Category Archives: home-sewn

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S TRENDS IN DRESSES, HOUSEDRESSES & ACCESSORIES – TO THE START OF MOD

Casual cotton and cotton blend housedresses and model’s coats became really popular as styles started to become less traditional. Some of these dresses would even be seen at the grocery store or for other casual errands in warm weather. The shirtwaist dress was still around, of course, but was starting to take a back seat for everyday. The culotte mini/play-dress was also a new take on the 1940’s/’50’s romper. Casual designs like those shown above were still very well-made, generally, and had cute and pretty prints and tailoring elements.

Dresses with little matching jackets became very popular for everyday wear when a step up the dressy scale was called for – an important appointment, special event or church. The shoes, purses and hats are examples of those which might have been worn with dresses like this. The blue & green example above was home-sewn in the color combo that defined popular design in 1963. The prints on the two blue dresses in center are a harbinger of the MOD trend that was just about to erupt.

Stay tuned for a trip to the mid-1960’s tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE DAY DRESSES THROUGH THE DECADES, HANDBAGS AND SHOES – 1930’s

Two of my favorite 1930’s dresses to wear and one when I feel like Bonnie of Bonnie and Clyde. The fabrics feel so wonderful on the body and the fit is killer because of the fabulous drape. An earlier find, I was thrilled to discover the blue dress because of it’s condition. The original buttons and belt are present and no damage to the trim at the neckline. Also, no stains! You can see that the body of the dress has faded a bit due to years of washing by the original owner (compare to the color of the belt, which would not have been put in the laundry), but I don’t mind. The floral-print yellow and green frock is near-perfect and is a bit more casual. Super easy-breezy. The crocheted dress with satiny rayon slip given to me by a family member who found it in an old antique wardrove is the real star. It still has the authentic celluloid plastic belt buckle. The longer hemline makes it probably the oldest of the group, from the very early ’30’s. I have to include a 1980’s or ’90’s dress that dipped into a retro 1930’s. The yellow rayon belted sheath is a fun fashion with loyalty to the Thirties style and lovely rayon fabric.

These are both mid-priced dresses, at most, but have held up over 70 years before finding their way into my closet. It’s possible they were home-sewn. I love the elbow-length sleeves and the way that the fabric causes the hemline to ripple and sway. Very flattering. Both do require a slip underneath because of the sheerness and, since they are warmer weather frocks, I like to wear a true vintage cotton slip with very little decoration so that it doesn’t show through and compete with the print. Slips of that sort are hard to find since most of the slips that have survived are made of nylon and full of decorative detail. Although some fabrics don’t seem to require a slip, wearing one often causes the dress to fit and move so much better. Your other foundation garments i.e. brassiere, underpants and even stockings will have a real effect on how your outfit looks so it’s an important consideration. I have silk tap pants and some silk slips from the pre-war and WWII era that are good examples of undergarments that work really well with dresses like these.

Mary Jane style shoes are seen in every decade since the 1920’s. Decorated flats became popular for women, too, especially when they began wearing slacks. The shoes shown above may be a little younger than the dresses and purses, but are still within a decade or so. Handbags woven from synthetic yarn were another way that the market for clothing and accessories coped with the economic downturn of the Depression and the looming rationing of wartime. Leather, silk, quality cotton and wool were less available and too expensive for many buyers. The big move forward in the development of synthetics changed clothing in big ways, many having to do with fit, comfort and convenience so, overall, the deprivation turned out to be a plus. Tomorrow we move into the 1940’s. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S CUSTOM-TAILORED 2-PIECE DRESS, COORDINATING JACKET AND HATS!

Here’s another 3-season dress with known history. That’s always SO wonderful. It was passed on to me by the mother of a friend, who made it herself. It is of a lightweight wool, fully lined and beautifully tailored. The lightweight but lined blue and green jacket is a commercially-made piece which I discovered separately, but is a perfect accompaniment in color, style and era.

With this ensemble or with the skirt suit shown yesterday, an early Sixties cellophane hat would also be a perfect accessory. Nothing looks more like Spring to me, and I think we’re more than ready!

A little heads-up: I’ll be having guests over the next month so, though I will try to post daily, the times may be erratic and I may skip a day or two. But, there’s still lots more in the archives, not to mention possible new evidence, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Mid-century Long Formal Dress – Theater Reproduction?

This frock was an unusual find and a bit of a mystery. The sewing notions such as the zipper are from the mid-century but the overall style is undefined. My best guess is that this gown was made for a theater production back in the day. It is not as carefully constructed or designed as garments made for commercial sale or general wear. The only other possibility is that it was made by an inexperienced seamstress. It’s fun to find these kinds of things occasionally, which exercise your sleuthing skills! Back to the “real thing” tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Home for the Mid-Century Holidays: Part 4

Sorry to be so late – trouble with my WordPress account, but so far so good.

Here’s a pretty velvet knit gown from the late 1960’s – early 1970’s which I would say is perfect for at-home, though there is a matching purse! Perfect for Boxing Day, which was yesterday in Great Britain and it’s former colonies. That’s traditionally the day to unbox all the gifts, clean up the mess and relax. This easy-fitting, soft and comfy dress allows for movement. Adds warmth, without being restrictive.

Although it’s very plain, the empire waist and embroidered trim, plus the fabric and zipper allow me to date it. The fact that it was custom-made helps, too. I must give kudos to the seamster who took on the project of creating a matching shoulder bag. That requires some skill and, probably a simple machine to attach the hardware. Cool!

Although it’s Christmas Past now, we’re still in a holiday week and the party spirit will continue in the archived files I will show you in the coming days. It’s so fun to review the clues and data from previous sleuthing investigations! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage early 1950’s Wasp – Waist Party Dress for Holiday Celebration

This RED beauty is pure 1950’s. The skirt is a full circle, or nearly, and could be worn with a crinoline. Love the boat neckline and 3/4 length sleeves. Simple elegance with no decoration – just fabulous fit and style. The fabric is substantial, but not a taffeta. It’s unlined and still allows for lots of movement in the skirt, especially if it is worn as in this photo without stiff undergarments. No label, so it might have been custom-tailored.

Just like Scarlett O’Hara’s entrance to Melanie’s party in Gone With the Wind, show up in this frock and you’d create a scandal. I wonder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage 1940’s – early 1960’s Red Velveteen Party Dress for Christmas Holiday Celebrations

A fun little frock while the parties are still free-wheeling with cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, music and dancing. You could also bring it out again at St. Valentine’s Day. This dress is a pure home-sewn creation made or commissioned by some gal who was definitely in the party spirit and looking forward to a great time. Some clues date the dress as early as the 1940’s, but I suspect it’s not quite that old. That skirt is definitely styled for dancing, though.

The festive holiday clue is the sequin decoration on the bodice, which makes me think more of the 1950’s. No other clues to the details of the stories that it has to tell, but I’m sure we can invent quite a few . . . .. . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another 1940’s Gown, this time in Holiday Red

What beautiful fabric! It is substantial but soft and with tiny machine-embroidered diamond shapes all over, which was apparently a “thing” in some Forties material. This might have been a way of making up for the absence of natural fabrics like silk and many of the notions used to decorate clothing before and after WWII.

The style is very simple and I think, like the dress shown yesterday, that it was custom-made. The pattern wouldn’t have been difficult for a home-based seamstress. The neckline in back is a bit lower, but nothing dramatic. The most difficult aspect of the construction is the piecing below the waist and that’s still no big deal. What I like most about it is that it’s just very pretty and so festive and Christmas-y in that fantastic glossy red. I would have collected it for the yards of gorgeous fabric alone! More of that coming – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage 1940’s Bias – Cut Gown with Beading Decoration

What a wonderful find!! This gown was custom-made, possibly by a home-based seamstress, in this unusual style with 3/4 length sleeves. You can see the waist ties that would be fastened in back to nip the waistline. The bias cut glossy fabric, which gives a really slinky body-con fit is a hold-over from the 1930’s when it was very popular. I love the blue color which looks like a night-time sky and the peekaboo beading that resembles exploding stars. Very appropriate today, when the comet AiATLAS is closest to Earth.

This is another one-of-a-kind, never-to-be-seen-again frock. More to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEW TRUE VINTAGE FIND – HOME-SEWN MID-CENTURY BOHO ETHNIC SKIRT

I always collect true vintage separates – especially those that are fun and unusual. They usually tell a story. This one is in great shape with evidence of being custom-tailored by a home-based “seamster” (probably a woman, but who knows?). One thing I know by an interior-only clue is that s/he probably had a little dog or other small pet. S/he very frugally used seam tape that had been chewed a bit. No problem – it did the job.

It could be part of an ethnic costume or simply one of the Boho styles which were very trendy in some ways between 1955 and 1975. I love the dirndl style and colorful weave, almost like home-loomed fabric. I don’t have any special knowledge about ethnic dress that would allow me to pinpoint more closely. Anyway, it’s flattering and easy-wear. Good for mix and match with a variety of tops for different looks and different weathers.

What else makes this special and very wearable in cooler weather? The colors and medium weight are good for 3-season wear. It’s possible that the material contains wool. Would look great with tights, boots or even some leggings. Separates are a useful way to add variety to a true vintage wardrobe and to dress “vintage” without having a complete outfit. Added to my go-to daily wardrobe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM