Category Archives: true vintage

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’s DRESSES IN THE MAD, MOD WORLD

Flower-power mini-dresses, traffic light neon colors, military-styling, psychedelic prints! These trends all appeared during the middle years of the 1960’s. Cotton is out – all these dresses are made from some form of synthetic fabric. So different from the previous decades, even though some of the classic details still crop up and garments are still well-made. See the Peter Pan collar on dress #1? The contrasting edging on the yellow sheath? Nehru collar (both military and Asian) and metal hardware on the stop sign red dress? Swirly hallucinogenic op-art on a classic shirtdress style? Perfect reflections of social culture, which was morphing yearly between Peace & Love, End the Vietnam War, Sex, Drugs & Heavy Metal rock n’ roll. In spite of all that, look at the tailoring!!

Pretty lingerie slips were still called for with these fitted frocks but the longer lengths were no longer suitable. Knee-length, at the longest, and mini-length became available. Wonderful nylon that tolerates hot water and can be dyed even allowed some creative girl to do a tie-dye.

Tomorrow we’ll take a stroll in some late 1960’s dresses and visit Carnaby Street. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S TRENDS IN DRESSES, HOUSEDRESSES & ACCESSORIES – TO THE START OF MOD

Casual cotton and cotton blend housedresses and model’s coats became really popular as styles started to become less traditional. Some of these dresses would even be seen at the grocery store or for other casual errands in warm weather. The shirtwaist dress was still around, of course, but was starting to take a back seat for everyday. The culotte mini/play-dress was also a new take on the 1940’s/’50’s romper. Casual designs like those shown above were still very well-made, generally, and had cute and pretty prints and tailoring elements.

Dresses with little matching jackets became very popular for everyday wear when a step up the dressy scale was called for – an important appointment, special event or church. The shoes, purses and hats are examples of those which might have been worn with dresses like this. The blue & green example above was home-sewn in the color combo that defined popular design in 1963. The prints on the two blue dresses in center are a harbinger of the MOD trend that was just about to erupt.

Stay tuned for a trip to the mid-1960’s tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

EARLY 1960’S DAY DRESSES

The very early 1960’s, Kennedy era was a time for ladies’ dresses to begin a shift in style. We started off with wasp waists, shirtwaist dresses and full skirts . Cotton and cotton blend shirtwaist dresses were still the day dress uniform for most middle-income women. But, also popular at that time for slightly dressier styles was a slinky knit fabric that was probably a poly/acetate blend. I remember older relatives wearing some of these, which they had probably owned for years. Many of the slinky knit dresses had rhinestone buttons. Great-grandma styles. The first 4 photos above are examples of these two types.

After that, sheath styles and fun details like this floral embroidery above started to make an appearance. This pink dress may have been home-tailored. The crafty, homemade trend that had taken root during WWII was still very strong, even though families had more prosperity in the 1950’s.

My internet connection or the blog host software has limited the number of photos I can add to my posts, so I am focusing on narrower topics and timelines now. Part of the issue for me is that I have so many photos in my archives that I just can’t squeeze them all in. Possibly better for you, my readers and followers, to see these wonderful garments in more detail. I will be continuing with dresses from the 1960’s because there were so many changes during that decade and it can take several posts to cover them all. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

DETOUR! 1950’S DRESSIER FROCKS BEFORE WE MOVE TO THE SIXTIES

I just couldn’t head into the 1960’s without a display of some of the prettiest dressy frocks from the 1950’s and the fabulous nylon lingerie slips that might have been worn underneath. The first two pictured also have interesting remodeling stories.

First is a beautiful, heavy polished cotton dress from the early 1950’s or, perhaps, the late 1940’s. It is absolutely gorgeous and falls to tea length. Polished cotton was a favorite fabric during the mid-century, before 1965 or so. As often happens, this frock had lost it’s belt somewhere along the way so I took some fabric from the generous hem and covered a skinny one by hand.

The mocha dress with the interesting shoulder line was a more ambitious remodel but still done entirely by hand. This wonderful wiggle dress is made of rayon fabric which looks like silk shantung. It originally had an upper bodice made of sheer fabric with cap sleeves. Piping finished the sleeves and round neckline. This design feature was such a popular one in the late ’40’s and early ’50’s but, alas, the sheer fabric had several holes that didn’t have a mending or patching option that I thought would do justice to the style. So, I chose to remove the upper bodice and secure the cut edges underneath. The back zipper didn’t have to be changed because it ended where a keyhole opening used to be at the back. I am very happy with the result, though I hate to change original designs.

The RED party frock is a style that endured at least from the mid-1940’s until the early 1960’s. It’s a rayon fabric with midi hemline, 3/4 sleeves and a boat neckline – all of which I love. You can see how deep the hem is and, of course, the bodice and skirt are fully lined.

Finally, the red jacquard cheongsam-style sheath is a fashion that became quite popular in the Fifties and Sixties, probably a carry-over from WWII when Asian culture became better known in the West and the female spy, Mata Hari, became legend. It carries on the wiggle cut and cap sleeves which were common then. Overall, this was a decade of very flattering and well-made ladies’ garments.

We finish off with a photo of luxurious nylon slips from the 1950’s, with their fabulous fabric and pretty decoration in some of the luscious colors that were available. We WILL do 1960’s dresses tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S DRESSES FOR EVERYDAY

Wasp waists, circle skirts and cap sleeves – 3 style features which are predominant on 1950’s frocks, though many other elements of design appear. The tiny waistline is probably the most frequently seen feature of a Fifties dress. As popular as the synthetic fabrics had become, 100% cotton material was queen of everyday dresses and especially for plaids and stripes which could be woven right into the cloth. Prints were still very evident, such as the blue and aqua shirtdress above, with a cute Paris, France motif (special to me because it belonged to a family member). A variation of the open-toe, low-heel sandal shown yesterday would have gone very well with these dresses, too. Colorful dresses called for fun and affordable costume jewelry, which abounded in the ’50’s. Made from pot metal, glass and plastic, every gal could afford a little bling with every outfit. Natural materials were sometimes used, too. Our mid-century gal who returned from Hawaii a few days ago, might have brought home a pair of souvenir earrings made from seeds and shells.

Decorative detailing was still a big deal, whether the dress was a day dress or something more special. Ric rac and embroidery were everywhere. The intricate cut-out design and lacing on the neckline above, though probably done by machine, is a very pretty touch on a flirty frock. Fabric-covered belts were the most common way of cinching a waistline.

Sticking with casual dresses, we’ll head into the early 1960’s tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

6 PRETTY TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSES WITH ’80’S DOES ’40’S WEDGE-HEEL SANDALS

A knee-length synthetic (probably acetate blend) coral red frock from the early 1940’s has augmented shoulders, a straight cut and a fabric-covered belt with some glass beads to dress it up. In the post-war Forties, hemlines were able to come down again and skirts became fuller. The knee-length wartime styles were able to resume their previous midi-length luxury. Rayons and polyester synthetics continued their popularity because of their availability, lovely drape and acceptance of color dyes. During the early recovery from the war, some natural fabrics and detail items were still not fully stocked in dressmaking supplies.

The ever-popular shirtwaist style has never left the fashion scene but became more modern, with atomic prints, and more sophisticated design in the later ’40’s after women had stepped into more visible roles in society with their wartime efforts. When the majority of the trauma and restrictions were finally past, this tea-length floral frock is an example of a more relaxed, aristocratic style as the culture looked forward to the more prosperous 1950’s.

With day-dresses to slacks, I love wedgie sandals and these Eighties does Forties versions did not disappoint me. Their sleek leather sling-back style goes well with almost everything and the 2″ heel gives lift along with walkability. This design carried on into the 1950’s and would look great with the dresses I’ll post tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE DAY DRESSES THROUGH THE DECADES, HANDBAGS AND SHOES – 1930’s

Two of my favorite 1930’s dresses to wear and one when I feel like Bonnie of Bonnie and Clyde. The fabrics feel so wonderful on the body and the fit is killer because of the fabulous drape. An earlier find, I was thrilled to discover the blue dress because of it’s condition. The original buttons and belt are present and no damage to the trim at the neckline. Also, no stains! You can see that the body of the dress has faded a bit due to years of washing by the original owner (compare to the color of the belt, which would not have been put in the laundry), but I don’t mind. The floral-print yellow and green frock is near-perfect and is a bit more casual. Super easy-breezy. The crocheted dress with satiny rayon slip given to me by a family member who found it in an old antique wardrove is the real star. It still has the authentic celluloid plastic belt buckle. The longer hemline makes it probably the oldest of the group, from the very early ’30’s. I have to include a 1980’s or ’90’s dress that dipped into a retro 1930’s. The yellow rayon belted sheath is a fun fashion with loyalty to the Thirties style and lovely rayon fabric.

These are both mid-priced dresses, at most, but have held up over 70 years before finding their way into my closet. It’s possible they were home-sewn. I love the elbow-length sleeves and the way that the fabric causes the hemline to ripple and sway. Very flattering. Both do require a slip underneath because of the sheerness and, since they are warmer weather frocks, I like to wear a true vintage cotton slip with very little decoration so that it doesn’t show through and compete with the print. Slips of that sort are hard to find since most of the slips that have survived are made of nylon and full of decorative detail. Although some fabrics don’t seem to require a slip, wearing one often causes the dress to fit and move so much better. Your other foundation garments i.e. brassiere, underpants and even stockings will have a real effect on how your outfit looks so it’s an important consideration. I have silk tap pants and some silk slips from the pre-war and WWII era that are good examples of undergarments that work really well with dresses like these.

Mary Jane style shoes are seen in every decade since the 1920’s. Decorated flats became popular for women, too, especially when they began wearing slacks. The shoes shown above may be a little younger than the dresses and purses, but are still within a decade or so. Handbags woven from synthetic yarn were another way that the market for clothing and accessories coped with the economic downturn of the Depression and the looming rationing of wartime. Leather, silk, quality cotton and wool were less available and too expensive for many buyers. The big move forward in the development of synthetics changed clothing in big ways, many having to do with fit, comfort and convenience so, overall, the deprivation turned out to be a plus. Tomorrow we move into the 1940’s. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY SOUVENIR DRESSES FROM HAWAII

Wow! Our gal’s back home and guess where she went – Honolulu, Hawaii. Looks like she even stayed at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel!! No bargain budget for her, and we can see that in her choice of souvenirs. Two wonderful made-in-Hawaii frocks from the early 1960’s. Remember that blue and green trend from the early ’60’s that I’ve mentioned before? Also, look at the mad, Mod print on the long gown. Fab!

You can’t beat the tailoring on these beautiful dresses. Casual styles, but very elegant. Look at the lining and facings. Fabric piping around the neckline and sleeves of the long gown. Embroidered cloth labels. I’m sure they also have generous hem allowances, finished off professionally. Also, no straw beach hat for this girl – she opted for a cloth hat with unique style and obviously had a wonderful time.

Tomorrow we’ll start reviewing Spring day dresses from the 1930’s through the mid-century, along with some of the accessories that would have been added to their outfits. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LINGERIE ROBES & SLEEPWEAR FROM 1930’S TO MID-CENTURY

I’m definitely in the mood to look at some pretty Spring lingerie, although it won’t keep us as warm. The 1970’s RED velour robe by Vanity Fair is an exception, but I had to include it for St. Valentine’s Day.

A floral heavy cotton housecoat robe from the 1930’s with big sculpted buttons was a fabulous find! See how it compares when we jump to the 1950’s, 1960’s and 1970’s. Double-layer nylon peignoirs and gowns began to appear in the Forties and there were some beautiful ones in silk during the Thirties and Forties before WWII rationing disrupted all of that. Lots of great synthetic materials were developed during this time, however, and the 1950’s nylon used for sleepwear and slips is fabulous! Thick, glossy and still silky to the touch, it could be found into the 1960’s and very early 1970’s but since then has mostly been replaced by cheaper, poorer quality fabric that doesn’t feel or look the same and is definitely inferior.

Until then, we had this wonderful nylon that can be dyed in bright colors, lasts forever and feels like heaven on the body. Lingerie from this time also included beautiful tailoring and details like lace and embroidery which was high quality and didn’t come loose. Tiny pearlized plastic or fabric-covered buttons and satin ribbon were also common. That’s why these garments still look and feel so beautiful 50 – 70 years later!

This marvelous nylon was also used to make lingerie slips, of course, and women bought a gazillion of them while day dresses were still the standard outfit for daily wear. When we go back to looking at day dresses through the decades, I will be opening an archive of beautiful slips, too. First, I think our mid-century gal is getting back from her vacation tomorrow so we will see what she bought at the beach and start the dresses review afterward. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MEN’S AND LADIES’ SLEEPWEAR & ROBES FROM THE 1950’S & 1960’S

While our mid-century gal is off on her snowbird vacation (see posts from the last few days), Baby, it’s COLD outside here at home! Although Spring is just around the corner (yes, it really is), we still need to be snuggling into robes and pajamas at night. I love doing posts about my archives of true vintage lingerie because it’s always so interesting and pretty. So, let’s take a closer look at these files –

For the men, a swanky rayon bathrobe makes any guy an instant sophisticate. Abstract medallion print with satin trim. How aristocratic! As for the PJs, cotton print men’s pajamas from the 1940’s and 1950’s are so wonderful. Of course, they wear to cozy softness but the real star of the scene is the art prints that many of them displayed. This pair have stylized hand fans all over – an unusual motif for men’s PJs, but that’s what they are. Both pieces show the standard tailoring for men’s garments, though it’s fun for women to wear them, too.

For the ladies, true vintage sleepwear and robes are always so lovely. Even very plain ones seem to have pretty tailoring details. The rosy red robe pictured above is made from a plush fabric. Details include pretty buttons, satin piping on the collar and 3/4 length bell sleeves. The deadstock cotton PJs are plain but still have pretty lace trim and pearl buttons. I think the plaid fabric is quite nice, too. The thing I like most about these old-style pajamas is how the waistline is made. It does have some elastic around the back, but the front is plain and closes with a side button. It also has at least one hip pocket, which is surprisingly convenient.

Tomorrow, before our vacationer gets home, I’ll look at another true vintage sleepwear archive with more Spring-like styling. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM