ONE LAST MID-CENTURY LBD . . . . . . . . . SUPER SIMPLE, SUPER ELEGANT

Here’s a perfect example of a case where your undergarments are going to be really important. This unusual cocktail sheath is so gorgeous because of the cut and the fit. Nothing fancy, nothing fussy – just pure elegance.

Imagine how it would be ruined by straps showing, panty lines or cling. This dress looks perfect only when it fits flawlessly and glides freely over the body. You’d need a smooth undergarment which allows that to happen – skimming the body with enough substance to soften any lines but whisper soft and sleek in order to be invisible. Happy sleuthing for just the right one . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A Gallery of True Vintage Lingerie Slips

Here’s a sampling of my dozens of beautiful lingerie slips from several eras. True vintage lingerie is essential to wearing your dresses, blouses and skirts with their best fit and comfort. Slips can be fine cotton, rayon, silk, acetate or nylon. Designs can be highly decorated or very sleek and plain. It pays to have every type you can find in different lengths and colors. Some are so gorgeous they can be worn alone as “slip dresses”.

Matching your undergarments to your dresses in a way that minimizes binding, getting too hot or having some unsightly see-through makes all the difference in the final presentation of your outfits and your enjoyment of wearing them. Usually, you’re the only one who knows how truly beautiful your full or half-slip really is. Sometimes it’s fun to allow just a corner of lace trim to show beneath a hemline or at a neckline. In other words, have fun. Have a beautiful Thanksgiving holiday and stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SNUGGLEY TRUE VINTAGE SLEEPWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR 1950’S – 1970’S

Everybody seems to love red, especially this time of year. It’s certainly a color which can make us feel warmer, which is what we’re beginning to need in a big way now. On the left is a favorite 1950’s pajama set of mine, woven 100% cotton with little fans printed all over. The print would make you think that these must be women’s PJ’s but actually these are a large size boys’! Take a look at the direction of the button closure.

Although I have lots of women’s PJ’s and gowns, my men’s pajamas from the 1940’s and 1950’s are really special. Classic unisex PJ style (though, often, men’s have a fly), but the best feature is that the men’s garments are very sometimes printed with wonderful medallion prints or novelty prints like the one above. A large (16 – 18) vintage boys’ size will fit me well – I wear a ladies 4. A men’s small will usually do OK or can be easily altered. Women’s PJ’s are most often of a solid color nylon or silk or a fine cotton printed with small flowers, decorated with lace or other trim. Really beautiful and comfy, but sometimes a little boring.

However, true warmth comes from robes, and this is where the women’s garments shine. They are more often found in warm fabrics such as plush, chenille and quilting. Women traditionally spent more time at home than men did so ladies’ true vintage robes and dressing gowns are built to be worn for several hours, rather than just after getting out of the bath or shower. Although men’s vintage robes sometimes have nice prints, women’s are more often embellished with embroidery, trim and buttons. Each decade had it’s typical style and popular fabric but the general rules seem to apply to sleepwear and robes from all the decades from the late 1800’s to the present day.

My 1970’s robe above is certainly worthy of Mrs. Claus as she makes breakfast for the elves. (Sorry, but traditional folklore and myths tend to be very sexist.) It’s by Vanity Fair, a company which has made women’s at-home styles and lingerie for decades. I love the pretty style, but the long bell sleeves are very impractical in the kitchen and I don’t think the mid-priced market for this item targeted women who had hired “help” at home. That can be an inherent problem with true vintage fashions – occasionally they are poorly suited to an average lifestyle and can even be uncomfortable at times but that’s a minor consideration and not worth a mention as long as you are in the know. Wouldn’t stop me gathering the evidence for a second. When did practicality ever have anything to do with fashion and style, especially when a holiday or other special occasions are on the horizon? Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Undercover Magic, Essential True Vintage Lingerie

No matter what you’re wearing, lingerie pieces are key to making the outfit look right. Preventing lumps, bumps and see-through are only the simplest issues. The proper undergarment also ensures that the fabric lays correctly on your body and allows it to drape without clinging. Above are a very few examples of beautiful slips and only a tiny fraction of my complete collection.

You can see here how lovely the details are. Typically, even the plainest design will have nice little details and excellent tailoring. More elaborate styles are full of lace, embroidery, ribbons, sheer panels, satin straps and, often, some work done by hand. Though most slips are done in neutral, pastel colors, some (especially from the 1950’s to early 1960’s) were made in fabulous vibrant colors. True vintage nylon has a feel like no modern fabric and is absolutely luxurious. So gorgeous they could often be worn as a lightweight dress or skirt on their own.

Look for vintage lingerie that suits your wardrobe. Notice the details. Slips, of course, are the basis if you wear dresses and skirts. Search for cotton slips as well as the more-common nylon ones. In the summer, you will appreciate the difference! It’s also important to match your undergarments to the clothing worn with it – if anything might show or peek out, whether by accident or on purpose, will the color be OK? How will your outer garment move over the fabric of the slip? How will the fabric of the slip react with your skin in hot weather? Lots of things to consider in order to get the best result.

Also, look for other undergarments – in the 1960’s some split slips were made to be worn under culottes and split skirts. “Slips” to be worn under slacks can even be found from the 1960’s and 1970’s. A 1950’s/1960’s girdle was ALWAYS a base foundation for most women at that time (thank goodness, not now!). If you’re wearing a wiggle dress, you may not have a choice in order to make it look right. Silk tap pants from the Twenties are so comfy and perfect under a lightweight dress in the summer. A camisole under a blouse or top can improve the fit, add some warmth on a cold day and sometimes provide a little neckline interest depending on the style. A “bullet bra” is perfect if you want to be a “sweater girl”. Garter belts and girdles are necessary for wearing stockings. A crinoline is important for most mid-century dress styles with circle skirts, especially from the late 1940’s through the early 1960’s. Some dresses have their own, but others require you to add one.

I’ve probably forgotten to mention something but you get the drift. Lingerie is SO important that I probably should always start any series of posts with it. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RECENT 1960 FINDS: TWO VERY DIFFERENT EVENING LOOKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.

What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.

My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE SUMMER – A SAUCY LITTLE FIFTIES DRESS (AND THE LINGERIE SLIP I WEAR WITH IT!)

A SAUCY LITTLE FIFTIES DRESS (AND THE LINGERIE SLIP I WEAR!)

I just love this dress, with the big bow and button in front.  The colors are so sunny and really stand out!

It’s made of a heavy cotton that doesn’t show through, but I like to wear a comfy nylon slip underneath and this lovely orange one from the 1950’s just fits the bill.  I really like wearing lingerie that matches my outfit and the Fifties were famous for their bright undergarment colors (especially in slips).

With a fabric-covered belt it fits nicely and looks cute as well as lady-like. Just depends on which way you want to go . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

A GLIMPSE OF TRUE VINTAGE LINGERIE – OOH!

A GLIMPSE OF TRUE VINTAGE LINGERIE - OOH!

So, under all these sheer dresses . . . . . . . . . This is a pretty tame but VERY practical full slip, made of cotton batiste for wearing under summer clothing in hot weather.  There don’t seem to be many of these around anymore, and usually they are not as nicely embellished as this one.

But, just look at that ruching and lace.  It’s lovely, sweet and would be so cool.  Now, women might wear THIS as a summer dress alone!  There’s also a deep ruffle at the hem.

The length gives it away as a 1940’s to early 1950’s style.  Possibly even 1930’s.  Because of the label, I’m going to go with the ’50’s.

Of course, on really hot days it’s nice not to be wearing more than one layer.  But, if you’ve got a pretty, sheer dress on in the bright sun, well, it’s up to you but I’ll wear the slip.

Cotton, naturally, is better than nylon (can you imagine!?) when it’s 95 degrees in the shade.  I’m certainly glad to have found one that’s so pretty, just in case . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

WE’RE GEARING UP FOR ST. PATRICK’S DAY – START WITH TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S & 1950’S LINGERIE

WE'RE GEARING UP FOR ST. PATRICK'S DAY - START WITH 1940'S & 1950'S LINGERIE

Believe it or not, I do not have a single GREEN slip that would be suitable for my St. Paddy’s Day dresses! Two green rayon beauties in my closet from the 1930’s are way too long and full . . . . . . .

So, here are some blue-green pretties from the Forties & Fifties that might suit. If they’re not showing through, I don’t think any one would really mind, do you?  Once the dress is off . . . . . . . . . . .

Again, we have beautiful fabric, contrasting embroidery and some applique’. Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous. . . .. . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

BEAUTIFUL MID-CENTURY SHERBET GREEN LINGERIE SLIP

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Woops, I DID find a green one!  It will look best on Stella, but you can see the beautiful detail here, as well.  I know, I know, I know – I’ve collected so many gorgeous true vintage slips during my escapades, but  just can’t help myself!  When this wonderful Spring color and pretty lace showed up, that was it – cannot resist the pastel colors from the 1950’s and early 1960’s.

Beautifully-made by Vassarette.  What more can I say?  It’s undoubtedly a little bit different from other similar ones I own and will go perfectly with some particular dress – maybe for St. Patrick’s Day . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FAB DISCOVERY – A 1960’S BABY DOLL NEGLIGEE’ & PANTS

IMG_3908

A rockabilly Bye-Bye-Birdie Playboy hot weather classic – the short short baby doll nightie.  Just right for after the St. P’s party. I’ve come across a few of these during my investigations, but rarely with the original panties!  The green is more or less unusual, too, and goes perfectly with Stella’s new auburn hairdo.

Although “baby doll” nighties started out in the 1940’s when many fashion hemlines skyrocketed because of the shortage of fabrics, the earlier ones did not tend to be as short as they became during the Kennedy era.  Many 1950’s babydoll nightgowns were just above the knee – shorter than the skirt and dress hemlines popular then, but hardly short by today’s standards.

As always, though, it has pretty lace and ruffle trim and has held up like crazy over more than 50 years!  It’s always new for the Magicvintagespy – I wonder what will be next . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM