Category Archives: elegant

LATE 1930’S DAY AND DRESSIER FROCK and ACCESSORIES

Too many photos to do both decades together! I’ll spread them out over 2 or 3 days instead. Here are a couple of pretty 1930’s frocks and their accompaniments. First, one that our Depression Era gal might have worn to town. Perfect for shopping and a movie. It’s a lovely crocheted lace over-dress with a matching acetate satin slip underneath. Look at the celluloid belt buckle, also died to match.

The second dress is a rayon sheath with an over-blouse look and Art Deco beaded decoration. She might have worn it to cocktails, dinner and dancing later. Probably, the hemline would have been midi-length on her figure. An acetate slip underneath would have enhanced the fit and it has such unusual decoration on the bodice.

No matter where she was going, she might have carried a chatelaine rouge and powder compact and an antique needlepoint handbag. The clutch above also has a celluloid closure on the metal frame. The pot metal charm bracelet for daytime has European coins and Depression Era male figures dangling – a soldier, a laborer and a tycoon.

Pretty but practical shoes made for walking and dancing – and, of course, she can’t go anywhere without her 1930’s Zippo lighter. She’ll want to visit the smoking lounge during the movie matinee’.

Late Thirties – Forties tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SPECIAL WARTIME AND POST-WAR STYLES FROM THE 1940’S

Classic designs made subtle changes over the decade which reflect the evolution of style and the social and historical events taking place at that time. Party dresses for special occasions have always been a “thing”. Skirt suits from Utility-style in the mid-’40’s to embellished designs were more like couture garments in the Post-war years. A matching hat was always essential.

High-school Prom tradition is about 100 years old now. The popularity of skirt suits for women began about the same time. Since about 2000, traditional styles in both these categories have shifted in major ways, so the focus on these types of garments in my investigations has gone from around 1920 through the 1990’s, with the spotlight on 1930’s – 1980’s. The Forties through the Sixties have been my favorite decades for classic structured suits, as they were more like two-piece dresses before and after and very trendy in design. Good luck finding a true vintage suit or Prom dress from the 1920’s or even the ’30’s but after 1940 the clues are still out there.

Although there were some very nice styles from the 1920’s and 1930’s, the prettiest suits and formal dresses, in my opinion, came from the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. Lots of attention to detail, flattering fit and high quality. In decades after that, frocks were not as interesting and suits were generally more boring, too. Tomorrow I’m going back to late 1930’s – 1940’s for dresses with one or two ’80’s WWII retro styles thrown in. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WEIRD EARLY 1930’S – 1940’S LADIES’ HATS

The late 1930’s, coming out of the Depression, and early 1940’s were very strange times for hats. Little bowlers with chin straps and straw hats looked almost like women had raided their grandfathers’ closets. After that, hats became really odd and sometimes frankly ugly, in my opinion. Later in the Forties some beautiful hats were worn but, let me tell you, the one’s I’ve seen that have survived have generally been pretty strange. I have a photo of a relative in 1940 who wore a hat along with her wedding suit that looked like a battleship sitting across her head.

Above, we have grandpa’s hats, plus a pretty picture hat and an early wartime model that looks like a cross between a tam-o-shanter and a French beret that have been parts of Naval uniforms. I’m not quite sure how it was meant to be worn.

Later versions with veils and flowers or feathers are softer and more stylish – looking more like what we saw in the Post-war late ’40’s and early 1950’s period. In the meantime mid-’40’s came the fedora styles for women, which are my favorite. Very wearable, versatile and almost universally flattering (and perfect for any undercover agent) but not as interesting.

But, all the pre- and post-WWII fashion trends ARE very interesting and I’ll continue to delve into them. Stay tuned for fabulous wartime Utility Suits and post-war skirt suits plus 3 Prom dresses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’s FORMAL DRESSES, PLUS A DRESSY 1930’s CLUTCH PURSE

Beautiful, glossy fabrics – most of them synthetics – and lovely designs. I adore them all, but especially the first one. Let’s look at them one by one.

The first gown has a dark green velvet bodice, trimmed with the same pale green satin fabric that the skirt is made from. So flattering and luxurious. The bright red dress is a more conservative style, but still gorgeous. It’s made of an interesting fabric type which I’ve seen in other 1940’s dresses – it has a satin finish but with tiny black diamonds machine-embroidered all over. I suspect that this fabric, though lovely, was a more economical one.

The blue dress was tailor-made by hand. It is sewn from a bias-cut rayon which gives it that wonderful, drapey fit. The atomic/stellar cut-outs surrounded by seed beads were all done by handwork. I love the cut of the sleeves and the way the bustline and waistline are finished. That back tie belt gives it a really wasp-waist fit.

Finally, the black velvet two-piece dress is an entirely different design. Very proper and buttoned-up in velvet and crocheted lace, with rhinestone-center buttons.

Each of these gowns was a surprising and fabulous find. It’s rare to find 1940’s formal garments in the first place, and to find them in near-perfect condition is almost unheard of. The best bet is if they can be acquired from the original owner, or their estate. This is always a more informative clue when starting any investigation.

I’ve re-opened the 1940’s archives and am finding myself doing a deep dive there. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S DRESSES

As you probably noticed in my last post looking at the 1970’s, I am not very focused on the “modern” styles from that decade because they were not interesting, in my opinion, and generally not of high quality. The same goes for lots of the 1980’s clothing, but I do enjoy some of the New Wave styles and the revival (again!) of 1940’s designs. I don’t have a large archive of New Wave examples because it was a short movement and so trendy that lots of the garments were cheaply-made and didn’t last. However, the Forties revival was a bit more mainstream and produced some dresses, etc., of better quality. The examples above cover this whole spectrum.

The first two frocks are a revival of designs giving a nod to nautical or “sailor” styles. Sailor collars, especially, have shown up on women’s dresses and children’s clothing since the 1800’s and maybe before. Blue and white have been classic color combinations in Spring fashions, too. The first example above with the outsized collar also has 1940’s-style cut, waistline, 3/4 sleeves and midi hemline. It’s a less expensive dress, very trendy and not true navy blue in color. By contrast, the second dress is true to military style with it’s embossed metal buttons, true navy blue and white colors and prominent stripes. The rest of it’s style is more New Wave, with a midriff top and geometric cut. It’s much more elegant and well-made. We saw a LOT of mid-priced floral print midi skirts and shirtwaist dresses, which were very good flashbacks to 1940’s everyday styles. Finally, I do love this brown print rayon dress by a trendy mid-priced designer (forgot her name). It’s a late ’30’s – early ’40’s design with great fabric drape. I also love this halter style floral midi – Very mid – ’40’s!

I rarely cover anything from the high fashion or couture world since my investigations don’t typically take place where those clues are likely to be found, though exceptions to the rule always exist. Tomorrow I’m going back to my primary focus on dresses and accessories actually made before 1970. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’s DRESSES IN THE MAD, MOD WORLD

Flower-power mini-dresses, traffic light neon colors, military-styling, psychedelic prints! These trends all appeared during the middle years of the 1960’s. Cotton is out – all these dresses are made from some form of synthetic fabric. So different from the previous decades, even though some of the classic details still crop up and garments are still well-made. See the Peter Pan collar on dress #1? The contrasting edging on the yellow sheath? Nehru collar (both military and Asian) and metal hardware on the stop sign red dress? Swirly hallucinogenic op-art on a classic shirtdress style? Perfect reflections of social culture, which was morphing yearly between Peace & Love, End the Vietnam War, Sex, Drugs & Heavy Metal rock n’ roll. In spite of all that, look at the tailoring!!

Pretty lingerie slips were still called for with these fitted frocks but the longer lengths were no longer suitable. Knee-length, at the longest, and mini-length became available. Wonderful nylon that tolerates hot water and can be dyed even allowed some creative girl to do a tie-dye.

Tomorrow we’ll take a stroll in some late 1960’s dresses and visit Carnaby Street. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

DETOUR! 1950’S DRESSIER FROCKS BEFORE WE MOVE TO THE SIXTIES

I just couldn’t head into the 1960’s without a display of some of the prettiest dressy frocks from the 1950’s and the fabulous nylon lingerie slips that might have been worn underneath. The first two pictured also have interesting remodeling stories.

First is a beautiful, heavy polished cotton dress from the early 1950’s or, perhaps, the late 1940’s. It is absolutely gorgeous and falls to tea length. Polished cotton was a favorite fabric during the mid-century, before 1965 or so. As often happens, this frock had lost it’s belt somewhere along the way so I took some fabric from the generous hem and covered a skinny one by hand.

The mocha dress with the interesting shoulder line was a more ambitious remodel but still done entirely by hand. This wonderful wiggle dress is made of rayon fabric which looks like silk shantung. It originally had an upper bodice made of sheer fabric with cap sleeves. Piping finished the sleeves and round neckline. This design feature was such a popular one in the late ’40’s and early ’50’s but, alas, the sheer fabric had several holes that didn’t have a mending or patching option that I thought would do justice to the style. So, I chose to remove the upper bodice and secure the cut edges underneath. The back zipper didn’t have to be changed because it ended where a keyhole opening used to be at the back. I am very happy with the result, though I hate to change original designs.

The RED party frock is a style that endured at least from the mid-1940’s until the early 1960’s. It’s a rayon fabric with midi hemline, 3/4 sleeves and a boat neckline – all of which I love. You can see how deep the hem is and, of course, the bodice and skirt are fully lined.

Finally, the red jacquard cheongsam-style sheath is a fashion that became quite popular in the Fifties and Sixties, probably a carry-over from WWII when Asian culture became better known in the West and the female spy, Mata Hari, became legend. It carries on the wiggle cut and cap sleeves which were common then. Overall, this was a decade of very flattering and well-made ladies’ garments.

We finish off with a photo of luxurious nylon slips from the 1950’s, with their fabulous fabric and pretty decoration in some of the luscious colors that were available. We WILL do 1960’s dresses tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S DRESSES FOR EVERYDAY

Wasp waists, circle skirts and cap sleeves – 3 style features which are predominant on 1950’s frocks, though many other elements of design appear. The tiny waistline is probably the most frequently seen feature of a Fifties dress. As popular as the synthetic fabrics had become, 100% cotton material was queen of everyday dresses and especially for plaids and stripes which could be woven right into the cloth. Prints were still very evident, such as the blue and aqua shirtdress above, with a cute Paris, France motif (special to me because it belonged to a family member). A variation of the open-toe, low-heel sandal shown yesterday would have gone very well with these dresses, too. Colorful dresses called for fun and affordable costume jewelry, which abounded in the ’50’s. Made from pot metal, glass and plastic, every gal could afford a little bling with every outfit. Natural materials were sometimes used, too. Our mid-century gal who returned from Hawaii a few days ago, might have brought home a pair of souvenir earrings made from seeds and shells.

Decorative detailing was still a big deal, whether the dress was a day dress or something more special. Ric rac and embroidery were everywhere. The intricate cut-out design and lacing on the neckline above, though probably done by machine, is a very pretty touch on a flirty frock. Fabric-covered belts were the most common way of cinching a waistline.

Sticking with casual dresses, we’ll head into the early 1960’s tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

6 PRETTY TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSES WITH ’80’S DOES ’40’S WEDGE-HEEL SANDALS

A knee-length synthetic (probably acetate blend) coral red frock from the early 1940’s has augmented shoulders, a straight cut and a fabric-covered belt with some glass beads to dress it up. In the post-war Forties, hemlines were able to come down again and skirts became fuller. The knee-length wartime styles were able to resume their previous midi-length luxury. Rayons and polyester synthetics continued their popularity because of their availability, lovely drape and acceptance of color dyes. During the early recovery from the war, some natural fabrics and detail items were still not fully stocked in dressmaking supplies.

The ever-popular shirtwaist style has never left the fashion scene but became more modern, with atomic prints, and more sophisticated design in the later ’40’s after women had stepped into more visible roles in society with their wartime efforts. When the majority of the trauma and restrictions were finally past, this tea-length floral frock is an example of a more relaxed, aristocratic style as the culture looked forward to the more prosperous 1950’s.

With day-dresses to slacks, I love wedgie sandals and these Eighties does Forties versions did not disappoint me. Their sleek leather sling-back style goes well with almost everything and the 2″ heel gives lift along with walkability. This design carried on into the 1950’s and would look great with the dresses I’ll post tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY SOUVENIR DRESSES FROM HAWAII

Wow! Our gal’s back home and guess where she went – Honolulu, Hawaii. Looks like she even stayed at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel!! No bargain budget for her, and we can see that in her choice of souvenirs. Two wonderful made-in-Hawaii frocks from the early 1960’s. Remember that blue and green trend from the early ’60’s that I’ve mentioned before? Also, look at the mad, Mod print on the long gown. Fab!

You can’t beat the tailoring on these beautiful dresses. Casual styles, but very elegant. Look at the lining and facings. Fabric piping around the neckline and sleeves of the long gown. Embroidered cloth labels. I’m sure they also have generous hem allowances, finished off professionally. Also, no straw beach hat for this girl – she opted for a cloth hat with unique style and obviously had a wonderful time.

Tomorrow we’ll start reviewing Spring day dresses from the 1930’s through the mid-century, along with some of the accessories that would have been added to their outfits. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM