FIRST SNOW OF THE SEASON! TIME FOR MY TRUE VINTAGE WOOL DRESSES

Another chance to love that red. Okay, I give in. I don’t pull out the wool clothing unless it’s necessary and can usually avoid the deep cold because of frequent relocations. But, a little unpacking reminds me how much I love these wiggle dresses from the late 1950’s – early 1960’s. For the jumper on the left (yes, this is what a sleeveless dress worn over a blouse or sweater is called in the United States) I was fortunate to find a turtleneck in the perfect color to coordinate with the tweedy fabric. I love the HUGE pearl buttons down the front – so much a sign of those times, as compared to the thin, easily broken pearl buttons which were popular in the ’90’s.

The wiggle fit is also characteristic of this era; maybe a little warmer, too. Of course, unless there’s a smooth lining, you’d also need a slip underneath which adds another layer of warmth. Attractive tailoring details are always a plus. Although vintage wool garments sometimes feel a little heavy and confining compared to what we’re used to today, the closest similarity I’ve ever come across are the better quality heavy polyester knit dresses and pantsuits of the early 1970’s. Both added warmth, good tailoring and wrinkle-resistance and are welcome when facing true winter weather. Easy storage that doesn’t require protection from moths is great, too, but in the final analysis nothing beats the quality, durability and elegance of well-made true vintage woolens. I thank our furry friends (and the shellfish which create pearl), and am grateful that we now are developing excellent humane and ethical alternatives.

More Xmas red and seasonal true vintage on the way. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Undercover Magic, Essential True Vintage Lingerie

No matter what you’re wearing, lingerie pieces are key to making the outfit look right. Preventing lumps, bumps and see-through are only the simplest issues. The proper undergarment also ensures that the fabric lays correctly on your body and allows it to drape without clinging. Above are a very few examples of beautiful slips and only a tiny fraction of my complete collection.

You can see here how lovely the details are. Typically, even the plainest design will have nice little details and excellent tailoring. More elaborate styles are full of lace, embroidery, ribbons, sheer panels, satin straps and, often, some work done by hand. Though most slips are done in neutral, pastel colors, some (especially from the 1950’s to early 1960’s) were made in fabulous vibrant colors. True vintage nylon has a feel like no modern fabric and is absolutely luxurious. So gorgeous they could often be worn as a lightweight dress or skirt on their own.

Look for vintage lingerie that suits your wardrobe. Notice the details. Slips, of course, are the basis if you wear dresses and skirts. Search for cotton slips as well as the more-common nylon ones. In the summer, you will appreciate the difference! It’s also important to match your undergarments to the clothing worn with it – if anything might show or peek out, whether by accident or on purpose, will the color be OK? How will your outer garment move over the fabric of the slip? How will the fabric of the slip react with your skin in hot weather? Lots of things to consider in order to get the best result.

Also, look for other undergarments – in the 1960’s some split slips were made to be worn under culottes and split skirts. “Slips” to be worn under slacks can even be found from the 1960’s and 1970’s. A 1950’s/1960’s girdle was ALWAYS a base foundation for most women at that time (thank goodness, not now!). If you’re wearing a wiggle dress, you may not have a choice in order to make it look right. Silk tap pants from the Twenties are so comfy and perfect under a lightweight dress in the summer. A camisole under a blouse or top can improve the fit, add some warmth on a cold day and sometimes provide a little neckline interest depending on the style. A “bullet bra” is perfect if you want to be a “sweater girl”. Garter belts and girdles are necessary for wearing stockings. A crinoline is important for most mid-century dress styles with circle skirts, especially from the late 1940’s through the early 1960’s. Some dresses have their own, but others require you to add one.

I’ve probably forgotten to mention something but you get the drift. Lingerie is SO important that I probably should always start any series of posts with it. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S, MADE IN HONG KONG

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950'S - EARLY 1960'S, MADE IN HONG KONG

Here’s a beautiful decorated sweater meant, mostly, for evening wear.  It is fully lined in silk with black beads and spangles decorating front and back.  Many mid-century women had one of these – it was a classic standard.

Made in Hong Kong, the quality is a cut above many garments made elsewhere. This seems to have been the case for many decades.  It’s another one of those iconic garments that is a must-have for any vintage wardrobe and, maybe, more than one since the colors and decorative patterns were varied and unique.

Though high-quality tailoring was particularly true for vintage garments made several decades ago, I still take special note when I find modern clothing that has been made in Hong Kong.  The materials and tailoring are still almost always excellent in garments made there..

There is no wrap more elegant, excepting perhaps a wonderful vintage fur, than a beautifully-made hand-decorated fine wool cardigan thrown over your shoulders. It can be worn in many ways and will never let you down.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEW FIND FOR THE GUYS – 1950’S LAKELAND WISCONSIN SWEATER & SUEDE JACKET!

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I’m over-the-moon with this one!!  Last year I found a wonderful sweater made like this, with soft, fine suede – but this one is a full jacket WITH A ZIP-OUT PILE LINING! – and braided leather buttons.  Just LOVE the quality and style of jackets made between 1940 and 1960.  What a fabulous mid-century vibe.

It was another magic moment for the Magicvintagespy because this coat is in virtually perfect condition.  Just like stepping into a Happy Days episode or going Back to the Future. What fun!  More to come . . . . . . . stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE VICTORIAN/PRAIRIE-STYLE GOWN FROM THE ’60’S

TRUE VINTAGE VICTORIAN/PRAIRIE-STYLE GOWN FROM THE '60'S

Still for cooler weather, but a pretty, peachy color.  It’s hard for me to classify this dress. It’s kind of a hybrid style with an unclear purpose. Part Boho prairie, part Victorian lady, part Prom dress, part hostess gown. Got me!

The prairie-style and long Victorian/Edwardian-style dresses became really popular again in the late Sixties and early Seventies; plus the construction and materials give lots of clues to it’s original era.

Made of a heavy nylon-feeling fabric and has an embroidered makers’ tag. Never seen anything quite like it, but I was intrigued.

Could even be a Spring party dress! Good idea . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:   MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HERE’S THE TRUE VINTAGE SOPHISTICATED SISTER – A LITTLE BLACK DRESS FROM THE 1970’S

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Ditch the mini-length, add a bit of va-voom and some frills et voila! – dinner or cotillion dance-worthy.  Although the comfortable style and flexible double-knit would probably permit it, this is no frock for the bar scene or Stayin’ Alive dance party.

Yes, it was still possible to find garments of quality construction and elegant design in the 1970’s.  Sadly, most of them are gone now because the knit fabrics didn’t make it till today or simply because women had begun to stop taking the care of their clothing which was common in the 1960’s and before.

So much more precious for me to discover two frocks of this type (see yesterday’s post, too).  Both are definitely keepers that I can wear for decades to come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1970’S KNIT DRESSES – SOME OF THE BEST TAILORED CLOTHING FROM THE DISCO ERA

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Although the Seventies were full of schlocky clothing and many less-than-elegant designs, the full decline of everyday fashion hadn’t hit yet.  Here’s an example of a wonderfully-elegant style which was hand-made from one of those beautiful heavy double-knits that became popular in the early – mid decade.

Like the jersey knits of the 1940’s, this material was a real icon of the 1970s and performs very well.  The drape is very good and holds it’s shape.  This office-worthy frock was custom-tailored and is as simple as can be, which makes the design timeless.  The fabric and construction are of high quality.  If you find or still own a similar garment from that era, hang on to it!

A rare find (in my size!) that thrilled me to my toes.  But, we’re not finished yet – I’ll show you her party-going sister tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

I CREATED A VERY COOL VINTAGE SKIRT

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Look what I did to my dress!   You had seen this late 1960’s wool dress before, and I loved the red knit top of it, BUT,  the years had not been kind before it came to me and some moths had had a banquet.  Just couldn’t live with the little holes here and there, and no good way to fix them.

SO – why not snip it off at the waist and fashion a dirndl/pencil skirt instead?  So easy!  All I did was finish (by hand) around the waist with a piece of grosgrain ribbon, sew a few hooks and eyes in the placket left where the zipper used to be et voila’!  Just for extra fun, I threaded a black tie belt through the crochet so that it ties off in back.  Wouldn’t have had to, but it allows me to fit the waist a little more snugly and adds a cute touch.

Brainstorm!  Maybe I can wear it with that neat green sweater found recently – and black boots – must check it out . . . . .. … .. . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SPRING SHOULDER SEASON SIXTIES SKIRT SUIT – TRY SAYING THAT TWICE!

SPRING SHOULDER SEASON SIXTIES SKIRT SUIT - TRY SAYING THAT TWICE!

For Spring or Fall – or any time the temps are in that mid cool-ish range – a lightweight 3-season wool knit skirt suit by Butte Knits.  I LOVE the olive drab color and the flattering fit.

This is one of a few examples I’ve found of mid-60’s suits like this, or similar.  The high-end knits are so comfortable and easy to wear, but ready for just about any setting.  It’s also two separates that can easily be paired with other skirts or pants for a different look.

I think my Aussie friends down under would love a garment like it at this time of year . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

NEW FIND! FUN SLINKY KNIT MOD 1960’s PATIO DAY DRESS BY ALLEGRO

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Came across this one yesterday and it’s the first I’ve had with this kind of T-back neckline.  Time to dig out the specialty bra.

The things I love best about it are the sunny-fun art print and that wonderful heavy, slinky fabric that was available for a few years.  It’s so delicious on the body and drapes so beautifully.  No, it can’t compare to the gorgeous jersey-knit fabrics from the 1940’s but it is identifiable as part of the family.

So, although it’s kind of a poor cousin, it’s also a very fun find.   This is because its pedigree out-ranks the quality of most all the casual poly clothing that has drowned us in the marketplace since the early 1960’s, with the value and workmanship moving farther down the scale every year.  There’s an embroidered cloth tag from a recognized maker, elegant styling and beautiful material – clues that come to light when you snoop carefully. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM