I don’t have any special knowledge about ethnic dress that would allow me to pinpoint more closely. Anyway, it’s flattering and easy-wear. Good for mix and match with a variety of tops for different looks and different weathers.

What else makes this special and very wearable in cooler weather? The colors and medium weight are good for 3-season wear. It’s possible that the material contains wool. Would look great with tights, boots or even some leggings. Separates are a useful way to add variety to a true vintage wardrobe and to dress “vintage” without having a complete outfit. Added to my go-to daily wardrobe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

PRETTY LITTLE PINK PUMPS

Maybe Peggy Sue wore these to the Prom. Entirely possible – Life Stride brand shoes were mid-priced and available at shoe stores in town centers where everybody shopped in mid-century America. A very popular brand; they often sold purses to match the shoes. This was a big deal for women in the 1950’s and early 1960’s and tons of them were sold. Looks like the company, in some form, is still operating. If you shop Walmart, take a look there but I doubt you’ll find anything nearly as wonderful as these, and certainly not with the history . . .. . . . .

Let me know if you have any Life Stride stories. I’d love to have them for the archives and stay tuned.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A Pretty 1960’s – ’70’s Party Dress by Miss Elliette of California

I pulled this little beauty out of the archives to decide whether she gets a permanent place in the closet or the chopping block . . . . . . . . . . . ..

The 1970’s was not a banner decade for high quality fashion, in my opinion, but this is a lovely example of the mid-priced garments available then so worth collecting. It’s nicely designed and tailored with gathers at the neckline, knife pleating and piping finish at the neck and wrists; a flattering style with well-done tailoring details and features that were popular in some of the better dresses. Of course, a full matching lining in the body is essential.

Alas, it’s not a perfect fit nor the best color for me so it’s off to eBay. Sometimes, spycraft must be ruthless. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM