1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LATE 1930’S DAY AND DRESSIER FROCK and ACCESSORIES

Too many photos to do both decades together! I’ll spread them out over 2 or 3 days instead. Here are a couple of pretty 1930’s frocks and their accompaniments. First, one that our Depression Era gal might have worn to town. Perfect for shopping and a movie. It’s a lovely crocheted lace over-dress with a matching acetate satin slip underneath. Look at the celluloid belt buckle, also died to match.

The second dress is a rayon sheath with an over-blouse look and Art Deco beaded decoration. She might have worn it to cocktails, dinner and dancing later. Probably, the hemline would have been midi-length on her figure. An acetate slip underneath would have enhanced the fit and it has such unusual decoration on the bodice.

No matter where she was going, she might have carried a chatelaine rouge and powder compact and an antique needlepoint handbag. The clutch above also has a celluloid closure on the metal frame. The pot metal charm bracelet for daytime has European coins and Depression Era male figures dangling – a soldier, a laborer and a tycoon.

Pretty but practical shoes made for walking and dancing – and, of course, she can’t go anywhere without her 1930’s Zippo lighter. She’ll want to visit the smoking lounge during the movie matinee’.

Late Thirties – Forties tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Mod-style Special Event Long Dress from the Early 1960’s

From just a year or two later, compared to the frock shown yesterday, look how different the style is! This dress would have been made in 1962 or 1963, when the blue plus green craze was all over the marketplace – in clothing and home fashions. It was a thrilling find because I know it’s history since I got it from the seamstress who made it. She regularly tailored dresses to wear to faculty events at a university.

Medium-weight synthetic fabric, with a brocade-look weave. It just says Spring, and the beginnings of Mod. Sleek and slim, rather than fussy or poufy. A new kind of feminine style. We’ll be in totally different territory again tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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Early 1960’s Pleats! A Semi-dressy Pleated Skirt on a Wasp Waist Party Dress

Pleats have been popular fashion for centuries (think Scotsmen’s kilts!) but they seem to have trendy moments once or twice a decade. The early 1960’s was one of those times. We’ve also got the repeatedly ever-popular shirtdress style and the lace overlay, which were also mega-popular in the Kennedy era. The unique feature of this frock is the contrasting color underneath the lace bodice and sheer fabric of the skirt. We’ve got a dark robin’s egg blue hue over a rosy lavender color that gives us a light magenta tint. You can see a bit of the under-skirt liner peeking out below the hemline. So unexpected! I’ve found only one other dress of that time that did this lace overlay color play, so it was a fad to a small extent.

Sheer over opaque again. That will never stop, but every few years produce a very different look, even if some features remain the same. Staying in the ’60’s but with very unique designs coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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True Vintage Kennedy Era late ’50’s – early ’60’s Dressy Spring Coat

Imagine wearing this gorgeous and iconic coat to a special party or event. The color is an emerald green, less bluish than in the photo. Perfect for St. Patrick’s Day celebrations or to cover your LBD at the next cocktail gathering.

Glossy fabric with a jacquard pattern. It’s probably a synthetic – maybe acetate. The coat is lined with a more bluish material – more turquoise. Open front, 3/4 length sleeves and this iconic wide collar with a decorative bow – all style features that define the very early 1960’s. Made by a recognizable label, this coat was part of a trend at the time – much like the fine suede coats with mink collars that are of a similar design. I own several and have shown them in the past.

Always fun to see clues repeat themselves in different garments made during the same time frame, and also from decade to decade as fashion trends repeat. More formal and dressy frocks to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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Pretty late 1950’s – early 1960’s Spring Formal Dress

We’re definitely ready for COLOR, and this is the time of year for that. Good thing that Winter and early Spring were big times for semi-formal events. While it’s still so cold, people were happy to attend parties and dances to add some excitement to their stay-at-home-as-much-as-possible days. The dress is still white, but there’s greenery peeking out of the snow. Even looks a little like St. Patrick’s Day to me, if Stella is planning ahead . . . . . . . . . .

The skirt is still poufy, but not as stiff and puffy as several years before. Sheer fabric over opaque is still the construction standard. Tailoring is still impeccable and the interior label identifies it as a design by Harry Keiser. There’s a little martini glass embroidered there, too, so this style might have been intended to double as a cocktail dress or perhaps they were the specialty of this company at the time.

No matter what the details, It’s a Party! and our gal is going to have fun in style. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Two True Vintage Sophisticated Early1960’s White Frocks – for a Modern Wedding?

These lovely dresses are so similar that they should be shown together. Gorgeous dresses with beautiful textured fabric, fitted sheath style with unique bodice design and impeccable tailoring. Both so flattering with body-skimming fit and defined waistlines. So non-traditional, but perfect as wedding costumes – don’t you think?

Unusual and wonderful finds!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Mid-Century Party Wedding Prom Dress

A bit of a confusing style – not sure where this frock landed back in the day. The little paper tag peeking out from the neckline in back tells us that it was an off-the-rack garment. Looks like a hybrid cocktail wedding dress. White, with glitzy beaded “cummerbund” effect around the front waist and a short formal length. The shoulder tails are a clue which points specifically to the late 1950’s – early 1960’s when these were having a come-back. Pretty on a wedding or party style but a bit awkward for dancing.

Whatever it was intended to be or ended up being, it’s gorgeous and sophisticated. I’m sure the lucky gal enjoyed it. More to come. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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True Vintage Silk Dress – The Holidays with Marilyn Monroe?

A little bit of Va-Va-Voom and a lot of emerald green luxury. This baby went to a lot of parties and maybe should have been part of my Christmas line-up. It’s probably a little newer than the 1950’s, but reminds me of the white dress Marilyn wore in her iconic photo standing over the subway grate. It’s a classic style, harking back to Grecian gowns and should be included in any vintage party dress run-down. Must have been gorgeous when it was new.

After this little digression, we’ll return to mid-century frocks that are ready to rock tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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True Vintage Early 1950’s Party Dress in Pure White

This could also have been a bridal costume. I’ll be showing more of these in the near future. Here’s the sheer overdress again. The sheer bodice around neckline and shoulders was a common feature of dressier frocks in the 1940’s and early ’50’s, in my sleuthing experience. White dressy dresses were often seen, too, during the months after the Holidays when minds are in the midst of icy winter but thinking about Spring.

The sheer fabric overdress with embroidered design shows up again and again across decades. This frock has an attached crinoline to give the iconic pouf skirt profile. What more can I say – perfection. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM