Category Archives: New Wave

TWO FRESH HANDBAG FINDS! NEW WAVE 1980’S BACK TO THE MID-CENTURY. COULDN’T BE MORE DIFFERENT.

I’m always delighted to find a New Wave early 1980’s piece in beautiful condition. This black silk satin evening bag with a gold-tone box chain handle was made in Italy and sold by Holt Renfrew, a luxury department store in Canada. It’s very sleek and slim – a great example of the genre. Wouldn’t you know, I have a black leather cinch belt with gold edging from 1980 – perfect match!

Another little coin purse was found at the same location. It’s vinyl from the 1950’s or, more likely, the early 1960’s. Durable and cute, but cheap and hardly elegant. Why did I bother to collect this? Well, if you carry true vintage handbags regularly, you know that although some of the best ones had little matching coin purses tucked inside and attached by a cord, the majority had no secure place to carry coins. That always had to come from a separate coin purse or a ladies’ wallet which had a coin purse inside (or her escort’s pocket). Wallets like that were rarely, if ever, made for women before the late 1950’s and early 1960’s, in my experience. I wonder if that had anything to do with women’s ability to manage their own money? But, I digress . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fortunately, that’s one thing we can more or less take for granted now and I don’t like hunting in the bottom of a handbag or in a pocket for change. Much less do I like to mend holes in the bottoms of pockets that have been abused that way. Therefore, handy purse accessories are always at the top of my list when I’m investigating. And sometimes, the most interesting clues can be found inside. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TWO MORE OUTSTANDING TRUE VINTAGE ACCESSORY FINDS! STAY TUNED, THEY’RE COMING

The investigation continues! I’ll get them posted as soon as weekend sleuthing is a wrap.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S DRESSES

As you probably noticed in my last post looking at the 1970’s, I am not very focused on the “modern” styles from that decade because they were not interesting, in my opinion, and generally not of high quality. The same goes for lots of the 1980’s clothing, but I do enjoy some of the New Wave styles and the revival (again!) of 1940’s designs. I don’t have a large archive of New Wave examples because it was a short movement and so trendy that lots of the garments were cheaply-made and didn’t last. However, the Forties revival was a bit more mainstream and produced some dresses, etc., of better quality. The examples above cover this whole spectrum.

The first two frocks are a revival of designs giving a nod to nautical or “sailor” styles. Sailor collars, especially, have shown up on women’s dresses and children’s clothing since the 1800’s and maybe before. Blue and white have been classic color combinations in Spring fashions, too. The first example above with the outsized collar also has 1940’s-style cut, waistline, 3/4 sleeves and midi hemline. It’s a less expensive dress, very trendy and not true navy blue in color. By contrast, the second dress is true to military style with it’s embossed metal buttons, true navy blue and white colors and prominent stripes. The rest of it’s style is more New Wave, with a midriff top and geometric cut. It’s much more elegant and well-made. We saw a LOT of mid-priced floral print midi skirts and shirtwaist dresses, which were very good flashbacks to 1940’s everyday styles. Finally, I do love this brown print rayon dress by a trendy mid-priced designer (forgot her name). It’s a late ’30’s – early ’40’s design with great fabric drape. I also love this halter style floral midi – Very mid – ’40’s!

I rarely cover anything from the high fashion or couture world since my investigations don’t typically take place where those clues are likely to be found, though exceptions to the rule always exist. Tomorrow I’m going back to my primary focus on dresses and accessories actually made before 1970. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S (?) NEW WAVE TIGER PRINT SHIRT JACKET BY ABS

TRUE VINTAGE (?) 1980'S (?) TIGER PRINT SHIRT JACKET BY ABS

NEW WAVE 1980’S SHIRT JACKET

This shirt/jacket is an unusual one for me to include in my collection – is it true vitage or not?  The A B S clothing company was started in 1982, so it might be 30 years old and animal prints were iconic at that time (again!).  If it was made in 1982 or 1983, I’d be willing to call it true vintage and I’ll explain why.

Animal prints have been a significant fashion trend at one time in the 1940’s, mid/late 1950’s, late 1960’s and again in the New Wave early 1980’s, as far as I know.  They show up at other times, too, but were a bigger deal in the fashion world at these specific times.

When I saw this item, I immediately thought of the early ’80’s and was also impressed with the quality of the garment.  I have since learned that the A B S company is known for making better-quality clothing than most of what we find now.  This shirt was also made in the U.S.A., which is unusual (if not unheard of) in modern clothing.

The deciding factors for me were the quality construction – 1. the fabric is heavy, with a nice hand (feel).  2. The pattern is really well-matched at the seams, so that it isn’t broken up across the garment (an important tell-tale sign of high quality).  3. The buttons are very nice black plastic faceted to look like jet beads.  4 .The shirt/jacket has french cuffs with button cuff-links (which, fortunately, were not missing!)  Overall, it is a garment of significantly better quality than most.  My size – excellent condition.

So, I have included it and described my thinking that justified buying it.  Sometimes you can’t be absolutely sure and some knowledge and skills to make smart decisions come in handy.  This is a time when price can be the final deciding factor, as well as how much you love it.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

1940’S SLEEVE TREATMENTS – WHAT’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN, AND AGAIN, AND AGAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1940’S POUFY SLEEVES – ALMOST EDWARDIAN
1980’S DOES 1940’S PIRATE SLEEVES AND TRUE VINTAGE FORTIES LADY

This post was inspired by the fabulous Theodora Brack and her post of a few weeks ago on the blog, Paris: People, Places and Bling.  Shirt sleeve styles are, again. doing some very interesting things with pleats, gathers and puffs.  Here are a few from my  own true vintage collection which show how these styles cycle through the decades.

Pictured here are 1930’s and 1940’s blouses excepting, in photos #1 and #3, the right-hand and left-hand examples are retro Forties, which were made in the early 1980’s. Cotton, silk, rayon and poly.  Kimono, pirate, Western-inspired and prissy designs all had their day in the 1940’s and have wound their way up and down runways every decade or two since then.  Of course, some decades were known for their beautiful craftsmanship, gorgeous fabrics and special tailoring details so these aspects will always be showcased in true vintage garments from those times.

Modern blouses which follow these style trends will not be nearly as beautiful or as well-made but, I love my finds.  Thanks for the opportunity to put them in the spotlight again.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

 

HERE’S MY LATEST RETRO 1940’S JUMPSUIT

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1980’s true-to-the-Forties retro New Wave styling.  Fun club and party-wear.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE NEW WAVE 1980’S RETRO 1940’S JUMPSUIT

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More fun!  I like some of the corduroy 1970’s jumpsuits, but the 1980’s version is much more over-the-top and, of course, has BIG shoulder pads in BRIGHT electric colors.  New Wave fashions have a real in-your-face quality that, I think, is more appealing than the 1990’s Dallas glitz was.  After that, everything REALLY went down the tubes . . . . . . . .

So, while we’re away from the best mid-century fashion, might as well take advantage of how much girls just wanna have fun.  Although the best of these jumpsuits are not a dime a dozen, when I find a good one I’ll grab it.  This one was made by a California company, to that adds to it’s pedigree . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – 1980’S NEW WAVE 1940’S DRESSY DRESS

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This pretty raspberry-colored midi frock has nice details.  Love the shoulder treatment that broadens without the heavy shoulder pads!  The coat-style button front is different, too, and the belt that buckles in the back with a point in front (or back, as you wish) makes it easy for me to date it almost exactly.

I’ll enjoy wearing this one with its slim lines and adjustable front hem opening.  Very versatile and, again, very vintage – New Wave did it pretty well.   More on the way. . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

MORE DRESSES! 4: 1980’S NEW WAVE RETRO POST-WAR LEOPARD BELTED CAP SLEEVE SHEATH

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Nothing says New Wave ’80’s like leopard print and shoulder pads!  Love this slinky beauty – what fun to wear!  This is one of my favorite styles.

If you can’t have the true 1940’s, it’s the next-best thing.  Stay tuned for the next best thing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE FAB TRUE VINTAGE SUNGLASSES – NEW WAVE FROM THE 1980’S

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Flygirls by Black Flys – love that Eighties vibe that zoomed back to the 1940’s again.  It seems like the early 1970’s does Forties thing was early Forties puffed shoulders, cute collars, jumpsuits, platform shoes and, maybe, little shoulder pads.  The early – mid 1980’s does Forties was WWII and post-war BIG shoulders, peplum waists, shirt-dresses, platform shoes, pencil skirts in longer lengths and some accessories like large paste and rhinestone brooches.

So, these New Wave glasses remind me of that time when sunglasses were first being worn by regular folks and considered fashionable.  Usually they were made from one of the first plastics that were being invented around the time of the two World Wars and becoming more and more popular.

Of course, the case is pure 1960’s – early Seventies flower-power retro that I found.  It’s great for these glasses because it is hard (very protective), coordinates color-wise and fits the glasses well.  It’s so important to protect your true vintage items from damage – they’re irreplaceable pieces of fashion history and such wonderful parts of a wardrobe!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM