Category Archives: vintage jacket

A VERY DRESSY SEMI-FORMAL POST-WAR EARLY 1950’S COCKTAIL SKIRT SUIT

This gorgeous fine wool city suit was one of my most treasured finds. It is exceptionally-tailored and in perfect condition. Alas, it is a size too small for me (about a modern 2), but perfect for Stella. So, you can see it in all it’s glory. Early 1950’s women’s clothing was beautifully-designed and fitted with detailed tailoring embellishments. Take note of the rhinestone buckle at the left shoulder.

Not what you would normally think of wearing to a cocktail party, but for a high-end event it would have been perfect. Very professional, elegant – the Post-war era’s power suit. Understated perfection. What more can I say? Tomorrow, another “similar” garment from the same era – more gorgeous perfection. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEFORE ANIMAL RIGHTS ACTIVISM – FUR AND WOOL COATS AND CAPES FOR DRESSY DAYS AND EVENINGS

Seal, curly lamb, fine wool – even the more masculine overcoat and trench coat styles were worn by women. Remember Ingrid Bergman’s in Casablanca? Classics like this were considered to be very elegant back in the day. They still are, though our choice of materials is changing, thank goodness. Any of them would have been considered appropriate over dressy attire. On a warmer evening, this little velveteen jacket with 3/4 sleeves and a peplum waist would suit for any semi-formal or even formal occasion to keep bare arms and shoulders cozy.

Next, back to the ’30’s – ’40’s “cocktail” dresses rundown. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

UH – OH! CHANCE OF FROST OVERNIGHT. TIME FOR A TRUE VINTAGE WOOL JACKET.

Yes, it’s still September and early for wool but this post-war 1940’s – early 1950’s jacket is perfect for the transition. It’s fairly lightweight and the winter white color can take it through 3 seasons. Almost a blazer, but the fit makes me wonder if it once had a matching skirt. Who knows. I was thrilled to discover it. This beauty can stand alone.

Look at the wonderful tailoring details. A sculpted collar, cuffs and tabs at the hips that are accented with arty buttons (which are all still present!). Full lining in matching rayon(?) fabric. It may even have been custom-made. You just can’t beat the fabulous construction of most garments made during this era. It’s a tiny size that will fit well over a light blouse or even a tank. Easy to dress up or to wear more casually.

My best guess for what the weather is going to be like tomorrow, let alone next week, is up in the air (pun intended). I’ll keep on unpacking what I need, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FALL IS COMING! IT’S TIME TO PULL OUT MY ICONIC 1960’S SUEDE LEATHER CAR COAT

So many mid-century gals had a similar coat when John F. Kennedy was president. This one is a well-made daily-wear style that goes with almost anything. It has a rayon satin lining that doesn’t make it too warm in mild weather, but I have seen and own examples with pile liners which usually zip out. Quality mid-century clothing was ingenious, stylish and practical.

Although 3/4 sleeves might seem awkward on a coat, they were a BIG fashion feature at that time and look SO GREAT with gloves that are longer. It’s always worth collecting true vintage gloves that are almost elbow-length; not the kind that are worn with evening dresses, but beautiful, tailored gloves of vintage kidskin. Knitted or cloth gloves would also work with this jacket in a casual mood because it’s so versatile. I love it here with my 1980’s Western-style suede skirt.

Huge plastic buttons were also a common feature on coats from the years before and after 1960 and would often give major giveaways about the garment. In general, the quality of the buttons reflected the overall quality of the coat. Detailed, sculpted buttons were very interesting and showed that a coat was not a bargain item. Sometimes they even had inlaid pieces of different colors or faux gems like “pearls” or rhinestones. A dressy coat might have buttons like that even though the coat style was very tailored. In this case, you see tailored elegance on a mid-priced garment that would last for many years.

I love Fall and, since the weather is changing, I’ll have to trot out a lot of clothing that has been in storage – maybe even open some of the archives . .. . …. . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S LADIES COATS AND ACCESSORIES

Beautiful wool coats which called for lapel brooches. Umbrellas with handles made of wood, celluloid and other “new” plastics. As always, I love the pretty fabric patterns and bling alongside the tailored elegance of the coats and jackets.

You can see the wartime influence on the first coat with it’s simplicity and lack of detail while a nod to luxury has been made by the velvet collar. Military style influence is visible in the big padded shoulders and the shape of the fur hat. I can really picture Ingrid Bergman wearing a coat like the fitted one – similar to trenchcoat design a la the movie Casablanca. The pale blue version with big pink buttons is moving us toward the 1950’s.

More reasons why the 1940’s fashion decade is probably my favorite. However, the 1950’s are also a big competitor on my favorites list and we’ll travel into the early part of that decade tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RARE NEW FIND! 1940’S DRESSY VELVETEEN JACKET

Nothing wonky about this jacket. It just needs a good clean and steam. Plus, I wish my team of models were with me as it would look so much better on Stella, maybe over a dressy 1940’s frock as it was intended for. Use your imagination. Anyway, I love, love it! Anything from this fashion decade thrills me, but a piece like this is so difficult to find and such a wardrobe necessity. Gals in the 1940’s often wore a fur stole or jacket with their evening outfits but, since we don’t do that anymore unless it’s a true vintage piece, a formal alternative is so important.

Probably handmade, from cotton velveteen. No lining, but none needed – the reverse side of the velveteen is a very smooth weave. Great peplum waist, a little longer in the back, and a big button to close. 3/4 sleeves with scalloped vents. Love this detail, too.

I’m over the moon and, as I always say -“You just never know” what might turn up. I’ll post my second find, exciting in a different way, tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SPECIAL WARTIME AND POST-WAR STYLES FROM THE 1940’S

Classic designs made subtle changes over the decade which reflect the evolution of style and the social and historical events taking place at that time. Party dresses for special occasions have always been a “thing”. Skirt suits from Utility-style in the mid-’40’s to embellished designs were more like couture garments in the Post-war years. A matching hat was always essential.

High-school Prom tradition is about 100 years old now. The popularity of skirt suits for women began about the same time. Since about 2000, traditional styles in both these categories have shifted in major ways, so the focus on these types of garments in my investigations has gone from around 1920 through the 1990’s, with the spotlight on 1930’s – 1980’s. The Forties through the Sixties have been my favorite decades for classic structured suits, as they were more like two-piece dresses before and after and very trendy in design. Good luck finding a true vintage suit or Prom dress from the 1920’s or even the ’30’s but after 1940 the clues are still out there.

Although there were some very nice styles from the 1920’s and 1930’s, the prettiest suits and formal dresses, in my opinion, came from the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. Lots of attention to detail, flattering fit and high quality. In decades after that, frocks were not as interesting and suits were generally more boring, too. Tomorrow I’m going back to late 1930’s – 1940’s for dresses with one or two ’80’s WWII retro styles thrown in. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S TRENDS IN DRESSES, HOUSEDRESSES & ACCESSORIES – TO THE START OF MOD

Casual cotton and cotton blend housedresses and model’s coats became really popular as styles started to become less traditional. Some of these dresses would even be seen at the grocery store or for other casual errands in warm weather. The shirtwaist dress was still around, of course, but was starting to take a back seat for everyday. The culotte mini/play-dress was also a new take on the 1940’s/’50’s romper. Casual designs like those shown above were still very well-made, generally, and had cute and pretty prints and tailoring elements.

Dresses with little matching jackets became very popular for everyday wear when a step up the dressy scale was called for – an important appointment, special event or church. The shoes, purses and hats are examples of those which might have been worn with dresses like this. The blue & green example above was home-sewn in the color combo that defined popular design in 1963. The prints on the two blue dresses in center are a harbinger of the MOD trend that was just about to erupt.

Stay tuned for a trip to the mid-1960’s tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S DRESSES FOR EVERYDAY

Wasp waists, circle skirts and cap sleeves – 3 style features which are predominant on 1950’s frocks, though many other elements of design appear. The tiny waistline is probably the most frequently seen feature of a Fifties dress. As popular as the synthetic fabrics had become, 100% cotton material was queen of everyday dresses and especially for plaids and stripes which could be woven right into the cloth. Prints were still very evident, such as the blue and aqua shirtdress above, with a cute Paris, France motif (special to me because it belonged to a family member). A variation of the open-toe, low-heel sandal shown yesterday would have gone very well with these dresses, too. Colorful dresses called for fun and affordable costume jewelry, which abounded in the ’50’s. Made from pot metal, glass and plastic, every gal could afford a little bling with every outfit. Natural materials were sometimes used, too. Our mid-century gal who returned from Hawaii a few days ago, might have brought home a pair of souvenir earrings made from seeds and shells.

Decorative detailing was still a big deal, whether the dress was a day dress or something more special. Ric rac and embroidery were everywhere. The intricate cut-out design and lacing on the neckline above, though probably done by machine, is a very pretty touch on a flirty frock. Fabric-covered belts were the most common way of cinching a waistline.

Sticking with casual dresses, we’ll head into the early 1960’s tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE SPRING JACKETS & COAT 1940’S – 1980’S

Distinctive tailoring and fabric in ladies’ jackets helps identify their decade in fashion history. Wool jackets with interesting buttons and lots of tailored details were very popular from the late 1930’s into the 1950’s. Not all 1940’s jackets had big, military-style shoulders. The two 1940’s jackets in the first photo are good examples which were both parts of a skirt suit originally. They’d look great with a pair of tailored pants, too. Look at the buttons and pockets that draw attention. Tabs on the cuffs and waistline detail do the same. Both jackets have an easy, flattering fit.

In the 1950’s, jackets became more sporty and body-conscious in many cases. This fitted white leather jacket is a great example. Covered buttons, a wide collar, slash pockets and back vent really draw the eye. It’s sleek and streamlined. The fitting reflects that in the tapered sleeves and fitted waist. Extra room on top which accents she shoulders and bustline gives a bit of an athletic or “va-va-voom” figure enhancement. Love it!

The bright red all-weather textured polyester coat from the 1970’s has many mid-century style features. The stand-out collar design with extended lapels is a “1970’s does 1940’s” style which was very popular in the early Seventies. The fitted Princess cut also harks back to the 1940’s and 1950’s, up through the early 1960’s because it is very classic. Knee-length hemlines on coats reflected the hemlines on skirts and dresses, so were shorter during WWII and the mini-skirt era between the early ’60’s and early ’70’s.

The tan-color 1980’s jacket is also made of leather. It’s a casual style that is more international and eccentric but has a bomber jacket silhouette paired with a 1940’s peplum waist that goes with some types of skirts and pants. Lots of gathers on the shoulders and at the waist give it a roomy fit that lets you wear a sweater underneath if you want to.

Before heading into a chronology of true vintage Spring day dresses, we’ll take a Snowbird vacation tomorrow. Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM