Category Archives: Great Britain

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1950’S – MID-1960’S DRESSES

Late Fifties saw slinky knit sheath dresses that carried over the new, easy-care synthetics from the 1940’s. The prints morphed slowly from geometric, atomic shapes back to cute animals, fruits and veggies. This fabric is amazingly comfortable and drapes beautifully but was economical. Common, moderately-priced frocks were made from it.

Just a few years later, lace overlay became the big thing. Dressy day-dresses were often made from it, as well as semi-formal and formal gowns. These were also generally made from synthetic or blended fabrics but probably required dry-cleaning. Better frocks often came from British Hong Kong, where the design and hand-made tailoring made them exceptionally elegant and of higher quality. These dresses were still within the reach of middle-income ladies but were more expensive. See the black dressy sheath with a beaded over-blouse above. The straight black high-neck sheath came from Saks Fifth Avenue.

Then, again from the Brits, came Mary Quant’s Tent Dress in 1964. Although the Mod style had started in the 1950’s, it’s appearance in clothing was totally revolutionary. It brought with it radically shorter hemlines and easy-to-wear, casual shapes. See the light blue, home-sewn version above.

Some styles retained their classic, conservative lines and stuck to neutral or basic tones while bright colors became ever more popular, even in formal garments. While political and social movements became radicalized and changed society, the Hippie, Boho and Prairie styles started to take over in the late 1960’s and carried over into the early 1970’s. Tomorrow we’ll look at some of the ways that popular fashion incorporated these trends into mainstream dressing. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RARE TRUE VINTAGE PRE-WWII AND WARTIME LADIES’ BLOUSES

Here are two of my oldest women’s blouses and two of the most interesting. What more can I say about the blue one? Not sure if it was home-tailored by a creative and fashion-forward gal, but I think so. Perfectly unique and attention-grabbing. What fun! Love it!!

The second blouse is from about the same time frame, but much more classic. You can see from the label that it was commercially-made and the Sanforized cotton designation puts it squarely after 1930. The Sailor collar styling was really popular for children beginning in the 1800’s, or before, but became a “thing” in women’s fashion especially in the years surrounding major wars, as did other types of military-inspired styling. It’s a classic sportswear item from the mid-century and could have been worn with a skirt, too, when women rarely wore pants or shorts.

The unusual thing about it is the tartan-weave trim. I can’t decide what may have inspired that but this blouse may have been sold in Great Britain or, possibly, was a homegrown Japanese take on U.S. and U.K. style, made to be worn locally in Japan. Some of that kind of thing was happening in Japan even decades before WWII. See how these investigative mysteries become more complex the deeper you go? I’d planned on showing more blouses today, but these two easily fill the space. I’ll continue with more tomorrow.

In the meantime, this is a NEWS FLASH! Yesterday I was on a new investigation and discovered true vintage and exceptionally-made retro garments. Both need a touch of hand-repair, so today will be a sewing day but I will post them soon. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

OOPSIE DAISY, BACK IN THE 1940’S WITH A BLACK CREPE COCKTAIL FROCK

For cocktails and/or dinner, a dressy but elegantly designed garment. Either pre- or post-WWII (probably Post-) a simple rayon crepe sheath with a midi hemline. Notice the beautiful drape of this fabric. Modest but semi-flashy rhinestone decoration and an eye-catching deep keyhole neckline, saying “YES! The war is over and we can party in beautiful dresses again!”

This one came from Australia so may even have been made in Britain, as much of their clothing was before the 1970’s or so. The arrival of fast fashion put an end to many quality brands and their exports as well as iconic department stores and ladies’ clothing shops which used to sell them. Today we can have boatloads of cute crappy stuff instead of a selection of well-made and lovely garments and accessories. Progress? Ha! Don’t believe it. I’m old enough to remember my grandmother’s good stuff and trips to the city with my mom for Christmas shopping. Stay tuned for more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1940’S – ’50’S SEMI-FORMAL FROCK WHICH COULD ALSO HAVE BEEN FOR A BRIDE

Such an interesting frock. Midi length on Stella, but she’s tall so it could have been tea or floor length on a woman of short stature. I couldn’t decide whether this dress was tailor-made or purchased at retail, but I could find no labels. I suspect that it was custom-made for a cool-weather wedding and the style really makes me think of some Wartime or Post-war bridal dresses I’ve discovered. Could also have been designed for some other special event . . . . .

Pretty mid-weight textured but glossy fabric which may be synthetic or a blend. Unusual long sleeves; but the best thing about this style is the collar. Each layer is carefully supported around the edge with wire so that it can be shaped by hand. I’ve very rarely seen this and it helped me to date the garment. It came from Australia so I may notice a British influence(?).

More semi-formal and long dresses coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE HIGH-HEEL STILETTO PUMPS FROM THE UK: A CLASSIC WARDROBE STAPLE 1940’S – 1950’S

TRUE VINTAGE HIGH-HEEL STILETTO PUMPS FROM THE UK: A CLASSIC WARDROBE STAPLE

According to moi, one can never own too many pairs of beautiful pumps.  They can be worn with almost anything, are easy to walk and dance in and are tremendously flattering to most women.  Some lucky girls look just as good in anything, wearing flats, but most legs and overall stature are improved by the height and lift provided by a heel.

This pair are sturdy, standard issue, with no particular brand name (I’m not altogether familiar with branding in the UK).  The important thing is the cut and the materials, which are both exceptional.  Though it’s hard to see in the photo, there is a black leather detail on the outside vamp.  Love it!

I’ll have these for decades. The mid-high heel is very versatile and the neutral brown is good any time of year.  Looks great with white and beige in the summer.  I found them in Canada, where British goods are more common, but I find items made all over the world in places far from their origin. That is half the fun and excitement of the hunt. As always, you just never know . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ORIGINAL 1944 WEDDING GOWN, MODELED BY THE BRIDE

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I regret that WordPress or Microsoft did not correct the orientation of this photo, but we are grateful for what they do –

Here is the lovely bride in her gown (and high heels).  In 1944 it was a rare blessing to be able to find a wedding dress to purchase since wartime rationing and restrictions were so stringent – especially in Britain, where the wedding took place.

Look at that train!  In satin (probably rayon), with puffed sleeves (no pads) and points at the wrists (love those!).  What a beautiful, figure-hugging fit this fabric provides.  I was able to see the original photographs of her in it, with a LONG veil, borrowed from an in-law but no flower bouquet because they couldn’t be bought then.  Her attendants carried lilacs from a neighbor’s garden and she carried a prayer book (like Grace Kelly 11 years later).  The groom was also extremely handsome in his army uniform.

What a treat!  Can’t go into the story of her betrothal and marriage, but it is fascinating and she is writing a memoir.  At 94, she enjoys a good party and has worn the dress on occasion, just for fun.  May we all be so blessed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

SPECIAL-PURPOSE LINGERIE SLIP – TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S – MADE IN BRITAIN

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhat a surprise to find such an interesting, and USEFUL, slip to add to my collection!  Never seen one like this before, but I’ve certainly been in need of one.  It was made to wear with dresses like the one I showed yesterday – sheer all over.  I just happen to have a black one from the Fifties that needs an undergarment just like this one.

This slip (in my size, by the way . . .) is made almost like a dress.  It has a back zipper, a kick pleat in the skirt, and an opaque woven rayon skirt.  But, it’s undoubtedly a lingerie item.

The bodice is of sheer lace, fitted and with adjustable straps as you would expect with any slip.  Several features tell me that it is a 1950’s garment – not a modern copy-cat.

For the dress shown yesterday, in beige with a gold design, you would of course want a different color slip with no pattern – but the same features of fit and coverage would be just right. These discoveries are so much fun!  This time I can really call myself an “undercover agent” . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S AUSTRALIAN LINGERIE BED JACKETS – SO FRILLY & FEMININE

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt seems that the Australian women really loved these beautiful lingerie items.  I’ve found many in North America, but not as often as when I traveled there.  These are some of the prettiest ones I’ve seen, of those made after the 1940’s.  Nothing can beat the silk ones from before 1950!

Aside from the size differences between our two continents, there are some slight design features that are different, too. The Aussie versions seem to always be of two layers, or lined!

Perhaps this is because they have been imported from England (or the designs have), where cozier items would be more popular due to the dampness there.  It’s a bit of a mystery, and part of what makes these investigations so fun and so interesting . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

A VERY COOL GEOMETRIC PRINT TRUE VINTAGE SHIRT FROM THE LATE SIXTIES – VERY EARLY SEVENTIES

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnother “new” Australian discovery!  Although they’ve been making lots of look-a-like retro fakes for a while now, this one is undeniably true vintage, right down to its label.

I just LOVE this print.  Again, not my own best colors but I can’t help enjoying it so much anyway.  Even the true vintage labels are delights in themselves – often so artistic and interesting.  Sometimes they’re funny!

In your standard poly/synthetic blend fabric of that day, it’ll be easy-care as long as treated gently. . . .

MORGANA MARTIN,THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER TRUE VINTAGE FIND – FROM THE LAND OF OZ. MID-CENTURY LINGERIE BED JACKET

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA     I have collected a number of these, from ’30’s to ’60’s but I’ve NEVER seen one made like this!  The outer shell is of nylon and looks like what I’m used to seeing, with common decoration of embroidery and lace at the bodice – familiar pearlized buttons at the neck – but THE WHOLE THING IS LINED IN PINK FLANNELETTE!  How warm and cozy is that.

Makes me wonder if there’s a Great Britain connection here – they’re always chilly there and looking for ways to warm up.  Our filmy lingerie of North America doesn’t quite do it in the damp air over there.  This bed jacket could easily have been imported by someone who moved here, or by a British retailer in Australia.

It’s been so much fun to discover the differences between the vintage garments that were sold here in Australia and those at home.  And, I’m only a third of the way through this investigation . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM