Category Archives: New Look

TRUE VINTAGE LADIES’ DRESSY AND FORMAL – WEAR FROM THE EARLY 1950’S

From cocktail party to Prom to a wedding, these dresses and separates went to many swanky events. A sparkly bling necklace and earrings were a necessity, too. Stiletto pumps became the hugely big footwear trend for women.

Jacquard “brocade”, satin, lace, metallic thread, organza and netting, cashmere, beads and sequins and even fur trimming – all popular materials in garments for nights out and special events. The prosperity of the Fifties brought on a real break-out in middle-class spending and ostentation. Showy was good but, fortunately, so was elegance so we had some of the most beautiful gowns produced during this time. Female movie stars of this decade were some of the best-dressed women ever seen. The first dress pictured, with the fur-trimmed sleeves, is a gorgeous example of the New Look style. Fun and novelty were also present in many examples of the more casual clothing but the cheap-looking garishness of the 1990’s was not the thing.

I love these clothes and it’s fun to show them. All would have fascinating stories. The elegance of design showed up in dressy daywear, too, and I’ll be showing some of that tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1970’S – 1990’S DOES 1940’S. TRUE VINTAGE RETRO DRESSES AND JUMPSUITS.

The Seventies, Eighties and Nineties produced a lot of popular retail styles that imitated 1940’s designs. Some were very well done and others not so much, to be charitable. As I’ve said, it’s hard for me to call these decades true vintage but, technically, they are. The two purses echoing shapes and tapestry design popular in the Forties might have shown up in the 1960’s.

All of these could be fun and the reproduction details became best during the mid-1980’s but, unfortunately, modern polyester fabrics and production techniques lowered the quality a lot. No valid comparison, in my opinion, to true vintage from the 1940’s – even the home-sewn versions that were made from older clothing during rationing.

Of this group, the best-made is the black velveteen custom-tailored frock from the 1980’s or 1990’s. It was made by an expert seamstress and is worthy of being called a reproduction in the Post-war New Look style. The retail day-dresses are versatile and the prints are great – pretty faithful to authentic ones that I’ve come across. I always love the padded shoulders and cinched waistlines that are very flattering but were also a nod to the style of military uniforms. Jumpsuits were just for fun in the Seventies, but always are inconvenient. I suspect that the jumpsuits worn by women working in the war effort during the Forties had drop seats, which makes it a little bit better. I do have a pair of high-waisted slacks from the ’40’s that have an ingeniously-designed drop seat that looks quite good.

So, these clues were fun to find and seemed worthy of collection though I always prefer the real deal. Speaking of which, I just came across another archived file of true vintage 1940’s dresses which I will show tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage 1950’s to early 1960’s Semi-formal Special Occasion Dress

Powder pink frock for a special occasion. Love the long sleeves with our current weather and I’m happy with the color that doesn’t feel like Winter. It’s not a Prom dress, but could have been worn to any dressy dance party, a recital or . . . . . . . . . . . . . Very demure, but gives a nod to formal wear with a sheer bodice and scooped back. Of course, it has the 3-layer pouf skirt with stiff attached crinoline, acetate/rayon opaque layer and a gauzy synthetic overskirt that was iconic in the Fifties, up to the very early Sixties. Naturally, the stiletto pumps are mandatory.

Despite it’s tiny size, I believe that this frock was sold in the Misses Department (probably size 10) rather than as a Junior size. Just goes to show how our Misses sizes have changed over the decades. A modern size 10 now would hang like a tent on Stella – a 1950’s size 10 is equal to a current size 2. Perplexing, but the clues all fit together. Go figure (no pun intended) and stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS ORIGINAL FORTIES – FIFTIES COTTON HALTER DRESS

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Couldn’t wait for summer!  What a great discovery – an iconic halter frock in luscious cotton.  These sexy and cool dresses are perfect for hot days (and nights).  Move over, Marilyn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A VERY PRETTY TRUE VINTAGE DRESS, HOME-SEWN IN THE 1950’S

A VERY PRETTY TRUE VINTAGE DRESS, HOME-SEWN IN THE 1950'S

Another favorite, the ’50s styles with nipped waists.  Love ’em! – who doesn’t – they’ve remained a fashion favorite for many years and a style that keeps on repeating itself.  The bateau neckline is also a favorite – SO flattering.  I call it a summer dress, but the cotton material is heavy, so it’s perfect to wear almost all year.

The skirt on this one has a bell shape, too – an unusual feature that is somewhat unique.  This dress was custom-tailored and the construction is very unusual. I’ve never seen anything like it.  Although it zips up the back, there is also an inner bodice that hooks together.  It may have been the design of the woman who sewed it – in place of a bra(?)

Sometimes you’ll find a garment like this that is as interesting on the inside as it is on the outside.  The tailoring details can sometimes be elaborate, even on commercially-made items.  Not to mention what seamstresses can come up with on their own when they’re being creative –

I actually bought this at a shop, which is unusual for me.  There are lots of great ones that I have visited and included in my book references – no better place to see a collection of wonderful things in one spot and get the wisdom of the owner’s knowledge.  It pays to know all the different types of places where true vintage likes to hide – because you just never know .. . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

LOVELY COTTON SHIRT-WAIST FROM THE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S

LOVELY COTTON SHIRT-WAIST FROM THE 1950'S - EARLY 1960'S IN FALL COLORS

Here’s another dress from about the same time as the last one.  It has the same features of design – the side metal zipper is the most significant.  I don’t know why that was a favorite feature, rather than allowing the front opening to be longer.

Although it was more trouble to put that side zip in, it was hidden (more or less) from view and allowed the front and back lines of the garment to be unbroken.  My best guess is that this style feature is more elegant than a back zip or long front opening would be.

So many of the styles and tailoring methods from the ’50’s and before paid a lot of attention to keeping the lines of a garment very elegant, with good fit and clean silhouette.  Back zippers on pants and skirts are a good example of this.

This dress is, I’m sure, custom tailored.  The skill of the sewer is excellent and it would challenge the quality of any commercially-made things today, outside of haute couture.

The reds, golds and mossy browns in this print make me think of leading into Fall, but let’s not rush our summertime, when the livin’ is easy . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, the Magicvintagespy
Blog: Magicvintagespy.com
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Book: How to Find the Best in Vintage Fashion available on Amazon.com

TRUE VINTAGE ELEGANT 1950’S HANDBAG

This purse is a great example of the things I love about handbags made in the 1950’s.  The true size is about 10″x 12″x 2″ – not too big, but it can hold a lot and has many interesting features:

Soft fabric finished to mimic suede.

Several inside pockets and a matching satin lining

  • High quality, attractive hardware
  • Two large outside pockets worked into the design so that they are invisible
  • A cute attached coin purse that keeps cash safe and accessible

So many of these older bags are in near-perfect condition, too – many with tissue paper inside.  Owning fine accessory items and caring for them well (even without servants) used to be one of the hallmarks of an elegant lifestyle, and still is . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

PRETTY (AND ALMOST PERFECT!) IN PINK – A MID-CENTURY PILLBOX HAT THAT LUCY, JACKIE AND DIANA WOULD LOVE

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Marlene is mesmerizing in this gorgeous veiled hat.  Just covering the eyes, it adds a bit of mystery to a bright and open face.  She was so inspired by the Spring hue that she even changed her haircolor . . . . . . . . . . . .

I’ve honestly not seen a veil made this way before and am a bit unclear about how it is supposed to be worn. However,  it’s situated in the right direction so maybe this is it. Perhaps it could be worn tipped a little farther back on the head.  Many hats from the Forties had parts hanging over the shoulder in kind of a gypsy touch.

Anyway, it’s beautiful and just right for the season.  When flowers and grass are coming up,  here we go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEW FIND! BEAUTIFUL UNION-MADE DAY DRESS FROM THE 1950’S TO EARLY 1960’S

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The first thing I uncovered on a recent sleuthing adventure!  This dress is made of a glorious glossy fabric which may be a polished cotton.  I just love the finishes put on many of the old textiles that far excel anything that is sold today in the mainstream market.

With cap sleeve styling, wasp waist, full skirt and, of course, excellent tailoring which includes a hem width of several inches, some lucky girl looked stunning.  The ladies garment workers union label testifies to the care and expertise of these tailors half a century ago.

When I spied this one, I could hardly wait to see what else the day’s expedition might uncover.  The treasure hunt continued, and you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM