Category Archives: bead-work

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSY DRESSES FROM AFTER THE WAR YEARS

Here’s another group of finds that were fabulous. Let’s look at the details on these frocks, which were over-the-top when wartime rationing was no more and fashion was ready for a break-out right before the New Look. Lots of glitz – rhinestone buttons, metallic thread, sequins, beads, lots of little buttons and velvet. Hemlines went down again. Rayon reigned – it had become the darling of fabrics.

There was certainly an element of weirdness to some of these designs. The last two black dresses were discovered in Montevideo, Uruguay and had been made by specialty dressmakers. Many of their wardrobe items in that city came from France, and I suspect that there is a lot of European influence in these styles.

The top two designs are squarely U.S. American and the tag on the dress with the big velvet bow indicates that it was made by a company that was producing affordable garments, probably during the early recovery from wartime. The navy blue dress was higher-end and looks so much like the costumes seen in late 1940’s film noir.

Tomorrow we’ll look at some examples of how 1940’s dress styles have persisted during the following decades. Stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

LATE 1930’S DAY AND DRESSIER FROCK and ACCESSORIES

Too many photos to do both decades together! I’ll spread them out over 2 or 3 days instead. Here are a couple of pretty 1930’s frocks and their accompaniments. First, one that our Depression Era gal might have worn to town. Perfect for shopping and a movie. It’s a lovely crocheted lace over-dress with a matching acetate satin slip underneath. Look at the celluloid belt buckle, also died to match.

The second dress is a rayon sheath with an over-blouse look and Art Deco beaded decoration. She might have worn it to cocktails, dinner and dancing later. Probably, the hemline would have been midi-length on her figure. An acetate slip underneath would have enhanced the fit and it has such unusual decoration on the bodice.

No matter where she was going, she might have carried a chatelaine rouge and powder compact and an antique needlepoint handbag. The clutch above also has a celluloid closure on the metal frame. The pot metal charm bracelet for daytime has European coins and Depression Era male figures dangling – a soldier, a laborer and a tycoon.

Pretty but practical shoes made for walking and dancing – and, of course, she can’t go anywhere without her 1930’s Zippo lighter. She’ll want to visit the smoking lounge during the movie matinee’.

Late Thirties – Forties tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’s FORMAL DRESSES, PLUS A DRESSY 1930’s CLUTCH PURSE

Beautiful, glossy fabrics – most of them synthetics – and lovely designs. I adore them all, but especially the first one. Let’s look at them one by one.

The first gown has a dark green velvet bodice, trimmed with the same pale green satin fabric that the skirt is made from. So flattering and luxurious. The bright red dress is a more conservative style, but still gorgeous. It’s made of an interesting fabric type which I’ve seen in other 1940’s dresses – it has a satin finish but with tiny black diamonds machine-embroidered all over. I suspect that this fabric, though lovely, was a more economical one.

The blue dress was tailor-made by hand. It is sewn from a bias-cut rayon which gives it that wonderful, drapey fit. The atomic/stellar cut-outs surrounded by seed beads were all done by handwork. I love the cut of the sleeves and the way the bustline and waistline are finished. That back tie belt gives it a really wasp-waist fit.

Finally, the black velvet two-piece dress is an entirely different design. Very proper and buttoned-up in velvet and crocheted lace, with rhinestone-center buttons.

Each of these gowns was a surprising and fabulous find. It’s rare to find 1940’s formal garments in the first place, and to find them in near-perfect condition is almost unheard of. The best bet is if they can be acquired from the original owner, or their estate. This is always a more informative clue when starting any investigation.

I’ve re-opened the 1940’s archives and am finding myself doing a deep dive there. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage 1940’s Bias – Cut Gown with Beading Decoration

What a wonderful find!! This gown was custom-made, possibly by a home-based seamstress, in this unusual style with 3/4 length sleeves. You can see the waist ties that would be fastened in back to nip the waistline. The bias cut glossy fabric, which gives a really slinky body-con fit is a hold-over from the 1930’s when it was very popular. I love the blue color which looks like a night-time sky and the peekaboo beading that resembles exploding stars. Very appropriate today, when the comet AiATLAS is closest to Earth.

This is another one-of-a-kind, never-to-be-seen-again frock. More to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Formal for Holiday Season Gala Nights

Right about now, usually after the U.S. Thanksgiving holiday, the build-up-to-Christmas galas and formal parties seem to begin and gather momentum. This is, to my mind, the beginning of a formalwear season in the northern countries that lasts through St. Valentine’s Day and picks up speed heading into Prom, with a bump of semi-formal events around Easter and ends, more or less, with bridal events in June. I guess this is the way that humanity has amused itself during the colder months when daily outdoor activities are not generally practical.

The above frock is a beautiful example of many I have seen by Alyce Designs. Most are highly embellished, like this one. Although they are more “modern true vintage” (1970’s – 1990’s), they do have excellent tailoring unlike many garments made since the 1960’s. I believe that the company may still be making dresses, but of course I am not interested now. However, this one is old enough and well enough done that it deserves a showing. I do love the beading on sheer fabric and the nod to 1920’s style.

So, we’ll be heading into a stream of transmissions which will include clues related to semi-formal and formal events. But, evidence from new investigations comes up at random times so stay tuned . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ELEGANT, TINY BEADED EVENING PURSE FIND! MID-CENTURY MAGIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Always such a pleasure to discover these little beauties. Made by a well-known Japanese maker from the mid-1900’s, these small handbags were almost always assembled and decorated by hand. This one is especially tiny, and flat. It has room only for a key, a small amount of money or a charge card, and maybe a small comb and/or lipstick. Just the bare essentials. Almost like some made in the 1920’s and 1930’s but I would place this one from the 1960’s.

Silk or rayon body, with mono-tone black bead decoration, a metal snap closure and an unusual fabric handle. On close examination there are a few beads missing but that will be no problem to fix.

I’ve found so many, but this one is unique! What’s next? Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S, MADE IN HONG KONG

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950'S - EARLY 1960'S, MADE IN HONG KONG

Here’s a beautiful decorated sweater meant, mostly, for evening wear.  It is fully lined in silk with black beads and spangles decorating front and back.  Many mid-century women had one of these – it was a classic standard.

Made in Hong Kong, the quality is a cut above many garments made elsewhere. This seems to have been the case for many decades.  It’s another one of those iconic garments that is a must-have for any vintage wardrobe and, maybe, more than one since the colors and decorative patterns were varied and unique.

Though high-quality tailoring was particularly true for vintage garments made several decades ago, I still take special note when I find modern clothing that has been made in Hong Kong.  The materials and tailoring are still almost always excellent in garments made there..

There is no wrap more elegant, excepting perhaps a wonderful vintage fur, than a beautifully-made hand-decorated fine wool cardigan thrown over your shoulders. It can be worn in many ways and will never let you down.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

THIS TIME I REALLY HIT THE JACKPOT! 1950’S – 1960’S CLUTCH PURSES – METALLIC, LEATHER AND BEADS

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Look at these beauties!  The convertible clutch style which lets you use the handle or not has always been so versatile and convenient.  Although some of these are very mid-quality, they all have some distinctive features that make them stand out as great true vintage finds.  Let’s start out from left to right . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

The white purse at far left is a high-quality construction from the Sixties and has that shiny box hardware enclosing it on 3 sides.  It is made of leather and has a shoulder strap that can be tucked inside. Very sleek and streamlined – a great look for summer.

The 1950’s beaded evening bag in front is in perfect condition, with a silk satin lining and a beautiful clasp and box chain handle, which can be hidden inside.  This type of handbag was always hand-made, usually in Hong Kong.  Even for an expert, can you imagine the care and time it took to attach all those beads so perfectly and securely?

The other three bags have a metallic finish and are made of synthetic materials or cloth – not in quite as good shape as the first two.  But, they are nicely made and all have pretty hardware clasps – always interesting to find.  The two in the center also have box or braided chain handles, rather than the simple chain that is most often seen.  These more complex types of chain are prettier and also seemed to break less easily.

As always, they all show that care was taken to preserve and protect them, so I can enjoy them 50 or 60 years later!  The throw-away quality that we seem to be satisfied with today can’t begin to compare, but is still way over-priced!! Such  a shame – but not for this Magicvintagespy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

 

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MID-CENTURY TRUE VINTAGE SISTER HANDBAGS-MADE IN HONG KONG

Both these little ladies were made in Hong Kong, of similar basic design, but there is a world of difference between them.  Lady Right was made for the uptown market, while Lady Left was sold downtown.  Though they’re both clean and well-put-together, Lady Right grew up with all the best, while Lady Left’s beginnings were more humble.

It’s obvious “in person” that these bags were made for different markets. The styling in both is superior, but the materials and extra attention to detail show that Lady Right brought a higher price.  Just comparing these two pretties, found at the same time, was a fun chance to evaluate a number of “clues” about their backgrounds.

I don’t have a favorite.  Their stories are equally interesting to me  (maybe Lady Left’s is a little more so . . . . .).  Each one is perfect with the outfit that coordinates with it.  While Lady Left could be much more casual, she is no less elegant – maybe even more so, if you don’t look too closely. Lady Right could seem a little tasteless if she showed up everywhere dressed like that.

I see one for holiday festivities or a very gala occasion (maybe tonight?), while the other would be lovely with a pretty summer dress.  Both would be gorgeous for a bridal venue. It can all be so fascinating . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SURPRISE FIND – GORGEOUS WALBORG BEADED HANDBAG

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Couldn’t be more elegant and beautiful.  This is one of the best of the best from the 1940’s or 1950’s.  Made in Japan, all by hand – of course.  This style is more unusual than the typical rectangular shape and it may be a bit older than many.  Of course, I had to have it for my collection.

The craftsmanship and lovely design out-do anything similar that’s been made recently.  These bags are always quite heavy for their size, which testifies to the number of  glass beads used.  And the fact that they are all sewn by hand adds an extra level of quality.  That so many have lasted for all these decades without falling apart tells the story . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM