Category Archives: home-sewn

Another 1940’s Gown, this time in Holiday Red

What beautiful fabric! It is substantial but soft and with tiny machine-embroidered diamond shapes all over, which was apparently a “thing” in some Forties material. This might have been a way of making up for the absence of natural fabrics like silk and many of the notions used to decorate clothing before and after WWII.

The style is very simple and I think, like the dress shown yesterday, that it was custom-made. The pattern wouldn’t have been difficult for a home-based seamstress. The neckline in back is a bit lower, but nothing dramatic. The most difficult aspect of the construction is the piecing below the waist and that’s still no big deal. What I like most about it is that it’s just very pretty and so festive and Christmas-y in that fantastic glossy red. I would have collected it for the yards of gorgeous fabric alone! More of that coming – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage 1940’s Bias – Cut Gown with Beading Decoration

What a wonderful find!! This gown was custom-made, possibly by a home-based seamstress, in this unusual style with 3/4 length sleeves. You can see the waist ties that would be fastened in back to nip the waistline. The bias cut glossy fabric, which gives a really slinky body-con fit is a hold-over from the 1930’s when it was very popular. I love the blue color which looks like a night-time sky and the peekaboo beading that resembles exploding stars. Very appropriate today, when the comet AiATLAS is closest to Earth.

This is another one-of-a-kind, never-to-be-seen-again frock. More to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEW TRUE VINTAGE FIND – HOME-SEWN MID-CENTURY BOHO ETHNIC SKIRT

I always collect true vintage separates – especially those that are fun and unusual. They usually tell a story. This one is in great shape with evidence of being custom-tailored by a home-based “seamster” (probably a woman, but who knows?). One thing I know by an interior-only clue is that s/he probably had a little dog or other small pet. S/he very frugally used seam tape that had been chewed a bit. No problem – it did the job.

It could be part of an ethnic costume or simply one of the Boho styles which were very trendy in some ways between 1955 and 1975. I love the dirndl style and colorful weave, almost like home-loomed fabric. I don’t have any special knowledge about ethnic dress that would allow me to pinpoint more closely. Anyway, it’s flattering and easy-wear. Good for mix and match with a variety of tops for different looks and different weathers.

What else makes this special and very wearable in cooler weather? The colors and medium weight are good for 3-season wear. It’s possible that the material contains wool. Would look great with tights, boots or even some leggings. Separates are a useful way to add variety to a true vintage wardrobe and to dress “vintage” without having a complete outfit. Added to my go-to daily wardrobe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RECENT 1960 FINDS: TWO VERY DIFFERENT EVENING LOOKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.

What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.

My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HEY, MOM – I NEED A HALLOWEEN COSTUME! NO WORRIES FOR OUR 1950’S HOMEMAKER . . .

IMG_0966 IMG_0963     She’d just pull out the latest edition of her McCalls Needlework magazine.  And, of course, there is the Christmas Pageant, too . .. . .

I can’t believe the intricacy of these home-sewing DIY patterns.  Women used to do this all the time!

Once when I was a kid, my (I thought) non-sewing grandmother did  whip up a very convincing 1960’s black collarless jacket for me when I wanted to be a Beatle for Halloween.  Who knew?  . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS FIND! 1940’S OR EARLY 1950’S 2-PC SWEATER DRESS – VA-VA-VOOM!!

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What a wiggle dress this is!  Marilyn Monroe – move over!!  What a rare find – couldn’t believe it when it appeared (no, I fib. Of course I could).  It’s hand-knitted, as was the one given to me several years ago by my friend Rosalie, who had made it herself in 1952.  Likely, many women who were competent needle-workers did so when this style was popular.

This example is made of the same glossy yarn I wrote about several days ago.  My other garments made from it are casual sweaters, so I was floored to find this lovely dress of the same material!  Just perfect for a sophisticated occasion.  I’m keeping it for wearing at just the right vintage venues (local museum events come to mind) or theme cocktail parties, Halloween  . . . . . . . . ..

Anyway, I’ll be having LOTS of fun with it.  That’s what it’s all about!!!  Too much enthusiasm?  Never . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A 1960’S HOME-SEWN SUMMER SCOOTER DRESS

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How cute is this – and, in wonderful condition?!  Nice two-tone probably cotton fabric, with a flippy pleated skirt and button tab decoration at the hip-line.  It was fashioned at home by a seamstress with confidence who made exactly what she wanted, with a perfect fit for her.  It’s a little big on me, but the style makes it super-easy to alter the size.

I can just imagine Ann-Margret in a frock like this one, riding on the back of a scooter in a mid-century movie.  What a treat!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

 

IT’S SO MUCH FUN!! HOME-SEWN DAY DRESSES FROM THE 1960’S

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More custom-tailored stories coming my way – this cute cotton summer frock practically lets me follow the seamstress’s journey as she made this dress for herself.  It’s so fun to think of a girl or woman, way back in the day, going to the fabric store and finding a pattern she loves – picking the material she wants and using her sewing skills learned in Home Ec class and the dreams in her imagination to create a dress that she’ll love to wear.

Wish Stella were here to model it for me, but if you know anything about sewing, all the details of this dress make it crystal clear.  Although I love finding gorgeous designer frocks from the 1940’s, Fifties and before, a simple homemade garment is one of the sweetest surprises. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .  .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A VERY PRETTY TRUE VINTAGE DRESS, HOME-SEWN IN THE 1950’S

A VERY PRETTY TRUE VINTAGE DRESS, HOME-SEWN IN THE 1950'S

Another favorite, the ’50s styles with nipped waists.  Love ’em! – who doesn’t – they’ve remained a fashion favorite for many years and a style that keeps on repeating itself.  The bateau neckline is also a favorite – SO flattering.  I call it a summer dress, but the cotton material is heavy, so it’s perfect to wear almost all year.

The skirt on this one has a bell shape, too – an unusual feature that is somewhat unique.  This dress was custom-tailored and the construction is very unusual. I’ve never seen anything like it.  Although it zips up the back, there is also an inner bodice that hooks together.  It may have been the design of the woman who sewed it – in place of a bra(?)

Sometimes you’ll find a garment like this that is as interesting on the inside as it is on the outside.  The tailoring details can sometimes be elaborate, even on commercially-made items.  Not to mention what seamstresses can come up with on their own when they’re being creative –

I actually bought this at a shop, which is unusual for me.  There are lots of great ones that I have visited and included in my book references – no better place to see a collection of wonderful things in one spot and get the wisdom of the owner’s knowledge.  It pays to know all the different types of places where true vintage likes to hide – because you just never know .. . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A COUPLE OF LATE ’40’S – EARLY ’50’S FUN SHIRTWAIST DRESSES IN SUNNY COLORS

A COUPLE OF LATE '50'S - EARLY '60'S FUN SHIRTWAIST DRESSES IN LEAD-INTO-FALL COLORS

I love the colors of these dresses – pink to lavender, with black and white.  Both in a similar shirtwaist style, below-the-knee length and made of a substantial cotton.  Perfect mid-century design.  Absolutely LOVE the collar shapes!

The dress on the left has little houses in a novelty print and some interesting tuck and piping details.  The fabric is a bit heavier, and I’d wear it into Fall.  The one on the right has cute pockets, ric-rac trim and a great plaid.  It really says “summer” and farmers’ markets, to me.  I took the sleeves off for a more flattering fit for me (and saved them, of course!) and wear it often.

Neither one has a label, but I doubt that they were made at home – especially not the left-hand one.  Just goes to show, that labels often go by the wayside. . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM