Category Archives: Post-war

BEAUTIFUL RAYON DRESSY DAY-DRESS FROM THE POST-WAR 1940’S

Taking a short break from the LBDs and going for a little color. This beautiful navy blue fitted rayon dress is a perfect example of the late 1940’s return to more luxurious day wear after the restrictions of rationing were ended. The label is Loma Leads, from a dress company that was organized in the late 1920’s and operated in New York and Paris. It had several departments and was around in one form or another at least into the early 1960’s. A very uptown classic ladies dress from the time when there was more fabric available again, so hemlines came back down and extra tailoring details like the peplum and bodice tucks were again possible. Women had been SO waiting for this! The exuberance of big rhinestone buttons on a day dress speaks to the attitude of a return to extravagance in fashion. The big skirts of Christian Dior’s New Look at this time is another example.

This style, however, is very buttoned-up and, to my mind, underlines the haughty, elegant and “rich” look intended here. After all the restrictions and deprivations of the “make do and mend” wartime years, luxury and affluence were the beckoning horizon for the United States and Canada while Europe was more intent on surviving and rebuilding after all the extensive damage to their infrastructure and land. But, Paris had always led the world of couture and design so fashion bounced back there, too, as Dior and other designers met the challenges and optimism of the new era and resumed their lead.

It is so fascinating to untangle the ways that fashion trends dovetail with historical events. The clues are everywhere and a good sleuth always looks for them. A completely different example from this time tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM . . . . . .

1940’S WARTIME – EARLY POST-WAR ERA DRESSY FROCK

This pretty dress is made of rayon material with a BIG velvet bow and inverted front pleat for added interest. I love the scalloped overlay and the shaping on the cuffs of the short sleeves, which is SO Forties! This dress is labeled as having been made by a company or maker that was nationalized during the years surrounding and following WW2 when many, if not most, fabrics and notions available to garment-makers before the war and the Depression were unavailable to manufacturers and home-tailors because of rationing. Women still wanted pretty fashions and our government helped to make that possible and affordable.

Despite having no lining or buttons, there are very nice tailoring details. It is, unusually for that time, quite a large size but is so well-cut that belting it on my size 6 mannequin (thank you, Madge!) still looks amazing. That is an advantage of any well-made garment and especially in the case of most true vintage clothing. Stay tuned for more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE ’50’S – EARLY ’60’S COCKTAIL BLOUSE FROM DOWN UNDER

What a wonderful, unique and chic mid-century piece! Discovered during an investigation in Australia, this pretty top made in Britain (or by a British company) is made from semi-sheer fabric that has a woven-in contrasting pattern. It buttons up the back and has the distinctive feature of 3/4 length sleeves with fur cuffs. Great fit and gorgeous over a black skirt or dressy pants. Casual, but elegant.

Women’s semi-formal clothes were especially fabulous between the 1920’s and 1960’s. Although many dresses, skirts and blouses had lovely decoration in the years before, styles were too buttoned-up for my taste. After the 1960’s quality, creativity and elegance really seemed to take a dive. Give me styles from the Prohibition speakeasys, film noir and revolutionary Sixties any day. The Seventies had too much polyester, the Eighties had some great Forties retro and avante guarde New Wave but were overall too gaudy and the Nineties had an overabundance of black. Of course, great pieces were made during all these decades but seemed to be the exception. Just my opinion – you decide.

Thank goodness that modern faux fur and animal skin alternatives have become almost indistinguishable from real ones which, in my opinion, are an abomination. This also includes silk, tortoise shell, horn, coral, pearls and ivory. True vintage pieces made from these materials decades ago are an important part of fashion history and can be fun to collect and wear but I ask my viewers NEVER to support the market for these products by buying modern items made from them. This is how we can block the profit from breeding and slaughtering these wonderful creatures and stop it. If you are looking for clothing and accessories made from any of these, check at a secondhand thrift or antique store. Thank you and stay tuned for that 1940’s series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

START OF A SERIES: TRUE VINTAGE PIECES FOR COOL, DRESSY EVENINGS

We’re now heading into the season for indoor parties, special occasions and events after the long, lovely summer; Cocktail parties, dinners, dances, recitals, holiday galas – you name it. I’ll be starting a series of posts of pretty, dressy and semi-formal garments in my collection from the 1950’s – 1990’s which will take us into the Fall and even Winter. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

UH – OH! CHANCE OF FROST OVERNIGHT. TIME FOR A TRUE VINTAGE WOOL JACKET.

Yes, it’s still September and early for wool but this post-war 1940’s – early 1950’s jacket is perfect for the transition. It’s fairly lightweight and the winter white color can take it through 3 seasons. Almost a blazer, but the fit makes me wonder if it once had a matching skirt. Who knows. I was thrilled to discover it. This beauty can stand alone.

Look at the wonderful tailoring details. A sculpted collar, cuffs and tabs at the hips that are accented with arty buttons (which are all still present!). Full lining in matching rayon(?) fabric. It may even have been custom-made. You just can’t beat the fabulous construction of most garments made during this era. It’s a tiny size that will fit well over a light blouse or even a tank. Easy to dress up or to wear more casually.

My best guess for what the weather is going to be like tomorrow, let alone next week, is up in the air (pun intended). I’ll keep on unpacking what I need, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

I’M PULLING OUT A 1950’s MEN’S AUTUMN BATHROBE FOR THE EQUINOX – CHILLY NIGHTS!

Not fluffy and plush, but a bit warmer with the l-o-n-g sleeves and mid-calf (on me) length. The heavy cotton fabric is good for this in-between weather and I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE the gorgeous medallion prints on true vintage men’s robes and PJs. Also, the cuffed sleeves and big patch pockets. Very useful. I have an even older one with elegant black satin cuffs and collar – very “le smoking”.

So, I’ll be showing more of my warmer true vintage garments as the weather continues to cool and you just never know what else might show up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE WARTIME – MID-CENTURY COSTUME JEWELRY FINDS!

I love this! OK, I forgot my bag of donations but I stopped at the Op Shop (I’m in Canada right now) anyway to look for some Fall turtlenecks and took a few minutes to sift through the piles of jewelry. It’s rare to find true vintage jewelry items now, but I often do so I take a peek and look what I discovered! They’re both paddle back style clip-ons. The top pair are early – mid-1960’s girly flower earrings, which was a common design then. They aren’t really dressy, but the gold-tone and aurora borealis “diamonds” in the centers let them be dressed-up easily as well as being stylish with a more casual outfit. What could be better?

The bottom pair are really precious because they are PERFECT with the pearl and rhinestone bracelet that I found and posted a few weeks ago! Sparkly white rhinestones set in silver-tone metal would probably be from the early to mid-1950’s. They were never high-end but I’d happily wear them to the Opera or any gala (if I went to those things – you just never know). There’s one tiny rhinestone missing, but this would never be noticed and I may have a replacement at Headquarters. We’ll see.

So, the moral of this investigation is that taking the time to look for clues in hidden or unlikely spots is almost always a good idea! My experience has proven that many, many times. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND: TRUE VINTAGE WARTIME – MID – CENTURY JEWELRY

These pieces are very lovely and well-made. I am surprised that neither of them is signed or branded. It’s not often that I come across clues like these when just out and about – usually they wind up in antique stores or at estate sales.

The brooch is heavy and all the rhinestones are present. Its pin mechanism locks securely There is no corrosion on the gold-tone metal and it is quite clean overall. Someone loved this piece and stored it well. Easy to see why. I date it from the 1950’s to the early to mid-1960’s. The style is classic but modern and a bit lyrical, as was often seen in jewelry by Trifari during the same period.

The pearl bracelet is older and originally was at least as nice. There is a simple, box – push clasp which is not found on most precious jewelry with the exception of some very lightweight pieces; But the metal, while not fine, is untarnished and clean and the latch is secure. The bracelet is heavy but this is predominantly from the weight of the champagne-colored pearls, which I believe are genuine (though surely cultured). One is missing on the clasp, but I think I will be able to replace it. The strands are knotted between the gems. There are a few tiny rhinestones on the clasp and the keeper bars. Only one is missing, in a spot where this would never be noticed. Overall, this is also a very good-quality costume piece in a classic style and I would date it from the late 1930’s to the war-time 1940’s possibly to the early 1960’s.

Though fine jewelry is easier to trace, any accessory piece is a good place to start an investigation. I’ll probably keep them in the files for a while. What a coup if that missing pearl should show up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND: MID-CENTURY MEN’S(?) LEATHER KEY CASE ACCESSORY

Practically “new”; just a little corrosion on the metal parts. I couldn’t pass this up since it is an iconic true vintage personal item. This fine accessory is an example of a key case style that had been made for decades and decades, mostly before the 1970’s. Always in leather, and with a simple fold-over design and with these little metal hooks that can hold old-style car keys, house keys, post office box key, storage box key, office key, etc,, etc. I’ve seen many of them, and they’re always a good clue – especially if the keys are still present. . . . . . . . . . . . .

The design is meant to lie flat when the keys are tucked inside, so best for a pocket only. That’s why I have always guessed that it’s mostly a men’s accessory. When other types of more modern and prettier key-rings were not available, though, one of these could tuck securely into a lady’s handbag and they do allow the owner to carry all their important keys in one tidy place. Many of them, like this one, contained a card on which the owner could write their name and address in case the keys were lost. Often, people ignored these and they were still left tucked inside.

It’s another example of the elegant and high-quality items that our ancestors owned and used almost every day. I just never know what might turn up. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

EXCITING “NEW” TRUE VINTAGE HANDBAG FINDS!

Let’s start with a deja’ vu item (for me) – I call it this because I discovered a nearly identical one and posted it just two weeks ago! However, the exciting thing is the different clues involved in their stories. Always SO interesting! Plus, one new item which is a rare find and always makes me do an extra happy dance. . . . . . . .. . . . . ..

Oh, Ho hum you may say. Another black cocktail clutch. Yes, I have many of these in my case archives (and closet), but each one is unique in some way. The fun thing about this one is the similarities to the other one recently found; 1. Both are rectangular and designed to be hand-held. 2. Both are made of black rayon satin. 3. Both have hand-done beading on the front AND back. 4. Both have an additional pocket (or two) inside. 5. Both are from the mid-century, probably post-WWII.

HOWEVER, the one found two weeks ago is more finely made. It was constructed in Hong Kong (while it was still British Hong Kong) while this one above was probably made in North America but is an iconic brand name (Soure’). The first found has more elaborate beading on the front. It is a sac design with no stiffening and simply folds over to close, while this one has stiffening between the layers, probably some form of cardboard, and a metal snap closure (more common and less elegant). These clues lead me to decide that the first find is 10 – 20 years older even though they are so similar. Investigations are so fun! You can check out the previous post and see what I mean.

The final item, just found, is the one that really gives me happy feet – see the little coin purse? I LOVE FINDING THESE!!!!! Not too many of them exist anymore and they are SO convenient and iconic inside a true vintage handbag. This one, also, is navy blue rather than black. It will definitely have a home in one of my purses at Headquarters.

OK, that’s the first of my recent deja’ vu finds, but there is another one which I will put in a separate post because it is in a different category – Men’s true vintage accessories! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM