Category Archives: bead-work

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1950’S – MID-1960’S DRESSES

Late Fifties saw slinky knit sheath dresses that carried over the new, easy-care synthetics from the 1940’s. The prints morphed slowly from geometric, atomic shapes back to cute animals, fruits and veggies. This fabric is amazingly comfortable and drapes beautifully but was economical. Common, moderately-priced frocks were made from it.

Just a few years later, lace overlay became the big thing. Dressy day-dresses were often made from it, as well as semi-formal and formal gowns. These were also generally made from synthetic or blended fabrics but probably required dry-cleaning. Better frocks often came from British Hong Kong, where the design and hand-made tailoring made them exceptionally elegant and of higher quality. These dresses were still within the reach of middle-income ladies but were more expensive. See the black dressy sheath with a beaded over-blouse above. The straight black high-neck sheath came from Saks Fifth Avenue.

Then, again from the Brits, came Mary Quant’s Tent Dress in 1964. Although the Mod style had started in the 1950’s, it’s appearance in clothing was totally revolutionary. It brought with it radically shorter hemlines and easy-to-wear, casual shapes. See the light blue, home-sewn version above.

Some styles retained their classic, conservative lines and stuck to neutral or basic tones while bright colors became ever more popular, even in formal garments. While political and social movements became radicalized and changed society, the Hippie, Boho and Prairie styles started to take over in the late 1960’s and carried over into the early 1970’s. Tomorrow we’ll look at some of the ways that popular fashion incorporated these trends into mainstream dressing. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LADIES’ DRESSY AND FORMAL – WEAR FROM THE EARLY 1950’S

From cocktail party to Prom to a wedding, these dresses and separates went to many swanky events. A sparkly bling necklace and earrings were a necessity, too. Stiletto pumps became the hugely big footwear trend for women.

Jacquard “brocade”, satin, lace, metallic thread, organza and netting, cashmere, beads and sequins and even fur trimming – all popular materials in garments for nights out and special events. The prosperity of the Fifties brought on a real break-out in middle-class spending and ostentation. Showy was good but, fortunately, so was elegance so we had some of the most beautiful gowns produced during this time. Female movie stars of this decade were some of the best-dressed women ever seen. The first dress pictured, with the fur-trimmed sleeves, is a gorgeous example of the New Look style. Fun and novelty were also present in many examples of the more casual clothing but the cheap-looking garishness of the 1990’s was not the thing.

I love these clothes and it’s fun to show them. All would have fascinating stories. The elegance of design showed up in dressy daywear, too, and I’ll be showing some of that tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSY DRESSES FROM AFTER THE WAR YEARS

Here’s another group of finds that were fabulous. Let’s look at the details on these frocks, which were over-the-top when wartime rationing was no more and fashion was ready for a break-out right before the New Look. Lots of glitz – rhinestone buttons, metallic thread, sequins, beads, lots of little buttons and velvet. Hemlines went down again. Rayon reigned – it had become the darling of fabrics.

There was certainly an element of weirdness to some of these designs. The last two black dresses were discovered in Montevideo, Uruguay and had been made by specialty dressmakers. Many of their wardrobe items in that city came from France, and I suspect that there is a lot of European influence in these styles.

The top two designs are squarely U.S. American and the tag on the dress with the big velvet bow indicates that it was made by a company that was producing affordable garments, probably during the early recovery from wartime. The navy blue dress was higher-end and looks so much like the costumes seen in late 1940’s film noir.

Tomorrow we’ll look at some examples of how 1940’s dress styles have persisted during the following decades. Stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

LATE 1930’S DAY AND DRESSIER FROCK and ACCESSORIES

Too many photos to do both decades together! I’ll spread them out over 2 or 3 days instead. Here are a couple of pretty 1930’s frocks and their accompaniments. First, one that our Depression Era gal might have worn to town. Perfect for shopping and a movie. It’s a lovely crocheted lace over-dress with a matching acetate satin slip underneath. Look at the celluloid belt buckle, also died to match.

The second dress is a rayon sheath with an over-blouse look and Art Deco beaded decoration. She might have worn it to cocktails, dinner and dancing later. Probably, the hemline would have been midi-length on her figure. An acetate slip underneath would have enhanced the fit and it has such unusual decoration on the bodice.

No matter where she was going, she might have carried a chatelaine rouge and powder compact and an antique needlepoint handbag. The clutch above also has a celluloid closure on the metal frame. The pot metal charm bracelet for daytime has European coins and Depression Era male figures dangling – a soldier, a laborer and a tycoon.

Pretty but practical shoes made for walking and dancing – and, of course, she can’t go anywhere without her 1930’s Zippo lighter. She’ll want to visit the smoking lounge during the movie matinee’.

Late Thirties – Forties tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’s FORMAL DRESSES, PLUS A DRESSY 1930’s CLUTCH PURSE

Beautiful, glossy fabrics – most of them synthetics – and lovely designs. I adore them all, but especially the first one. Let’s look at them one by one.

The first gown has a dark green velvet bodice, trimmed with the same pale green satin fabric that the skirt is made from. So flattering and luxurious. The bright red dress is a more conservative style, but still gorgeous. It’s made of an interesting fabric type which I’ve seen in other 1940’s dresses – it has a satin finish but with tiny black diamonds machine-embroidered all over. I suspect that this fabric, though lovely, was a more economical one.

The blue dress was tailor-made by hand. It is sewn from a bias-cut rayon which gives it that wonderful, drapey fit. The atomic/stellar cut-outs surrounded by seed beads were all done by handwork. I love the cut of the sleeves and the way the bustline and waistline are finished. That back tie belt gives it a really wasp-waist fit.

Finally, the black velvet two-piece dress is an entirely different design. Very proper and buttoned-up in velvet and crocheted lace, with rhinestone-center buttons.

Each of these gowns was a surprising and fabulous find. It’s rare to find 1940’s formal garments in the first place, and to find them in near-perfect condition is almost unheard of. The best bet is if they can be acquired from the original owner, or their estate. This is always a more informative clue when starting any investigation.

I’ve re-opened the 1940’s archives and am finding myself doing a deep dive there. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage 1940’s Bias – Cut Gown with Beading Decoration

What a wonderful find!! This gown was custom-made, possibly by a home-based seamstress, in this unusual style with 3/4 length sleeves. You can see the waist ties that would be fastened in back to nip the waistline. The bias cut glossy fabric, which gives a really slinky body-con fit is a hold-over from the 1930’s when it was very popular. I love the blue color which looks like a night-time sky and the peekaboo beading that resembles exploding stars. Very appropriate today, when the comet AiATLAS is closest to Earth.

This is another one-of-a-kind, never-to-be-seen-again frock. More to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Formal for Holiday Season Gala Nights

Right about now, usually after the U.S. Thanksgiving holiday, the build-up-to-Christmas galas and formal parties seem to begin and gather momentum. This is, to my mind, the beginning of a formalwear season in the northern countries that lasts through St. Valentine’s Day and picks up speed heading into Prom, with a bump of semi-formal events around Easter and ends, more or less, with bridal events in June. I guess this is the way that humanity has amused itself during the colder months when daily outdoor activities are not generally practical.

The above frock is a beautiful example of many I have seen by Alyce Designs. Most are highly embellished, like this one. Although they are more “modern true vintage” (1970’s – 1990’s), they do have excellent tailoring unlike many garments made since the 1960’s. I believe that the company may still be making dresses, but of course I am not interested now. However, this one is old enough and well enough done that it deserves a showing. I do love the beading on sheer fabric and the nod to 1920’s style.

So, we’ll be heading into a stream of transmissions which will include clues related to semi-formal and formal events. But, evidence from new investigations comes up at random times so stay tuned . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ELEGANT, TINY BEADED EVENING PURSE FIND! MID-CENTURY MAGIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Always such a pleasure to discover these little beauties. Made by a well-known Japanese maker from the mid-1900’s, these small handbags were almost always assembled and decorated by hand. This one is especially tiny, and flat. It has room only for a key, a small amount of money or a charge card, and maybe a small comb and/or lipstick. Just the bare essentials. Almost like some made in the 1920’s and 1930’s but I would place this one from the 1960’s.

Silk or rayon body, with mono-tone black bead decoration, a metal snap closure and an unusual fabric handle. On close examination there are a few beads missing but that will be no problem to fix.

I’ve found so many, but this one is unique! What’s next? Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S, MADE IN HONG KONG

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950'S - EARLY 1960'S, MADE IN HONG KONG

Here’s a beautiful decorated sweater meant, mostly, for evening wear.  It is fully lined in silk with black beads and spangles decorating front and back.  Many mid-century women had one of these – it was a classic standard.

Made in Hong Kong, the quality is a cut above many garments made elsewhere. This seems to have been the case for many decades.  It’s another one of those iconic garments that is a must-have for any vintage wardrobe and, maybe, more than one since the colors and decorative patterns were varied and unique.

Though high-quality tailoring was particularly true for vintage garments made several decades ago, I still take special note when I find modern clothing that has been made in Hong Kong.  The materials and tailoring are still almost always excellent in garments made there..

There is no wrap more elegant, excepting perhaps a wonderful vintage fur, than a beautifully-made hand-decorated fine wool cardigan thrown over your shoulders. It can be worn in many ways and will never let you down.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

THIS TIME I REALLY HIT THE JACKPOT! 1950’S – 1960’S CLUTCH PURSES – METALLIC, LEATHER AND BEADS

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Look at these beauties!  The convertible clutch style which lets you use the handle or not has always been so versatile and convenient.  Although some of these are very mid-quality, they all have some distinctive features that make them stand out as great true vintage finds.  Let’s start out from left to right . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

The white purse at far left is a high-quality construction from the Sixties and has that shiny box hardware enclosing it on 3 sides.  It is made of leather and has a shoulder strap that can be tucked inside. Very sleek and streamlined – a great look for summer.

The 1950’s beaded evening bag in front is in perfect condition, with a silk satin lining and a beautiful clasp and box chain handle, which can be hidden inside.  This type of handbag was always hand-made, usually in Hong Kong.  Even for an expert, can you imagine the care and time it took to attach all those beads so perfectly and securely?

The other three bags have a metallic finish and are made of synthetic materials or cloth – not in quite as good shape as the first two.  But, they are nicely made and all have pretty hardware clasps – always interesting to find.  The two in the center also have box or braided chain handles, rather than the simple chain that is most often seen.  These more complex types of chain are prettier and also seemed to break less easily.

As always, they all show that care was taken to preserve and protect them, so I can enjoy them 50 or 60 years later!  The throw-away quality that we seem to be satisfied with today can’t begin to compare, but is still way over-priced!! Such  a shame – but not for this Magicvintagespy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

 

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM