TRUE VINTAGE 1940’s FORMAL DRESSES, PLUS A DRESSY 1930’s CLUTCH PURSE

Beautiful, glossy fabrics – most of them synthetics – and lovely designs. I adore them all, but especially the first one. Let’s look at them one by one.

The first gown has a dark green velvet bodice, trimmed with the same pale green satin fabric that the skirt is made from. So flattering and luxurious. The bright red dress is a more conservative style, but still gorgeous. It’s made of an interesting fabric type which I’ve seen in other 1940’s dresses – it has a satin finish but with tiny black diamonds machine-embroidered all over. I suspect that this fabric, though lovely, was a more economical one.

The blue dress was tailor-made by hand. It is sewn from a bias-cut rayon which gives it that wonderful, drapey fit. The atomic/stellar cut-outs surrounded by seed beads were all done by handwork. I love the cut of the sleeves and the way the bustline and waistline are finished. That back tie belt gives it a really wasp-waist fit.

Finally, the black velvet two-piece dress is an entirely different design. Very proper and buttoned-up in velvet and crocheted lace, with rhinestone-center buttons.

Each of these gowns was a surprising and fabulous find. It’s rare to find 1940’s formal garments in the first place, and to find them in near-perfect condition is almost unheard of. The best bet is if they can be acquired from the original owner, or their estate. This is always a more informative clue when starting any investigation.

I’ve re-opened the 1940’s archives and am finding myself doing a deep dive there. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S DRESSES

As you probably noticed in my last post looking at the 1970’s, I am not very focused on the “modern” styles from that decade because they were not interesting, in my opinion, and generally not of high quality. The same goes for lots of the 1980’s clothing, but I do enjoy some of the New Wave styles and the revival (again!) of 1940’s designs. I don’t have a large archive of New Wave examples because it was a short movement and so trendy that lots of the garments were cheaply-made and didn’t last. However, the Forties revival was a bit more mainstream and produced some dresses, etc., of better quality. The examples above cover this whole spectrum.

The first two frocks are a revival of designs giving a nod to nautical or “sailor” styles. Sailor collars, especially, have shown up on women’s dresses and children’s clothing since the 1800’s and maybe before. Blue and white have been classic color combinations in Spring fashions, too. The first example above with the outsized collar also has 1940’s-style cut, waistline, 3/4 sleeves and midi hemline. It’s a less expensive dress, very trendy and not true navy blue in color. By contrast, the second dress is true to military style with it’s embossed metal buttons, true navy blue and white colors and prominent stripes. The rest of it’s style is more New Wave, with a midriff top and geometric cut. It’s much more elegant and well-made. We saw a LOT of mid-priced floral print midi skirts and shirtwaist dresses, which were very good flashbacks to 1940’s everyday styles. Finally, I do love this brown print rayon dress by a trendy mid-priced designer (forgot her name). It’s a late ’30’s – early ’40’s design with great fabric drape. I also love this halter style floral midi – Very mid – ’40’s!

I rarely cover anything from the high fashion or couture world since my investigations don’t typically take place where those clues are likely to be found, though exceptions to the rule always exist. Tomorrow I’m going back to my primary focus on dresses and accessories actually made before 1970. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE STYLES FROM THE SEVENTIES

The 1970’s was far from a stellar fashion decade, as far as I’m concerned, but it did include several signature trends. Seventies does Forties, Boho/Prairie, polyester knit pantsuits and dresses (including men’s leisure suits), long pointy collars and animal prints were the predominant ones. The garments shown above are all from the early part of the decade. Psychedelic prints still showed up. Flower power still had a moment. Disco glitz was queen in the late 1970’s. Virtually everything was made of polyester fabric.

Carly Simon wore a hat similar to the one above on her first album cover in 1971 or 2 and it became instantly trendy. 1940’s styles, especially the tailoring details and medium-size shoulder pads, became really popular. Look at the trims on the short sleeved blouses. They are very ’40’s-looking. See the high waist and full legs on the slacks – women’s pants of the 1940’s were mostly made this way. An exception was Western-wear slacks, which tended to be slimmer.

The most-worn styles included platform shoes and jumpsuits in a big way. Military personnel and working women made jumpsuit uniforms visible during wartime and they became part of trendy fashion. The example above is from the early 1970’s. I have found and enjoyed wearing all of these designs. There are many photos in the files, but I can’t display them all at once. Some 1940’s styles popped up again in the 1980’s and I’ll show a few tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1960’S FASHION TRENDS – MOD HEADS INTO THE 1970’S

Britain continued to lead the fashion trends in the late ’60’s and it seems to me that their influence strengthened during these years as the Carnaby Street styles showed up. Mod and ultra mini began to slow down with a strong Edwardian/Victorian/Hippie wave predominating. Psychedelic and paisley prints were super popular, even on higher-end classic styles. Long bell sleeves showed up a lot. Ruffled, high-collar blouses and men’s neckties for women were fun fads. Platform soles went out (for a while) in favor of mid-heel pumps with high vamps and rounded toes. LifeStride, a popular mid-priced U.S. brand got into the trend with the example shown above.

Knee-length, midi and full-length hemlines came on the scene again, especially on more conservative and higher-end dresses. Though some minis were still worn, the hippie-styles usually had ankle-length skirts. While Carnaby Street fashions passed by, the long hippie/Victorian looks drifted into the early 1970’s. If you have followed me, you might remember a few of my posts earlier this year covering vintage Prom dresses that showed early 1970’s Victorian/Prairie designs in that mix.

There was a lot more, however, to the early 1970’s fashion designs. We’ll start looking at the Seventies tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S TRENDS IN DRESSES, HOUSEDRESSES & ACCESSORIES – TO THE START OF MOD

Casual cotton and cotton blend housedresses and model’s coats became really popular as styles started to become less traditional. Some of these dresses would even be seen at the grocery store or for other casual errands in warm weather. The shirtwaist dress was still around, of course, but was starting to take a back seat for everyday. The culotte mini/play-dress was also a new take on the 1940’s/’50’s romper. Casual designs like those shown above were still very well-made, generally, and had cute and pretty prints and tailoring elements.

Dresses with little matching jackets became very popular for everyday wear when a step up the dressy scale was called for – an important appointment, special event or church. The shoes, purses and hats are examples of those which might have been worn with dresses like this. The blue & green example above was home-sewn in the color combo that defined popular design in 1963. The prints on the two blue dresses in center are a harbinger of the MOD trend that was just about to erupt.

Stay tuned for a trip to the mid-1960’s tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

EARLY 1960’S DAY DRESSES

The very early 1960’s, Kennedy era was a time for ladies’ dresses to begin a shift in style. We started off with wasp waists, shirtwaist dresses and full skirts . Cotton and cotton blend shirtwaist dresses were still the day dress uniform for most middle-income women. But, also popular at that time for slightly dressier styles was a slinky knit fabric that was probably a poly/acetate blend. I remember older relatives wearing some of these, which they had probably owned for years. Many of the slinky knit dresses had rhinestone buttons. Great-grandma styles. The first 4 photos above are examples of these two types.

After that, sheath styles and fun details like this floral embroidery above started to make an appearance. This pink dress may have been home-tailored. The crafty, homemade trend that had taken root during WWII was still very strong, even though families had more prosperity in the 1950’s.

My internet connection or the blog host software has limited the number of photos I can add to my posts, so I am focusing on narrower topics and timelines now. Part of the issue for me is that I have so many photos in my archives that I just can’t squeeze them all in. Possibly better for you, my readers and followers, to see these wonderful garments in more detail. I will be continuing with dresses from the 1960’s because there were so many changes during that decade and it can take several posts to cover them all. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

6 PRETTY TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSES WITH ’80’S DOES ’40’S WEDGE-HEEL SANDALS

A knee-length synthetic (probably acetate blend) coral red frock from the early 1940’s has augmented shoulders, a straight cut and a fabric-covered belt with some glass beads to dress it up. In the post-war Forties, hemlines were able to come down again and skirts became fuller. The knee-length wartime styles were able to resume their previous midi-length luxury. Rayons and polyester synthetics continued their popularity because of their availability, lovely drape and acceptance of color dyes. During the early recovery from the war, some natural fabrics and detail items were still not fully stocked in dressmaking supplies.

The ever-popular shirtwaist style has never left the fashion scene but became more modern, with atomic prints, and more sophisticated design in the later ’40’s after women had stepped into more visible roles in society with their wartime efforts. When the majority of the trauma and restrictions were finally past, this tea-length floral frock is an example of a more relaxed, aristocratic style as the culture looked forward to the more prosperous 1950’s.

With day-dresses to slacks, I love wedgie sandals and these Eighties does Forties versions did not disappoint me. Their sleek leather sling-back style goes well with almost everything and the 2″ heel gives lift along with walkability. This design carried on into the 1950’s and would look great with the dresses I’ll post tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE DAY DRESSES THROUGH THE DECADES, HANDBAGS AND SHOES – 1930’s

Two of my favorite 1930’s dresses to wear and one when I feel like Bonnie of Bonnie and Clyde. The fabrics feel so wonderful on the body and the fit is killer because of the fabulous drape. An earlier find, I was thrilled to discover the blue dress because of it’s condition. The original buttons and belt are present and no damage to the trim at the neckline. Also, no stains! You can see that the body of the dress has faded a bit due to years of washing by the original owner (compare to the color of the belt, which would not have been put in the laundry), but I don’t mind. The floral-print yellow and green frock is near-perfect and is a bit more casual. Super easy-breezy. The crocheted dress with satiny rayon slip given to me by a family member who found it in an old antique wardrove is the real star. It still has the authentic celluloid plastic belt buckle. The longer hemline makes it probably the oldest of the group, from the very early ’30’s. I have to include a 1980’s or ’90’s dress that dipped into a retro 1930’s. The yellow rayon belted sheath is a fun fashion with loyalty to the Thirties style and lovely rayon fabric.

These are both mid-priced dresses, at most, but have held up over 70 years before finding their way into my closet. It’s possible they were home-sewn. I love the elbow-length sleeves and the way that the fabric causes the hemline to ripple and sway. Very flattering. Both do require a slip underneath because of the sheerness and, since they are warmer weather frocks, I like to wear a true vintage cotton slip with very little decoration so that it doesn’t show through and compete with the print. Slips of that sort are hard to find since most of the slips that have survived are made of nylon and full of decorative detail. Although some fabrics don’t seem to require a slip, wearing one often causes the dress to fit and move so much better. Your other foundation garments i.e. brassiere, underpants and even stockings will have a real effect on how your outfit looks so it’s an important consideration. I have silk tap pants and some silk slips from the pre-war and WWII era that are good examples of undergarments that work really well with dresses like these.

Mary Jane style shoes are seen in every decade since the 1920’s. Decorated flats became popular for women, too, especially when they began wearing slacks. The shoes shown above may be a little younger than the dresses and purses, but are still within a decade or so. Handbags woven from synthetic yarn were another way that the market for clothing and accessories coped with the economic downturn of the Depression and the looming rationing of wartime. Leather, silk, quality cotton and wool were less available and too expensive for many buyers. The big move forward in the development of synthetics changed clothing in big ways, many having to do with fit, comfort and convenience so, overall, the deprivation turned out to be a plus. Tomorrow we move into the 1940’s. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY SOUVENIR DRESSES FROM HAWAII

Wow! Our gal’s back home and guess where she went – Honolulu, Hawaii. Looks like she even stayed at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel!! No bargain budget for her, and we can see that in her choice of souvenirs. Two wonderful made-in-Hawaii frocks from the early 1960’s. Remember that blue and green trend from the early ’60’s that I’ve mentioned before? Also, look at the mad, Mod print on the long gown. Fab!

You can’t beat the tailoring on these beautiful dresses. Casual styles, but very elegant. Look at the lining and facings. Fabric piping around the neckline and sleeves of the long gown. Embroidered cloth labels. I’m sure they also have generous hem allowances, finished off professionally. Also, no straw beach hat for this girl – she opted for a cloth hat with unique style and obviously had a wonderful time.

Tomorrow we’ll start reviewing Spring day dresses from the 1930’s through the mid-century, along with some of the accessories that would have been added to their outfits. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LINGERIE ROBES & SLEEPWEAR FROM 1930’S TO MID-CENTURY

I’m definitely in the mood to look at some pretty Spring lingerie, although it won’t keep us as warm. The 1970’s RED velour robe by Vanity Fair is an exception, but I had to include it for St. Valentine’s Day.

A floral heavy cotton housecoat robe from the 1930’s with big sculpted buttons was a fabulous find! See how it compares when we jump to the 1950’s, 1960’s and 1970’s. Double-layer nylon peignoirs and gowns began to appear in the Forties and there were some beautiful ones in silk during the Thirties and Forties before WWII rationing disrupted all of that. Lots of great synthetic materials were developed during this time, however, and the 1950’s nylon used for sleepwear and slips is fabulous! Thick, glossy and still silky to the touch, it could be found into the 1960’s and very early 1970’s but since then has mostly been replaced by cheaper, poorer quality fabric that doesn’t feel or look the same and is definitely inferior.

Until then, we had this wonderful nylon that can be dyed in bright colors, lasts forever and feels like heaven on the body. Lingerie from this time also included beautiful tailoring and details like lace and embroidery which was high quality and didn’t come loose. Tiny pearlized plastic or fabric-covered buttons and satin ribbon were also common. That’s why these garments still look and feel so beautiful 50 – 70 years later!

This marvelous nylon was also used to make lingerie slips, of course, and women bought a gazillion of them while day dresses were still the standard outfit for daily wear. When we go back to looking at day dresses through the decades, I will be opening an archive of beautiful slips, too. First, I think our mid-century gal is getting back from her vacation tomorrow so we will see what she bought at the beach and start the dresses review afterward. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM