Tag Archives: fashion

HOW INTRIGUING. A POST-WAR 1940’S COCKTAIL DRESS FROM URUGUAY

This garment came to light during an investigation in that nation’s capitol, Montevideo. It is a very international city and was undoubtedly a hotbed of clandestine affairs during the wartime 1940’s. The cocktail dress pictured above had been commissioned by a woman who was a member of the social elite who routinely had their fashions custom-tailored or traded with shops that offered handmade garments and imported couture. The lack of a label and evident hand-stitching point to a private tailor. Though the crepe is a little rumpled from years of storage, this frock has been well-preserved and is a perfect example of that genre.

I am not sure whether the tailoring differences from what we expect in dresses made in North America are due to historical constraints or to the culture of that country. The extended shoulders, sheer insets, midi-length hem and ubiquitous black rayon fabric are commonly seen in designs of that post-war time but I was a little surprised by the straight, matronly cut. Either the New Look with its nipped waist had not yet landed in high fashion, or this frock was made for a more conservative, older woman.

The same will be seen in a similar dress from that same investigation which will be shown, probably tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A VERY DIFFERENT ACCESSORY FROM THE 1940’S – “EL RITA” PASTEL FEATHER HAT

What could be a better brand name for something this flamboyant? Next time I need a flamingo costume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OK, it IS pretty and definitely tells us that Spring has sprung. The El Rita label has apparently made hats (of various kinds) for many decades, but the elastic chin strap is always a good clue to the early mid-century or before.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN HISTORICAL CHARM BRACELET FROM THE 1920’S 1930’S 1940’s DEPRESSION – World War ERA

So, when I unpacked this I thought “Oh, a charm bracelet. Those started to become fashionable in the mid-century.” Well, when I looked at it closely it’s no regular charm bracelet. It tells the story of the New Deal and wartime. Those coins are from various European countries, and the United States. Germany, France, Italy and England are represented. Leaving out several players, these are the principal Enemy and western Allies of World Wars 1&2. The little male figures (only men, of course) represent people from different walks of life and levels of society. The Native American, the professor, the businessman, the teamster, the beggar, the Laborer and the Elite. This may represent the New Deal’s aim of leveling the economic playing field across all the population. A great idea. Good luck with that.

Fabulous clue, however. Only a certain type of woman at a certain time and from a certain type of place would wear such a bracelet. Or, perhaps, it was an individual creation worn as an unobtrusive bauble but carrying a coded message . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Uh, oh. I just have to show you this stash of clues . . . . . . . . . .

We’ll leave the Victoriana after today, I promise, but what an intriguing cache of “stuff” I just unpacked! This lot includes souvenirs (Philadelphia Mint 1832, Wiesbaden), charms for good attendance at school or church, a double-sided locket, a little basket carved out of a seed (for a child or in remembrance of a stroll with a sweetheart?), what remains of someone’s mourning pin, the decorative tops of a couple of matching hatpins, a pretty butterfly pin, a couple of clips for pocket or office(?), silver sewing thimbles, a doll’s scissors and, the most mysterious to me, the two items at top right in the first photograph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The ivory die, broken on one side, (which clearly is the one that Uncle Thaddeus used when he lost the poker match and subsequently murdered Ebenezer) – and, better yet, the little ivory Geisha girl charm with a hidden compartment. Perfect for carrying your daily dose of homeopathic globules, as prescribed by the doctor, OR a deadly poison. Can you imagine the value of discovering one of these at the scene of an investigation? Wardrobe accessories and pocket or purse contents are often much more than fashion statements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEFORE WE LEAVE THE VICTORIAN ERA, THE FUSSY DECOR WOULD NOT BE COMPLETE WITHOUT ORNATE LITTLE PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHS

Victorian photographs were not generally the most uplifting of images, though they can be wonderful clues. I have used them as reference from time to time and do like the two dandies in their high hats, who seem to have a bit of a sense of humor. All that heavy, heavy clothing – can you imagine?

We’re talking mid-1800’s to about 1900 here. Lots more to come, and all in the Twentieth Century. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A SMALL TROVE OF ANTIQUE JEWELRY PIECES FROM THE FAMILY ESTATE

Sorry not to be able to edit this photo. I think you can see what I’ll describe, from the top down, left to right. At top, a couple of gold-tone collar bars. Maybe men’s, but not sure. These could be from any time up to the 1920’s – not sure. At the left is a chain to hold a watch or other chatelaine such as the powder compact shown yesterday. A couple pairs of earrings – one clip-on and one screw-back. Below that is a pair of cufflinks. They are so delicate that I can’t tell which gender wore them. Below that are a couple of pendants – a cameo and one containing a small chunk of coral. Last is a small slide set with tiny pearl decoration. It is meant to wear on a neck chain – there are two holes in it for the chain to go through and it slides up and down.

Jewelry like this was commonly worn during the Victorian and Edwardian eras, late 1800’s to early 1900’s. Sorry I don’t have a camera that can take clear photos of small items like this and that WordPress doesn’t offer a better photo editing tool. However, I’m very grateful for the resources that I have because they’re great! Stay tuned for more true vintage jewelry and accessories. . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE POST-WAR SWEATER-DRESS? YES, APPARENTLY SO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Who would have thought? Until the mother of a friend gave me a 2-piece sweater-dress that she had made for herself in 1952, I never would have guessed it. That dress was a day-dress, whereas this one is dressy. It may even be from the 1940’s. It is hand-knitted from some kind of heavy synthetic yarn, which would make sense for that time period.

Previously, I would never have expected to see something like this before the 1960’s. It just goes to show that there is always more to learn and that clues often come from unexpected sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

GORGEOUS 1950’S SILK FROCK BY JEANNE D’ARC

Beautifully-tailored, this dress is a perfect example of the quality and exceptional tailoring that was commonly found on mid-century clothing. This was often true even on mid-priced items. Bargain buys were generally well-made, too. Aside from pretty details, excellent cut and fitting seen in clothing from this time, strap holders have always been a favorite find of mine. What could be more practical?

Something else to love is strategically-placed hooks & eyes or snaps. These enhance the fit and protect the garment by preventing gaps or strains on places that had to withstand extra pressure, like the tops of zippers, necklines and waists. Therefore, the clothing always looks better when worn and lasts longer. Today you can buy online a plastic clip that will hold some straps together in back to keep them from falling down your arm, but that does nothing to prevent them from showing in a wide neckline. Nothing is simpler or more elegant than tailoring details which are part of the design.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

OKAY, LET’S GO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT (AGAIN) FOR ANOTHER 1960’S WEDDING(?)

Now we’re Prairie – Victorian, or some combination of the 1800s. Empire waistlines were in style earlier in that century and high necklines with tight sleeves mostly in the 1890’s. The late 1960’s and early 1970’s fell in love with the 1800’s fashion. Think early Gunne Sax. This was especially true for white cotton lingerie undergarments, sleepwear and casual clothing but also spilled over into some day dresses and formals. In this case, a white structured gown was likely meant for a wedding or, at the least, some kind of formal occasion

This one is all 20th century fad fashion, with a zip up the back and polyester fabric. But, it was fun while the trend lasted. Not the best disguise, however, unless you’re in the theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TWO PRETTY GOWNS FROM THE KENNEDY ERA – AMERICA WAS DEEP INTO THE CAMELOT DREAM

These dresses are very similarly designed, from right around a couple of years either side of 1960. Although they both reflect the New Look changeover which had begun 10 years before, the most notable thing about the style on the left is the shoulder tails. These had been popular on dresses in the 1930’s and earlier, I believe, but made another appearance right around this time. That element changes this garment from a Prom dress into what I suspect was meant for a wedding. The sparkly sequined cummerbund cements the dressy deal.

On the right, our heroine is either a Bridesmaid, Matron of Honor or a bride herself for the second (or 3rd or 4th . . . . . . . . . . . . . .) time. This style has more of the 1940’s elements we’ve seen before, though I still believe that it is newer than that. The sleeves are a clue. However, it was custom-tailored so there is always the element of mystery involved. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM