Category Archives: empire waist

A Lighter Brighter Rosy Red Party Dress from the Kennedy Era Mid-century

This little frock has the hallmarks of being from the Kennedy Era – the 4-5 year period around the transition from the 1950’s to the 1960’s. It still has some of the fussy tailoring of the Fifties, but is simpler. The fabric is heavy, though not true taffeta, and the A-line skirt still has a somewhat stiff underskirt to support the all-important shape. Elbow-length sleeves are great for the season and are a little more informal than sleeveless designs. Could be worn to a cocktail party, though very different from the usual LBD.

The bow detail is iconic of the time and emphasizes an empire waistline, still with the wasp waist fitting. If you look closely at the photo of the back, you can see one of the best styling features, in my opinion. the bow has LONG and WIDE tails that extend to the hemline and add a bit of sophistication and very interesting movement to the design. Again, very demure and tiny but could have been styled for and worn either by an older Teen or by an adult woman. Only a size label or, less likely to be found, a brand label will help answer this question. I’m sure this was an off-the-rack garment, so best guess is you’d be lucky to find, if they haven’t already been removed, a tag with size and/or inventory info and/or a Ladies Garment Worker label. Valuable clues all!

An interesting time for ladies’ dressy garments. So much change happening. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Home for the Mid-Century Holidays: Part 4

Sorry to be so late – trouble with my WordPress account, but so far so good.

Here’s a pretty velvet knit gown from the late 1960’s – early 1970’s which I would say is perfect for at-home, though there is a matching purse! Perfect for Boxing Day, which was yesterday in Great Britain and it’s former colonies. That’s traditionally the day to unbox all the gifts, clean up the mess and relax. This easy-fitting, soft and comfy dress allows for movement. Adds warmth, without being restrictive.

Although it’s very plain, the empire waist and embroidered trim, plus the fabric and zipper allow me to date it. The fact that it was custom-made helps, too. I must give kudos to the seamster who took on the project of creating a matching shoulder bag. That requires some skill and, probably a simple machine to attach the hardware. Cool!

Although it’s Christmas Past now, we’re still in a holiday week and the party spirit will continue in the archived files I will show you in the coming days. It’s so fun to review the clues and data from previous sleuthing investigations! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Sweet 1960’s Formal Frock – White for Winter

In striking black and white, this dress is in a Junior size styled for teenage girls and young women back in the day. Quite modest but sophisticated in textured jacquard fabric with a floor-length empire sash. Formal dresses in the dead of winter often seem to stick mostly with the “Winter” color family of black, white and jewel tones with some metallic thrown in but there’s lots of variety. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S HOLIDAY VELVET DRESSY HANDBAG

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When I discovered this purse, it was the clasp as well as the fabric that hooked me.  I discovered several dark green velvet garments around the same time and you could almost think that that they were made to go together. So, this was a re-purposing & recycling triumph as well as a true vintage score.

Just right with your dressy St. Pat’s party dress.  Doesn’t get better than that . .. . . . . . ..  well, yes, it does, but that will be another story . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

1950’s FUR-TRIMMED GOWN

OK, we’re going from oldest to youngest in these next 3 posts. My apologies for the poor focus. Cropping efforts didn’t come through, either, but you can see all that is necessary for this description. Was astounded a few days ago to find this rare garment! In the past two years 3 or 4 frocks in this early 1950’s style have suddenly come my way; haven’t seen them before that for quite a long time. . . . . . . . . . . .

Like only one of my other examples of this fashion, the gown pictured here was custom-tailored (probably at home) and made for an adolescent girl, from the style indications. Usually, dresses made with the fur-trimmed sleeves, neckline or hem were sophisticated styles made for women. Of course, girls like to wear their own versions of adult designs in every decade.

Aside from the empire styling, rather than a New Look design, one tell-tale clue is the type of fur used. Garments made for women usually had mink trim, whereas the 2 girls’ dresses I’ve discovered have had what looks like rabbit hair. However, the cranberry velvet is plush and I’m sure the young miss who wore it was pleased. It’s so much fun to follow the stories that these old clothing items tell. Stay tuned for a 1960’s item – a repeat of another recent find . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SASSY JUNIORS 1960’S COCKTAIL FROCK FIND – SAME ERA AS YESTERDAY’S, BUT A TOTALLY DIFFERENT VIBE

While I was having a run on ’60’s cocktail LBDs, this one presented herself.  Same chiffon drape detail idea, but very sassy chic instead of tailored and ladylike.  So much fun!

I also love discovering these frocks that were worn once or not at all.  And even the ones that saw many the party are often still in quite beautiful condition, as our grandmothers were not in the habit of trashing their clothing.  You won’t see the next one for a while, though, because she needs a zipper replacement.  A breeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

In the meantime, there’s lots more to show you . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

MY LATEST FIND – 1960’S BLACK CREPE SHEATH DINNER DRESS

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This style is a very elegant, body-skimming sheath design with back zip and a low plunge behind.  Notice the chiffon drape which hangs from the waist, and the simple embroidery on the bodice.

Although the interior size tag reads 8, an attached paper tag dangling from a side-seam give the sizing as 7/8, meaning that this was a Junior size frock rather than Misses, with a youthful cut.  LOVE IT when original sales tags are present and testify to a garment that has never been worn!!

Knee-length to moderate-mini, depending on the wearer’s height, and with a 3″ hem allowance.  Perfect.  Just my size!  Never fails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LATE ’60’S – EARLY ’70’S CALIFORNIA NOUVEAUX HIPPIE DRESS

TRUE VINTAGE LATE '60'S - EARLY '70'S CALIFORNIA NOUVEAUX HIPPIE DRESS

Mod, psychedelic, polyester knit dress – was made just a little past the time of the hey-day of the hippie/back-to-the-land movement.  About the time that popular fashions were beginning to turn back toward mainstream, but still liking the counter-culture vibe in a more modest way.

Prairie-style was also becoming a big thing around this time – leaning more toward Jessica (McLintock) designs than Janice Joplin’s Salvation Army finds.  Also,  polyester was beginning to replace cotton in a big way.

Not quite your pure Love-In roll-a-joint party outfit, but you could still get by with it . . . . . try doing it at a patio party  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A FAVORITE LITTLE TRUE VINTAGE LATE ’60’S – EARLY ’70’S BLACK DRESS

A FAVORITE LITTLE TRUE VINTAGE LATE '60'S - EARLY '70'S BLACK DRESS

This one is SO sweet on!  Hits right above the knee; empire waist with bead trim hanging down, bateau neckline (one of my favorites).

It’s black crepe with an acetate lining and a back zip.  Simple and elegant, and it fits really well.

Who could ask for anything more?  The perfect combination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

CLASSIC SUNDRESS BY HENRI BENDELL

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Here’s the example I promised yesterday – by the iconic Paris designer, Henri Bendel, a summer frock of exceptional fit and construction.  Although this dress may be no more than 8 years old since the company stopped selling clothing in 2009, it’s quality and pedigree made it worth picking up.

I also have a suit by Henri Bendel, made in the 1960’s.  The design and tailoring of his garments are exquisite.  Although this sundress does not look like anything special hanging here, it fits beautifully (my size!) and is very well-made.

If only for the legacy of this classic Parisian designer, I was happy to find it and will wear it with pleasure . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM