Tag Archives: women’s

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S LEISURE DRESSES – ALTERNATIVE STYLE FINDS THE MAINSTREAM

In the early 1960’s home-based seamstresses began making at-home leisure dresses. Velveteen was a popular fabric for hostess dresses that could work for cocktails with friends. An early flower-power dress in a traditional style was a more timid effort (looks like a vintage tablecloth) and a Mod print gown stepped firmly into the mid-decade. Washable cotton and blends made these easy-care garments and fashionable alternative styles for women who hadn’t been ready for 1950’s Boho or early ’60’s minis.

Tomorrow we’ll look at dresses from this genre that appeared later in the Sixties. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1950’S – MID-1960’S DRESSES

Late Fifties saw slinky knit sheath dresses that carried over the new, easy-care synthetics from the 1940’s. The prints morphed slowly from geometric, atomic shapes back to cute animals, fruits and veggies. This fabric is amazingly comfortable and drapes beautifully but was economical. Common, moderately-priced frocks were made from it.

Just a few years later, lace overlay became the big thing. Dressy day-dresses were often made from it, as well as semi-formal and formal gowns. These were also generally made from synthetic or blended fabrics but probably required dry-cleaning. Better frocks often came from British Hong Kong, where the design and hand-made tailoring made them exceptionally elegant and of higher quality. These dresses were still within the reach of middle-income ladies but were more expensive. See the black dressy sheath with a beaded over-blouse above. The straight black high-neck sheath came from Saks Fifth Avenue.

Then, again from the Brits, came Mary Quant’s Tent Dress in 1964. Although the Mod style had started in the 1950’s, it’s appearance in clothing was totally revolutionary. It brought with it radically shorter hemlines and easy-to-wear, casual shapes. See the light blue, home-sewn version above.

Some styles retained their classic, conservative lines and stuck to neutral or basic tones while bright colors became ever more popular, even in formal garments. While political and social movements became radicalized and changed society, the Hippie, Boho and Prairie styles started to take over in the late 1960’s and carried over into the early 1970’s. Tomorrow we’ll look at some of the ways that popular fashion incorporated these trends into mainstream dressing. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE ASSORTMENT OF 1940’S TO 1950’S SEPARATES, LEISURE GARMENTS AND JEWELRY

Starting off with ladies’ uniforms for popular leisure and volunteer activities – women’s bowling and the Girl Scouts. Here are a team member’s uniform and a Scout leader’s. Many mid-century women took part in these activities during their spare time to enjoy and contribute to their communities.

Travel became a big part of 1950’s family life. What could be easier in order to take an “exotic” vacation than to go to Mexico or the new State of Hawaii? These were popular destinations and many women returned with a hand-painted skirt or traditional printed shirts like the ones above.

With the restoration of access to fine fabrics and sewing notions beautiful blouses were manufactured for retail again. Costume jewelry was abundant again. I love this accordion-style stretch bracelet design. So ingenious and convenient. One size fits all and no links or fasteners to break. This one’s perfect for celebrating U.S. 250th anniversary of independence from oppressive British rule. It was a time of hope and vision.

Despite surface appearances, today is the same. Let’s look forward that way. Tomorrow we’ll step into the 1960’s, also a decade of revolution and change. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1950’S DRESSY DAY-WEAR

Let’s start with this novel style by a famous French (undoubtedly Paris) designer. The knock-off pictured above was by Nelly Don, a well-known mid-century ladieswear label in the U.S. The belted sheath dress woven of substantial cotton or a blend has a wide detachable peplum which creates this avant garde silhouette. The French designer brought this luxury style out in 1952 and the mid-priced American version followed quickly.

A very pretty semi-sheer dress with a scarf neckline is unusual in an olive green and purple print which I love. Again, it’s belted and fitted as were most of the dresses of this time and follows a shirtdress style.

This green pencil skirt is made in a relatively briefly-used but popular fabric which consists of thin, rayon(?) ribbon that is coiled in a continuous design, appliqued onto another fabric base. Imagine it worn with a pretty, fitted blouse. I have a black skirt suit made in this fabric and a family member owned a short-sleeved dress in a gold color, back in the day.

The shirtwaist dress never lost it’s place and continued into the Fifties and beyond in fabrics which ranged from cotton and cotton blends to rayon and silk. The simplest daywear styles continued to be the housewife’s daily uniform. This one is a slightly upscaled version in a more complex print with embroidered trim and tucks.

This black and white dressed-up sundress would have been appropriate to go on a date, to the Ladies’ Club, Country Club or shopping in the city. It may have been custom-made, as women and professional tailors continued to use their skills this way though not as much out of necessity as during wartime. The Fifties were about being thrifty but also stylish and having more!

Shoe styles carried over from the 1940’s but with sleeker lines. Pumps were a bit more cutaway and more often had sling-backs. Soles and heels were slimmer. Peep toes continued, which I absolutely love. Hairstyles became smaller and neater again as did hats, which continued to be de rigueur for any well-dressed woman. Also, a pair of well-made gloves in a style which complemented your outfit and a short string of pearls with almost anything from casual to dressy outfits were considered to be necessities for elegant style. Handbags adopted many styles but here are a couple of semi-dressy designs that carry over the classic “tapestry” floral design and introduce the decorative metal frames and vinyl covering which began to be more popular.

Tomorrow we’ll stay in the same Forties to Fifties time-frame but focus on casual separates and trends. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S LADIES COATS AND ACCESSORIES

Beautiful wool coats which called for lapel brooches. Umbrellas with handles made of wood, celluloid and other “new” plastics. As always, I love the pretty fabric patterns and bling alongside the tailored elegance of the coats and jackets.

You can see the wartime influence on the first coat with it’s simplicity and lack of detail while a nod to luxury has been made by the velvet collar. Military style influence is visible in the big padded shoulders and the shape of the fur hat. I can really picture Ingrid Bergman wearing a coat like the fitted one – similar to trenchcoat design a la the movie Casablanca. The pale blue version with big pink buttons is moving us toward the 1950’s.

More reasons why the 1940’s fashion decade is probably my favorite. However, the 1950’s are also a big competitor on my favorites list and we’ll travel into the early part of that decade tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE WONDERFUL TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S SPRING DAY DRESSES AND ACCESSORIES

Some of my very favorite frocks. Wonderful rayon and blended synthetics. Pretty cotton. One sheer, the others opaque and drapey. Don’t you love these prints? Atomic, abstract and floral – big wartime and post-war favorites. Here, also, are some of the handbags, scarves and pumps that might have been worn with them.

Iconic styles, rationing-compliant and “modern” plastic alternatives to leather and wool. Silk and silky synthetic scarves were constant purse accessories. A few items carry over from the 1930’s – a few point toward popular styles as we go into the 1950’s. Since we’ve had such a long, cold winter, tomorrow I will show a few of the coats and outdoor accessories which might have accompanied 1940’s dresses outside the home. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1970’S – 1990’S DOES 1940’S. TRUE VINTAGE RETRO DRESSES AND JUMPSUITS.

The Seventies, Eighties and Nineties produced a lot of popular retail styles that imitated 1940’s designs. Some were very well done and others not so much, to be charitable. As I’ve said, it’s hard for me to call these decades true vintage but, technically, they are. The two purses echoing shapes and tapestry design popular in the Forties might have shown up in the 1960’s.

All of these could be fun and the reproduction details became best during the mid-1980’s but, unfortunately, modern polyester fabrics and production techniques lowered the quality a lot. No valid comparison, in my opinion, to true vintage from the 1940’s – even the home-sewn versions that were made from older clothing during rationing.

Of this group, the best-made is the black velveteen custom-tailored frock from the 1980’s or 1990’s. It was made by an expert seamstress and is worthy of being called a reproduction in the Post-war New Look style. The retail day-dresses are versatile and the prints are great – pretty faithful to authentic ones that I’ve come across. I always love the padded shoulders and cinched waistlines that are very flattering but were also a nod to the style of military uniforms. Jumpsuits were just for fun in the Seventies, but always are inconvenient. I suspect that the jumpsuits worn by women working in the war effort during the Forties had drop seats, which makes it a little bit better. I do have a pair of high-waisted slacks from the ’40’s that have an ingeniously-designed drop seat that looks quite good.

So, these clues were fun to find and seemed worthy of collection though I always prefer the real deal. Speaking of which, I just came across another archived file of true vintage 1940’s dresses which I will show tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – VINTAGE LADIES CLASSIC SHIRT WITH EXCEPTIONAL TAILORING

This blouse was worth collecting. I immediately recognized the fine cotton fabric and exceptional tailoring detail, worthy of mid-century ladies shirts though I suspect that this one was made in the 1980’s or ’90’s. The most interesting features are the French cuffs and the distinctively-shaped wing collar. Nicely fitted with front and back darts and a finished, straight hem. The seams are incredibly neat and overcast so carefully that they will stay strong for many years. They have also been reasonably well-matched. Little cufflinks are made from matching buttons but, of course, you could substitute any pair of cufflinks that you own. It’s also nice to see dyed-to-match buttons in a true vintage style as well as a covered-button placket construction, though these are not as unusual.

It’s always a thrill for me to find a garment made to these exacting standards. Finding one in any retail establishment, even lots of expensive ones, is rare. Just had to show you these recent finds but tomorrow we’ll return to the 1940’s and Post-WWII era. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE WWII LADIES’ BLOUSE AND TOP TRENDS

These blouses and sweater all came from the war years spanning the late 1930’s to the very early 1950’s. The first blouse is a women’s-wear version of the Western-wear trend. Perfect for square-dancing. Gingham and sculpted plastic buttons were popular. This example might have been home-sewn by a skilled seamstress.

Cashmere cardigan sweaters also were seen worn as blouses, sometimes with the buttons in back if it were a plain knit. This trend was especially popular among co-eds. A beautifully-decorated one like that above would have been front-facing, of course. Pringle of Scotland was a known brand and higher-end.

Before and after rationing, lace and other embellishments on tops and dresses were very popular. Tailored styles were also made, but lots of the designs before and after the war were quite fussy with many details.

Tomorrow I’ll show my newest discoveries. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’s Western-wear Fashion Trend, Inspired by the Movies

Cowboy movies, which actually began a decade or so before the 1940’s, gained popularity and caused a major fashion movement in the Forties and Fifties. This beautiful men’s shirt, which belonged to a family member, is one of the favorite pieces I’ve ever seen. The colors are vibrant and who doesn’t love red and turquoise together? Look at the detail! There are even small pockets tucked under the yoke piping in front. Some of these were custom-tailored.

Cowboy hats also became very popular. This one is a well-preserved woven straw but wool felt hats by Stetson, in particular, were the most often seen. Bolo ties, made of leather with silver slides and aiguillettes replaced fabric neckties in Western-wear dress-up.

I have a pair of 1940’s women’s high-waist wool slacks with wide fabric belt loops finished with pearlized snaps. What a rare find! Don’t have a picture of them handy, but take my word that some of the Western fad did cross over into women’s-wear. I’ve got a cowboy-style shirt with floral embroidery and a fringed leather jacket from this era. This mother-of-pearl brooch is an example and, of course, silver and turquoise jewelry made by Native Americans was the real deal. I also have many examples of that, some that were owned by family members, too.

Naturally, the popularity of Western-wear has not decreased over the decades. Although there is a niche market for the very authentic and work-oriented designs, the style shows up in retail fashion all the time. A very pronounced trend really hit in the early 1950’s – that was Southwestern-style cotton dresses, most of which were 2-piece, and heavily decorated with colorful ric-rac and ribbon. Some Native American women wore these and they were heavily marketed for tourists in the southwestern states. 1940’s versions had 3/4 length skinny sleeves with metal zippers to the elbow. Later, short-sleeved versions and even cap-sleeve style dresses showed up in the genre. I’ve shown many of these in past blog posts. Add to that soft leather ankle-length boots and beaded moccasins. So glad that my family alive during the ’30’s – ’50’s enjoyed traveling to the the Southwest and did so many times!

Very fun, collectable and wearable. Tomorrow I’ll be showing women’s blouses & tops from this era. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM