Category Archives: Asian

1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’s DRESSES IN THE MAD, MOD WORLD

Flower-power mini-dresses, traffic light neon colors, military-styling, psychedelic prints! These trends all appeared during the middle years of the 1960’s. Cotton is out – all these dresses are made from some form of synthetic fabric. So different from the previous decades, even though some of the classic details still crop up and garments are still well-made. See the Peter Pan collar on dress #1? The contrasting edging on the yellow sheath? Nehru collar (both military and Asian) and metal hardware on the stop sign red dress? Swirly hallucinogenic op-art on a classic shirtdress style? Perfect reflections of social culture, which was morphing yearly between Peace & Love, End the Vietnam War, Sex, Drugs & Heavy Metal rock n’ roll. In spite of all that, look at the tailoring!!

Pretty lingerie slips were still called for with these fitted frocks but the longer lengths were no longer suitable. Knee-length, at the longest, and mini-length became available. Wonderful nylon that tolerates hot water and can be dyed even allowed some creative girl to do a tie-dye.

Tomorrow we’ll take a stroll in some late 1960’s dresses and visit Carnaby Street. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER UNUSUAL VINTAGE LOUNGE-WEAR KIMONO – TRADITIONAL EAST ASIAN

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What a beautiful handmade garment!  I can’t date it and have never discovered one like it before.  Because of the traditional style and motifs, it may be hard to say exactly how old it is.  Could be several decades old, or very modern.  I was attracted by the beautiful colors and the hand-tailoring.

The belt I have used is not original, but necessary for this robe.  As I understand it, obi belts are often made separately from the robe, to special order.

Although it seems very large and long, after you wrap it it fits little size 2 Stella.  What a puzzle – not sure who it would have been made for.  The motif of cranes suggest a man (?) but I’m certainly no expert on these!  But wait – more mysteries to come . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FOUND A HANDMADE, SILK KIMONO YESTERDAY!!!

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Beautiful floral colors and hand-stitching throughout.  Very unusual find, too.  It needs a little attention, but will be coming your way soon.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER FUN MID-CENTURY FIND

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This maxi dress from the ’60’s to ’70’s is a popular style of that time.  In this case, the Hostess Gown has elements of the Asian Cheongsam style dress that is classic and very flattering.  A Mandarin collar, frog closures, a shadow design of fans and flowers and walking slits in the hem hold true to traditional Asian dress design.

In this case, the dress is handmade and has a vintage Talon zipper.  Although it may have been made in some U.S. woman’s home rather than a Chinese tailor’s, the mid-century handiwork of that time adds to the value of a dress made then.  So, another garment a bit large for me, but worth collecting.  Things tend to get more exciting from here on, so –

Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HAND-TAILORED AND ELEGANT: MID-CENTURY SILK SHEATH DRESS FROM HONG KONG

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This dress is another keeper!  I wish Stella were here to model it for you – it’s so beautiful. So chic and elegant, of 100% silk with a floral jacquard design, with all the fine details that would be expected from an expert tailor.   This dress was made in the late 1950’s – early 1960’s by a tailoring firm especially for a higher-end shop in the Bahamas.

Excepting for the missing original belt and a few stitches in the hem which need to be repaired, it is in perfect condition.   A dress of this type would have been especially prized by it’s mid-century owner, and protected from damage.  That’s why it’s still possible, if you are lucky, blessed and skilled, to discover these frocks today.

I’m also fortunate to be of a size that was more or less average at that time, so I can wear many of my finds without alterations.  However, an expert cleaning service will have skilled seam-sters who can work wonders when necessary, so carry on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY’

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

THREE OF MY OLDEST TRUE VINTAGE HAWAIIAN GOWNS

THREE OF MY MOST VINTAGE HAWAIIAN GOWNS

From the 1960’s back to, maybe the 1920’s, these three are my oldest vintage examples of Hawaiian gowns.  From the farthest left, to right –

Psychedelic hues and patterns on the far left – not hard to see the late Sixties here.  The center dress is from the 1950’s and is fashioned in the traditional Hawaiian style, with a panel on the back that is almost like a train, without the dragging hem.

On the far right is a mystery dress with a metal side zipper. It has images in the print that are not your standard Hawaiian shirt variety and the fabric is very different –

instead of being the heavy cotton that I’d usually expect, it is a fluid material that I’d guess is rayon. If the label did not indicate that it was made in Hawaii, I’d say it had come from Japan.  The toggle closure at the neck is also something often seen on Chinese and Japanese garments. It’s also got a very 1930’s cut – close to the body.

Hmmm . . . . . . . . . this is REALLY Mata Hari undercover espionage stuff.  I wonder how she wound her way to the place where I discovered her . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

DISCOVERY! SUMMER WHITE MID-CENTURY HANDBAGS

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Beaded and beautiful – one even had a pretty hankie tucked inside!  (also found some old pennies)  Vintage 1950’s – 1960’s, made in Hong Kong (of course!), made in U.S.A., too.  All so clean and well-loved.

The beading is hand-done.  The 1930’s – style on the bottom right has the brand name stamped onto the satin lining.  The purse made in Hong Kong (bottom left) has, naturally, a silk lining.  The larger handbag on top has fun plastic beads crocheted into raffia and Lucite trim.  Big enough to hold all your daily needs.

I’m always so impressed by how well mid-century women cared for their clothing and accessories.  Yes, it was sometimes an issue of economy – if you can only afford to have one “good” dress, preserving it becomes very important.  However, way beyond that was a personal value placed on items of quality that were lovely to look at and wear and the wish to treat them with respect.  I try to fill my closets with garments and their complements that inspire the same sentiment.

So, no careless coffee spills, scattered crumbs or dogs in my lap with these . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WOW TIMES 3!!! GORGEOUS MID-CENTURY ASIAN JACKET BLOUSE

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What a beautiful find!  Because of the traditional styling I can’t date it exactly, but it’s old. Rayon satin with lovely floral embroidery.  Like the silk Cheongsam dress I found last week, this garment is so gorgeous and timeless – I’ll love wearing it for decades.

There’s another similar one of red silk hanging in my closet.  It looks wonderful with dressy black crepe pants,  a skirt or dress for cocktails or a special dinner party.

It’s off to the cleaners after I check the lining for any messages Mata Hari might have left behind . … . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TIMELESS CLASSIC SILK CHEONGSAM SHEATH, FULLY HAND-TAILORED

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Oh, I LOVE this!  Been looking for just the right one for a long time and here it is – in my favorite color (or one of them . . . . . . . . .).

This style dates from the 1920’s in Shanghai, China and the custom-tailoring is so classic and timeless that I can’t date this dress exactly.  It could be true vintage or made recently – but – one rarely sees the pure classic style done so well in recent years.  And, it is 100% embroidered silk, which is also a rarity.  This may not be the case with garments made for  Chinese women, but anything on sale for tourists or the larger market is usually of a lower quality, in my experience.

Anyway, I’m totally thrilled!  So perfect for a cocktail party.  I’ve had this frock in my sights for several years . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM