TRUE VINTAGE HOME-SEWN LATE 1960’S – EARLY 1970’S ANSWER TO THE LBD

OK, now we find ourselves in about 1968 – 1972. Culture has changed big-time since 1963. Before the Prairie-style trend of the early – mid 1970’s, there was a heavy swing to Medieval and Edwardian style with lots of crushed velvet, panne’ velvet, pirate sleeves, ruffled cuffs and braided trim. This little black dress which was made at home has most of those features, plus a mini hemline and an elasticized waistline but otherwise is styled more like a tunic. No embellishment excepting for the gold braid around the neckline. Hardly a cocktail dress. I’m guessing that some teen girl might have worn it to her high school homecoming dance.

Fashion follows culture and history. The neat, feminine and careful tailoring of the 1940’s – early 1960’s kind of went out the window in favor of looser silhouettes and flowing skirts. Some commercially-produced dresses were less casual but younger women tended to prefer the bohemian look. As often happens, the Prairie style that followed in the early 1970’s, with its long skirts, tight bodices and cinched waists was a reactionary swing toward conservatism that entered pop culture under the radar. Most women didn’t realize that popular fashion reflected a wish to put women back into a social role from the past. However, some women got it. During the early 1970’s there was also a style trend toward 1940’s fashion – a time when women broke out of traditional roles to enter the workplace as part of the war effort during WW2. Remember Rosie the Riveter.

The push for women’s equal rights made great strides during the decade of the 1970’s. But, we now know that those gains may have made us complacent and that we can’t afford to be.

Tomorrow we’ll visit the 1980’s and explore these clues a little farther. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-1960’s BLACK JACQUARD ASIAN-STYLE LBD

Since the Post-war 1950’s, interest in Asian-style dresses (and other garments) has grown, with pretty sheaths like this one creeping into women’s closets. Clothing made in British Hong Kong established a reputation for being exceptionally well-made. Tailors from China, principally, expanded their clientele and any city’s Chinatown was a great place to shop. Silk and hand-decorated versions are always the most beautiful, but all these clothes tend to be well-made, often with hand-done finishing. Because of their persistent fashionable presence, excellent quality and traditional design they can be categorized as Classic clothing. Though they are mass-produced now, versions from the 1960’s were still of high quality.

This little dress was made to sell, simply-designed with a center back metal zipper, moderately priced and styled to the then-current fad for mandarin collars and mini-skirt hems. It’s free of embroidered design, but the jacquard fabric is glossy and woven with an Asian medallion motif. Just right for making an entrance to a casual mid-Sixties cocktail party.

I’m wrapping up the cocktail LBDs for the 1960’s decade with this cutie. Tomorrow I’ll begin showing some dressy coats that would be just right with most of them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S LBD FROM SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

Definitely a conservative, go-almost-anywhere style but with an upper-mid-level pedigree as it has a Saks Fifth Avenue label (take my word for it). The hemline still hovers below the knee, but we see a stand collar, which is becoming more popular on ’60’s dresses and tops. The sequin trim on the collar and skirt defines it as a semi-formal cocktail design. Though you wouldn’t be likely to turn many heads on your entrance to the party, that’s exactly the impression that many upper class women have wanted to make, especially in the Mid-West (and this dress likely came from Saks in Chicago).

Excellent tailoring, as would be expected, and perfectly classic in design. The aristocratic heritage is what makes this evidence collectible. Moving ahead into the mid-’60’s we’ll lighten up a little. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S UP-SCALE LBD – SO PRETTY!

“Daring” spaghetti straps, the ubiquitous ’50’s/’60’s grosgrain ribbon bow and a tiered skirt that harks back to the 1940’s plus a solidly early Sixties below-the-knee hemline. Youthful, attractive, classic and conservative at the same time. Looks like this designer was being experimental while styles were shifting. I’d say it was a success!

This is a very well-tailored semi-formal dinner/dance/cocktail frock, probably sold at a department store which carried upscale goods or a smaller women’s boutique. Crepe fabric which drapes beautifully, a well-fitting cut, elegant simplicity with the surprisingly unexpected skirt. A very “modern” design. A first step toward Mod, which wasn’t as avant garde or counter-culture as the styles which followed in the mid to late 1960’s. We’ll keep stepping along the path tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BACK TO PERFECTION – TRUE VINTAGE KENNEDY ERA SILK SHEATH LBD

Gorgeous 100% silk cocktail frock. Discovered in Canada, by a Canadian designer. Look at the ruching and draping from the waistline in this very unique sheath style. The cap sleeves and below-the-knee hemline plus the fitted shape place this beauty’s vintage from the late 1950’s to the very early 1960’s. Never will see another one like it.

Tomorrow we’ll be squarely in the 1960’s with a variety of cocktail dresses on the way as a new design era unfolds. Stay tuned. . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A PRETTY LITTLE LBD COCKTAIL DESIGN FROM THE 1960’S – 1970’S

In terms of it’s pedigree, this dress has nothing to brag about. In fact, it’s very cheaply made; But, I decided to include it here because of the bodice design. This sheer panel with small decorative embellishments is something that I’ve seen several times on 1940’s and 1950’s styles. It’s an attractive but conservative way of accenting the shoulders and mimicking a strapless effect without any of the architectural challenges (the dreaded wardrobe malfunction).

The prettiest and most interesting version I’ve seen was a 1950’s beige sheath with a asymmetrical bodice. The sheer part had some little flower motifs worked into the fabric at intervals but everything was a beige skin-tone. The wearer certainly didn’t look nude, but the effect was much more subtle and attractive. If I come across the photo in the archives, I will publish it. Back to finer examples of Sixties LBDs tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S KENNEDY ERA COCTAIL PARTY DRESS

Interesting tailoring on this dress. Much more fussy than a true LBD. The lace overlay fabric was commonly used in the early 1960’s but the pouchy drapes attached to the hips almost look like something from the late 1940’s and the pleated bodice looks like many from the early 1950’s. All of this confusion makes a straight-cut sheath style look entirely different and made this frock completely unique.

It seems to me that changes from one decade to the next and significant historical events have often caused interesting and, sometimes, odd shifts in fashion. The early ’60’s also swung back to the New Look nipped waistlines and poufy skirts for a little while. More 1960’s designs on the way – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SPARKLEY 1950’S EARLY 1960’S PARTY DRESS

Nobody who matters will take issue with the fact that this dress is not black. The mauve lurex thread on a black background is gorgeous. Enjoy your martini and party on.

Jacquard fabric with a glossy finish was very popular at this time for special occasion frocks. Nipped waists and full-ish skirts carried on, though the slinky sheath never goes out of style. Demure and more daring aspects of design often appear on the same dress, as seen in the neckline and closely fitted torso here, paired with a skirt that hides the shape of the legs. Fashion that sends two messages, especially for women, always makes social life more complicated but has usually been the direction of women’s clothing style. Maybe we’re starting to get away from that now?

At any rate, hemlines are changing again and the midi will soon be OUT. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Late 1970’s – 1980’s Prom Dress and Heels

Again, a bow at the waistline and sheer fabric over opaque. But, the flavor has changed – big, bold Eighties does Forties floral print and in-your-face colors. Also, the sequins and beads sprinkled on the bodice looks like Eighties and Nineties, rather than the mid-century style. The pumps are a Sixties throwback. This gown is much more showy than the tailored, sophisticated styles of the Fifties and early Sixties and we’re still about 10 years away from the glitzy power frocks of the Dynasty decade.

Still pretty and girly, though not quite as “sweet”, in spite of all the pink underneath. It’s so interesting to see how clues and evidence overlap from year to year. Stay tuned for the file containing mid-century day-wear suits, dresses and accessories as Winter moves toward Spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Mod-style Special Event Long Dress from the Early 1960’s

From just a year or two later, compared to the frock shown yesterday, look how different the style is! This dress would have been made in 1962 or 1963, when the blue plus green craze was all over the marketplace – in clothing and home fashions. It was a thrilling find because I know it’s history since I got it from the seamstress who made it. She regularly tailored dresses to wear to faculty events at a university.

Medium-weight synthetic fabric, with a brocade-look weave. It just says Spring, and the beginnings of Mod. Sleek and slim, rather than fussy or poufy. A new kind of feminine style. We’ll be in totally different territory again tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM