Category Archives: Hawaiian

1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY SOUVENIR DRESSES FROM HAWAII

Wow! Our gal’s back home and guess where she went – Honolulu, Hawaii. Looks like she even stayed at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel!! No bargain budget for her, and we can see that in her choice of souvenirs. Two wonderful made-in-Hawaii frocks from the early 1960’s. Remember that blue and green trend from the early ’60’s that I’ve mentioned before? Also, look at the mad, Mod print on the long gown. Fab!

You can’t beat the tailoring on these beautiful dresses. Casual styles, but very elegant. Look at the lining and facings. Fabric piping around the neckline and sleeves of the long gown. Embroidered cloth labels. I’m sure they also have generous hem allowances, finished off professionally. Also, no straw beach hat for this girl – she opted for a cloth hat with unique style and obviously had a wonderful time.

Tomorrow we’ll start reviewing Spring day dresses from the 1930’s through the mid-century, along with some of the accessories that would have been added to their outfits. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER SLEEK AND ELEGANT VINTAGE COCKTAIL PARTY LBD – IN 1970’S ISLAND PATIO STYLE

A not-quite-as-little LBD from the 1970’s with casual vibes. I wasn’t going to show this frock until I got into the Snowbird vacation designs, but it’s such a great comparison to the dressier version from yesterday that it was time. Just as sleek, simple and elegant, but of Hawaiian origin with their wonderful cotton fabric. It’s up to the job in the afternoon as well as the evening.

This dress is a perfect example of functional true vintage wardrobe selection for traveling. One dress can do double or triple duty – from casual to sophisticated, even without accessories.

Semi-formal and Formal season are just starting, so back to those archives again next – stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MY FAVORITE SILK SOUVENIR SCARF – FROM HAWAII, 1950’S

MY FAVORITE SILK SOUVENIR SCARF - FROM HAWAII, 1950'S

The colorful, naive graphics of true vintage souvenir scarves and hankies are SO much fun!!  It’s wonderful to find one in silk, or any high quality vintage fabric like rayon or fine 100% cotton.

The designs are always so cute and bright.  Not a good disguise, though, unless I’m wanting to look like a tourist . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL FLORAL COTTON GOWN – MADE IN HAWAII?????

Isn’t this print gorgeous?  And, the cotton is super, super soft – probably due to age and washings as well as a high-quality fabric.

Another mystery for me!  Can’t date it exactly – there is no label and signs say that it was hand-tailored.  The style is not traditional Hawaiian, but certain details, such as the pleat in the back of the skirt and the fabulous material, make me think of other vintage gowns made there.

No matter.  It’s lovely and tiny but, if I can comfortably wear it it’s a keeper!  We’ll see . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LOVE THIS HAND-TAILORED COTTON GOWN IN A PRETTY PEONY PRINT

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The colors are beautiful and the styling unusual, with a faux train detail back and front – falling from the bodice.  My first impression was that this dress may have been made in Hawaii, but I’m not sure.  There is no label and my impression is that it was made by an individual with tailoring expertise or at a small tailoring shop.

The fabric and construction details say true vintage to me, so I’m going with that.  Such a pretty design – it floats from just above the bust-line, swirling down to the hem, which is cut just a little longer in the back to make the dress fall properly.  This is a detail that is not often (if ever) seen in mainstream patterns that have been cut recently – one of the important styling elements that have gone by the wayside in modern times.  Surely true couture houses still observe them(?).

Anyway, gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous.  Very informal but extremely elegant.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1970’S HAWAIIAN GOWN

IMG_1355 IMG_1354Although I much prefer Hawaiian garb from the 1940’s and 1950’s, I sometimes will pick up things from the ’60’s, and ’70’s, too.  The fabric used was still very nice  and the tailoring often exceptional.

Back then, Hawaiian apparel was almost exclusively made by small concerns who stuck to traditional designs and workmanship.  Also, the quality of cotton and rayon used was excellent.

This dress, though plain in the front, has a sweet detachable half-belt in back and two pleats fall from it like a faux train – a nod to traditional Hawaiian styling.  The skirt, also, is quite wide at the bottom and sweeps when you walk, giving a rather regal feeling . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

1980’S HILO HATTIE HAWAIIAN SHIFT DRESS – I BOUGHT THIS FOR THE PEDIGREE AND THE FABRIC

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Nothing special about this dress, excepting that this maker is a respected label when it comes to more recently-made Hawaiian vintage.  However, the fabric is really nice – a rayon with a good hand, lovely colors and a great print.  Since it’s too big for me, I think I’ll be making some curtains for my bathroom with it!

There are lots of reasons to love true vintage clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

THREE OF MY OLDEST TRUE VINTAGE HAWAIIAN GOWNS

THREE OF MY MOST VINTAGE HAWAIIAN GOWNS

From the 1960’s back to, maybe the 1920’s, these three are my oldest vintage examples of Hawaiian gowns.  From the farthest left, to right –

Psychedelic hues and patterns on the far left – not hard to see the late Sixties here.  The center dress is from the 1950’s and is fashioned in the traditional Hawaiian style, with a panel on the back that is almost like a train, without the dragging hem.

On the far right is a mystery dress with a metal side zipper. It has images in the print that are not your standard Hawaiian shirt variety and the fabric is very different –

instead of being the heavy cotton that I’d usually expect, it is a fluid material that I’d guess is rayon. If the label did not indicate that it was made in Hawaii, I’d say it had come from Japan.  The toggle closure at the neck is also something often seen on Chinese and Japanese garments. It’s also got a very 1930’s cut – close to the body.

Hmmm . . . . . . . . . this is REALLY Mata Hari undercover espionage stuff.  I wonder how she wound her way to the place where I discovered her . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ON THE SUNNY SIDE OF THE STREET – TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S / EARLY 1970’S HAWAIIAN DREAMS

ON THE SUNNY SIDE OF THE STREET - SIXTIES / EARLY SEVENTIES HAWAIIAN DREAMS

Here are two more beauties from Hawaii.  The same fabulous construction and fabric, but slightly more modern art prints.  Don’t you love those colors?  Whenever I find one, I grab it!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM