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WHILE WE’RE IN THE JEWELRY FILE, IT’S NOT ONLY WOMEN WHO LEAVE IMPORTANT CLUES

How many times has a dropped cuff-link or a tie tack on an end table been the downfall of a careless man? I’ll bet that Perry Mason could go on all night about those cases. Here are a couple of examples which were very important to a well-dressed guy in the 1950’s and early 1960’s. The set on left are fine jewelry; sterling silver set with pearls. On the right, an ensemble by Swank – costume jewelry, but very respectable. Department stores, jewelry stores and some men’s clothiers carried these items.

Like their female counterparts, men’s taste in jewelry (or, at least, the things they wore) were always valuable clues in case of a mystery. Even though his dress might be due to very unconscious choices, the women, families and vendors involved could probably put together the whole story for a diligent investigator. For our purposes, there’s no need for elaborate interviews or forensics to pinpoint the fashion era of these pieces. With a little imagination and a lot of sleuthing know-how, the entire profile of our suspect comes in to focus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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NO MID-CENTURY WOMAN LEFT HOME FOR AN OUTING WITHOUT A LITTLE BLING

Whether it was a trip to town for the weekly shopping, the Women’s Club meeting or a visit to a friend in the hospital, a church service or a weekend in the city, most women’s jewelry boxes would have them covered. A simple, but elegant, pair of silver earrings purchased during that trip to Mexico would be perfect with a cotton shirt-dress or cotton blouse and capris at the grocery store. That simple string of white pearls can go almost anywhere anytime, even though these are costume (just don’t wear them in the shower). The brooch in raspberry tones would go well with a nice dress or on the lapel of your coat and the iridescent blue parure is perfect with a dressy suit. Some other time we’ll have to explore the eveningwear file –

At any rate, a few pieces could be very versatile but still leave sleuths with valuable clues about when, where and by who they were worn. It’s often enough to clinch a case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A PRETTY MID-CENTURY ENSEMBLE FOR WARMER WEATHER

During the vetting process I found two bits of evidence that seem to go together well. The dress is an unfinished project which is no mystery as it was given to me by the mother of a friend, who was an exceptional tailor. She even passed on the original pattern, which could have sleeves or not. The best thing about this design is the interesting pockets. When finished, it would be a very smart day dress.

In which case, only a coordinating hat would do for a late 1950’s – early 1960’s ladies’ ensemble. Just right for a Spring or Summer day in the city.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A MEN’S ICONIC HANDMADE WATCHBAND – POST WWII

Right around the time that the U.S. began to settle again there developed a big interest in the American Southwest. Families began to travel and Southwest fashions had a day. Part of that was handcrafted jewelry made by Native Americans. This example fills the bill with sterling silver metal, set with two natural turquoise gems. At that time Speidel expanding bands were popular and worked great as an insert to this design. Of course, a quality piece had to be signed by the artist.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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AS PROMISED, THE SISTER FROCK TO THE DRESS SHOWN YESTERDAY. POST-WAR 1940’S TAILORED FOR A SOCIALITE.

No ifs, ands or buts about going to a fancy event this time. Also from Montevideo, Uruguay, it belonged to a woman who was or was posing as a member of “society”. This frock has a huge amount of glitzy embellishment both front and back, but what better way to hide in plain sight? Very pretty, and it’s all hand-done. There is a label from “Mae’s” but I still suspect a small tailoring business, unless this was a toney department store that had it’s own tailoring department. The suspect or agent in this case had access to money and obviously had “help” or a very loving and patient partner. Can you imagine any other way to manage all those close-together buttons in back? (Hey, Mae’s, looks like you could have gotten zippers from Argentina instead! See yesterday’s post)

The very 1940’s style details are evident – big shoulders, midi hem length, below-elbow sleeves with shaping detail and that bizarre stuff going on at the hip-line. Unless it’s on the right figure, it’s pretty gruesome but Stella can wear anything. This dress has a very different cut from the one shown yesterday. It may have been made for a different woman but I suspect the measurements have more to do with the style of the dress. The padded shoulders, naturally, are wider but so is the bustline. The hips are narrower. My best guess is that this was done to balance out all the pleating on the hips and keep our heroine from looking bottom-heavy.

It’s a little tired from long-term storage but we know what a good drycleaner’s can do in a jiffy. Stay tuned for stepping into the 1950’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HOW INTRIGUING. A POST-WAR 1940’S COCKTAIL DRESS FROM URUGUAY

This garment came to light during an investigation in that nation’s capitol, Montevideo. It is a very international city and was undoubtedly a hotbed of clandestine affairs during the wartime 1940’s. The cocktail dress pictured above had been commissioned by a woman who was a member of the social elite who routinely had their fashions custom-tailored or traded with shops that offered handmade garments and imported couture. The lack of a label and evident hand-stitching point to a private tailor. Though the crepe is a little rumpled from years of storage, this frock has been well-preserved and is a perfect example of that genre.

I am not sure whether the tailoring differences from what we expect in dresses made in North America are due to historical constraints or to the culture of that country. The extended shoulders, sheer insets, midi-length hem and ubiquitous black rayon fabric are commonly seen in designs of that post-war time but I was a little surprised by the straight, matronly cut. Either the New Look with its nipped waist had not yet landed in high fashion, or this frock was made for a more conservative, older woman.

The same will be seen in a similar dress from that same investigation which will be shown, probably tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A VERY DIFFERENT ACCESSORY FROM THE 1940’S – “EL RITA” PASTEL FEATHER HAT

What could be a better brand name for something this flamboyant? Next time I need a flamingo costume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OK, it IS pretty and definitely tells us that Spring has sprung. The El Rita label has apparently made hats (of various kinds) for many decades, but the elastic chin strap is always a good clue to the early mid-century or before.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A LADIES WAR-TIME EARRINGS AND BROOCH JEWELRY SET FROM 1940

This set reflects very well the resourcefulness of war-time women and their suppliers in the fashion trade. The availability of metals was restricted, if not yet rationed in 1940. Why not use a hardening and preserving process to manufacture beautiful pieces from natural leaves? The brooch might even have a loop behind for hanging on a chain as a necklace, which was often done. Of course, we’ve seen similar jewelry in the commercial market for the past 3 or 4 decades but this must have been a new or rarely-used technique back in the day. Looks like copper was part of the witch’s brew used here.

Just love it when a lady (investigator, victim or witness? . . . . . .) made notes about the evidence which we sleuths can use in the future and kept the original packaging. Perfect clue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . …

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN HISTORICAL CHARM BRACELET FROM THE 1920’S 1930’S 1940’s DEPRESSION – World War ERA

So, when I unpacked this I thought “Oh, a charm bracelet. Those started to become fashionable in the mid-century.” Well, when I looked at it closely it’s no regular charm bracelet. It tells the story of the New Deal and wartime. Those coins are from various European countries, and the United States. Germany, France, Italy and England are represented. Leaving out several players, these are the principal Enemy and western Allies of World Wars 1&2. The little male figures (only men, of course) represent people from different walks of life and levels of society. The Native American, the professor, the businessman, the teamster, the beggar, the Laborer and the Elite. This may represent the New Deal’s aim of leveling the economic playing field across all the population. A great idea. Good luck with that.

Fabulous clue, however. Only a certain type of woman at a certain time and from a certain type of place would wear such a bracelet. Or, perhaps, it was an individual creation worn as an unobtrusive bauble but carrying a coded message . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Uh, oh. I just have to show you this stash of clues . . . . . . . . . .

We’ll leave the Victoriana after today, I promise, but what an intriguing cache of “stuff” I just unpacked! This lot includes souvenirs (Philadelphia Mint 1832, Wiesbaden), charms for good attendance at school or church, a double-sided locket, a little basket carved out of a seed (for a child or in remembrance of a stroll with a sweetheart?), what remains of someone’s mourning pin, the decorative tops of a couple of matching hatpins, a pretty butterfly pin, a couple of clips for pocket or office(?), silver sewing thimbles, a doll’s scissors and, the most mysterious to me, the two items at top right in the first photograph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The ivory die, broken on one side, (which clearly is the one that Uncle Thaddeus used when he lost the poker match and subsequently murdered Ebenezer) – and, better yet, the little ivory Geisha girl charm with a hidden compartment. Perfect for carrying your daily dose of homeopathic globules, as prescribed by the doctor, OR a deadly poison. Can you imagine the value of discovering one of these at the scene of an investigation? Wardrobe accessories and pocket or purse contents are often much more than fashion statements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM